Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

6m L of Yellow Brick Road beneath a hard, smooth wall. 2 Bolt runners in the first third (hard to see). Then four FHs to a chain belay.

4m R. Cool, punchy moves past chain permadraw and a steep finish. 6 FH’s to anchor. Hard!

Climb Extra Shot. Then bust R along the rail passing one FH to anchor of Glenn’s project. Back-jump.

A large traversing line. First three bolts as for Flexion (long draw on second), then layback the monster flake to stance. Clip FH on R, then edge R-wards across the blank slab for about 8m to the point the line skyrockets up through the roof (super). The route keeps going up the headwall for about 10m on superb stone. Take some long slings. A 60m rope is more than sufficient as it’s a traverse.

Two-headed monster with one head of lion, and other of a goat, lion claws in front and goat legs behind, and a long snake tail. Easiest route on the wall so far. White slab start, then up a near-vertical orange wall to major R-facing corner. Climb the wall right of the corner, place one metre sling, then stem out left and through the roof above to ledge. An easy romp for 10m, then she’s steep, all the way to the anchors.

Keep going! Directly up from cave to pull through a bulge onto a ledge. Clip long perma-sling, then up into the base of the stunning corner with perfect rock. Stem to glory. 16 FH’s to anchors.

Closed.

Caution to be taken for the first two bolts. Recommend stick clipping the first (& potentially second). Tricky getting established on the wall, trend right after clipping the second, up the ledges & jugs. some cool moves & some gentle choss pulling as you move higher up the wall to mid-way anchors. Pass anchor to the overhung & airy top section with typical Crossroads mantles on good rock. Crux before the final slab, and glory-romp to anchors (double rings in roof). Intimidating!

The frost giant. As the ground starts to rise there is a flat belay platform. Route goes up the easy black corner above this, and then past a major L-facing corner (awesome) and through a series of bulgy roofs. The top roof move is blind - good luck! Take at least three long slings to reduce drag. Probably 25, lol.

The ‘bolt before the pub closes’ route. Stickclip for the boulder problem start, like all routes on this wall. Scoopy black awesomeness. Sensational! FH’s.

5m R. Climb on to pointy boulder to start and clip first bolt, then up past the jutty-outty block feature (surprisingly technical). Cool climbing on great rock with a no-holds-barred wrestle crux through the bulge. 12 bolts to lower-off.

Up the initial deep V-gully to start from pointy pillar against the cliff. FH’s lead of R-trending corner. A delicate move left, then back R and up tricky headwall.

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Same low start on the crimp rail, move out right then up fridge to top. Right ledges low are out for feet. Watch your back or be keelhauled along the boulder

Crouch start with yellow-corner-underlings and foot in the big feature. Move up using underclings and crimps. Use holds to the left of the crack.

Sit start with very low left undercling jug, and right on a crimp near your face. Sidle up and right. Top out the tall section.

Stand start on sidepull crimps in the middle of the face. Span left to arete, then up face avoiding using right arete.

Very cool kinda dyno, kinda sideways deadpoint. Start on two rails facing outwards in the middle of the boulder. Find a key foot and swing out to the left and up to a pocket. I could catch this out stretch but any smaller wingspan may need to properly dyno. From the pocket climb to the top and top out the boulder.

Sit start may also be possible at a higher grade. Also may be possible statically.

Layaway dirty crack to ferny break, out to slopers on rail arete, then side pull mantel.

Sit start on broken jug, up holds on arete. Bad rock for feet, walking up slightly right side until standing on broken jug. Then straight up arete.

Nice steep little arete.

Off width, start on jug on right block, up left block with some bridging and foot jamming to top out on left block.

Hug up block to pocket and tricky mantel on top, avoid blocks either side!

Awkward, reachy and bad landing! Up blocky steps on steep face to jugs on lip, then reach of faith to large pocket way back.

Follow pockets all the way to last pocket around arete then up. Wish it was longer.

From ledge in middle of wall, if you're short step onto cairn, then jugs and trend left through jugs and rail to lower of 5th hanger

Line right of NR. Up wall to lower off

Up the wall with 3 bolts to shared lower off with JLR.

heads straight up orange wall

Shares a few holds with MM. Run out up high, safest to exit to anchors at MM, beware the tree.

Old abandoned project. Start 5m right of LBB. Up through steep roof past 2 RB and 2 FH to anchor over mantle.

first bolt of TVLJ then step left and up to anchors

Start as for elders have wisdom then up left to anchors for WMV

Start 5m right of TM, off ledge and up past the crack on NP to bulge and past 4 rings to lower off. Rebolted by QUT Cliffhangers in 2021.

Starts under obvious overhung Scoop at top of wall. Anchor and final bolt replaced July 2011

The corner at the right hand end. Up the corner on natural gear, clip bolt before huge move. Head left to anchors.

Start as for first 4 bolts on Bourbon Street but then continue right to the arete past 2 ring bolts and back left to anchor.

Climb arête past 3 rb and some finesse

First route on right side of cave. Up wall and straight out through roof to anchors up headwall.

A bouldery direct start to ‘The Thunderbolt Kid’. A tenuous move off the floor (crux) gains the left hand crimp, then pop to the pocket. Continue into TTK.

Perseus start into Thunder Vision, packs a bit more punch than the original.

The original boulder traverse. Start by stepping off the boulder at the left-most good pockets (as per the start of Event Horizon). Traverse right (tricky at first) and continue low all the way to finish up the start to Arty's Project (to the jug by the first bolt). The flake in the middle can seep, but the wet hole can be avoided by going high (as per the High Traverse) and then dropping down to the 'porthole' before the final crux - only slightly easier. Crux is the final crimpy section to get the sidepull on Artie's start.

Silliness but a good warm-up. Climb Scorpio Low Traverse to the bolt, then reverse Scorpio High all the way back to the start. Bragging rights for multiple laps.

Link Scorpio Low Traverse into Space Race/Red Dwarf for a load of sideways fun. The longest route at the crag (so far), gets a bit of a pump going.

Start as for CoD. Up first 4 bolts on CoD (hangers needed) then step head up and leftward to steep headwall and anchors. Beware of loose rock in the first half, a 60m rope will just get you back to the ground.

Batman start on first bolt, or free the fun start move at much the same grade. Up tending right to climb the beautiful feature.

Start 7m left of Hydra - 1st pitch 18m 20. Up wall veering a little right, up crack to ledge then over bulge & thru small roof to ledge with chains – 2nd pitch 17m – 24. Up wall and thru roof (crux) continue up to Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. Can be done as single pitch. BR, cams, nuts.

The real extension to Hydra, pack your big boy pants. From anchors of hydra head up and left towards arête. Before you get there head back right via horizontal break and then straight up via bolt to DBB.

Two pitch extension out of Dead Mans Cave starting 3m L of Tinkerbell's DBB up the roof crack, finishing at the DBB of 'Sky's the Limit'. 1st pitch: 24 (Yet to be freed), 2nd pitch: 21

Start just right of AJJ. Bouldery start off the big horn to nice headwall and chains on ledge. A few cams to place after the crux will help.

SDS at big hueco. Traverse R and up.

Slabby face/scoop right of tree

Hard, use the tiny two finger nubbin, huck for the top.

The black wall around the corner from Warped Wall. Sustained climbing past about 4 bolts and trad gear to a chain belay.

The arete 2m right of Dino's Dilemma. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay.

Up through bulge at start then slightly overhung wall on thin yellow streak. 6 Rings

Line 5m right of slab. Up orange face, through roof then up black face to anchors. Overdue for a rebolt

Pull on as for Slaptopussy (LH pocket, RH sidepull) and traverse right on crimps in the delightful quartz seam to reach the starting holds of Agent Starlight. Finish up this. Surprisingly sustained.

Sit start and up obvious good holds to slight crux up top.

Most likely done before. If the FA has any information please update

Sit start and up big moves to obvious ledges to easy mantle

Most likely done before. If FA has information, please update

Climbs the proud slightly overhanging arete. The most striking line of the boulder.

Sit start up the little arete/face (Left hand in the obvious pocket, right hand low undercut). Up via crimps then reach to slopey jug and shelved topout.

Same start as P.P. Low ball, traversing R through features at about 1m height above the sand. Once at the obvious corner traverse R at about 2m above sand. same finish as P.P.

Same corner block match-start as Sandgroper. From here at the caves edge traverse R over sharp, juggy holds of M.H and R.B and through blocky jugs to corner. Continue R along wall to obvious rest halfway through route. Continue R through until Pandanus. Use face holds the whole way (i.e. the top of the wall is out).

Start in bottom of crack beneath overhanging block. Follow crack diagonally up and L to get established on arête before committing to an awkward mantle top out.

Jump for the letterbox slot just right of arete ( or deduct a grade if you can reach it) then continue up arete. An excellent but harder sit start is possible.

Thin face

Salty slopers, clean well. Highball

Highball madness riding high above the sea. Sit start big right hand and left face, then up to increasing steepness. Don't drop it at the top. Right face is out.

Low start to Shadey Dayz. From side pull and small crimp out left, up to break then right to join Shadey Days at flat knob (can be done direct to knob from sit-start at the same grade).

From crimps on right edge of rail, big move up and right to shallow 2 finger pocket. Out left to jug, then out right to side pull in groove. Up on slopers.

Up white rock on small under cling side pull to jug rail in break, then straight up through roof on crimp to dead point jug at lip.

Start with a high step. exciting finish.

Sit start. Gastons, finger jams, facey radness!

From large jug on right to cool crimps out left on face, then airy topout. Fill hole in landing with pads... Classic!

Out from under small roof to beautiful orange rock with interesting features. Great problem!

Cool moves, some find reachy.

Committing but fun, down climb chimney on southern side of block to exit.

Good start on jugs before moving down under the ovrehang on bad holds to an undercling. Top out on the sloper.

Holds are not super sharp but some edges are nasty.

Facing the ocean start on good rail at chest height and foot down low, go around the corner and straight up 3m using the crimps.

Left line through the small roof, then follow the relentless diagonal breaks.

From the good "hole" in the center of the steep "spray wall", attain the good hold to the right then directly up via an undercling.

Sharp rock but nice holds with a couple of slopers

Start in sharp mono and traverse left to up and out. Careful finger placement will result in keeping your fingers.

Starts on long crimp at the bottom( sit start). Goes straight up and left. Exit is to the left of the highest point thru pocket and flakey crimp. Same finish as Natural Mistic.

Start matched on the crimp next to the cave. Climb up the arete and finish on same horn as Beach Worm Wiggle.

The line of stainless carrots 2m right of Scotch and Dry

The left side of the arête

Left of offwidth on same block as UR2. Thin moves to same carrot belay on top of block. Can abseil off tree to clean.