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Isolated Buttress

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 3
3

Description

Hard to find. The buttress is situation ear the top of the major gully to the slabs, downstream of Nettle Buttress. It is best approached from the right side of the broad ridge on the gorge rim on the way to 'Nettle Buttress'. The climbs are listed right to left and some are marked.

Access issues inherited from Western Gara Gorge

Access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets involves driving through private property to reach the Gara Gorge. Contact must be made with the landowners prior to heading out there:

Mike Coffey (Kenwood Park): 02 6775 3766

Pete and Susanne or Jeff Moore: 02 6775 3727

It is important to let the Coffeys know you’re coming (as access is very close to their house), and ask the Moores for permission to cross their land (providing the most efficient access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets).

Good relations with these landowners are essential for New England climbers, and all visitors in the future, to access these excellent crags, so please treat them with respect. Leave all gates as you find them, cross fences at the strongest strainer post, etc etc. Access is likely to be refused if tenants are in the Moores’ ‘holiday’ house, so please be patient or better still ask about staying there yourself.

This is a link to a file you can use in Google Earth to see a map to The Dome Wall Parking area:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/24251869/Dome%20Wall%20Etc%20Access.kmz

Approach

The climbs are described from right to left.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Originally done with two aid rests, these were eliminated on the second ascent by N. Colyvan & B. Birchall on 7/8/81.

Start: The thin crack 1Dm right of ‘Adamant’.

Straight up the crack.

The thin crack 10m of Adamant. Straight up the crack, crux moves at half height.

FA: Al Stephens & R. Clark, 1980

FA: Al Stephens & Rob Clark, 1980

Up the fierce looking crack on the main face with a ledge at half height.

The crack on the main face. Up the fierce looking crack with a ledge at half height.

Forever jerking off mank.

Start: A leftward trending diagonal crack, 10m left of ‘Adamant’.

Up diagonal, traverse left past tree to large ledge. Pull up through vines over crack onto large flake. Up slabs to tree, directly up right of offwidth to blocks.

Forever jerking off mank. A leftward trending diagonal crack, 10m left of 'Adamant'. Up diagonal, traverse left past tree to large ledge. Pull up through vines over crack to large flake. Up slabs to tree, directly up right of off-width to blocks.

FA: John Lattanzio & G. Pritchard, 1979

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Fri 2 Jun
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