Routes in North Grampians for selected grade

This is the prominent corner 30m right of Sweet Sue. Bridge up the corner to the top, go up the chimney, and then climb the right-hand line to finish.

This is the corner 8m right of Bridget.

The name is much more interesting than the climb.

The fourth corner.

L of two lines 10m R of 'Voyage Of Discovery'. Up the narrow groove to an open smooth groove.

Undistinguished and not well protected.

Start: Start in middle of slab.

Lovely corner that's harder than it looks.

Start: The corner on the L side of the slab.

An easy classic. The finishing chimney is desperate and the grade is given for the easier alternative.

Start: Start below the easy corner 20m L of 'Petite Fleur'.

1. 10m (10) Up to the corner and up to terrace.

2. 40m (10) Up to the next ledge, up the steep rock and into the chimney on the R and up to belay at the top of the chimney.

3. 11m (10) Traverse R onto a long ledge, delicate at first with some doubtful rock.

4. 21m (10) Climb the crack/chimney running off R end of ledge or climb face L of chimney(much easier).

5. 30m (-) Easily up.

You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang.

1. 37m (11 M4) Follow bolts and the odd other piece to lip of roof. Continue up line until able to free to a ledge.

2. 24m (11 M4) Move L of the line, up the overhanging crack and up to the top.

One of the best easy routes in the entire 'Grampians'. 'Fantastic' pro and steep buckety climbing.

Start: Start 5m L of TC, at the base of the chimney.

The arete

Another relatively neglected line which looks very worthwhile. A star has been added to entice the crowds over from 'Back Wall'.

Start: Start just L of 'Handles'.

The line of choss L of RE.

The flake 2m right of Heartbeat. Finish up that climb.

4m right of Changing Boots. Up over bulge, continue to top over slab.

3m right of Ronnie etc. Up with a poorly protected start.

3m right of Bastille, marked with a small painted square. Up to and up the steep wide juggy crack.

Very faintly initialled thin crack. Climb about 3/4 of the way up then veer left to top. This face is steep, has suspect small holds and little obvious gear. It looks much harder than grade 11.

Delicate slabbing and one of the best long beginner routes in the area. A slight variant of this route was claimed as Swiss Cheese 47m 14 by Richard Morris in 1986.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Layback' And Think at left end of slabby wall.

1. 16m (13) Up the thin slab (crux with marginal gear) moving left towards the arete. Pass the left side of small tree via thin right leading crack to belay below a slight bulge. You can link this pitch with the 2nd pitch on a 60m rope for a good long adventure.

2. 40m (10) Follow the left leading juggy crack for 10m, up the wall above for another 10m passing a wide crack then straight through the small overhang to large belay ledge with bollards galore.

3. 30m (7) Follow your nose up easy jugs to the top. This pitch is pretty crappy. Best to just bail off left or find the rap slings and descend.

M2 11. A silly climb. Climb the corner immediatly right of 'Clicke Crack' to the roof, aid left to the arete and finish up 'Clicke Crack'.

Start: Starts just right of the obvious splitter 'Clicke Crack'.

Steeper and meatier than appearances suggest. Start at the pine tree near the base of 'Attila'. Up onto boulder, step onto wall then diagonally right up ramp for 3-4m to prominent steep juggy wall. Straight up wall veering gradually right to finish centrally.

Not exactly 'Thunder Crack'.

Start: Starts as for 'Stiff Opposition'.

Direct line up juggy gritty slab. Starts 6m right of 'Bad Moon Rising' below light grey streak which ends at same finish as BMR. Up left side of grey streak to delightful short right facing thin flake at 1/3 height. Continue up on jugs to top.

Distinctive crack aided through bulges.

Easy slab left of mossy corner (Kabana direct) then back into line.

Esay line 5 metres left of 1st pitch to base of shallow corner.

Takes in some wonderful airy positions. The first pitch is excellent and the second and third pitches, though not in the same class, aren't bad.

Start: Starts in a little bay in the middle of the wall (initialled).

1. 40m (11) Climb straight up the buttress, the angle easing with height. Belay level with a rightward leading horizontal traverse.

2. 45m (10) Traverse 6m right to a delectable crack which leads up to the overhang. Continue up the line, into and up a small chimney.

3. 15m (-) The chimney to the top.

10m right of a large flake leaning against the slabby face.

1. 45m Climb up an easy slab until it’s possible to belay under the first overlap.

2. 20m Climb up the break above and then go left through the second overlap. Head left and up to below a small overhang for the belay.

3. 25m Go back down a little then left to the end of a long ledge to belay.

4. 30m Head leftward to reach the other end of the ledge.

5. 35m Go left to the bottom of a large chimney and climb it to finish below a very large chockstone.

NRNR is possibly AA because it has the same length & grade and is listed after LL in the Chockstone guide.

Start 25m R of the LH end of the cliff just to the right of the first large orange overhang. Start at the LH end of the scoop. Up diagonally Right through the scoop and across black wall to RH prow. Up.

1m R of RHTC. Up into R leading line, pleasant balancy climbing up this.

The easy angled arête R of Damascus. Step R below the tree and up the face above between the 2 seams to a ledge. Finish up rib R of wide crack/gully.

R arete of slabs to trees. 2 glue in carrots. Traverse L to JJ DBB to descend [or scramble down the awful gully to the R].

The chimney on the R of the Blackbeard buttress.

80m R of V8s is a black slab. Left of this is an obvious large orange roof, start down below this at a crack a few metres L of a corner coming down from the R side of the roof. The traverse under the roof is excellent

1. 45m 11. Jam the crack then up to the roof, traverse L and belay.

2. 15m 8.Step onto wall and up. Walk right to chains above Journalistic Licence to abseil off [2 x 50m] The old belay and abseil tree is long dead and gone.

Thirty metres right of Eggs Benedict, part way up a gully is a small wall facing northeast. Straight up wall 2m left of crack at right end of wall [landmark]. Committing moves over orange blob of rock lead to good holds in horizontals. Up

On the far left side of The 'Chicken' Boulder. An easy leftwards hand traverse along flake leads to juggy vertical wall.

7 metres from the road

Right side of arete right of Sort-Ed

The obvious deep chimney in large corner is enjoyable the whole way. A bit run out and delicate, although good holds and gear do pop up, they are just not obvious from the ground.

Start: 3 = 30m 12*