Routes in Buandik Area for selected grade

From the jug rail of 'Lovely', head up and right to the finish of 'Back, Sack & Crack'

Right on the junction of the main path and the track to Simplicity / Cridular.

Start as for 'Half Baked' but head slightly left and up; be aware of the large gum behind you.

Couple of fun moves up into PC and as high as you’re happy with.

Well bolted warm-up for The Gallery. RBs up right side of main bolted wall. Slabby start, pumpy end finishing up right to anchors. Below average height climbers won't be able to reach the second bolt while standing on the ledge and will need trad, stick clip or risk a ground fall.

‘Turtle-shell’ wall climbing. A very runout sport route or a very safe ‘mixed’ climb. Starts 5 metres left of Split Decision. Up easy slab to horizontal. Balance up seam (UB) and then blast up jugs to stance. Take the right bolted line past a further three UBs to top. A limited selection of large wires and medium cams can supplement the bolts. Rap from anchor on ledge above Split Decision.

Start just right of Manufacturing Consent. A solid move gains the diagonal then climb the arete for 3 metres. Step right and pull into crack to continue up wall, joining Manufacturing Consent near the top.

On to wall 3 metres right of Bucketing Compost and at left side of small cave. Left from horizontal break then straight up, moving a little right to finish.

Up and across narrow wall to left arete of chimney on back of block. Round onto main face. Up.

Very fine, sustained bridging. This the left of two big corners on the cliff. Very fine, sustained bridging. This the left of two big corners on the cliff. Up beautiful acute corner. A few metres of easy climbing then step right into smooth corner leading to roof. Traverse left at the roof to a big ledge below a large roof. Descend down gully to left.

The big corner 20 metres right of Duelling Imams. Stem past cleft to easy ground which leads to corner. Corner to roof, traverse left into a crack and follow this to big ledge.

Maybe a bit contrived but still damn good fun. You'd be forgiven for thinking the route was named after the striking unusual kidney shaped plate of rock it follows. But by some bizarre and unfortunate coincidence, Bob happened to pass some actual kidney stones while sending it! Stretched urethra anyone? Ouccchhh!

Start R of the cave.

Up to the lip then traverse L along the lip. Impressively pumpy for the grade! At one point you might take a nasty pendulum if you come off - this has resulted in at least one dislocated kneecap.

2nd bolt added to anchor 2017

Start: Start at the cute little orange face tucked away on a boulder just right of the walking track, approx 40m before you hit the 'Five Spice' cave.

The left end of the slab on thin holds with virtually no protection.

Another Buandik gem.

Start at the head of the next chasm.

Chimney up to gain elegant flake corner/crack. Descend via the exposed, juggy terrace to the west.

Scramble up to the descent gully.

Excellent climbing up the nose at the gully intersection.

Steps right from chain and follows thin crack heading slightly right to finish up juggy headwall to DRB above top bulge. 70m rope is ample to do this in 1 pitch from the ground, a 60m might even reach.

One of the better warm-ups at the crag. Starts 20m right of RRH just right of ugly black groove. Step across vast chasm onto wall (FH) and up right side of groove on big jugs past two more FHs and then easy juggy crack finish. Rap anchor

On the east side of a massive mushroom shaped boulder. The problem climbs a rib in a ceiling on dark orange rock. Crux at the end!

Located in the small gully that can only be entered by tightroping across the hanging logs, about 20m right of Wrapped In Pain. No route description was written up - but can presume it climbs the east face somewhere on small gear.

The right crack. Stick place the first wire(easy to do), step across the gap, then blast up the crack pumping out placing gear. At small roof head up and left. Abseil off fixed sling above Walking the Void.

Pretty stiff at the guidebook grade of V1