Routes in Orroral area for selected grade

The corner ramp with a crack just right of 'Elendil'.

Better than the original pike-out. Instead of traversing right, continue up the crack above.

Good hand jamming. The steep corner crack six metres left of Matrix with a bulge to finish. There is a bolt belay up and back from the top.

The left-most crack in the corner alcove. Climb the crack and corner to a crux move over the summit bulge (originally a dubious tree root provided a handy jug here, but this has vanished).

Start on the brushed wall four metres left of 'Hurricane Cracks P2'. Up past the peg and then directly to the top.

Start 15 metres left of 'Recompense' at a short corner.

1. 25 metres - Up the corner, right to a boulder and climb the crack.

2. 15 metres - Crux. Climb the wall, traverse right then up to a cave belay.

3. 30 metres - Climb the corners to the right (as for 'Recompense Variant Finish')

No current description available.

Harder and slightly more direct. Start after pitch two of 'Random Route'.

1. 20 metres - Move up and left onto a ledge, then up the corner to a belay at some blocks.

2. 12 metres - Move left and up the short yellow wall and then finish as for Random Route.

Another moss and dirt special. Start at an obvious corner crack 20 metres to the right of and below 'Singularity'. The first pitch is worthwhile.

1. 35 metres - Up a corner for seven metres and exit left up a thin crack, over a bulge and continue up to a large ledge and then move left to a flake pinnacle.

2. 28 metres - Up the pinnacle and wall, before moving left to belay beneath an overhanging chimney.

3. 12 metres - Climb to a tree, then grovel desperately up the gross thrutch chimney.

Very dirty. The crack three metres to the right of 'Dratsab'. Climb the crack to a ledge, up left to another crack and then leftwards up a diagonal crack. Done in two pitches.

"Horrible and harder than 17 for a human being." - Chris Larque. The obvious corner crack and chimney at the bottom of 'Cocker's Gully' (50 metres right of 'Flying Tortoise').

1. 20 metres - Up the crack and chimney and around the overhang.

2. 30 metres - Scramble up a short wall, then left up a split rock.

Traverses the 'North Buttress' from right to left at a fairly even standard, if you don't get lost... (see various topos). Start below the prominent chimney of 'Roderick' ('Cave wall' lower tier).

1. 30 metres - Scramble up to the base of the chimney, move left to the prominent ledge and walk left 20 metres to the three (second 'Hermes' belay).

2. 15 metres - Step down and move left past a tree and exposed rib to an alcove (third 'Indecision' belay).

3. 18 metres - Reverse the third pitch of 'Indecision'; traverse left under the overhang to a cramped ledge.

4. 18 metres - Continue leftwards into a corner and step up onto 'The Prow', belaying at the left end.

5. 24 metres - Leftwards along a ledge and over a water streak to more ledges.

6. 34 metres - Traverse easily leftwards on ledges, tending slightly down, to a large block.

7. 36 metres - More descending traversing until you cross the crack below 'Linear Crack'. Climb the left side of this crack and move left to a broken ledge.

8. 18 metres - Across the slab and move down and around the corner to below the chimney on the second pitch of 'Vent Crack'.

9. 34 metres - Up to the base of the chimney and traverse horizontally over a gap and and around a rib. Descend slightly and continue left to good ledges.

10. 36 metres - From the edge of the ledge, climb a wall for five metres and traverse left and finally up to a good ledge.

11. 35 metres - Along the ledge and diagonally up to below a downwards pointing flake. Left and across a slab to a small ledge and poor belay.

12. 22 metres - The top of the fifth pitch of 'Denethor'; up the easy slab to a large, bushy shelf.

The second longest route in the ACT, and one of the longest in Australia. Probably just less than 500 metres, but potential over that if you get lost along the way.

The description for this is basically as per "The Girdle Traverse", but add a lot more climbing to the end to make the route traverse the Northern Buttress in its entirety.

Traverses the 'North Buttress' from right to left at a fairly even standard, if you don't get lost... (see various topos). Start below the prominent chimney of 'Roderick' ('Cave wall' lower tier).

When the Original traverse gets to "Denethor" continue traversing left across the Northern Slabs past the second rap station of "Counterbalance" ", the second last belay of "Equilibrium", the last belay of "Hands Free", then traverse an unknown line left under an overlap to join "Sunstroke" halfway through its last pitch, continue left and finish up the last pitch of "Drunken Delight".

This was done in a bunch of mostly rope stretching 50+ metre pitches, in 10 pitches in total. It could be done in many other pitch combinations so just follow your nose and belay wherever seems appropriate for you.

It may be a girdle link up, BUT this makes for a stellar day out on a great wall and is the closest thing to a big wall free route that you could hope for in the ACT. Well worth a long, fun day out!

From the top belay of 'Hermes', traverse left (passing under 'Scimitar') then up a nice hand crack to join 'Fearon Variant Finish'. Once the climbing eases off, it is possible to head right up a ramp and blocks to the rap anchor above Alicia.

An alternative pitch 2m left of 'Indecision' P3 and right of 'The Stringer' P2. Up the shallow left-hand corner, around the lip and up the crack.

A number of possibilities exist for good combinations of pitches. The most obvious is the first two pitches of 'Jubilate' followed by 'Outer Limit'.

Quite pleasant. Starts a few metres left of the fifth pitch of 'Outer Limit'. Up the short wall to the steep orange corner which converges to an arete at the top. Straight up, moving right to a tricky mantle near the top.

Start at the left-hand edge of 'The Terrace', about 15m left of Echidna. Head left and climb a shallow right-facing corner then move slightly right (crux - unprotected) and climb a shallow left-facing corner. Trend towards, then climb, a shallow groove for a few metres. At the lichen move right to finish up 'Denethor'. Can be top-roped from Denethor.

Start at the left-hand edge of 'The Terrace', about 15m left of Echidna.

Just another contrived slab. Arrang protection as for 'Peregrine' at the top of the juggy brown slab, then down-climb to the start of the white streak. (If top-roping head straight up a short vertical groove to the white streak.) Follow the white streak to a 10cm wide curving ledge at 27m (bolt as for 'Peregrine'). Continue up 'Peregrine'.

A rising traverse of 'The Northern Slabs' from right to left, with some pleasant slab climbing on the second and third pitches. The second pitch is scarier to follow than to lead.

1. 12m - Start as for 'Denethor'. Up the short black slab to a ledge belay.

2. 40m - Delicately left along the vanishing ledge past the bolt on Balance (first crux) to the corner (gear). Continue left along the vanishing ledge (second crux), past a bolt (Stele Breeze), then easier climbing along more ledges to DBB on the 'Equilibrium' ledge.

3. 40m - Left along the ledge then up a few metres when it vanishes (as for 'Equilibrium'). Continue left to the first belay for 'Just in Passing' (V-shaped ledge?) then diagonally left and up (third crux) to belay under an overlap (shared with 'Bird of Prey').

4. 25m - Left under the overlap and up to a 15cm ledge, then left around a small nose to a short corner. Climb the corner to the higher slab then diagonally left to trad belay on the ledge (shared with 'Sunstroke' P3).

5. 40m - Climb the last pitch of 'Sunstroke'.

Quality climbing and one of the more popular routes in the area. The start is marked with a faint "E" (no longer visible as of 2017) and is located approximately 40m left of Denethor. This is around 10m right of Sunstroke.

1. 50m (15*) A rope stretcher. Climb the left slainting groove for approximately 20m. Traverse right to sloping ledge and long break (cams). Head up the slab above to DBB rap station.

2. 35m (17**) The money pitch. Traverse left and up to first bolt. Directly up to vertical break and 2nd bolt. Keep padding away to tree belay.

3. 28m - Climb right along the overlap until you reach a wide crack. Up this to the slab above, and continue to the next overlap.

4. 24m - Continue right along the slab to the corner then climb the overlap. This is now easier following the demise of an enormous flake. Move diagonally right on the higher slab to a short corner. Up this to tree belay. Walk off.

Various alternative finishes are possible from the top of P2: traverse right to join 'Counterbalance' or 'Balance'; traverse down and left to join 'Solantic'; or climb 'Grandad's Big Day Out'.

Rebolted 2011.

danger

An unprotected variant of the second pitch of 'Equilibrium'. There are almost no handholds and it’s an enjoyable exercise in smearing if you top-rope it from somewhere between Counterbalance and Equilibrium.

Climb the brown slab directly above the belay, moving right (or left) to avoid the lichen when the slab eases off.

Entropy was the result of Chris Largue not spotting the bolt when he first set off to climb Equilibrium! To pacify his whingeing seconds (in those days the belay was a single piton) he taped a sling over a rounded knob using tape from the handle of his hammer (the knob would probably hold a falling mouse).

It's harder than Equilibrium and unprotected unless you have really really sticky tape.

Just what Booroomba needs - another route on 'The Northern Slabs'. Takes a fairly direct line between 'Sunstroke' and 'Bird of Prey'.

Exposed friction climbing at its best. Start 15m left of 'Sunstroke' on or just to the left of a flake resting against the slab.

1. 30m - Technical climbing up and left for 8m, step right to a small ledge at 14m, then easier climbing straight up to belay as for 'Sunstroke'.

2. 28m - danger - superb but unprotected. Move right over blocky ground then left up a short steep ramp. Gather your courage, step onto the slab then straight up to belay at the overlap. Finish up 'Solantic', 'Hands Free', 'Tachyon', or 'Equilibrium'.

Now the longest route in the ACT at over 600 metres. An awesome low commitment adventure and perfect on a sunny Winter day.

Start up 'Melmoth' and then reverse 'The Girdle Traverse: Extended Dance Mix' all the way to join 'Hermes' and up this route then climb the scrubby gully and some 4th Class scrambling above to top out at the summit of the mountain.

The First Ascent was done mainly simul climbing in 4 huge pitches but it can be done in as many pitches as you need or are comfortable with as there are many options along the way for belays.

The hand crack through the small roof 5m right of Magnum Force. Harder, higher and better than it looks. Either finish on the ledge or continue up the off-width to the top.

A fine hand crack, and a good warm-up for Blind Freddy and Faded Youth. Coordinates -35.5943, 148.96969. To find it, stop at the rock cairn 40m below the top of the walk up track and look to your right. You will see a yellow-tagged faint footpad, follow this for approx 80m on the same level and you will find the Live Injection boulder. (5m to the right of live injection is a gnarly-looking thin crack with 3 ancient wires embedded in it).

Very dirty. The thin, sword-grass infested crack up the slab a little left of 'Unknown Pleasures'. Walk up the slab to belay.

On a large group of boulders 300 metres left of the main crag.

Start above the huge overhanging boulder. Up the leftwards sloping ramp, then follow the crack to the top.

The squeeze chimney - messes with your breathing.

The prominent overhanging corner crack.

The original route on the crag, first climbed with a point of aid. Start at the crack about 10 metres right of the 'West Face of Belfry'.

1. 25 metres - Climb the crack, step left and up another crack and through the bulge to a ledge. A short corner (about 19) leads directly to the top from here, but the original route traverses right.

2. 25 metres - Move across the slab to a small ledge, traverse right around the corner (don't look down!) to gain the 'helter-skelter' ramp leading to the top. Poorly protected.

Popular. Start just right of Tarantella. Drift right past 4 bolts. Belay off tree and/or gear. Most leaders of the grade put a piece in Tarantella to protect the start. The bolts were replaced in 2010.

A direct start to Irish Shiela. Pad up the slabby arete past two bolts to join IS at its 3rd bolt. Continue as for IS up the arete. Probably soloed and top roped by many before being recorded.

Good laybacking. The rightwards leaning diagonal on the main face (valley side) of the boulder. The chockstone at the horizontal break is sound.

The crack right and around the corner from 'Honeydripper'. A tricky start (if you're short) but the rest is easy.

Rough on the hands. The crack in the passageway on the uphill side of the 'Crackle' boulder (see approach description).

Starts at the large flake 10 metres right of 'Shaolin'. Up this and onto the slab past a bolt.

danger

The unprotected and exposed slab on the north face of the balanced boulder above the start of 'Norm's Nees'. Take a rope to get off.

You can place an anchor at the start that might keep you off the ground.

It gets more friable as it goes, and is much dodgier than it looks from the bottom. Seriously recommend TR inspection

A face climb up the thinning crack on the north-east side of an isolated boulder. The boulder is a couple of metres left of the main track, half way between the Hog Wall track and the northern entrance to the Atrium.

The horizontal line left of 'Oleo'.

1. 25 metres (15M3) - Free up 'Oleo' and aid horizontally to a hanging belay on the left arete.

2. 15 metres (17) - Continue free along the diagonal line.

A crack and corner with a hard start. Up the crack and corner, descend into the chimney and finish as for 'Kid's Stuff'. First climbed in two pitches.

The crack up the back of 'Mushroom Rock', about 10 metres right of 'Hotline'. Step across the gap and up the crack.

The crack splitting the wall about 20 metres downhill of 'Scaramouche'. Good crack climbing.

The miniscule, clean crack facing 'Trojan Wall', on the knoll 20 metres before the descent gully. Similar to 'California Dreaming'.

Start right of 'Aswan' below a prominent curving overlap crack.

1. 8 metres - Climb the crack to a ledge.

2. 16 metres - Continue up the crack.

The obvious off-width splitting the wall just left of the start of 'Hector's Staircase'.

Start at the crack five metres left of the chimney leading to 'Worm's Tunnel'.

1. 35 metres - Up the crack to a hanging belay where it becomes blind.

2. 15 metres - Continue up until it peters out, then right to below the overhang and into a chimney.

3. 15 metres - Climb the chimney and through the overhang.

Adds a great left leaning hand crack, and a bombay chimney to the best pitches of Dipthong. (or it could be the original if you take the route description with a lot of salt) Start 3 meters left of Dipthong at a slanted crack or chimeny

1. 10m, climb the dirty crack on the right or the chimney to a stance on a dirt ledge

2. 15m, climb the left leaning hand crack out to the arete before pulling back right and into the Bombay chimney to emerge on the ledge below Diphong's third pitch.

3. Finish up the fun pitches of Diphong

Most enjoyable. The steep and strenuous corner crack on the orange wall around the corner, starting from a flat boulder.

Bolt anchor at top on ridge. Rap off or descend by walking ridge to farthest end and scrambling down blocks.

The crack near the centre of the chimeny, about 6m right of KP with a marked start at ground level. You can get access too the bottom via a downclimb near the log bridge, or by climbing up through he bottom of the chimney left of Inversion, or probably more easily rap in from above and reclaim your gear once you are back up

Adds even more excitement to the original! From the top of the flake (triple sling runner), climb straight up the slab with a steep start. Chock belay.

On the wall opposite 'Glory Bound'. Up the flake crack and past the leaning tree to the top.

A hand crack out of a wide chimney 10 metres right of 'The Feckless Porcupine'.

Doubtless climbed before, but bad luck! The short but pleasant hand crack behind the main outcrop (Olmec area).

Opposite 'Olmec'. Offwidth... gets wider as it goes up from a dead tree.

Extremely pleasant. Start on the terrace on the left side of the gully. Traverse from the terrace to the left-hand side of the block beneath the blank corner, at the far left of the terrace. Climb the easy corner to the ledge, then up, traversing right when it steepens near the top.

Short, sharp finger crack on the Uraken terrace.

The right-hand flake-formed crackline down and left from 'Uraken', with an interesting finish.

The off-width corner crack left of Skarsen.

On the downhill side of the outcrop, a crack system leads to a series of zig-zag diagonal roofs. Start at the crack near the big tree and follow the line.

The slab leading up to 'Rum, Buggery and the Lash' with four bolts, starting from a platform.

The thin crack six metres right of 'Wankel Rotary Engine', on the left wall of an enclosure. Finish up a ramp and right around the roof. Poorly protected.

The poorly protected off-width just left of 'Reefer Madness'.

The leftwards sweeping diagonal line on The Courtyard's left wall. Excellent varied climbing with laybacks, underclings, jamming and face moves.

A very short finger crack directly below The Courtyard. Start one metre left of a large detached flake.

Best access from Taming

Start about 15 metres right of the top of 'Mushroom Effect'. Use any available vegetation to get to a horizontal break at three metres, then up the left fist crack.

An exploratory traverse from right to left under the Lightning slab roof, starting at the Helter Skelter ramp. Take some RPs.

The mossy crack in the wall five metres left of 'Uncut Jewel'.