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Summary

This crag has been closed by National Parks (February 2019). Please do not climb here until further notice.

© (jgoding)

Description

Classy sports climbing on super steep, fantastic quality sandstone. As they say "the biggest jugs you're ever likely to fall off".

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Approach

Take the climbers' access track signposted off the Buandik Falls track.

© (jgoding)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
Closed

Start just right of caves in gallery chasm. 4 U-bolts to lower off.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

Closed

Start 5m right of 'Bang, Bang You're Dead!'. Balancy start past U-bolt. 5 more FHs (last one is hidden) show the way to the anchor.

FA: Kent Patterson, 2006

Closed

Located on wall opposite the main Gallery cave. Climb obvious right facing wide corner or the face right of the corner passing one UB and two FH¹s. At the 2nd FH move right to doubly bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Hawthorne & Doug Williams

Closed

One move wonder and a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Closed

Not a one move wonder, and not a soft touch.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Closed

Orange overhung arête 10m below and 20m left of the Gallery main cave. Ringbolts! Stick clip first bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Closed

Tough boulderery start of the cairn. Follow the dyke feature to anchor. Thin, technical and sustained.

FFA: chris abernethy

FA: 18 Jan 2015

Closed

Fight your way through a selection of sharpish pillows to a blissful ramble.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

Closed
Closed

A bit more pump than the other two

Closed

Classic pumping leads into a tricky traverse L to an exposed stance on the arete. Finish up on huge buckets.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Edwin Young, 1991

Closed

Navigate your way through the maze of chalk on some of the biggest holds you're ever likely to find at this grade. Easier than 'Weaveworld' and a popular "warmup".

FA: Richard Smith & Glenn Tempest, 1992

Closed

Another fun jug-haul. Has a tricky section in the middle, but the real crux is past the last bolt, which is the same finish as 'Chain of Fools'.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

Closed

Linkup of a more petite fashion.

No prizes for guessing which routes...

Closed

It's 3 o'clock..tick tock..

A hard bouldery start, then it's a pumpy fight up and L to the same chain as the previous routes.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991

Closed

Starts as CTS finishes up MP. Classic pumping.

FA: Nick Sutter, 2000

Closed

FA: Nick Sutter

Closed

Popular with the euros. Up the next line R to a big dyno. Finish off L in the cave. Upgraded due to broken hold

FA: Helmut Nesadba, 1991

Closed

The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly.

FA: Garth Miller, 1996

Closed

Starts as koala, into monkey direct. Finishes as nicotine headwall. Power Endurance.

Closed

The line of the crag. Long steep pumper straight through the guts of the wall. To descend either; back-clean, lower off 'Nicotine' bolts (careful traversing over), or top out and untie (and leave your draws there for the next punter).

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Closed

Bouldery start into monkey puzzle.

FA: Simon Atkins, 1998

Closed

Break off left after 3rd bolt of Koala into MPD.

Closed

Link 'Monkey' Direct into Koala

FA: Joshua Grose, 2007

Closed

Rock isn't as good as the other routes here, but it has a couple interesting moves.

FA: Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, 1994

Closed

Really steep, but a few sneaky rests take the sting out a bit (if you find them).

Make sure your belayer is paying attention when you are clipping. It's not a serious route or a death route, but it could be messy.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992

Closed

Next line right of GT. Crux at the lip, so watch your back (as for previous route).

FA: Corinne Gwyther, 1998

Closed

Mega R to L traverse. Start in the back of the cave R of Pigs. Up through Pigs, cross GT at the 3rd bolt, pull the lip of Koala, move past MP and 'Nicotine', then finish as for LPM.

FA: Julian Saunders, 1998

Closed

Linkup el supremo. First 3 bolts on TT, move R acros CTS and LPM, join MP at fifth bolt. Finish up MP.

A good one to do when the crag is realy busy!

FA: Simon Carter

Closed

Start from the left end of the cave. 3m up, cross right then straight up past RBs.

FA: Andrea Buchaver (Austria), 1992

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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