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description

The 70 degree overhung madness that rears above the walking track. One of the best steep routes in Australia.

Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, Adam Donaghue refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'!

Route history

2008First ascent: Adam Donoghue
6 Jul 2008First free ascent: Lee Cujes

Warnings

14 Jan 2024 Fixed Gear: Old/Sticky Permas Resolved

Location

Lat/Lon: -26.56359, 153.08598

Grade citation

30 Assigned grade
30 Gareth Llewellin
30
33 [32 - 34] ++ grAId

ethic

The cave has been largely developed in the last 10 years We value our relationship with the National Park and expect all users to respect this. It is essential not to disturb the wildlife and stay on the track to limit our impact.

inherited from Mt Coolum

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 85 from 11 ratings.

Difficulty - 30

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

30

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Red point 9
Pink point 6
Tick 1
Attempt 446

Comment keywords

fall nice rad amazing cool super beautiful classic stoked fun great good awesome vertical undercling face bad fingers traverse short crack easy smooth crap rest feet epic pumped struggle crux stuffed tired hard

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 19 May
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