A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Murray Mark Ashmore Alec Landstra Brendan Heywood Jason Lammers I Skip Crux Holds Jake Hisa Matt Tranter Ben Jenga
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1.
Nowra
1464 in Crag
-
1.1.
Hospital Rocks 36 in Crag
- 1.1.1. Slabby Wall 10 in Area
- 1.1.2. Steeper Wall 10 in Area
- 1.1.3. Boome Crag 13 in Crag
- 1.1.4. River Block 3 in Area
-
1.2.
Thompson's Point 374 in Crag
-
1.2.1.
Thompson's Sunrise 40 in Crag
- 1.2.1.1. Lookout Wall 14 in Area
- 1.2.1.2. The Block Environs 9 in Area
- 1.2.1.3. Balrog Wall 7 in Area
- 1.2.1.4. Isengard Buttress 6 in Area
- 1.2.1.5. Orange Streak Wall 4 in Area
- 1.2.2. Indian Wall 11 in Area
- 1.2.3. Little Graham's Boulder 3 in Area
- 1.2.4. Descent Gully Walls 39 in Area
- 1.2.5. Mini Wall 4 in Area
- 1.2.6. Orca Area 14 in Area
- 1.2.7. Alley Wall 12 in Area
- 1.2.8. Vanderholics Wall 10 in Area
- 1.2.9. Butterfly Wall 8 in Area
- 1.2.10. Gunbarrel Wall 8 in Area
- 1.2.11. The Very Nice Wall 16 in Area
- 1.2.12. The Pocketed Wall 25 in Area
- 1.2.13. Little Grease Cave 9 in Area
- 1.2.14. The Grease Cave 36 in Area
- 1.2.15. Betty Blue Area 32 in Area
- 1.2.16. The Wastelands 20 in Area
- 1.2.17. Vine Wall 17 in Area
- 1.2.18. The Fossil Cave 10 in Area
- 1.2.19. Sloth Area 21 in Area
- 1.2.20. Lizard Block 19 in Area
-
1.2.21.
Carpark Canyon 13 in Unknown
- 1.2.21.1. Black Slabbath 6 in Unknown
- 1.2.21.2. Western Walls 7 in Unknown
-
1.2.22.
Midnight Paddlers Boulders 6 in Crag
- 1.2.22.1. Dooberlacky 2 in Boulder
- 1.2.22.2. Midnight Paddlers Boulder 4 in Boulder
-
1.2.1.
Thompson's Sunrise 40 in Crag
-
1.3.
The Grotto Cliffline 292 in Crag
- 1.3.1. Hogwarts 6 in Area
- 1.3.2. P.C. 42 in Cliff
- 1.3.3. Powerlines Area 3 in Area
- 1.3.4. The Colosseum 12 in Area
- 1.3.5. The Island DWS 10 in Area
- 1.3.6. Donutland Leftside 26 in Area
- 1.3.7. Donutland Rightside 25 in Area
- 1.3.8. Gridlock Block 5 in Area
- 1.3.9. The Mini Mart 4 in Area
- 1.3.10. The Grotto Proper 70 in Area
- 1.3.11. The Hood Area 10 in Area
- 1.3.12. Iceman Wall 16 in Area
- 1.3.13. Gonads Wall 13 in Area
- 1.3.14. Palm Tree Wall 17 in Area
- 1.3.15. Moon Wall 4 in Area
- 1.3.16. Grotto Boulders 28 in Field
-
1.4.
Bomaderry Creek 478 in Crag
- 1.4.1. Lot 34 15 in Area
- 1.4.2. Lot 33 Leftside 11 in Area
- 1.4.3. Lot 33 Bouldering 63 in Sector
- 1.4.4. Lot 33 Rightside 4 in Area
- 1.4.5. Mortein Wall 14 in Cliff
- 1.4.6. Rosies 28 in Area
- 1.4.7. Bartondale 20 in Area
- 1.4.8. The Bakery 11 in Area
- 1.4.9. South Central 48 in Area
-
1.4.10.
Cheesedale 85 in Area
- 1.4.10.1. Cum Wall 3 in Area
- 1.4.10.2. Leftside 21 in Area
- 1.4.10.3. Cheesemonster Wall 18 in Area
- 1.4.10.4. Cheddar Choss Wall 17 in Area
- 1.4.10.5. Cheesedale bouldering 26 in Area
-
1.4.11.
The Mushroom 27 in Crag
- 1.4.11.1. Noreast Side 14 in Sector
- 1.4.11.2. Souwest Side 13 in Sector
-
1.4.12.
Scattered Crags 112 in Area
- 1.4.12.1. Choc-A-Block 24 in Cliff
- 1.4.12.2. The Ammo Dump 21 in Area
- 1.4.12.3. Evil Dick Buttress 3 in Cliff
- 1.4.12.4. Sewer Wall 9 in Area
- 1.4.12.5. Julian Rocks 22 in Area
- 1.4.12.6. F.O. Crag 5 in Area
- 1.4.12.7. Scattered Crags Bouldering 28 in Area
- 1.4.13. Creek Side 40 in Area
-
1.5.
Babylon Areas 115 in Crag
-
1.5.1.
Babylon 33 in Area
- 1.5.1.1. Eastern Cliffline 11 in Area
- 1.5.1.2. Western Cliffline 15 in Area
- 1.5.1.3. Babbling Wall / Big Orange Wall 5 in Sector
- 1.5.1.4. Jumjuma 2 in Area
-
1.5.2.
The Gaza Strip 30 in Area
- 1.5.2.1. Dead Cat Wall 6 in Area
- 1.5.2.2. Little White Wall 6 in Area
- 1.5.2.3. Big White Wall 6 in Area
- 1.5.2.4. Falafel Wall 6 in Area
- 1.5.2.5. Orange Wall 1 in Area
- 1.5.2.6. The Green Wall 5 in Area
- 1.5.3. The West Bank 12 in Area
-
1.5.4.
Occupied Territories 40 in Area
- 1.5.4.1. Scoop Wall 12 in Area
- 1.5.4.2. Slabs 10 in Area
- 1.5.4.3. First Canyon 12 in Area
- 1.5.4.4. Holy Wall 1 in Area
- 1.5.4.5. Second Canyon 5 in Area
-
1.5.1.
Babylon 33 in Area
- 1.6. Ben's Walk 7 in Crag
- 1.7. The Furnace 5 in Crag
- 1.8. The Brothel 4 in Crag
- 1.9. The Wire 7 in Crag
-
1.10.
Bamarang 8 in Crag
-
1.10.1.
Reservoir Rocks 4 in Crag
- 1.10.1.1. The Cave 4 in Sector
- 1.10.2. Pulpit Saddle 4 in Crag
-
1.10.1.
Reservoir Rocks 4 in Crag
- 1.11. The Lost World 7 in Crag
- 1.12. Falls Creek 6 in Crag
-
1.13.
Flat Rock 83 in Crag
- 1.13.1. The Otherside 3 in Sector
- 1.13.2. Dam Wall 4 in Sector
- 1.13.3. Uppers 23 in Sector
- 1.13.4. The Colosseum 30 in Sector
- 1.13.5. Lime Wall 8 in Cliff
- 1.13.6. Wasp Wall 5 in Cliff
- 1.13.7. Feather Cave 1 in Cliff
- 1.13.8. D&B 4 in Sector
- 1.13.9. Pow Wall 5 in Sector
- 1.13.10. Pipeline 0 in Sector
- 1.14. Big Red 34 in Crag
- 1.15. Bill and Ted's 8 in Crag
-
1.1.
Hospital Rocks 36 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Nowra 1,464 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Bouldering and other styles
Lat / Long: -34.885200, 150.543882
summary
The best sport climbing in the state. Sometimes ugly, but great climbing, with a huge variety of styles. Also home to some of the state's hardest bouldering.
description
Nowra is a fantastic sport climbing area, in quite a beautiful urban setting, with many of the crags sitting in valleys carved out by the Shoalhaven River. It is not unusual to park your car outside someone's house, then disappear into the bush, and 3 minutes later be at the crag. The climbing is characterised by being steep and powerful, there are not many pure endurance routes. While the climbing is not as visually inspiring as other areas in Australia, once you're on it's very good.
Nowra is a very comfortable place to climb, most crags require a five minute approach at the most. All routes are bolted with easy lower offs and the rock is generally very good. While Nowra doesn’t offer the casual café style that the Blue Mountains has, it is a good location for rest days, with reasonable surf only a short drive away. Nowra itself has all the amenities you would expect from a reasonably sized city.
For the beginner climber Nowra doesn't have a lot to offer, all the easier type climbs do tend to be the chossier ones, and there is very little below grade 18. For the intermediate to advanced climber however there is a lot of very good routes to do, especially if you climb 20+. The best crag in the area is Thompson's Point, it offers more climbing in a greater range of grades than any other Nowra crag. This is probably the best crag to visit if you are an intermediate climber. In the 18 to 24 range there is a plethora of really good routes, all well protected and ideal for pushing your grades on.
For the advanced climber there is loads of stuff to do. There are a lot of other crags apart from Thompson's, they are not quite so large and varied. The intermediate climber has to wander about a bit, but there are some real gems to be found. For the harder climber Nowra is a paradise of projects to do.
Apart from climbing there is also a lot of bouldering, a lot of hard stuff has been done at areas like Lot 33 and Cheesedale, with much more being developed.
All up Nowra is a great place to climb, what it lacks in presence, it makes up for in fun.
access issues
This climbing area has recently become a focus spot for tension between climbers and the local Aboriginal community. Be informed and respect closures. Clean up chalk and rethink adding additional new routes to crags with access issues.
approach
Three hours south of Sydney. It’s easy to get public transport to Nowra, once you are there many of the crags are in walking distance of each other. If you're staying at one of the parks opposite Thompson's Point it may be wise to hire a canoe to get across, which saves a long walk.
where to stay
It is possible to bush camp for free, but you want to have found a very secluded spot- climbers' cars have been broken into. The best option is to pay for camping at one of the parks opposite Thompson's Point.
ethic
Mostly developed as a sport climbing and bouldering area. Some trad climbing exists, mainly the pure cracks. If developing new areas keep an eye and and ear out for Aboriginal cultural heritage, including cave art.
1.1. Hospital Rocks 36 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.869761, 150.593540
description
Hospital Rocks is located opposite the hospital in Nowra. It has easy access and the routes are easy to set top ropes on. This makes it a good beginners area but also has a few harder ones for other climbers too. 2 minute walk in. Hot in summer. Watch for the Nowra Lads!
1.1.1. Slabby Wall 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.869652, 150.593733
description
The 1st cliff you encounter from the track. Take the first gully directly opersite the hospital and turn right at the bottom. The rock is a little soft and has been losing flakes for years making some of the climbs rather stiff for the grade.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Mad Dog
2 bolts to chains. FA: Nathan Bolton | 21 | 8m, 3 | |||||
2 |
★ Hair'o'tha Dog
Graded 17 ... going on 21! FA: 's, 1980 | 19 | 9m, 4 | |||||
3 |
★ Little Boxer Girl
FA: 's, 1980 | 11 | 9m, 4 | |||||
4 |
★ Scarlet Dog (LH variant)
Uses the link up bolt to Little Boxer Girl to skip the crux of Scarlet Dog. Move left to the little cave under the link up bolt, go straight up. Once past the (high) first bolt, traverse right to finish the rest of Scarlet Dog. Nice variant for beginners. | 12 | 10m, 4 | |||||
5 |
★ Scarlet Girl
Uses the lone ringbolt in the middle of the climbs for a linkup! Goes from Scarlet Dog into Little Boxer Girl or vice versa - formerly 'Scarlet Poodles'. (Name change to save confusion - no link to Crashing Poodles.) | 16 | 10m, 5 | |||||
6 |
★ Scarlet Dog
FA: 's, 1980 | 13 | 10m, 4 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★ Crashing Poodles
FA: 's, 1980 | 15 | 10m, 4 | |||||
8 |
★ Final Call
FA: 's, 1980 | 14 | 10m, 4 | |||||
9 |
★ Dot The Dashund
Left side of the arete. FA: 's, 1980 | 15 | 11m, 5 | |||||
10 |
★ Jesse Fetch
Right side of the arete. FA: 's, 1980 | 13 | 11m, 4 |
1.1.2. Steeper Wall 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.869890, 150.593510
description
Walk past the Slabby Wall to the next little cliff. 1 minute.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ McFlurry
FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 22 | 12m | |||||
2 |
★ Kwikgrip
FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 22 | 13m | |||||
3 |
★ Follow The Leader
FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 23 | 15m | |||||
4 |
★★ Bamboozled
Start RH edge of cave at bottom, working up flake, then traverse left above cave and over bulge. Then straightish up. FA: Alistair Fogg, 1999 | 18 | 15m | |||||
5 |
★ Sword Swallowing Cum Junkies From Hell
Classic sand jug pulling. Start: Left of TG16 at line of rings. Almost shared start with Bamboozled, but straight up. I think it's also called 'Pasty Poofs', although the latter gets a bonus grade. FA: G Hill | 16 | 15m, 6 | |||||
6 |
★ Pasty Poofs
Line of rings going straight up left of TG16 and right of Bamboozled. Another name for Sword Swallowing Cum Junkies? FA: GHILL | 17 | 15m | |||||
7 |
★ TG16
All ring bolted classic FA: 's, 1980 | 16 | 15m | |||||
8 |
★ Nimrod
FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 17 | 15m | |||||
9 |
★ The Grouch
FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 17 | 15m | |||||
10 |
★ Uncle Udfuddy
FA: 's, 1980 | 11 | 15m |
1.1.3. Boome Crag 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.870716, 150.592614
summary
A short intense orange wall, capped by an overhang to keep it dry.
description
Quite short routes on very good rock. The left half of the crag could be climbed as boulder problems with a good crash pad. Nice that you can easily walk to the anchors if you want to set up from above.
approach
Continue walking up river past "Steeper Wall" for about 80 meters.
A shortcut light scramble alternative is to go in from an electricity pole opposite the Cancer Care centre, labelled 'Daniella's Run' (https://goo.gl/maps/naFpaRknq5JzhSqH8). Down, left, cross a gap where there's a car body jammed sideways, follow the narrow passages and you're there.
history
One of the first areas bolted at Nowra. The first generation carrot bolts can still be seen rotting away in the brilliant orange rock. All of the worthwhile routes have been re-bolted in stainless steel. Some of the grades have been pumped up to get traction into the area.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Barely a Climb
The short slab on the very left of the cliff. FA: Graeme Hill, 1983 | 12 | 5m, 4 | |||||
2 |
Carrot Bolted Slab
Start 2m right of BaC. Single carrot bolt to top out. FA: Graeme Hill, 1983 | 12 | 5m, 1 | |||||
3 |
★★ Carrot Bolted Boulder Problem
Start 3m right of the corner. Light coloured wall with single carrot bolt. FA: S Bullen, 1983 | V6 | 4m, 1 | |||||
4 |
★ Barely Legal
First climb on the wall with stainless steel rings. FA: Graeme Hill & S Bullen, 1983 | 23 | 4m, 4 | |||||
5 |
★★ Boome Boome Boome
Start 2m right of BL. Great rock thin moves. FA: Graeme Hill & S Bullen, 1983 | 24 | 6m, 5 | |||||
6 |
★★ Bullen's Ballbags
Marked BB. Shares the same start as BBB but heads straight up. FA: Graeme Hill & S Bullen, 1983 | 25 | 6m, 5 | |||||
7 |
★ Atomic Boome
Start 4m right of BB. Was once graded 22 so may be a softy for its grade. Thin diagonal leading leftwards. FA: Graeme Hill & S Bullen, 1983 | 24 | 7m, 6 | |||||
8 |
★ Verminator
Central route up the main wall right of AB. FA: Graeme Hill, 1983 | 21 | 7m, 6 | |||||
9 |
★★ To Death
Start 1m right of V, just left of Messi Dog. The crag classic. Keep left of the bolts until transitioning at the 3rd to enjoy the cooler grade appropriate sequence and run of finger pockets. Route name changed at the request of the first ascensionist. FA: Graeme Hill, 1983 | 20 | 8m, 7 | |||||
10 |
★ To Death (RH variant)
RH Variant of 'To Death'. Start as for 'Messi Dog', straight up then moving right through the little cave, then straight up. Much easier moves than left of the bolts TD even with half the bomber hold being torn off near the 3rd bolt. | 18 | 8m, 6 | |||||
11 |
★★ Messi Dog
Start at renamed 'To Death' (Previously LBD), then traverse diagonally right past little cave to Feckless Mutt anchors. FA: Graeme Hill, 1983 | 19 | 8m, 5 | |||||
12 |
Feckless Mutt
Start 3m right of LBD. Straight up to shared anchors with Messi Dog. Dramatic hands only start pulling on crack. FA: Graeme Hill, 1983 | 19 | 8m, 7 | |||||
13 |
Sock Chewing Slobber Dog
The right most route up the black slab. FA: Graeme Hill, 1983 | 21 | 8m, 7 |
1.1.4. River Block 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.868856, 150.594113
description
When you walk over the fence head down and right (instead of left to main area) and there is a tall butress visable.
approach
When you walk over the fence head down and right (instead of left to main area) and there is a tall butress visable.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Space Cowboy
Up flake to steep corner and ledge then launch up overhanging arête to lower offs. FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003 | 23 | 17m, 8 | |||||
2 |
★ Dancing Buffalo Man
Up wall for a couple of moves then reachy span to arête. Up to ledge then cool head wall above. FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2002 | 18 | 15m, 6 | |||||
3 | Project |
1.2. Thompson's Point 374 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.872220, 150.576179
description
The best crag in the region for both the variety of routes and the scenery. Generally excellent climbing with something for all climbers... roofs, walls and slabs.
access issues
RESPECT ABORIGINAL CULTURAL HERITAGE CLOSURES - there are two closed areas at Thompson's Point containing art - The Mini Wall (under Cowboy Junkies) and the right side of The Pocketed Wall. Respect anyone who is visiting these areas - keep the noise down and give them space to appreciate these important sites. This is an evolving access issue so please keep informed via ACANSW website and Facebook group.
NO CAMPING AT THIS CRAG PLEASE - including the two carparks or any cave at the crag. Council Rangers have been patrolling the area (2019) and telling campers it is not legal to camp here. Rubbish and unattended campfires are also a major trigger point for bad relations with land managers. Council has received complaints from the public and is forced to follow them up. Continued access to these areas is at stake.
approach
Follow Yalwal Road out West of Nowra following signs for the University. After a couple of kms, turn into George Evans Road signposted for the Uni. Straight through the first roundabout and again at the second. Follow the dirt road for less than a kilometre and take a right into Jonsson Road. Follow to the very end under the powerlines.
where to stay
The Shoalhaven Ski Park offers a variety of paid camping and caravanning options directly across the river from Thompson's Point (about a 25min drive around through Nowra, or you can borrow a canoe from the park and paddle straight across the river to Thompson's Point), otherwise accommodation can be found in Nowra, or camping further afield such as the Berry Showground (Camping at Thompson's Point and some other bush areas is banned!).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
23 |
Maturating Decompossional Gas
A bunch of roofy things. Generally fine climbing swiped off Fat Mark after he gave up. Start: Left side of the cliff FA: G Hill, 2004 | 21 | 10m, 7 |
1.2.1. Thompson's Sunrise 40 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.871702, 150.578505
description
A separate, North-East facing area of Thompson's Point. Captures the morning sun well as it's namesake suggests, and is a warm Winter crag. Access is convenient via access gully's at either end of the cliff line, not far from ample car parking. The public lookout area above the 'Lookout Wall' also features a picnic table.
access issues
There is a private property boundary just meters past the East Access gully (in line with the East cliff face), do not stray past here.
approach
As for Thompson's Point. On the dirt road when you first reach the powerline corridor (2 sets), you can either park directly under the power lines where there is parking, signage and an obvious dirt foot path to 'Lookout Wall' (East access gully), or keep driving on and take the next right down a vehicle track to a second powerline corridor (1 set) and park there where you are closer to the 'Orange Streak Wall' (west end access gully) which starts under the power line.
1.2.1.1. Lookout Wall 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.872082, 150.579184
approach
Lookout Wall is located directly below the Thompson's Point Reserve 'Lookout' and is accessed by scrambling down the gully 10m right (east) of the lookout.
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1.2.1.2. The Block Environs 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.871799, 150.578681
|
1.2.1.3. Balrog Wall 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.871643, 150.578338
approach
Balrog Wall is located 25m to the right of 'The Block' Environs.
|
1.2.1.4. Isengard Buttress 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.871450, 150.578049
approach
Isengard Buttress is located 25m to the right of 'Balrog Wall'.
|
1.2.1.5. Orange Streak Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.871353, 150.577792
approach
Take the rock access gulley directly under the power lines.
|
1.2.2. Indian Wall 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.869169, 150.574762
approach
Take the normal route as for the Descent Gully Walls and turn right before going down the gulley to immediately hit the North facing Indian Wall. Alternatively whilst still on the Thompson's Point plateau walk East at the North end to find the alternate descent gulley into Indian Wall.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Tomahawk
FA: John Koster, 1998 | 21 | 10m, 5 | |||||
2 |
★ Dances With Sheep
A pleasant romp on good holds. Start: Start just left of the arete on teh left end of Indian wall. FA: michael fawcett | 19 | 10m, 5 | |||||
3 |
Project
Open project? Bolted arete. | 12m | ||||||
4 |
★ Don't Climb The Tee-Pee
FA: John Koster, 1998 | 23 | 12m, 7 | |||||
5 |
★ Indian Head
Enjoyable climbing. Start: Start below the big cave. FA: John, 1998 | 23 | 12m, 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Chief Pocahontas
FA: Stewart Black, 1999 | 25 | 11m, 5 | |||||
7 |
★ Chief Of Commitment
A hell of a desperate number - especially in summer! FA: michael fawcett | 24 | 11m, 5 | |||||
8 | ★ Geronimo/COC Link up | 20 | 11m, 5 | |||||
9 |
Geronimo
FA: John Koster, 1998 | 19 | 8m, 5 | |||||
10 |
Little Big Horn
Starts on the left side of the descent gully. Up the orange ramp to the high first bolt. Good moves through the cave lead to an awkward and pumpy finish. FA: John Koster, 1998 | 17 | 8m, 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
Sitting Bull
Starts to the right of the descent gully. Enjoy the sloperd. FA: John Koster, 1998 | 16 | 8m, 4 |
1.2.3. Little Graham's Boulder 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.868714, 150.574220
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Gripping Yarns
Start on the left hand edge of the boulder. Stick clip the first bolt and a low bolt assists with keeping the rope out of the start moves.. Thug your way up the start or have a technical brain about you... Finishes on the same anchors as Cheesy Noblicker Set: Rick Phillips FA: Ryan | 22 | 5m | |||||
2 |
★ Cheesy Noblicker
An enjoyable short route with an interesting dyno on great rock. Pity it's so short, add a sit start to make this climb a little more worthwhile. Has been rebolted and has new lower offs FA: Paul Westwood, 1991 | 22 | 5m | |||||
3 |
★ Shy Romantic
Short but worthwhile, add the sit start for the full tick. Has been rebolted with new lower offs FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1991 | 21 | 5m |
1.2.4. Descent Gully Walls 39 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.869122, 150.574290
description
First area from the car park. At the bottom of the carpark (near the power poles) take one of the well-worn dirt paths, and follow it right along the top of the cliffline. Eventually you'll get to a section with a steepish rockscramble, and then a little corridor down to the base of the cliff that pops out between Spokeye and Nimby.
Often packed because of the great selection of low to mid range routes.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Touchwood
FA: Mark Woodard, 1995 | 20 | 6m | |||||
2 |
★ Hard Knee
FA: Mark Woodard, 1995 | 18 | 7m | |||||
3 |
★ Puppy
FA: Mark Woodard, 1995 | 16 | 7m | |||||
4 |
★ Pete's Two Bob
4 or 5 moves on incuts. FA: Peter Van Klooster, 1999 | 14 | 6m | |||||
5 |
Tony
Short ledge left of the left hand wall block arete FA: Sue Young, 1999 | 14 | 8m, 3 | |||||
6 |
★ Janine
FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 19 | 9m | |||||
7 |
★ Lefty
FA: Pat Thompson, 1991 | 18 | 10m | |||||
8 |
Spokeye
FA: Garth Miller, 1991 | 16 | 7m | |||||
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
Nimby
The first route to the right of the descent gully (facing the cliff). Originally a high boulder problem, then retrobolted. Somewhat desperate (for the first few moves). FA: Mike Law, 1995 | 23 | 11m | |||||
10 |
★ Alex The Kidd
FA: Ant Prehn & Alex Simon, 1990 | 21 | 12m | |||||
11 |
★ Sonic Hedgehog
An improbable looking blank wall. Don't break that pebble! FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1990 | 24 | 14m | |||||
12 |
★★ Layoff
Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasp nest near top Start two metres left of SPK ,moving up to follow the 5 RB's to anchor. Single U bolt lower off. Stiff at grade 20. FA: Venus Kondos, 1995 | 20 | 15m, 7 | |||||
13 |
★★ Samurai Pizza Catz
Probably the most popular route at Nowra at the grade. Great friction work. FA: Ant Prehn, Giles Bradbury & Trudy Bretherton, 1990 | 18 | 15m | |||||
14 |
★ Woderwick
Start left of the cave as per BD. FA: Sue Young, 1994 | 17 | 15m | |||||
15 |
★ Big Dreams
Up beside the cave (on its left) as for W, hand traverse across the ridge. Left foot high step onto the lintel to get that 2nd bolt and up you go. FA: Sue Young, 2000 | 15 | 15m | |||||
16 |
Linkedin
Up first 2 bolts of Lucifer then trend left into bolts as for Big Dreams. Couple of longer draws useful here. It's just an excuse to fondle the jugs at the top of Big Dreams FA: Simon Vaughan, 2 Jan 2022 | 12 | 15m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
17 |
★ Lucifer
Climb into the cave then up around to the right. Then follow the ringbolts to the top. First bolt is quite high so be careful. FA: Sue Young & Catherine Eadie, 1994 | 11 | 15m | |||||
18 |
★ Velux
Left wall of the big chimney. Up to low anchor. Funky. FA: Mikl Law, 1993 | 18 | 15m | |||||
19 |
★★ Very Blunt
Links start of Blunt into the finish of Velux, at least you can finish at the top of the cliff! | 19 | 20m | |||||
20 |
★ Euphoria / Blunt
The route left of Santas Little Helper. Up through steep face moves to the fin shaped hold and continue straight up. FA: Nathan Bolton, 2002 | 19 | 15m, 4 | |||||
21 |
★★ Santa's Little Helper
1.5m right of the left arete. Up wall and then move left over cave and then straight up FA: Sue Young, 1997 | 15 | 15m, 6 | |||||
22 |
★★ Butt Head
Very excellent slabbing, with a thought provoking crux. Start: Start on the juggy bit of wall 4m right of the chimney. Has a new second bolt to protect the ground fall. FA: Rod Young, 1994 | 17 | 15m, 7 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
23 |
★★ Barbie Twins
Very nice crack climb. Layback up the crack until the crux at the crack finish (3/4 up), then up holds to the RBs. FA: Rod Young & Catherine Eadie, 1991 | 16 | 17m, 7 | |||||
24 |
★★ Beavis
Warning Flora and Fauna: small wasp nest below the anchors Thin and balancy slab wall right of Barbie Twins. FA: Rod Young, 1994 | 20 | 15m, 6 | |||||
25 |
★★ Hang On
Start on the very right end of the terrace next to the big chimney. Climb up past a tricky move at the first bolt, then try some left edge bridging at the 2nd roof to overcome the crux, then cruise your way up (yes 3 roofs on this one). FA: Garth Miller | 17 | 15m, 6 | |||||
26 |
★★ Rod Boner's Glory Hole
"There's a place in France where the naked ladies dance, there's a hole in the wall where you put your..." Santa Claus is coming down this chimney to find out who's naughty or nice.... a modern classic or an aquired taste, there's something for everyone in Rod Boner's glory hole. Careful of loose rock at the top of the chimney, there is no where for your belayer to run if you dislodge one. The horrific glue drips in the back of the chimney are from an attempt to stabilise the chockstone at the top. Take care. FFA: Rod Boner & Derk Shpangler, 26 Jun 2019 | 11 | 20m | |||||
27 |
★ Hold On
Start: 2m right in gully finishing on New Nowra is Old News anchors. FA: Rickster, Bundy, Big G & Trad dad, 2010 | 18 | 15m | |||||
28 |
★ New Nowra is Old News
On left hand arete of turtle wall, laybacking the crack to start and some nice climbing with an exciting finish. FA: Jason Lammers, Rick Phillips, Big G & Jasper (Rick's Dog), 2010 | 17 | 15m | |||||
29 |
★ Terrapin Tricks
Just right of New Nowra is Old News. Straight up. FA: Rod Young, 2010 | 17 | 15m, 5 | |||||
30 |
★ Hare Of The Tortoise / Turtle 2
Runs through left edge of cavelet. Straight up to ring lower-offs. FA: Rod Young, 2010 | 15 | 15m | |||||
31 |
★★ Turtle Wall
Mantle (try the right edge), up through cavelet, crux around 3rd RB and over lip onto wall. Trend right following juggy cracks on the turtle shell to ring lower-offs. FA: Rod Young | 14 | 17m, 7 | |||||
32 |
★ Velvetine
Straight up as for Turtle wall, but in the cave go onto the right ledge and out right to the 2nd (or 3rd) ring bolt. FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 17 | 14m | |||||
33 |
Slim Pig Games
FA: Wonderdog, 2003 | 17 | 17m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
34 |
★★ Mad Hatter
Start at the end of the Turtle Wall (as for Turtle Wall route). Trend up and right for 3 ring bolts then conquer a massive exposed traverse around right that keeps going until a belay station at the end of Ten Gallon Rehab (sharp arete). Technically easy but not for the faint hearted! Be aware of rope friction and communication between belayer and leader on this one. FA: Rod Young & Sue Young, 1999 | 17 | 20m, 12 | |||||
35 |
★★ Maddest Hatter
The extension to Mad Hatter with exciting, committing and exposed moves. FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 21 | 8m | |||||
36 |
★★★ Cowboy Junkies
A total Nowra classic. Great fun roofing with very cool moves. Pity it is quite short, but at least you get a bit of exposure. This route starts in the exposed cave above the closed Mini Wall. Do not abseil down Mini Wall to get off - scramble off instead. FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1990 | 25 | 15m, 6 | |||||
37 |
★★ Potato Junkies
Start as for CJ but continue straight out of roof, exit out over roof lip and up left to anchors. FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 24 | 10m, 6 | |||||
38 |
★★★ Ten Gallon Rehab
Extension of 'Cowboy Junkies' following lip of roof to arete, then up to finish at 'Mad Hatter' anchors. | 27 | 25m, 10 | |||||
39 |
Butt Rock
Up chimney tending left under the little roof and up the left hand groove to the anchors on 'Lucifer'. | 14 | 17m |
1.2.5. Mini Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.869395, 150.574025
description
Very short poxy wall below the 'Cowboy Junkies' route. Some cool holds.
access issues
Mini Wall is closed to climbing in respect to the historic and continuing Aboriginal cultural use of the area. Members of the local community have asked that the wall and surrounding area be respected as you would respect a Western religious site. Please stay clear of this wall and be respectful (& friendly) when climbing nearby!
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Hyperactive Child
THIS SMALL WALL BELOW COWBOY JUNKIES IS CLOSED. AND IS VERY UNLIKELY TO EVER BE RE-OPENED TO CLIMBERS, PLEASE RESPECT THAT. FA: Paul "Punk" Westwood | 25 | 6m | |||||
2 |
★ Little Burgh Boy
THIS SMALL WALL BELOW COWBOY JUNKIES IS CLOSED. AND IS VERY UNLIKELY TO EVER BE RE-OPENED TO CLIMBERS, PLEASE RESPECT THAT. Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. Starts with a few long moves to break. At the break grab the undercling and crank to the top ledge. Lower offs further back on top ledge. Start: Start 2m L of WATG FA: 2006 | 24 | 6m | |||||
3 |
★ World According To Garf
THIS SMALL WALL BELOW COWBOY JUNKIES IS CLOSED. AND IS VERY UNLIKELY TO EVER BE RE-OPENED TO CLIMBERS, PLEASE RESPECT THAT. FA: Paul Westwood, 1991 | 20 | 6m | |||||
4 |
Portrait Of Rod
THIS SMALL WALL BELOW COWBOY JUNKIES IS CLOSED. AND IS VERY UNLIKELY TO EVER BE RE-OPENED TO CLIMBERS, PLEASE RESPECT THAT. FA: Paul Westwood, 1991 | 18 | 6m |
1.2.6. Orca Area 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.869533, 150.574168
description
This area comprises about 3 walls, with Orca taking on the prominant arete right of the big roof. The mossy slab has some newly bolted routes that will improve with traffic.The slab to the right is quite good and should be quite popular.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Ceiling Your Fate
Inside corner crack, going left through carrot bolt beneath roof to anchor. FA: Ant Prehn, 1991 | 24 | 20m | |||||
2 |
★★ Healing Your Hate
Start as for Ceiling Your Fate though go right at the roof and through the anchor of Orca. All trad, avoid the temptation to clip bolts of Orca. In the roof theres a block with jugs on top, i chose to avoid this because of unknown rock quality, climbing the seam below this. Make your own assessment FA: Max Gordon, 14 Jun 2020 | 24 | 20m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Orca
Starts on left side of arête. Straight up to finish. Optional friend no longer needed to protect start. FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, Craig Paul & Trudy Bretherton, 1991 | 18 | 25m, 8 | |||||
4 |
★★ Korca
Start on the right side of arête, finish by traversing left to the shared anchors with 'Maddest Hatter'. FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 18 | 24m, 7 | |||||
5 |
★★ The Money or the Box
FA: Trudy Bretherton & Giles Bradbury, 1990 | 19 | 25m, 6 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Left-hand Lichen / Mossy Climb LH
Left line of rings up the lichen covered slab. | 15 | 22m | |||||
7 |
★ Mossy Climb RHV / Righthand Lichen
Right line of rings up the lichen covered slab. Left handside also available. | 15 | 22m, 7 | |||||
8 |
★ Slap & Tickle
A top little route that deserves more attention, and takes on the obvious rounded arete. Finishes at single large U/staple. FA: Paula Simons / Mark Ashmore | 17 | 14m | |||||
9 |
★ Evil Spider
Up the wide crack, then right around small roof to ledge. Trad anchor then scramble off the top or walk carefully left to Lichen/Mossy Climb anchors. The middle is a bit runout without big cams (5+). If you do have big cams you could also try taking the crack through the roof, looks fun. FA: Josephine Roper, 2020 | 15 | 22m | |||||
10 |
★ Hairy Harriet
Start: Start at the obvious cleft about 15m to the right of the Orca wall. FA: Rod Young, 2005 | 16 | 14m, 8 | |||||
11 |
★ Snoop Dog
Warning Rock: Loose block at the top Enjoyable stroll, with a tricky start. Will be better with traffic. Start: Start 2m right of the previous route. FA: Rod Young, 2005 | 17 | 25m | |||||
12 |
★ LHV start to W.I.T.W
Traverse in for an easier route FA: Rod Young, 2005 | 16 | 17m | |||||
13 |
★ What In The World
FA: Rod Young, 2005 | 18 | 16m, 6 | |||||
14 |
★ Heathen
Another good fun doddle. Start: Start on the far right hand side of the wall. FA: Rod Young, 2005 | 18 | 25m, 9 |
1.2.7. Alley Wall 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.869759, 150.574133
description
An excellent vertical wall with a selection of very good routes. Very underrated.
approach
Up the alley before 'Vanderholics' wall.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Me
The cute little arete. Start on the ground below the ledge. Take care or stick clip high first bolt. FA: Paul Westwood, 1991 | 16 | 8m, 2 | |||||
2 |
★★ Smiling
Clip 1st bolt on Me (and that's it), then move right to gain obvious side pull feature thingo and up thru some techy moves. Continue into Suze when it gets easy. FA: Jason Lammers, 13 Sep 2014 | 22 | 16m | |||||
3 |
★ Suze
Left of SM. Tricky 1st move FA: Jason Lammers, 13 Sep 2014 | 18 | 14m | |||||
4 |
★ Slub Motion
Stay Direct. Once described as soft. Often considered reachy and difficult. You decide. FA: Mark Woodard, 1995 | 18 | 10m, 5 | |||||
5 |
★ Chully Bun
Up chimney, continue up as narrows. Can either set a trad belay, or continue up face and use lower-offs for Heathen around the arete to lower-off | 11 | 25m | |||||
6 |
★★ Tour Of Duty
Hidden Gem FA: Mark Woodard, 1995 | 19 | 14m, 5 | |||||
7 |
★★ Tinman
Probably 22 now that the boulder has rolled down the gully. FA: Rod Young, 1991 | 22 | 20m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Renovators Dream
Very good climbing, which makes you appreciate how average 'Killer Boas' really is. Superb friction. FA: Mark Woodard, 1996 | 22 | 20m, 8 | |||||
9 |
★★ Up the Alley
Another total classic which deserves more ascents. Rebolted 2008 Start: Start below the Ubolts, a few metres left of the big crack. FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1991 | 21 | 20m | |||||
10 |
★ V Lix The Cat
crimpy, just right and down the gully from Up the alley FA: Venus Kondos, 1996 | 23 | 15m | |||||
11 |
Alley Cat
FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn, 1991 | 15 | 20m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★ Bombtrack
Looks bad, but is actually quite good - in an adventurous way. Start: Start next to the path, just left of the mossy corner. FA: Rod Young, 2000 | 18 | 24m, 9 |
1.2.8. Vanderholics Wall 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.869960, 150.574146
description
A lovely black wall with a big cave in the middle of it. Contains a number of good route.
approach
Just to the left of butterfly wall, or just right aroudn the corner from the Alley wall.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Iggy Plop
Choss FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 2000 | 23 | 13m | |||||
2 | ★ David Blowfly | 22 | 11m | |||||
3 |
★ Wanker In A Whirlwind
Tricky start just right of arête. Up with a couple of committing moves to jugs. New bolts, new grade 2012. FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1990 | 23 | 14m | |||||
4 |
★ Skippy The Bush Kangaroo
A couple of random carrots that lead to no where. Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1991 | 23 | 10m | |||||
5 |
Skippy The Bush Kangaroo RHS / One Less Bitch
FA: Graeme Hill, 1991 | 22 | 10m | |||||
6 |
★ BushDoof
Up small corner for 3 bolts (take care clipping the 2nd) to rooflet. Over the rooflet on small holds. Continue up on easier ground to some funky moves on the arete left of FM. FA: Jason Lammers, 2012 | 24 | 20m | |||||
7 |
★★ Freak Magnet
Very thin start then consistent climbing up and through cave area, second crux is committing. Enjoy!!!! FA: Rod Young, 1994 | 22 | 20m, 9 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Vanderholics
Beaut sustained climbing. Start: Directly below the cave, on the left side of the obvious crack. Up the wall past delicate slab move to a big rest in the cave. Take a breath and head out the right side up the vertical wall on magic holds. FA: Ant Prehn, C Paul & Giles Bradbury, 1991 | 19 | 25m, 8 | |||||
9 |
★ Gina Hardface
FA: Derek Morton, 1997 | 18 | 15m, 6 | |||||
10 |
★ Cracker Jack
Major crack line splitting the face starting just right of 'Vanderholics' - a great trad route. Up crack for 10m to horizontal break, traverse right across 'Gina Hardface' and continue up corner crack above (ignoring the bolts). Rap off rings above 'Gina Hardface'. Medium to large cams. | 18 | 20m |
1.2.9. Butterfly Wall 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.870080, 150.574141
description
The most striking and impressive wall on the crag.
approach
Immediately right of 'Vanderholics' wall and below the carpark.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Berserk Plumbers
Line a couple of metres left of Butterfly Wall. Up thinly past a few bolts to the crux. The dyno isn't mandatory but the move is impossible to dog past without hauling a stick clip. Excellent route, up there with the other classics on this wall. FA: Mike Law, 1996 | 27 | 15m | |||||
2 |
★★★ Butterfly Wall
The original start is now generally superseded by BWD Start: Just right of the corner at a flake, as for BP. FA: Ant Prehn FFA: Daniel Elton, 1993 | 23 | 25m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Butterfly Wall Direct
A beautiful route on great rock. Start: 5 meters right of the corner - directly below the obvious butterfly feature high on the wall. FFA: Daniel Elton, 1993 | 24 | 20m | |||||
4 |
La Casa de las Flores
An old 90's project finally put to rest! Starts to the right of 'Butterfly Wall Direct' on the detached block. Up through a scabby section (glued rail), then sustained crimping and a fun fight to the finish. Set: Mikl Law FFA: matt hoschke, 11 Sep 2022 | 28 | 20m, 9 | |||||
5 |
★★★ No More Gaps
Tara Sutherland's 2002 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 30. FA: Steve Bullen, 1992 | 30 | 16m | |||||
6 |
★★★ Stone Roses
Fabulous, powerful and pumpy climbing up the amazing wall. Very hard for the grade. Used to be very easy for the grade before crucial holds were glued up for the FA of No More Gaps. The nasty mono became a duo tho' Start: Start below the obvious duo, which can just be reached off the boulder. FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1991 | 26 | 25m | |||||
7 |
★★★ Concrete Petunias
Awesome hard face climbing up a steep prow. Start 6m right of Butterfly Wall, the same as for Stone Roses. Tara Sutherland's mid-late 1990s ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade. FA: Steve Bullen, 1991 | 28 | 15m | |||||
8 |
Project (Concrete Petunias Direct Start)
Brackets on the blunt arete below Concrete Petunias. Looks absurdly hard. Even 20 years ago it was a futuristic open project. |
1.2.10. Gunbarrel Wall 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.870165, 150.574180
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Asta Lavista Baby
FA: Paul Westwood, 1993 | 25 | 10m | |||||
2 |
★★ Planet Mossvale
Rebolted 20-05-2006 FA: Garth Miller, 1991 | 18 | 28m, 10 | |||||
3 |
★★ Birdsville Track
FA: Rod Young, 1996 | 20 | 23m, 9 | |||||
4 |
★★ Diddy Kong Direct Start
Thin, crimpy and good technical climbing for the first three clips. Stick clip the first if your feet are a little unsure. FA: Rod Young, 1996 | 20 | 24m, 9 | |||||
5 |
★★ Diddy Kong
FA: Rod Young & Sue Young, 1996 | 18 | 24m, 8 | |||||
6 |
★★ Gun Barrel Highway
FA: Rod Young & Sue Young, 1992 | 19 | 25m, 10 | |||||
7 |
★ Zulu Dawn
FA: Derek Morton, 1997 | 22 | 25m | |||||
8 |
★★ Windy Shroomed Glaaaaasses
don't be silly it's been Done 10 Years ago it's Thompsons Point for gods sake | 14 | 33m, 3 |
1.2.11. The Very Nice Wall 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.870311, 150.574186
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Bumzek
2 hard cruxes FA: Michael Butzek, 1993 | 22 | 10m, 3 | |||||
2 |
★★ Pale Yellow Underwear
FA: Dave Filan, 1992 | 24 | 10m, 5 | |||||
3 |
★★ Stolen Property
Direct start to pale yellow underwear. FA: Steve Bullen, 1992 | 24 | 10m, 4 | |||||
4 |
★★ Drive Bye Directe
Two bolts add a direct start to the fantastic drive bye. Start in the letterbox and get ready for some postage! This direct start avoids the big rest. Set: George Broadfoot, 2013 | 28 | 4 | |||||
5 |
★★ Drive Bye
FA: Steve Bullen, 1992 | 27 | 11m, 4 | |||||
6 |
★ A Nice Offering
First 3 ascents done on gear. Now has ring bolts. There is a small - fist sized - rock that is loose above the roof. One day it will be loose enough to come out. Until then take a little care. Start: Climbs crack and peapod 4m left of AVNS. FA: M.Hunn | 18 | 10m, 3 | |||||
7 |
A Very Nice Open Project
Open Project. Like the rest of the routes on this wall, it needs a scrub after rain. About 25 ??????? | 12m, 4 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★ A Very Nice Sausage
A tough thin crux, but not a bad route. FA: Ant Prehn, 1990 | 26 | 10m | |||||
9 |
Very Meaty
FA: Steve Bullen, 1992 | 26 | 10m | |||||
10 |
★★★ Very Nice Cake
Great climbing which has always suffered from muddy runoff when it rains. Please brush the route when you are working it to keep the holds in good order. FA: Giles Bradbury, 1990 | 25 | 10m, 7 | |||||
11 |
★★ Killer Boas
A nice route - but why everyone thinks it is worth 3 stars we will never know. Start: Start to the right of the blunt arete on the right hand side of the wall where there is a big chimmney. FA: Andrew Bull & Tony Barton, 1991 | 22 | 10m | |||||
12 | Open Project | |||||||
13 |
Not Very Nice
The chimney - on trad. Rock quality and gear questionable until the last 10m FA: Neil Monteith, 2010 | 13 R | 40m | |||||
14 |
★★ Fattergram
so many moves for a micro-route. Classic FA: Mike Law, 1993 | 23 | 11m | |||||
15 |
★ Verve Noir
Up the sharp black arete a few meters right of Fattergram FA: Mike Law, 1994 | 24 | 15m | |||||
16 |
★ Big Bad Voodoo Daddy
FA: Mark Ashmore FA: Mark Ashmore, 1999 | 24 | 20m |
1.2.12. The Pocketed Wall 25 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.870644, 150.574096
description
When it comes to spooge, the Pocketed Wall is like the canary in the coalmine. Conditions here die a rapid spoogy death at the slightest hint of humidity, when other crags nearby remain perfectly climbable. As a result, either (a) you'll become a complete conditions snob and will bail the instant the dewpoint is over 6 degrees, or (b) you'll blithely persist ... and get massively spanked. But on the upside, the routes are great on a cool crisp day, and the Hustler roof routes are completely rainproof and spooge-proof so you can always get on those.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Murdoch the Horse Fucker
Hard and pumpy with a sting in the tail - classic Nowra. FA: Steve Barry, 1992 | 22 | 12m, 5 | |||||
2 |
★ Meaty Mesmo
FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992 | 22 | 10m | |||||
3 |
★★ Hide The Salami
From the ledge, pull onto the main face for a few crimpy moves then up past the slopey pockets to an exciting undercling finish! Start: Start on foot of pinnacle. 2m right of MTHF. Stick-clip first bolt. FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992 | 24 | 10m | |||||
4 |
★★ With Pigs Blood
FA: John Passlow, 1992 | 25 | 15m | |||||
5 |
★★ Mesmo Butts
Start in front of the dead tree. Up blunt arete for a few bolts then traverse left to finish up Hide The Salami. Grade restored for cultural preservation. FA: Graeme Hill, 1991 | 24 | 10m, 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Beef Curtains
Link of Mesmo Butts into Butts of Beef. FA: Steve Bullen, 1991 | 24 | 10m | |||||
7 |
★★ Butts Of Beef
FA: Steve Bullen, 1990 | 25 | 10m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Beef Cake
Clip the anchor for BOB then head out through the slightly sandy roof to an impressive arete. Blast up this and you're all done! Start: Start as for BOB FA: Simon Bell, 1998 | 27 | 20m, 11 | |||||
9 |
★★ Chuck Steak
FA: Steve Bullen, 1990 | 26 | 10m | |||||
Significant siteThe popular route Je Baise has been identified as having a significant site to local Aboriginal culture at the base of the cliff. Please stay off this route to show goodwill and help preserve access to the larger area of Thompson's Point. | ||||||||
12 |
★★ Fine Cuts
FA: Steve Bullen, 1990 | 25 | 10m | |||||
13 |
★ Nobody Told Me
FA: Graeme Hill, 1990 | 17 | 10m | |||||
14 |
★ Lick The Pig
FA: Mark Woodard, 1998 | 21 | 10m | |||||
15 |
★ We Do Okay
Easy start for 7m then crimp desperately to sloper. Finish with a pumo slightly left then right to anchor under roof. Finish as described added 2012. FA: Graeme Hill, 1990 | 24 | 10m, 4 | |||||
16 |
★★ Je Baise Ma Frangine
Upgraded to 21 since ring bolts and extension. FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1990 | 21 | 12m | |||||
17 |
★★ Electro Rooter
Rebolted 08-07-2006. FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1990 | 22 | 12m | |||||
18 |
★★★ Hustle The Love Muscle
Links Electro Rooter directly into the upper half of 'The Hustler'. The improbable moves through the very steep pocketed rock that links the two climbs are intense but wickedly good. The first ascent was achieved without the additional bolt placement in the link-up. The bolt was added a couple of days later to avoid the inevitable carnage that would occur as unsuccessful climbers slammed back into the wall. FA: Paul Meharg, 2006 | 25 | 24m | |||||
19 |
★★★ Muscle Hustler
Easily and often confused with The Hustler. The mega mega roof line that makes your neck hurt just to look at it. Looks improbable until you get up there and find out how big some of the holds are. Start on the very right hand side of the pocketed wall. Follow the permadraws left through the roof. Where they (and the chalk) continue up (The Hustler), this breaks left again (no permadraws!) through the top roof and up onto the amazing orange rock of the headwall. FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1991 | 26 | 35m | |||||
20 |
★★★ The Hustler
Now with permadraws from the roof to the top. But watch out for the just-too-short permadraw which pinches your rope hard against the sharpish main lip of the roof - BYO extender. This is an excellent option for rainy days - even if the Pocketed Wall is shut down by the spooge this route is unaffected. FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 24 | 28m | |||||
21 |
Wank Skunk
FA: Paul Westwood, 1993 | 26 | 6m | |||||
22 |
★★★ Rewriting History / Fuck Art, Lets Dance
Same start as Peacocks after second ring follow fixed brackets heading left. Anchors and abseil same as Peacocks. FA: Boyd Robinson, 2007 | 20 | 15m | |||||
23 |
★★ Peacocks
This is a rap-in route left of Picture This with new rap-in anchors to semi-hanging belay. If you are worried about run-outs then pack a #1 Wild Country friend and a blue zero. AWESOME Route!!!! FA: Marcus Loane & Boydo, 2007 | 21 | 15m | |||||
24 |
★★ Picture This
Optional friend. FA: Boyd Robinson, 1993 | 19 | 12m | |||||
25 |
★★★ Muscle Hustler 2nd pitch
FA: Ant Prehn, 1991 | 23 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
26 |
Cerin's Debut
Around the corner from the Hustlers. Most of the climb on the same block, the west facing wall, but you start with a scramble on a different South facing wall. High first bolt then run out to optional belay on the right corner of the west wall, but easy moves. Climb really starts once you're on that wall. Traverse flat left past Traditional Evolution (20) bolts to more central bolts. If you're comfortable you can skip the belay point to avoid a lot of drag, or go back and unclip it once you're into the next bolt. Then 45 degree angle left to next bolt, and straight up friendly enough holds to top. Fun little adventure. Bolts are good now. FA: Roy Fryer, Cerin McMillan & Bob McMillan, 1996 | 15 | 25m, 4 | |||||
27 |
★ Traditional Evolution
FA: Roy Fryer & Bob McMillan, 1998 | 20 | 25m |
1.2.13. Little Grease Cave 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.870950, 150.574035
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Mosquito Slap
A classic bit of exposure. Was once three stars when you caould hang by one arm from the chicken-head - only worth 1 star now that sombody snapped it off. Watch the rope length when lowering. Start: Start by walking up the track to the left of the little grease cave. FA: Chris van Der Reyt & Simon Bell, 1996 | 21 R | 30m | |||||
2 |
★★★ Narcosis
FA: Julian Saunders, 1996 | 30 | 10m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Slapping the narcoleptic
climb the first 2 bolts of narcosis, then bust right to the lip of slip, slop, slap. clip the bolt and finish up slip slop slap!! great fun! Start: as for narcosis FA: Vince Day, 2006 | 31 | 10m, 4 | |||||
4 |
★★ Baby Just Don't Bite It
FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992 | 28 | 11m | |||||
5 |
★★ Slip Slop Slap
A perfect boulder problem on a rope. Three moves to glory... slip, slop, slap. FA: Steve Bullen | 30 | 10m | |||||
6 |
Ram Rod
FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992 | 25 | 8m | |||||
7 |
★★ Young And Dumb / Young, Dumb And Full Of Cum
Starts up in cave above walking track, either scramble direct up corner or around from the start of The Little Grease cave climbs. Out roof to arete and up this to anchor shared with FIGJAM. FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992 | 25 | 15m | |||||
8 |
★★★ F.I.G.J.A.M
Climb the bottomless chimney with the aid of a horizontal fig , joining arette to lower off. Either start direct (unbolted) or scramble up to base on left. Take care of large loose block at first bolt. Quite possibly Nowras finest sport route. FFA: Jarrah, 2016 | 18 | 20m | |||||
9 |
★★ Pretty Vacant
FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1990 | 23 | 25m |
1.2.14. The Grease Cave 36 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.871062, 150.573977
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Inflatey Katey
Good fun. If you get the right beta, it feels more like 25. FA: John Passlow, 1992 | 26 | 12m | |||||
2 |
★★ Sex Kitten
FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1991 | 27 | 12m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Top One Thommo
This route is an absolute blast and a NSW classic. It climbs the longest line through the massive roof. Excellent. Start up the corner and slab on the left hand side of the Grease Cave. FA: Rob Lebreton, 1992 | 27 | 15m | |||||
4 |
★★ Thommo Slips It In
Links Top one Thommo into Slip It In. Apparently you traverse right out of TOT before its crux, and then finish up the redpoint crux of SII. | 28 | 20m | |||||
5 |
★★ Blowing On The Ceiling
FA: Dave Filan, 1992 | 26 | 12m | |||||
6 |
Pass The Tissues
FA: Garth Miller, 1994 | 29 | 8m | |||||
7 |
★★ Say You Don't Want It
A savage little number with a very hard crux. Great sequence! FA: Steve Bullen, 1994 | 29 | 9m | |||||
8 |
Say You Don't Want To Slip It In
FA: Garth Miller, 1994 | 30 | 17m | |||||
9 |
Slip It In
FA: Steve Bullen, 1991 | 29 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
★★ Caught In The Act
Climb Lost Weekends to jug break then around corner and follow slopey flake all the way. FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992 | 27 | 15m | |||||
11 |
★★ Lost Weekends
The tricky off angle arete, used to be 25. FA: Giles Bradbury & Ant Prehn, 1991 | 26 | 15m | |||||
12 |
Lust for Life
Link-up with good (but safe) air potential. Start as for Lost Weekends. FA: Simon Atkins, 1995 | 25 | 7m | |||||
13 |
★★ Lost Virginity
An old Wishart project. Start as for Lost Weekends then out the roof on the flake. FA: S.Gardner, 2006 | 28 | 20m | |||||
14 |
★★ Love Bug
FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992 | 27 | 10m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 |
★★ Sexy Is The Word
Relatively easy climbing to a desperate boulder problem crux (~V9). Most of the recent ascentionists use a different (easier) crux sequence to the original ascentionists and the grade might be coming down soon. FA: Rob Lebreton, 1992 | 31 | 10m | |||||
16 |
Sexy is the Word R2
Extension of "Sexy is the Word". FFA: Daniel Fisher | 32 | ||||||
17 |
Sexy Skin Trash
Link Up. Start up Sexy is the Word, cross though Skin to Skin and finish up White Trash. FA: Matt Adams, 2000 | 28 | 15m | |||||
18 |
★★★ Stamp Tramp
As for either WT or SITW. If beginning up WT, trend leftwards to join the traverse on Skin to Skin, get your ass up to the cave at the chain on top of SITW. From here wind the biceps up and punch out along the roof flake until a chain anchor around the lip. Could be the best roof climb in Australia. Awesome!!! FA: Zac Vertrees, 2007 NA: Jorge Diaz-Rullo, Sep 2022 | 32 | 16m | |||||
19 |
★★★ The Woman In White
White Trash into Tramp Stamp via the project bolts.Then just keep on trucking. Slightly harder version of Tramp Stamp original. FA: 22 Jul 2014 | 32 | ||||||
20 |
★★ Skin To Skin
2m right of SITW , rebolted May 2017. FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992 | 29 | 10m | |||||
21 |
★★ White Trash
FA: George Fieg, 1993 | 27 | 10m | |||||
22 |
★★ Vehicle Of Hate
A good fun boulder problem. The 'problem' is clipping all the bolts! A hard one to grade. FA: Dave Filan, 1993 | 28 | 8m | |||||
23 |
★★ Pulling On the Porcelain
FA: Paul Westwood, 1992 | 23 | 12m | |||||
24 |
★★ Enter Sandman
Galvanic corrosion=no thanks. FA: Julian Saunders & Simon Atkins, 1992 | 24 | 12m | |||||
25 |
★ Sentimental Hygiene
FA: Glenn Jones, 1999 | 23 | 25m | |||||
26 |
★★ Shufflepuff
A route every wannabe should climb. Not your average 21, but a worthy journey. FA: Mike Law, 1992 | 21 | 10m | |||||
27 |
Crimper
Take brackets. FA: Garth Miller & Paul Watkins, 1991 | 20 | 25m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
28 |
★ Bitter Lemon
Starts at the crack near the corner. Follow it, then finish on the arete. Short intro to foot jamming and laying back. FA: Sue Young & Catherine Eadie, 1991 | 17 | 6m | |||||
29 | ★ Sour Grapes | 15 | 8m | |||||
30 |
★★ Frig The Pig
A nice line with good climbing, but quite a tricky cruxy. Might be reachy for some. Up the left hand corner in the alcove. FA: Graeme Hill | 21 | 15m | |||||
31 |
★ Fuck The Duck
Interesting slabbing. This route should be everyones cup of tea as it takes no power or endurance just a bit of stick. So give it to it. Start: Start as for the previous route, but then go directly up the slab at half height. FA: Graeme Hill | 21 | 18m | |||||
32 |
★ Apology For Pleasure
FA: Mike Ellims, 1989 | 21 | 15m | |||||
33 |
Balls And All
A push over for the grade. Soft as slime. Start: On the wall just left of the arete. Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Graeme Hill | 23 | 12m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
34 |
Scabfest
A ripper of a climb. Ripping your finger nails off will be its legacy if you have the balls to try it. Short and a little stiff like the Japanese. Start: At little weakness in wall a few meters right of BwB arete FA: Graeme Hill, 1992 | 21 | 6m | |||||
35 |
★★ Bullwinkle
Start in the middle of the face at the shallow cave/indent, shares first bolt with Black Adder. Then divert by moving straight up for an awkward exit from the cave. Then move left and up for a slabby cruise. FA: Rod Young FA: Rod Young | 17 | 15m | |||||
36 |
★ Black Adder
Start in middle of face at shallow cave/indent, shares first bolt with Bullwinkle. Then exit following the line of bolts to the right and up. Lovely slabbing reminiscent of Turtle Wall. FA: Rod Young FA: Rod Young | 18 | 15m, 7 |
1.2.15. Betty Blue Area 32 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.871927, 150.574078
description
A great looking wall with a variety of good routes.
approach
30m past the grease cave - this is pretty much the last area before the wastelands.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Real Buggers Don't Die
Rebolted with a reshuffle. RAD ! FA: Graeme Hill, 1991 | 21 | 12m | |||||
2 |
★★ Broken And Barbed
FA: Dave Filan & David Haines, 1989 | 21 | 18m, 6 | |||||
3 |
★ Basically Stoned
Hard move guards the anchors. Rebolted 2012 Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Karl Schultz, 1993 | 23 | 10m | |||||
4 |
Instant Death
Dangerous protection. FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1991 | 25 | 20m | |||||
5 |
Roger That
The obvious sandy corner crack left of NASAS. Now sport bolted on rings. Route could also take natural gear. use anchors high to left to lower off. FA: David O'Donnell & Ryan Kelly, 2004 | 16 | 12m | |||||
6 |
★ Not As Steep As Some
Start: Be careful clipping the 2nd bolt. FA: Veronique Hill & Graeme Hill, 1992 | 20 | 8m | |||||
7 |
★ Petit Miam
FA: Veronique Hill & Graeme Hill, 1992 | 16 | 8m, 4 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
The Big Shlong
FA: George Fieg, 1993 | 27 | 20m | |||||
9 |
★★ The Big Kahoona
FA: Rob Lebreton, 1992 | 24 | 20m | |||||
10 |
The Big Wank
FA: Andrew Bull, 1996 | 26 | 20m | |||||
11 |
★ Sonny’s Slab
On the mossy boulder opposite Petit Miam. | 8 | 7m, 4 | |||||
12 |
★ Jugzilla pitch 1
Up wall to belay stance below roof. Start: Start 5m right of 'PM' FA: M Law | 22 | 10m | |||||
13 |
★★★ Jugzilla
From the belay head diagonally out left through the roof to a break. Traverse back right a little and up final head wall. Start: Start at the belay above 'JP1'. FA: Mike Law, 2003 | 27 | 22m | |||||
14 |
★★★ Funkenstein
Straight out roof, traverse left to rest then nice face climbing to finish with hands on top of cliff. Start: Start as for 'J'. FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003 | 26 | 25m | |||||
15 |
★★★ Speed Boat Wankers
Up the poorly protected slab onto fun sidepull features. Bring a bolt plate and a sling for before the roof. Headwall is excellent to a jug above drb anchor. FA: Tony Barton & Andrew Bull, 1991 | 23 | 25m | |||||
16 |
★★★ Sultans Of Swing (Linkup)
Maximises the climbing to be had on this fantastic wall. Extend your draws! ROUTE: Start up Shifting Sands and clip its last bolt but instead of pulling right onto the face, stay left and climb directly up to the first bolt of A Day At The Beast. From here, head left to join into Speed Boat Wankers for three bolts, THEN STEP LEFT AGAIN and finish at the anchor of Funkenstein. You may wish to finish at the Speed Boat Wanker anchor for a grade 24. ADVICE: The first bolt of A Day At The Beast should be equipped with an extra long runner (unless you like rope drag). You may wish to climb up to the Shifting Sands anchor then scoot left to preplace this protection. CLEANING: Can be done while getting lowered with some minor shenanigans and a re-direct (or re-thread) at the Shifting Sands anchor. There are numerous variations on this linkup but I assure you that this is the best one. | 25 | 28m | |||||
17 |
★★ Shifting Sands
From where ADATB steps right, climb straight up the flake/arete feature until the last bolt. Clip, take a deep breath, pull onto the face, and climb up to the ADATB anchor. Don't keep climbing up the left side of the flake/arete (after clipping the last bolt), this skips the crux. FA: Steve Bullen, 1992 | 21 | 15m, 5 | |||||
18 |
★★ A Day at the Beach
Up the slab towards the ledge with the obvious sandy cave feature. Stay on the outside of this, moving right to join into the amazing line of scoops and follow this until the last scoop. From here, move left to anchor shared with Shifting Sands. FA: Steve Bullen, 1992 | 21 | 15m, 6 | |||||
19 |
★★ Half Day At The Beach
Finish at last bolt of A Day At The Beach inside scoop. FA: S Bullen | 20 | ||||||
20 |
★★ A Day at the Beast
Having climbed 'ADATB' traverse left across the lip of the roof all the way to the far end. CAUTION: Back-climb the fucker . Start: Start as for 'ADATB'. FA: M Law, 2000 | 26 | 30m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
21 |
★ Vague Flake
Climb the funky flakes left of kicking dogs balls. Rebolted and extended 23/6/12 FA: Unknown, 2000 | 21 | 15m | |||||
22 |
Kicking Dogs Balls
FA: Veronique Hill & Graeme Hill, 1992 | 17 | 8m, 3 | |||||
23 |
★★ Silly Putty
much funk. Start up Kicking Dogs Balls and onwards to a double dragon move through the roof out right FA: Mike Law, 1995 | 24 | 20m | |||||
24 |
★★ Black Beddy
Clip first bolt on 'Betty Blue' and head left. Crank up on the crimpers to the final throw making sure to take a few whips for the camera along the way! Start: Start at 'Betty Blue' FA: Steve Bullen, 1991 | 23 | 8m, 3 | |||||
25 |
★★★ Betty Blue
Warning Rock: Loose flake A very appealing wall. One of the most enjoyable routes at its grade in 'Nowra'. Start: Start a few meters right of 'Black Beddy'. FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1991 | 24 | 20m, 6 | |||||
26 |
★★ Tickled Pink
Straight up the groove, then slightly left and up to a great jug rest. Recover and fire out the airy crux. Start: Start 2m left of SL at slight groove. New anchor 23/6/2012 FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992 | 25 | 10m, 4 | |||||
27 |
★★ Tickled Pink Potty Mouth Princess
Extension of 'TP'. FA: Mitch Warren | 27 | 18m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
28 |
★★★ Still Life
Classic 'Nowra' arete - which is hard and pumpy. Start: Start at the obvious arete to the right of 'TP'. Some people do an easier start on the face a few metres left of the arete proper. FA: Giles Bradbury & Ant Prehn, 1990 | 23 | 10m, 4 | |||||
29 |
★★★ Still Life With Chalk Bag
An absolute ripper of a climb and totally different to the typical 'Nowra' power mutant hard stuff. Start: Start on ledge above 'SL' FA: Giles Bradbury, 1992 | 26 | 20m | |||||
30 |
★ Secret Womans Business
Climb the black slab around the arete right of 'SL' FA: L Wishart | 27 | 20m | |||||
31 |
Exfoliator
4 RB's to lower off. Start: Wall 5m right of 'SL' FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003 | 18 | 10m | |||||
32 |
Girl Finger
Start: Start 3m right of 'E'. FA: J.Tam, 2004 | 19 | 10m |
1.2.16. The Wastelands 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.873110, 150.574478
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Torrone Molle
Still there, just not that easy to access with the scrub in the way. About 50m left of Ryobicide buttress. Dirty black wall with a couple of carrots, a ring, and then a nice long runout to nowhere. FA: Sue Young & Catherine Eadie, 1991 | 12 | 15m, 3 | |||||
2 |
Body Abuse
FA: Rod Young, Mike Law-Smith & Stewart Wyithe, 1991 | 22 | 8m | |||||
3 |
Screaming Grahams
FA: Rod Young & Mike Law-Smith, 1991 | 21 | 20m | |||||
4 |
Unknown
Bulges. Route information needed. | |||||||
5 |
★ Gluten Free But Not Intolerant
Starts 10m left of Ryobocide. Up crack and then slab. FA: M Loan & Tim Booth, 2016 | 18 | 16m, 5 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Ryobicide
FHs up the left hand arete. FA: Rod Young, 1991 | 23 | 20m, 7 | |||||
7 |
★ Moshpit
4m right of R. Up, then back lefwards and up to anchors. FA: Rod Young | 17 | 15m, 5 | |||||
8 |
★★ Lucy Can't Dance
Takes the line up the middle of a 20m wide, slabby pillar. Starts climbing the lefthand flakes of a cave. Start is same as MoshPit, but straight up. FA: Rod Young | 18 | 22m, 8 | |||||
9 |
★ Dancing In The Garden
The blunt RH arete FA: Sue Young, 1991 | 18 | 22m | |||||
10 |
★★ Breaka My Pants
A little sandy and mossy will improve with ascents. Start: Just right from DITG on wall. FA: G Hill, 2000 | 20 | 15m | |||||
11 |
★★ Raiders Of The Lost Arse
A classic! What more can be said. As you may be aware to attempt this breath taking technical masterpiece you will need to climb solid 20. Start: Next right line of bolts. FA: G Hill | 20 | 12m | |||||
12 |
★ Vibratory
Needs none. Where do i get these names from. Climb it for the classic name. Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. Start: To the right of ROTLA. FA: G Hill | 20 | 10m | |||||
13 |
★ Roger the Coger
Left of RtD. Great ! FA: F Mark, 2000 | 19/20 | 10m | |||||
14 |
★★ Roger the Doger
In the gully right of RtC FA: F Mark, 2000 | 20 | 10m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 |
★ Dr. Livingstone, I presume.
Start behind the big tree to the left of the cave. Up through the jugs traversing right. Will improve with traffic. FA: Matthew Tranter, 22 May 2016 | 18 | 18m, 6 | |||||
16 |
★ Alien Probe
The orginal climb here. Start at the black streak under the cave up high. Move right to the unlikely face climbing on the orange streak, up this to anchors. FA: Graeme Hill, 1998 | 23 | 15m, 6 | |||||
17 |
★★ Buba Cool
Hidden gem, up the back of the wastelands. Start at the little overlap 3m right of Alien Probe. Up trending left to blind seam/crack then straight up to anchors. Hard to put the draw on the 3rd bolt. Otherwise Excellent. FA: Veronique Hill | 22 | 15m, 5 | |||||
18 |
Short Memory
15m right of BC at right hand end of this wall FA: veronique Hill | 20 | 6m | |||||
19 |
Sticky Beak
R of SM. Hard Start FA: G Hill | 20 | 6m | |||||
20 |
Oofti
The most right route on the wall. Tricky moves, but eases off at 2nd bolt. FA: Veronique Hill | 20 | 6m |
1.2.17. Vine Wall 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.873685, 150.574159
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Fat Marks Arete
Up in the fern garden. Looks hard and junk with stupid bolt placements. FA: Fat Mark | 17 | 6m | |||||
2 |
Read My Lips
FA: Veronique Hill, 1999 | 17 | 6m | |||||
3 |
★ Mr Butt Gets A Date
Very hard for the grade (was 18). Left of orange streak and rooflet. Hard start, gets easier the higher you get. FA: Mark Woodard, 1999 | 21 | 15m | |||||
4 |
★ Orly
Hard traverse in from way left, then up right of the orange streak. FA: Veronique Hill, 1999 | 22 | 12m | |||||
5 |
★ Scream Machine
Start below flake. FA: Mark Woodard, 1999 | 21 | 10m | |||||
6 |
★★ Arse Master
Totally underated. Great fun climbing up the slopey scoops. FA: Mark Woodard, 1999 | 23 | 16m | |||||
7 |
Sperm Burger
Climb up right side of cave to pocket and side pulls, hard moves lead to good rest. Battle up the final slimper headwall to glory. FA: G Hill Fat Mark | 21 | 21m | |||||
8 |
Sweety Goddess
Sweety your a goddess! Heard one day at 'The Freezer' when two women climbers were complaining to each other about the names of 'Nowra' Climbs. FA: Graeme Hill | 24 | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★★ Psychic Anal Breathing
A great line (with a bit of a kink). Some quite hard long moves. FA: Graeme Hill | 25 | 20m | |||||
10 |
Marche Ou Creve
Start on right side of cavey thing. FA: Graeme Hill, 1999 | 24 | 20m | |||||
11 |
Shoulder Wreckin Slope Move Open Project
Up start of chunk then the line of bolts. Hard move low down followed by just hard moves the rest of the way. probably 26 as i could do the moves. Got my shoulder operated on after this one. Set: Graeme Hill, 1999 | |||||||
12 |
★★★ Chunk To Chunky
Some consider it to be the best climb at the grade at TP. A strenuous start (consider sling on 2nd bolt to avoid drag), to cave for rest, then straight up the awesome wall. FA: Graeme Hill, 1998 | 24 | 25m | |||||
13 |
★★ Funk To Funky
FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn, 1994 | 23 | 25m | |||||
14 |
★★★ Spank The Donkey
Totally cool route through steep territory. Great value. Start: Start on the far right edge of the wall by stepping onto the pocketed wall. FA: Graeme Hill, 1999 | 24 | 22m | |||||
15 |
★★ Donkey Dong
Easier finish of Spank the Donkey. Good juggy steep climbing the whole way. Climb StD to 6th bolt and rest stance in small cave. Go straight up on the right side of the arête on mega jugs and easy wall to finish. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 22 | 20m, 10 | |||||
16 |
★ McFrys
Bring some slings for the top as there are no lower off anchors FA: Rob Fryer, Bob McMillan & Cerin McMillan, 1998 | 19 | 30m | |||||
17 |
★ Crapits
Short line of bolts to ledge. Junk ! FA: Mark Woodard, 1999 | 20 | 6m |
1.2.18. The Fossil Cave 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.873985, 150.573920
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Feisty Little Thing
Start: Just left of rabbit trap on small pockets and edges. FA: Little Graham, 2000 | 29 | 15m | |||||
2 |
★ Bubba The Love Sponge
Combo of great fun and varied climbs! Bubba the love sponge: Start on top of pointed rock and move up and then across with hand in the crack. Then move out and around lip and up on face, with stemming options behind. This climb ends on a big u bolt. From here with a long enough rope (I did with 80m, 60m may do it) you can continue onto Dino Club without too much rope drag, doing the 2 climbs as 1. Or do as a multi pitch. Dino Club: Dino club is an easy fun juggy reward after the somewhat scary bubba. It would be crazy not to do both. The end bolt though is just a normal bolt, without a second anchor bolt which is weird. Either top out or come back down as normal. FA: Mark Woodard, 1999 | 17 | 20m | |||||
3 |
★★ Dinosaur Club
Combo of great fun and varied climbs! Bubba the love sponge: Start on top of pointed rock and move up and then across with hand in the crack. Then move out and around lip and up on face, with stemming options behind. This climb ends on a big u bolt. From here with a long enough rope (I did with 80m, 60m may do it) you can continue onto Dino Club without too much rope drag, doing the 2 climbs as 1. Dino Club: Dino club is an easy fun juggy reward after the somewhat scary bubba. It would be crazy not to do both. The end bolt though is just a normal bolt, without a second anchor bolt which is weird. Either top out or come back down as normal. FA: Sue Young, 1998 | 16 | 20m | |||||
4 |
★★ Rabbit Trap
The roof of roofs this end of nowra. Jugs the whole way but getting between them is the trick. Finish out left at the the chain not the new anchors. FA: Colin Berry, 1998 | 25 | 12m | |||||
5 |
★★ Jurassic Pump
Another punchy roof classic. Take care climbing and back jumping, there is a decent gap between the fourth and fifth bolt. FA: Rod Young, 1998 | 26 | 10m, 7 | |||||
6 |
★★ Hip Hip Hooray
A rap in affair above JP. Sweet easy exposed climbing : FA: Rick Phillips & Patricia Nutter, 2013 | 18 | 20m | |||||
7 |
The Burden
Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: G Hill | 17 | 20m | |||||
8 |
★★ Cromagnon
Start in the corner on the flake, step up to the crack and powerfully traverse your way back out to the arete, grovel your way around the roof and blast up the main face to the top. FA: Rod Young & Alistair Fogg, 1999 | 19 | 22m | |||||
9 |
★ Mungo
FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 20 | 22m | |||||
10 |
★ Mungo Direct
Grade 21 seems doubtful. Start: Direct start to 'Mungo'. FA: Graeme Hill | 21 | 22m |
1.2.19. Sloth Area 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.874231, 150.573881
description
Heaps of good easier routes around the sloth pinnacle.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Diprotodon
Starts up Rootasaurus Rex and then takes the crack and wall on the left. FA: Rod Young, 1998 | 21 | 22m | |||||
2 |
★★ Rootasaurus Rex
FA: Mark Woodard, 1999 | 20 | 20m | |||||
3 |
★★ The Other White Meat
Sustained face climbing! Crimp your way up the wall tending slightly to the left to the crux at 2/3s height. Take care getting to the anchors. Start: Start just by big tree. FA: Graeme Hill | 22 | 12m | |||||
4 |
★★ Itsablue
Start 7m right of the Fossil Cave directly behind the 2nd large Blue Gum. Pull up hard and step right with care before good climbing to finishing jugs. FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994 | 19 | 18m, 6 | |||||
5 |
★ 12" Release
Was way mossy when first climbed as the winges on the neighbouring climbs didn't like getting covered in brush leavings. Will clean up after fifty or sixty deserving ascents. Start: As for Itsa. FA: G Hill FA: not known; G Hill This is 12" Release | 19 | 22m | |||||
6 |
★ Brown Bear
Hard start (stick clip the 2nd bolt if your not solid) that leads into nice wall climbing with a bit of a move at the bulge. FA: Jason Lammers, 2013 | 22 | 20m | |||||
7 |
★ Brown Track
Up Sidetrack for 2 bolts then move left past another bolt and then into BB. With a less cranky start, it will probably be more popular than BB. FA: Jason Lammers, 2013 | 20 | 20m | |||||
8 |
★ Brown Sides
Brown Bear into Sidetrack. First 3 bolts of Brown bear before traversing into Sidetrack and finish as for it. | 22 | 20m | |||||
9 |
★★ Sidetrack
A classic easy 20 FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994 | 20 | 18m, 7 | |||||
10 |
★★ Backtrack
Bit harder than Sidetrack, but just as good ! FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994 | 20 | 18m | |||||
11 |
★ Porn Dog
not even a 19 FA: Graeme Hill, 1998 | 18 | 23m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★★ Everything But The Wasp
The left route FA: John Koster, 1997 | 18 | 25m | |||||
13 |
★★ Resurrection of Rick Roller
Warning Fixed Gear: Lower old chains The direct line between Sloth and EbtW, goes all the way to the top of the cliff. Watch that rope !! FA: Rick Phillips & Jason Lammers, 2012 | 18 | 30m, 10 | |||||
14 |
★★ Sloth
The right route FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994 | 16 | 23m, 8 | |||||
15 |
10 News First
Trad start to Sloth. Head up the crack in the ramp with good pro, 2 metres right of Sloth to the first bolt on the headwall of Sloth and finish at Sloth anchors. FA: Simon Vaughan, 16 Feb 2020 | 16 | 23m | |||||
16 |
★★ The Handcrack
Steep big hand crack from top of the pedestal, gradually widening up the slab and through the broken caves above. Top out and walk off or stop at Couch Potato anchor. FA: Unknown, 1994 | 17 | 30m | |||||
17 |
★ Couch Potato
Start 5m right of “Sloth” on top of the massive flake. Quite stiff for the grade. FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994 | 16 | 20m, 8 | |||||
18 |
B.J's Retirement Plan
FA: Graeme Hill, 1999 | 19 | 10m | |||||
19 |
★ Belgium Game
Right most route on this wall. Dont fall off clipping the 3rd bolt. Better than its neighbour.. FA: G Hill, 2000 | 18 | 10m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Around the corner there is some more routes. Three Bloody Roofs and Nowra-cised are a good double. | ||||||||
21 |
★ Nowra-cised
Left of 3BR. Ride the flake with a big move after the 2nd bolt. Rad !! FA: Jason Lammers & Rick Phillips, 2012 | 22 | 10m, 3 | |||||
22 |
★ Three Bloody Roofs
FA: John Koster, 1999 | 20 | 10m, 4 |
1.2.20. Lizard Block 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.874664, 150.573775
approach
The next sector just past the Sloth area.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Lounge Lizard
Start in the corner, behind the tree... do not lean on the tree.. it bends ! FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994 | 14 | 15m, 5 | |||||
2 |
★ Lazy Lizard
Up Incepterkong, and when it goes left keep going straight past a couple more bolts to anchor. FA: Jason Lammers, 6 Jul 2014 | 18 | 15m, 5 | |||||
3 |
★★ Incepterkong
Starts inbetween Lounge Lizard and Gecko. At second bolt the crack for Gecko can be used. Use anchor for Lounge Lizard as 5th bolt then climb sraight up steep head wall to the top. FA: Jake Noblett, 2013 | 23 | 25m, 10 | |||||
4 |
★ Gecko
Warning Fixed Gear: Anchor bolt wearing 3m right of LL. Up through the cave and follow cracks/ledges FA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994 | 15 | 16m, 4 | |||||
5 |
★ Go Anna
Just right of Gecko. FA: Rick Phillips, 6 Jul 2014 | 18 | 16m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Blue Steel
Starts 20 mtrs right of lounge lizard.. Hard parts done by mid height but beware things that look like holds may vary in size... FA: Rick phillips & Gilles Bonin | 18 | 15m, 5 | |||||
7 |
★★ Geoff
Starts just right of Blue Steel. Up and traverse right a bit where it gets thin. The rest is a little sandy but not at all hard. Will never clean up as will never get enough ascents. FA: G Hill, 1 Apr 2015 | 21 | 18m, 9 | |||||
8 |
★★ You wish jellyfish
Starts 50 mtrs right or south of blue steel at the left hand corner of cave.. Climb steeply using the cave and wall until forced out onto the face.. Super interesting climb with lots of varied moves FA: Rick Phillips & Lous Blundell | 21 | 28m, 12 | |||||
9 |
★ Diplomatic Immunity
Surprisingly easy start off the block, heave up under the cave then easily out right to a tricky move to gain the long head wall. FA: Rick Phillips & Lous Blundell, 2 Aug 2014 | 20 | 27m | |||||
10 |
★★ Taco Kisses
Starts just right of the big cave, just before the boulders at the end of wall. Travers left past the cracks and up the face. One bolt halfway up is a bit misplaced to the right. Sorry for that! FFA: Steven Griffiths, 2014 | 18 | 28m, 12 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★ Howling at Hockey
Keep walking past the cave and climb the boulders and look for the line of bolts up the arete Crimp like a billygoat for a few bolts and your safe... Stick clip the first bolt to save your ankles! FA: Rick Phillips & Lous Blundell | 21 | 20m | |||||
12 |
★ Viva la KP
Pull down for a few moves just left of small tree on the blunt arete. FA: Jason Lammers & Kent Paterson, 6 Jul 2014 | 19 | 20m | |||||
13 |
★★ Heil Von Abbott
Located around the corner in the middle of south facing wall... Start on obvious jug and enjoy it as its the only one! FA: Rick Phillips & Lous Blundell | 19 | 20m | |||||
14 |
★★ Winter Solstice
Shared start then right FA: Jason Lammers, 21 Jun 2014 | 22 | 15m, 5 | |||||
15 |
★★ Carnivaughan
On from the start, pinches, pockets and small pull downs, good feet get you through. Nice finger buckets up high. FA: Simon Vaughan, 3 Jul 2014 | 23 | 15m, 6 | |||||
16 |
★★ Electronic Blower
First 2 bolts on Carnivaughan, then move rightwards and up the rad features. FA: Jason Lammers, 23 Jul 2014 | 20 | 16m, 5 | |||||
17 |
★ The Hourglass
Shares the first bolt with 'Gorilla Gardening' It starts at the arete, then slightly to the left and up. Only top anchor at the moment, but bolts will follow. Set: Steven Griffiths, 2014 | 19 | 12m | |||||
18 |
★★ Gorilla Gardening / Three Little Pigs
It shares the first bolt with 'The Hourglass'. Up the arete, then slightly right through the green section to the top. Bolted so that you can top out and enjoy the beautiful sunset. This route has awesome moves and is very diverse! (Pockets, Laybacks, Pinches, Grimps, you name it!) Please don't let it grow over again. Climb it, buddies! FFA: Steven Griffiths, 2014 | 21 | 15m, 6 | |||||
19 |
In The Flesh
Still an unbolted crack. Grab your rack and place some dangling bits of gizmos before the bolters wreck it. FA: Boyd, Mally & George | 17 | 8m |
1.2.21. Carpark Canyon 13 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.874778, 150.573997
description
From the Carpark above Sloth area walk down the left side gully and in to the "Canyon style cliffs" Sheltered from the strong westerlies and getting sun at most times of the day offering short climbing 10-15 metres generally on vertical faces or slabs.. Will be terrible in summer due to the mossie factor
1.2.21.1. Black Slabbath 6 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.874882, 150.574019
description
The obvious black slabs on your left
|
1.2.21.2. Western Walls 7 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.874664, 150.573886
description
The steeper side... Shade after midday
|
1.2.22. Midnight Paddlers Boulders 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Deep water soloing
Lat / Long: -34.869867, 150.572934
summary
Deep water soloing even at low tide
description
The two large boulders rising vertically from the river. The one with the power line warning signs is Midnight Paddlers and the one to the left is Doberlacky. Both faces pointing towards the center of the river have plenty of water beneath them, though beware of any slabby sections which you may collect on the way down.
S0 – Safe Solo. This has an area of deep water.
S1 – Pretty safe. Watch out for boulders and water depths.
S2 – Not quite safe. Recommended during high tide. Pick a landing spot carefully.
S3 – Dangerous. You will fall on shallow water which will make your fall painful.
approach
Access is via boat/canoe (If you're staying at the Shoalhaven Ski Park you can borrow one from there). Step straight onto the boulders and off you go! The safest way down from both boulders is a good hefty jump into the water.
where to stay
The best spot is the Shoalhaven Ski Park, as climbers get access to canoes for free.
1.2.22.1. Dooberlacky 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.869801, 150.572936
description
The boulder to the left of Midnight Paddlers boulder. The problems are on the high arete facing the the river.
approach
By boat is recommended so you have dry shoes.
|
1.2.22.2. Midnight Paddlers Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.869975, 150.572886
description
The large boulder opposite Shoalhaven Ski Caravan Park with the power line warning signs.
approach
I'm on a boat.
|
1.3. The Grotto Cliffline 292 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.865416, 150.577030
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
17 |
Open Project (A)
Yes you can have it the nice looking wall thing which is just about impossible at 25. FA: Fill In Your Name, 2000 |
1.3.1. Hogwarts 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.867473, 150.567597
description
A lovely little crag on the walking track down to PC. It currently has 5 easier routes. All are well bolted and fun.
approach
Park at the end of Rock Hill Road in North Nowra in a gravel parking area on the left. Walk straight ahead into the bush at the end of the street and head left and follow the signs to lower Grotto. Once you get to the bottom and start walking left towards PC you'll see the cliff up to your left. Just make your way up to it anyway you can.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ The Devious Crack of Sirius Black
Start just left of Wingardium Leviosa. Up the crack line FA: P.Rattenbury, 2011 | 22 | 12m | |||||
2 |
★ Wingardium Leviosa
Start under the roof on the left side of the crag. Traverse out the roof and once on the headwall follow the left line of bolts FA: M LeBreton, 2011 | 13 | 12m | |||||
3 |
★ Expelliarmus
Same start as Wingardium Leviosa but at the headwall follow the right set of bolts. FA: M LeBreton, 2011 | 14 | 12m | |||||
4 |
★ The Golden Snitch
FA: 2011 | 20 | 12m | |||||
5 |
★ Sirius Black
Start 1m right of the corner. Straight up to the left line of scoops. FA: 2011 | 15 | 12m, 5 | |||||
6 |
★★ Is Graeme Hill Severus Snape?
Pretty epic moves at the start and bomber rock on the headwall! Starts in the obvious scoop right of the 15. Stick clip first bolt and launch out the steepest part of the bulge. Shares anchor with the 15. FA: Alec Landstra & Match, 24 Aug 2020 | 21 | 12m |
1.3.2. P.C. 42 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.865056, 150.569030
description
PC stands for 'Project Crag' or 'Planet C**k'. Whatever the name, this crag contains some of the hardest and most popular (difficult) routes at Nowra, including one of the hardest, White Ladder 34. Though the crag is dusty and can sometimes be damp or seeping the routes are mostly excellent and varied. Avoid altogether in high humidity or after/during rain. Summer is a bad idea in general even though it gets all day shade. Bring a rope tarp - it's a dusty place.
approach
Park at 240 Yurunga Drive, North Nowra. Walk to the lookout, head around the right hand side of the fence and follow it left across a thin foot traverse. Descend sketchy rungs and rock ledges for 20m to base of cliff. This descent is not suitable for kids, non-climbers or dogs. Some of the rungs are feeling a bit loose - take care! There is a longer, but much safer descent, further south. Park at 9 Murrell Place, North Nowra and walk down tourist track and follow it aprox 400m north along river bank to base of crag.
descent notes
All routes have lower-offs and no route is higher than 20m.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Mr Mojo
FA: George Fieg, 1993 | 24 | 10m | |||||
2 |
★★ Squeeze The Trigger
Impressive roof route in the cave just south of the descent rungs. Has been rebolted recently. FA: Rob Lebreton, 1993 | 25 | 15m | |||||
3 |
★ Blue Vein Custard Chucker
A classic Nowra name. The route however has been mostly reclaimed by nature. FA: Peter Wriggly & Steve Barry, 1991 | 21 | 15m | |||||
4 |
★★ Big, Thick And Powerful
Start to the left of Fukdifino and join this route at the ledge. FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1993 | 28 | 15m | |||||
5 |
★★ Fukdifino / Fucked If I Know
The only 'easy' route at the crag, and a good warm-up. This is the well-chalked overhung corner crack at the far left end of the cliff. Some of the bolts on this route are looking worse for wear - best not to lob on them all day. The anchors are a bit of a squeeze to get your rope and a biner through as well. FA: Paul Westwood, 1991 | 22 | 15m | |||||
6 | PC Project 1 | |||||||
7 |
Done Walker
Start in the tree. FA: Sharik Walker, 2010 | 26 | 12m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★ Kamikaze Critter
FA: Ryan Sklenica | 31/32 | ||||||
9 |
★★ The Divine Wind
FA: Ryan Sklenica | 32 | ||||||
10 | PC Project 3 | |||||||
11 |
★★★ Attack Mode
The best bits of White Ladder. Historic, the first 32 climbed in Australia by an Australian. FA: Rob Lebreton, 1994 NA: Rose Weller, Jun 2021 | 32 | 9m | |||||
12 |
★★★ White Ladder
Short but desperately powerful climbing. Excellent. Originally climbed as Attack Mode to the fixed biner and given grade 32. Start at the huge handlebar jug right of the massive fallen boulder. FA: Chris Webb | 34 | 13m | |||||
13 |
★★★ The White Ladder / White Ladder Extension
Climb original White Ladder then continue via one more boulder problem to the ledge. | 34 | 17m | |||||
14 |
★★★ Direct Attack
Start Attack mode but go direct. FA: Ryan Sklenica | 33/34 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 | PC Project 5 | |||||||
16 |
★★ Spineless
FA: Ryan Sklenica | 30 | ||||||
17 |
★★★ Dude Food
FA: Rob Lebreton, 1991 | 29 | 11m | |||||
18 |
★★ Dedicated to Dude
A long link-up worthy of mention as it covers some amazing country. Start up Dude Food, to go through Vogue and up Church Of Christ to anchors. Head right across Turn Your Eyes Insane to finish up Hopelessly Devoted To You anchors. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2010 | 31 | 20m | |||||
19 |
★★ Vogue
Super bouldery roof. The original flake in the roof broke and has now been replaced by a drilled pocket. FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992 | 29 | 12m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
20 |
★★★ Church Of Christ
Start with a big throw around the lip heading left past rings. Gather your thoughts, bust through the crux and keep trucking to the end. FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1991 | 26 | 15m | |||||
21 |
★★★ Turn Your Eyes Insane
Bang out the steep start, break right and keep pumping. FA: Dave Filan, 1991 | 26 | 16m | |||||
22 |
★★ Hopelessly Devoted To You
FA: Rob Lebreton, 1996 | 29 | 18m | |||||
23 |
Thank You, Come Again
3 bolt boulder problem. Soft if you can reach the big pocket. FA: Paul Westwood, 1996 | 25 | 8m | |||||
24 |
★★★ Hard Candy
A pocket boulder gem. Tricky and funky start getting easier leading up to the sand pit. Get a good rest then knuckle down through and couple big moves and a wicked stretchy pocket boulder top. FA: Steve Bullen, 1991 | 27 | 18m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
25 |
★★ Shocked
Out small roof and up lovely face to glory. FA: Rob Lebreton, 1992 | 26 | 18m | |||||
26 |
Super Shocked
The extension to Shocked. No anchor so jump off. FA: Rob Lebreton, 1997 | 27 | 21m | |||||
27 |
★★ Gay Porn is Art
A bouldery start leads to some excellent moves in steepy, pumpy territory. Save some for the top. If it's all too hard clip the anchors on Bachelor's Ball, but for the full experience tick go all the way. Set: Luke, 2012 FA: Danny Ewald, 7 Mar 2015 | 26 | 20m, 11 | |||||
28 |
★★ Bachelor's Ball
Starts as for Bachelor Busted Balling Bimbo but breaks left at mid height and and finishes above the crux on Shocked. Was 24 for years but most people feel it's fair at 25. FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1992 | 25 | 18m | |||||
29 |
★★ Bachelor Busted Balling Bimbo
The hardest of the three 25s in this section. Climb first two bolts of BB, then go direct up the wall just left of Trigga. FA: Paul Westwood, 1996 | 25 | 20m | |||||
30 |
★★★ Escape From the Drilling Fields
Cue '90s era gangsta rap. Originally given a different name, the first ascentionist has requested that it now be known by this name. Excellent steep climbing, and the classic Nowra 25. Start where the undercut roof touches the ground (at a ring bolt). FA: Andrew Bull, 1992 | 25 | 20m | |||||
31 |
★★★ Brother
Don't go getting offended by the route name, once again this was comment on what was happening in society (Black Death in Custody) when the routes were climbed and the music being listened to. Continuing the tradition of excellent 28's at Nowra. Backup anchor added in 2004. Start: Start 2m to the right of EFTDF. The undercling at the crux snapped off around 2012-13, but there's still a sequence. FA: George Fieg, 1995 | 28 | 17m | |||||
32 |
★★★ Meet The G
Start just right of Brother in a Body Bag. A series of boulder problems that get harder the higher you get. Finish at anchors below rooflet. | 28 | 17m | |||||
33 |
★★ Meet the G that Killed Me
The original line. From Meet The G anchors, climb around rooflet onto upper face to high anchor. FA: Chris Webb | 31 | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
34 |
★★ The Master Cylinder
The line just to the right of Meet The G. Fun climbing via some sandy sections to a heartbreaker ending. Conditions help. Previously known by another name. The first ascentionist has requested that the route be known by the original name given to it by the equipper. FA: Nathan Hoette | 30 | 20m | |||||
35 |
★ Super Geek
FA: Julie Anderson, 1997 | 25 | 10m | |||||
36 |
★ Pauls With A Permit
FA: Julian Saunders, 1996 | 25 | 10m | |||||
37 |
★★ Bullet With Butterfly Wings
FA: Julie Anderson, 1996 | 25 | 12m | |||||
38 |
★ Super Weak
FA: Unknown, 2000 | 25 | 10m, 7 | |||||
39 |
★ Kattack Mode
FA: Brian Rattenbury, 1997 | 24 | 10m | |||||
40 |
Don't Tell the Priest, but it's a Boy
FA: Brian Rattenbury, 1996 | 26 | 15m | |||||
41 |
No Notice
FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1993 | 26 | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
42 |
Sunroom Wanker
FA: Mark Weiser, 1996 | 23 | 20m |
1.3.3. Powerlines Area 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.862627, 150.575245
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ X-Ray Ted
Beware loose rock in the flake & choss on the runout headwall. FA: Michael Fawcett, 1999 | 20 | 26m, 6 | |||||
2 |
★ Project / Sportclimbers Can't Jam
Surely someone has done this, it looks pretty straight forward. | |||||||
3 |
★ Pick The Nose
FA: John Koster, 1999 | 19 | 12m |
1.3.4. The Colosseum 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.862819, 150.576607
history
The first three routes here adopted the crag name and theme of "Ken'n'Barbie Land", but unfortunately this got ignored by subsequent developers.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Project (A)
One of the 'unknown' project routes, located just West of The Colosseum main routes. | 6 | ||||||
2 |
★ Slimey Ken's Knob
The first route here. FA: Will Monks, Andrew Duckworth & Peter Monks, 1999 | 22 | 9m, 3 | |||||
3 |
★ Barbie's Bitchin'
FA: Andrew Duckworth, 1999 | 22 | 9m, 3 | |||||
4 |
Teflon Barbie
Giles Bradbury was called in to free either this line or Seven Eleven at grade 25 in mid-late 1999 and he named it Teflon Barbie. FA: Giles Bradbury, 1999 | 25 | 11m, 4 | |||||
5 |
★★ Seven Eleven
FA: David Brown, 2000 | 25 | 11m, 5 | |||||
6 |
★★ Chocolate Jollies
A wall for the slope specialist. Deserves more ascents to keep it clean but probably won’t get em until people stop worrying about the grade! Start: The next route right of SE. FA: G Hill | 23 | 11m, 3 | |||||
7 |
★★ Pole Knots
Similar climbing although not so desperate. Start: Right of CJ. Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: G Hill | 22 | 11m, 4 | |||||
8 |
★ Too Cute Too Shoot / Too Cute To Shoot
You guessed it crimping and slope slapping at its best. Start: Next line right of PS Hard 22 FA: G Hill | 22 | 9m, 4 | |||||
9 |
★★ Trust
A little more reasonable still hard enough to have fun on. Start: Next right of TCTS. Hard last move FA: V Hill | 20 | 11m, 5 | |||||
10 |
★ Fantastiffy
A lot better in that its hard in places. Do not let that put you off think strong and its easy. Start: Yep right again from T. FA: G Hill | 22 | 11m, 4 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★★ Wonderfully Wicked Women
FA: John Koster, 1999 | 22 | 23m, 2, 7 | |||||
12 |
Project (B)
One of the 'unknown' project routes, located at the far East of The Colosseum at the scramble gully. |
1.3.5. The Island DWS 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Deep water soloing
Lat / Long: -34.863918, 150.577361
summary
A lovely swimming spot with some great little DWS lines on rock similar to descent gulley at thommos.
description
It is very likely these lines have been done before, i'm just putting these up because they are great problems
approach
Walk along the grotto track until you are just beyond the Rainbow Wreckage cave. There will be an obvious track leading off to the left down to the island. There is currently a bridge of logs built to the island, so it is possible to get there without getting wet.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Front face traverse
A nice techy traverse of the front face. Start on the obvious ledge near the rope, and traverse until you can stand again on the back right face. Best done L to R. Your feet may get wet depending on the tide. FA: Alec Landstra, 2018 | V1 | 15m | |||||
2 |
★ Perelandra
Traverse along the bottom, feet in green, hands on lowest rail. Might be a low tide only climb. Underneath black face traverse FA: Cadeyn Mclellan, 15 Sep 2023 | V1 | ||||||
3 |
★★ Back Face Traverse
Classic juggy traverse of the back face on cool features. Can be done either direction. FA: Alec Landstra, 2018 | V0 | 10m | |||||
4 |
★★ Fish eye
The fun arete featuring a sweet pocket horn combo. FA: Alec Landstra, 2018 | V0 | 4m | |||||
5 |
★ Flathead
Just right of Fish eye, up via nice pockets. Best traversed into FA: Alec Landstra | V1 | 4m | |||||
6 |
★ Tailor
A nice line up through a few good edges. Best traversed into FA: Alec Landstra, 2018 | V0 | 4m | |||||
7 |
★ Flounder
A cool move between monos near the top of the cliff to slopy top out. Best traversed into FA: Alec Landstra, 2018 | V2 | 4m | |||||
8 |
★ Mullet
Cool move from a small crimpy edge. Best traversed into FA: Alec Landstra, 2018 | V1 | 4m | |||||
9 |
★ Top lip traverse
Nice traverse of the top lip on slopers and pockets FA: Ari Landstra, 2019 | V0 | 8m | |||||
10 |
The Sunset Limited
Up the white stripe between Tailor and Flounder. No reaching into the other climb holds to make more challenging. Fun moves. FA: Cadeyn Mclellan, 15 Sep 2023 | V1 |
1.3.6. Donutland Leftside 26 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.863515, 150.578634
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
I Balled A Bullfighter
FA: Graeme Hill, 1990 | 22 | 7m, 2 | |||||
2 |
Born On Christmas Eve
FA: Veronique Hill, 1990 | 22 | 7m, 3 | |||||
3 |
Poupee Gonflabee
2 chain anchor. FA: Graeme Hill, 1990 | 23 | 8m, 3 | |||||
4 |
Quarter Horse
FA: Rod Young, 2002 | 25 | 12m | |||||
5 | Project (A) | |||||||
6 |
★★★ Half A Cow
FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 23 | 17m, 5 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★ Apple Related Tragedy
FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 19 | 22m, 6 | |||||
8 | ★ Blade Runner | 9 | 25m | |||||
9 |
★★ Blade Flake
FA: Rod Young & Alistair Fogg, 1999 | 13 | 22m, 6 | |||||
10 |
★ Beans on Toast
Two carrot bolts up a slab, then up and left to the steeper flake with three more carrots to a single U anchor. The relatively easy middle bit can be optionally protected with a few cams from camalot .3-3 Warning: Large flake near the last bolt is broken and loose in the crack. FA: Veronique Hill, 1990 | 16 | 18m, 5 | |||||
11 |
★★ Taste Of Mexican Meat
FA: Graeme Hill, 1990 | 22 | 18m | |||||
12 |
★ Snot And Udders
Warning: Fixed protection need replacing. Warning: Massive beehive 2m right of the route. Beesuit is advised when climbing. Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Graeme Hill, 1990 | 22 | 10m | |||||
13 |
Kisses And Cuddles
FA: Veronique Hill & Graeme Hill, 1990 | 17 | 12m | |||||
14 |
★ Hugging And Fucking
FA: Veronique Hill & Graeme Hill, 1990 | 19 | 12m | |||||
15 | ★ Flake | 12 | 25m | |||||
16 | Jammer | 9 | 25m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
17 |
Hit the Deck
The steep arête & hanging lip starting just R of Jammer, with heaps of fixed nonsense. FA: Pete Tosen | 25 | ||||||
18 |
★★★ Rainbow Wreckage
Fully ringbolted as of 2011. A striking splitter handcrack through one of the biggest, chossiest caves in Nowra, but amazingly the rock in the crack itself actually looks sorta ok. FA: Rod Young, 2000 | 24 | 25m, 10 | |||||
19 |
Airpower
FA: Andy, 1997 | 23 | 15m | |||||
20 | Project | |||||||
21 |
★ Sinucab
FA: Rod Young, 1989 | 21 | 18m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
22 |
★ Where There's Pork There's Fire
Hard little move off the deck then it gives up. Start: At little corner crack right of S. FA: G Hill | 20 | 10m | |||||
23 |
Flirt & Squirt
Only goes up to the same level as where there's Pork. Rope drag (and ability)prevented continuation. FA: G Hill | 23 | 15m | |||||
24 | Rambone Machine | 23 | 30m | |||||
25 |
Pulling Off The Rambone Machine
The first climb i bolted with the petrol drill and carrots, then later filled it with rings. Really good climbing after the slightly flaky lower section. Start: At the bottom of the slot right of the arete. FA: G Hill, 1989 | 23 | 30m | |||||
26 |
Rambos Got Me By The Nuts -Open Project
Up scoop then over to the crack at the top of this traverse to the left and onto the wall above. Start: Same as POTRM. FA: Doddy will give it a burn.., 2000 | 25 | 30m |
1.3.7. Donutland Rightside 25 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.864437, 150.580372
approach
Quickest access is to park on Yurunga Drive opposite Ikara Place. Walk straight into the bush for 25m to a fence which stretches off to the right. Step around the left end of the fence and go straight ahead for another 15m to the top of the descent slot on your right (don't fall into it!!). An awesome but quite easy subterranean scramble down inside the bowels of this amazing slot pops you out beside Wolfgang Donut (the slot is obvious in the first topo below).
Otherwise, if you want an easier but slightly longer trail, park 150m further SE on Yurunga Drive, opposite Gunyuma Cres, and follow the council-marked Grotto Walking Trail down to the bottom then head right (NW).
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Wolfgang Donut
One of the early hard routes in 'Nowra'. Up past some hard (big) moves past a few RBs. Bundy Rebolted 03-08-2006, prob a waste of steel and no one will ever climb it. Start: Start around the corner of the Green Slab, 2m R of the awesome walk-down slot. FA: Ant Prehn, 1989 | 26 | 10m, 3 | |||||
2 |
★ Chopper Chicks From Zombie Town
Thin stuff. Start: Start on the left hand side of the wall almost on the arete. [The topos for the routes on this wall are a bit of a guess, to give the gist of the wall. Please update the topos if you know what route goes where]. FA: G Hill | 19 | 14m | |||||
3 |
★ Roy's Rectal Ring Balm
Head up right at mid height. Start: Start as for CC. FA: G Hill | 16 | 14m, 6 | |||||
4 |
★★ Roy's Rectal Ring Balm direct
Start: Start a few meters right of RRRB and climb into that route. FA: G Hill | 20 | 25m | |||||
5 |
★ Johny Mantackle
Wanders a bit down low until you pass a small pocket. FA: G Hill | 22 | 15m | |||||
6 |
★★ Johny Mantackle Right Hand Start
FA: G Hill | 22 | 15m | |||||
7 |
Saving Ryan's Privates
Bouldery start, up past overlap, then straight up. FA: G Hill | 20 | 15m | |||||
8 |
Spurt Reynolds
Up to a vague groove and then through a small headwall. FA: G Hill | 20 | 25m | |||||
9 |
★★ Jack the Dripper
FA: G Hill | 21 | 25m | |||||
10 |
★★ Dance of the Ballrags
FA: G Hill | 22 | 25m | |||||
11 |
Abswing
Up, then head right at the flake, then up. FA: G Hill & G Hill | 21 | 25m | |||||
12 |
★★ Abtronics
Start: Start as for 'Abswing'. FA: G Hill | 23 | 25m | |||||
13 |
★ Abflex
Awaits a direct start. Start: Start as for 'Abswing'. FA: G Hill | 23 | 25m | |||||
14 |
Abduct
Start: Start just left of the corner. FA: G Hill | 17 | 25m | |||||
15 |
★★ Chrome Injury / Chrome Poisoning / Lattanzio Corner Crack
(AKA ,Lattanzio Corner Crack, Chrome Poisoning.) Recently retrobolted to half height, originally done to full height, trad, taking the right hand line from half height. The obvious corner at the right end of The Green Slab. FA: John Lattanzio & Austin Legler, 1980 | 19 | 20m | |||||
16 |
★★ Secret Agent Man
FA: McElroy | 20 | 20m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
17 |
★ Barbiturate Corner
The first half of Coneheads: climb the awesome pumpy corner crack to the cave. There is no proper anchor, lower off a ringbolt or old carrots (or permadraws if you're lucky), or top it out another 15m on trad. | 20 | 20m | |||||
18 |
★★★ Conehead & The Barbiturates
One of Nowra's finest. Far superior to many other "3 star" routes around here! The start slab often seeps but it's an absolute gem from there to the top. Start up the steep pumpy 15m corner crack to sitdown rest in cave, then launch out onto the awesome overhanging wall for 15m of bouldery brilliance to the top. FA: Ant Prehn | 28 | 30m | |||||
19 |
Conehead Arete Project
The hardware up the incredible arête on the R side of the Conehead wall. 30m of 30 degrees! | 30m | ||||||
20 |
★★ Spider Bait / Chinese Water Torture
The greatest Nowra layback there is. Tricky at mid height. Can seep very heavily even when the rest of the crag is dry. FA: G Hill FFA: Stuart McElroy, 1990 | 23 | 20m, 10 | |||||
21 |
Nervous Breakdown
FA: Steve Bullen, 1989 | 26 | 15m | |||||
22 |
★ Pilchard Crack
Has been rebolted? It's 5m R of Chinese Water Torture. | 14 | 25m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
23 |
★★ Apotogen
The really obvious and desperate looking arete that overhangs the boulders, just left of Caribbean Beat Master. Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo. FA: Zac Vertrees, 2002 | 31 R | 15m | |||||
24 |
★★ Caribbean Beat Master
The mega crack up the side of the mega block (20m opposite Chinese Water Torture). Overhangs at least 30 degrees - its much steeper than it looks in the topo. FA: Stuart McElroy, 1990 | 25 | 20m | |||||
25 |
★★ Annually Fixated
Chimney climbing. When you get to Spiderbait, don't continue on into the massive echoey cathedral area (Aptogen/Eptogen inside). Instead go right (towards the river) down a short slot, descending a few metres, then walk left (Eastish) for 15 or so meters under a large high arched roof. At the Eastern end look up for the obvious chimney/cave. The topo is more an indication - you can't see much of the climb from the front, but without 3D I thought tracing the actual route would make people think it was a face climb. The first bolt is about 5m up a pretty friendly scramble, then continue up into the cave, then squeezing left to 3 belaying bolts about 15m (half-way) up. Use them. Running a >60m rope all the way up to the top is possible with your belayer on the ground but unwise. There are so many twists on the way, so much rope out, and most importantly the final anchors are pretty much over the top, so the rope drag/friction means the belayer can't give any slack at all - to get down the climber has to pull the toprope up all the way to be able to descend. And then it's impossible to pull the rope once they're down. Instead put yourself on protection and belay your partner up (a little cramped, but there's enough of a ledge to stand on near the mid-point bolts). Finish the climb from there worming up though several meters of chimney, and then some easy slabbing back out on the face to finish. Even belaying from half-way there's still heaps of resistance after cleaning because of the unhappily placed final anchor bolts, but at least it makes it possible to get your rope back. Just make sure you're comfortable with belaying from above and then lowering yourself from the midpoint bolts to finish after you've dropped your partner back down. Also the climber is often out of sight. Easy enough moves on a long novel climb, but you have to manage all this annoying friction just for the small reward of a few unmemorable metres after the chimney. FA: John Koster, David Brown & Marlene De Martin, 1997 | 17 | 33m, 9 |
1.3.8. Gridlock Block 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.864835, 150.580710
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Bargain
FA: Veronique Hill, 1997 | 18 | 6m | |||
2 |
Grid Lock
FA: Graeme Hill, 1999 | 23 | 8m | |||
3 |
Fatso
FA: Mark Woodard, 1998 | 20 | 10m | |||
4 | FM's Pro | 20 | 8m | |||
5 | Fat Marks Project |
1.3.9. The Mini Mart 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.864562, 150.580799
summary
Nice little wall, with a super short approach. Great rock.
description
Nice little wall, with a super short approach. Great rock.
approach
Park as for the rest of the grotto. Walk down the first set of stairs. Turn right into the bush for 30m (just after the grotto boulders). The wall will appear
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Closed project-Mitch
The king line of the wall. A tricky start guards pleasant climbing above | 12m, 5 | ||||||
2 |
★★ Give It the Beans
Stick clip 1st bolt and matle up onto the ledge. Lovely moves between nice holds on great rock! Being tall will help FA: Alec Landstra & Match, 9 Sep 2020 | 23 | 10m, 4 | |||||
3 |
Closed project
At the left hand end of the wall. Climbs the phat flake. | 7m | ||||||
4 |
★★ Beans into Berries
Start as for Give it the Beans then traverse left into give it the berries. fun climbing FA: Mitchell Stewart & Alec Landstra, 2020 | 21 | 10m |
1.3.10. The Grotto Proper 70 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.865293, 150.581709
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Track side routesThe short bolted wall directly above the Grotto Walking Track. No more bolting is allowed in this area. | ||||||||
2 |
Stitch And Hitch
Another tight little number that will test your crimp skills. Keep pulling and stop moaning and you will piss up it. Start: Wall left of the carrot on the walk down track. Right of the chimney. Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: G Hill, 2000 | 21 | 10m | |||||
3 |
★★ Lack of Trust
This one will keep you on your toes. Good foot work will help. A true classic. Start: Line just to the right of the carrot bolt in the centre of the wall. Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: G Hill, 2000 | 22 | 12m | |||||
4 |
★ The Chronicles of Red Dick
Tricky in places that don't even have places. Start: On the arete just right of sluts of trust. FA: G Hill, 2000 | 21 | 10m | |||||
Before the GrottoFollow the cliff line around from the previous routes | ||||||||
6 |
Vanessa Variant
Neat slabbing for a few moves then you get right into Vanessa. Start: Right ten or so meters from TCOR at the clean slab left of slot. FA: G Hill, 2000 | 20 | 10m | |||||
7 |
Vanessa
The left most route on the wall. Start: Right of VV at arete of slot. FA: G Hill, 2000 | 20 | 10m | |||||
8 |
★ Stephanie
A cheap route in the venacular of routers as it joins up a lot of surrounding bolts with few of its own. Start: As for Vanessa FA: G Hill, 2000 | 19 | 10m | |||||
9 |
★ Stephanie Variant
Up Rock Shoxs to the first bulge then head left to the obvious pocket the up to anchors. FA: G Hill, 2000 | 20 | 13m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
★ Rockshox
FA: Rod Young, 1995 | 20 | 13m | |||||
11 |
★ Fizzbomb
FA: Rod Young & Chris Gregory, 1995 | 19 | 13m | |||||
12 |
★★ Rite Of The Bolts
They get tricky to differentiate in this area so to get the true feel you climb to the right side of the bolts on the lower wall. If it feels way thin and impossibly hard then you have the correct line otherwise you are climbing the 'Fizzbomb' variant start. Start: At blank wall right of 'Fizzbomb' arete. FA: G Hill, 2006 | 20 | 15m | |||||
13 |
★ Curly Chickens Direct
FA: G Hill, 2006 | 20 | 15m | |||||
14 |
Curly Chickens Direct Finish
This unit soughts out the new routers from the Look Mum I Gotta Drill Crowd! It and the next route make CC a redundant traverse in the middle of the wall. How i love making your route finding errors into the directissima. Start: Same as the CC marked on the rock which is about 4 meters right of the 'Fizzbomb' arete. FA: G Hill, 2000 | 21 | 12m | |||||
15 |
★ Crunchy Chocolate
FA: Nathan Bolton | 21 | 13m | |||||
16 |
★ Jim's Militia
Completes the task of making CC a piking traverse in the middle of the wall. Goes where CC was afraid to step. Start: Next right of CC. FA: G Hill | 22 | 12m | |||||
17 |
★★ Suck a Cockatoo
Second right of CC FA: G Hill | 22 | 14m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
18 |
★ Escape Velocity
Vgroove right of CC FA: G Hill | 21 | 12m | |||||
19 |
★ Pearced Anal Egg Roll
Left of overlap. Graded 18 in Rod Young's guide - I changed it from the misleading 21 - this agrees with other comments. FA: G Hill | 18 | 14m | |||||
20 |
★ Not The Crack
The crack was always wet so you just couldn't use it. So only about one hold will work in the crack the rest is thin wall climbing. If the crack dries out look out for global warming its coming sooner than we expect, give up your job and go climb all my classics before you die! Start: Just meters right of the Egg Roll on the ledge. FA: G Hill, 2006 | 23 | 15m | |||||
21 |
★★ The Wet Patch
All soughts of dubious technologies were tried to stop the wall from leaking out of the pockets. A good climb but you just have to put the wet patch out of your mind and do it. Start: Down on the ground at corner left of 'Vermin Arete'. FA: G Hill FA: G Hill, 2000 | 21 | 18m | |||||
22 |
★ Pavlova's Dog
A great off vertical wall where you can stand on your feet and contemplate why you can't climb it. Start: Just right of the 'Wet Patch'. FA: G Hill | 21 | 18m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
23 |
★★ Love From The Planet Pulse
These walls are really great climbing. You're mad if you don't give them a go next time you scurry past. Start: Cracky thing just right of P's Dog. FA: G Hill | 18 | 20m | |||||
24 |
★ Rodent From Rigel
Best wall in the area bar none! Start: Just right of Planet 'Pulse' FA: G Hill, 2006 | 21 | 17m | |||||
25 |
★ Vermin From Venus Variant
Vermin From Venus 'Arete' start is so hard you really have to work for the grade. So its better off keeping your finger nails and doing this start instead. Start: One meter right of the 'Rodent From Rigel'. FA: G Hill, 2000 | 21 | 15m | |||||
26 | Vermin From Venus Different Start | 21 | 25m | |||||
27 |
★ Vermin From Venus
FA: Graham Fairburn/bolts by hill | 22 | 25m | |||||
28 |
★ Vermin Arete
Nails hard start. Those dudes could really crimp it in the old days. Start: Under arete now complete with new ring bolts. FA: G Hill | 21 | 20m | |||||
29 |
★★ Vermin From Venus Arete Variant Variant
Really good climbing that lets you do the possible bits of 'Times Up' and leaves the impossible bits to somebody who can. Start: At any of the Vermin Starts, take your pick but i suggest the easy one. FA: G Hill, 2000 | 21 | 14m | |||||
30 |
Times Up
FA: Steve Bullen, 1990 | 27 | 20m | |||||
31 |
★★ Married & Mortgaged
FA: Steve Bullen, 1990 | 30 | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
32 |
★★ Sid Vicious
Classic blunt arete. Soft 6 for 'Nowra'. FA: Ant Prehn, 1989 | 26 | 20m | |||||
33 |
Steve Jones
Start a few meters right of Sid Vicious. Up the wall to the single U anchor. Considering that the route finishes at a single bolt lower off in the middle of the wall, after 9m of mediocre climbing, and is the first half to the route Paul Cook, it's a route that seems to be worth forgetting (plus it's sandbagged). But don't let that stop you. FA: Mark Woodard, 1997 | 18 | 9m | |||||
34 |
★★ Paul Cook
Up Steve Jones then into the original aided line to top. Really good lay aways rave rave rave etc! FA: G Hill | 23 | 22m | |||||
35 |
★★ Jonny Rotten
Right a couple of meters from 'Steve Jones' at the off set. Good moves at the top where it joins 'Paul Cook'. Start: The old Giles and Ant aid route now fully operational. FA: Giles, 2000 | 24 | 22m | |||||
The Grotto MainEasiest if you continue to the bottom of the descent track, then follow the tracks left, and back up. It is possible to follow the cliff line around from the previous routes, but it involves a 4-5m corner at around grade 15 | ||||||||
37 |
★★★ Amazon Queens In the Avocado Jungles Of Death
Very popular. It is a bit easier (22) if you retreat to the flake on the right at the crux. But, this seems like most obvious thing to do, and going direct seems a little contrived. If you want to rip the dodgy flake off then don't go direct otherwise grit your teeth and go direct for a safer experience. FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1989 | 23 | 20m | |||||
38 | ★★★ Amazon Queens Right Hand (flake) Variant | 22 | 20m | |||||
39 |
★★★ Belgian Tourists
24 surely? FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1989 | 24 | 21m | |||||
40 |
★★★ Going The Tonk With Zena
A bit goey at the crux. Start as for Belgian Tourists but step right and up wall and over bulges. FA: G Hill | 25 | 20m | |||||
41 |
★★★ How Much Can A Koala Bear?
Ricky put some new bolts in. Classic !! Not too hard for a Nowra 4 FA: Ant Prehn & Alex Simon, 1989 | 24 | 25m | |||||
42 |
★★★ Zimbabalooba
Possibly the best route on the wall. Not too cruxy, and long enough to get a good pump. FA: Rod Young, 1998 | 24 | 20m | |||||
43 |
★ Tin Clouds
Up the corner and flake to the suspended flake. Continue up to jug headwall. Start: Start just R of 'Access Chimney' at arete. FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young & Alex Simon, 1990 | 20 | 25m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
44 |
★★ Metal Rain
FA: Rod Young & Phil Pisanu, 1990 | 24 | 25m | |||||
45 |
★★ Abdulmajid
FA: Rod Young, 2000 | 24 | 22m | |||||
46 |
Berlin Wall
Up obvious thin flake as for AbdulMajid then right and follow line of RBs over bulging wall and on up to top of cliff. FA: Ant Prehn, 1990 Maint: Tim Booth, 2022 | 26 | 25m | |||||
47 |
★★ L'Arch
Climb the slab beneath the cave passing a nice flake. Continue above cave tending slightly left to a flake, then back in line to lower-offs. Start: Start 2m right of BW FA: Tony Lindley, 2000 | 17 | 16m, 5 | |||||
48 |
★★ Throbbing Pole Of Love
Balance your way up passing 7 RBs. Finish at the larger U bolt or link into the top of L'arch Start: Start 2m right of LA FA: Mark Woodard, 1996 | 20 | 15m, 7 | |||||
49 |
★ McStagger Direct Start
Adds a grade twenty start to Mcstagger or at second bolt you can join Alien Space monster Start: Off the ground just to left of pillar FA: Rick Phillips & Jamie Mennie, 2000 | 20 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
50 |
★ McStagger
Up and left to flake and up the obvious pinnacle on the wall. Finish at ledge. 'Extension' is 'TMc'. Start: Start as for 'ASM'. FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003 | 15 | 15m, 6 | |||||
51 |
Tipsy McStagger
start as for ASM. go left up pinnicle (14) to small ledge then follow rings up steep rock with small sharp holds FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2003 | 25 | 20m | |||||
52 |
★ Pie Man
Straight up wall veering slightly right past 4 bolts to lower off as for 'Mc'. Start: Start as for 'ASM'. FA: Stephen Hawkshaw, 2004 | 14 | 15m | |||||
53 |
Slip Slop Snap
Warning Fixed Gear: Rusty Carrots FA: Paul Westwood, 1990 | 22 | 25m | |||||
54 |
★★ Alien Space Monsters
FA: Rod Young & Sue Young, 1989 | 19 | 25m, 9 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
55 |
★★ Billy Goat Gruf
A Billy Goat must make it's way up this route guarded by a fearsome and hideous troll (crux) who is so territorial that he eats anyone dares try. Do you have what it takes to get to the green grassy meadow? Set: Will Watkins, 2000 FA: Liam Mcintyre, 2023 | 27 | 8m, 3 | |||||
56 |
★★ Sheriff Of Nothing
Start a meter left of Spinning Blades, Clip the bolt first, then continue out along the hanging rib before eventually heading up FA: Rod Young, 1998 | 24 | 12m | |||||
57 |
Sweet Thing
Start for Sheriff, then head left out to the lip below ASM and up the wall FA: Rod Young, 1997 | 22 | 10m | |||||
58 |
★★ Eat My Spinning Blades Of Steel, Mother....er Lefthand Variant
Start as for Spinning Blades and take the lower line of bolts between Sheriff and Spinning Blades, to join the latter at the no-hands rest FA: Garth Miller, 1990 | 23 | 10m | |||||
59 |
★★ Spinning Blades of Steel
Start at the right side of the pillar and follow the jugs out to the left. Use the rings. FA: Mike Myers, 1990 | 20 | 9m | |||||
60 |
★ Bedtime Teddy
Start as for Spinning Blades, but head straight up. FA: Mark Woodard, 1996 | 21 | 8m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
61 |
★★★ Lipstick
Start on the right arete of the cave. Follow the lip up to the crack, then straight up this FA: G Hill | 25 | 15m | |||||
62 |
Lupus Nervosa
FA: Garth Miller, 1993 | 27 | 21m | |||||
63 |
★★★ From Here To There
FA: Ant Prehn & Giles Bradbury, 1990 | 25 | 25m | |||||
64 |
★ Snot and Misery At Arapiles
The bolted crackline. Finishes at the top of cliff after a leftward traverse. Single U anchor is to assist with cleaning. FA: Mark Woodard, 1997 | 18 | 28m | |||||
65 |
★ Cacahouete In The Sky
Quite a unique climb with a particularly tricky mantle shelf and a stiff little ending. Start: A few meters to the right of the wide crack S&MAA FA: V Hill | 24 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
66 |
To Hell And Back
Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Graeme Hill, 1997 | 24 | 15m | |||||
67 |
Blaze Your Dead Chromies
Was 3 bolt project Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: G Hill Fat Mark | 22 | 7m | |||||
68 |
★ Orgasm Addict
FA: Mark Woodard, 1996 | 19 | 8m | |||||
69 |
Jail Bait
FA: Mark Woodard, 1996 | 16 | 8m | |||||
70 |
★ Love Glove
Start about 2m left of 'Joy Mitten'. Climb the unlikely looking wall to small ledge then continue slightly left and on up the arete. FA: G Hill | 21 | 16m | |||||
71 |
★ Joy Boy
Better finish to Joy mitten. Goes all the way! FA: G Hill | 21 | 18m | |||||
72 |
Joy Mitten
FA: Mark Woodard, 1996 | 19 | 12m | |||||
73 |
Project
FA: Open, 2000 | 30m |
1.3.11. The Hood Area 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.866018, 150.582603
summary
This sector offers a very impressive hanging 15m high sheer face which overhangs by about 20-30 degrees.
description
Unfortunately the wall is undercut by a blank roof which mandates a 5m batman start to the good climbs, but this is soon forgotten once you pull on to the brilliant climbing. Both 27s are excellent but receive relatively few ascents by Nowra standards. The 29s and 30 are very neglected but of excellent quality. Anyone willing to scrub off a few cobwebs won't be disappointed.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Baby Coneheads
Start just left of Girls in the Hood. Climb the crack feature, step right then back left to anchors. FA: Rick Phillips, 2000 | 21 | 8m, 5 | |||||
2 |
★★ Girls In The Hood
Climbs the middle of the short overhanging wall just up and left of The Hood wall. Slick holds and a couple of punchy moves. FA: Tara Sutherland & Richard Watts, 1993 | 24 | 8m, 4 | |||||
3 |
★★ Rolling With The Syndicate
Start as per GITH then go right. FA: Robbie LeB | 27 | 9m, 4 | |||||
4 |
★★ Pimp Behind The Wheel
This is the left arete of the awesome hanging wall. Climb from the ground to a sustained boulder problem past the last 2 bolts. FA: George Fieg, 1996 | 30 | 12m | |||||
5 |
★★★ Funky Gripsta
Batman Start 4m left of Evil E. A Pumper! Awesome! FA: Carlie LeBreton, 2008 | 27 | 20m, 9 | |||||
6 |
★★ Insane in the brain
An old project dispatched. Stick clip and batman to the start jug of Evil E, then head left and up to join Funky Gripsta. Excellent boulder problem and then pump to the top. About as hard as Evil E. FA: Pete Tosen, 2006 | 28 | 20m | |||||
7 |
★★★ Evil E
Start 5m R of the flake of Funky Gripsta. Stick clip & batman to start. Excellent bouldery moves most of the way, with possible heartbreak high and an inspired runout to finish. FA: George Fieg, 1995 | 28 | 20m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Insane Funk and the Evil Grip (Link-up)
Batman to start of Evil E. Move left and do the crux of Insane in the Brain then left at the 4th bolt into the undercling crux of Funky Gripsta. Under the rooflet, move right a metre and finish up Evil E through its crux. Classic link up. Make sure you traverse right into Evil E directly after the crux of Funky - if you find yourself at the kneebar rest, you've gone much too far. Give yourself 28 if you do it this way. | 29 | 20m | |||||
9 |
★★ Insanely Evil (link-up)
As for Insane Funk and the Evil Grip but go right out of the hole at the third bolt across a few crimps back into Evil E rather than left into Funky Gripster. | 29 | 20m | |||||
10 |
★★★ Livin' A Hustler's Dream
Start 4m R of Evil E, stick clip and batman to start. The climbing is barely any harder than Evil E but is more sustained, and just as brilliant. It's easy to place the draws while lowering off Evil E if you want the soft option. FA: George Fieg, 1996 | 29 | 20m |
1.3.12. Iceman Wall 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.866239, 150.582904
description
A great wall. The starts are tricky but persevere, and you will be rewarded with fantastic routes.
approach
Walk up from the lower grotto track at the eastern end of the clearing. Same approach as Gonads wall
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Sun Machine
FA: Rod Young, 2000 | 24 | 25m | |||||
2 |
★★ Icypole
Up sun Machine then up on left of arete all the way to top left set of anchors FA: G Hill | 22 | 20m | |||||
3 |
★★ Iceman Direct
As for Dry Tooling but at the last bolt on it go up and left to break, one more bolt, and anchors at the top of the arete. | 23 | 20m | |||||
4 |
★★ Dry Tooling
Up for snowman then diagonal up the wall in from arete, then to arete near little roof. From here go right then up to hole and anchors. Makes iceman obsolete as it should. FA: G Hill | 22 | 20m | |||||
5 |
★★ Iceman
FA: Ant Prehn & Dav Filan, 1990 | 23 | 20m | |||||
6 |
★★★ Snowman
FA: Ian Hoffstedder & Mark Baker, 1990 | 23 | 20m | |||||
7 |
★★ Kings Cross
FA: Colin Berry & Rod Young, 1995 | 22 | 20m | |||||
8 |
★★ Wack Attack
Up left of Jester. This can give climbers with knee troubles the chance to go to hospital. FA: G Hill | 21/22 | 20m | |||||
9 |
★ Wack Attack Right Hand Start
Avoids the groove start Start: At 'Jester' FA: G Hill, 2000 | 21 | 20m | |||||
10 |
★ Jester
Anchor Replaced - B. Rattenbury 10/9/10 FA: Colin Berry & Rod Young, 1995 | 19 | 20m | |||||
11 |
★★★ Worm On A Razor
Varied climbing with great exposure. Start in the crack, then slightly right on to the arete/slab, all the way up through the chimney. Take lots of draws, consider stick-clipping the first. FA: Mathew Grabovsky & Mark Doherty, 1995 | 19 | 30m | |||||
12 |
★ Fat Marks Really Hard 16
Way hard for a 16 better climb solid 18 before you jump on this little number, now consensus grade is 19 Start: At undercut groove thing just right of WOAR The arete right of Worm. Bloody hard for a 16. FA: Fat Mark FA: Mark Woodard, 2000 | 18/19 | 8m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 |
★ Getcha Goolies
Up The Shoot Root etc then continue up black wall. Hard to get on the wall feel free to molest the little fig tree. FA: G Hill | 22 | 25m | |||||
14 |
★★ The Shoot Root & Drive A Ute Mob
The crack to the ledge. Quite good! FA: G Hill Fat Mark | 22 | 20m | |||||
15 |
★★ The Dawes Solution LHS
A great route as you still have to do the Johnny Dawes move that i learnt after a coaching clinic with the man himself. Though i never used it again after this climb. Start: The left start of the direct line that goes up the black wall to mid height. Black wall right of worm. Go up crack then across right to do the Johny Dawes dyno. FA: G Hill FA: G Hill, 2000 | 21 | 15m | |||||
16 |
★★ The Dawes Solution
This is the direct. Hard to believe it goes at just 23. Well it does if you don't rip your finger nails off trying. FA: G Hill | 23 | 15m |
1.3.13. Gonads Wall 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.866273, 150.583241
description
This wall is an absolute gem. The rock is highly frictional and the climbing can be quite technical and interesting. Oh, and Depleted Gonads is a must tick for those that climb easier grades.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Practical Chocker
Start in Open corner left of DGC. Up corner and wall to ledge, then up overhanging arete and across void to anchors. FA: L Wishart, 2009 | 22 | 25m | |||||
2 |
★ Toboy The Eighth Man
FA: Graeme Hill, 1996 | 22 | 6m | |||||
3 |
Prince Planet
FA: Graeme Hill, 1996 | 22 | 6m | |||||
4 |
★ Astro Boy
FA: Graeme Hill, 1996 | 22 | 6m | |||||
5 |
Plum Plum
FA: Veronique Hill, 1996 | 22 | 6m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★★ Depleted Gonad Circumference
2x clip-and-go biner anchors. FA: Big John Padslow | 18 | 20m, 9 | |||||
7 |
★★ Pissed-Up Porker Stalker
Start as for 'Depleted Gonad Circumference', then follow the line of rings adjacent to that route. This route has the hardest single move on the wall (and it has claimed many egos). FA: Graeme Hill, 1996 | 22 | 22m, 9 | |||||
8 |
★★ Word on a Wing
FA: Rod Young & Colin Berry, 1995 | 21 | 22m | |||||
9 |
★★ Violent Flemm
FA: Rod Young & Colin Berry, 1995 | 22 | 22m | |||||
10 |
★★★ Bondage and Discipline
FA: Rod Young & Colin Berry, 1995 | 23 | 23m | |||||
11 |
★★ Frogstomp
FA: Rod Young & Colin Berry, 1995 | 22 | 20m | |||||
12 |
★★ Space Oddity
FA: Rod Young & Chris Gregory, 1996 | 21 | 17m | |||||
13 |
★ Dr Pepper
FA: Chris Gregory & Rod Young, 1997 | 21 | 14m |
1.3.14. Palm Tree Wall 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.866526, 150.583650
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Backdraft
FA: Rod Young & Sue Young, 1996 | 18 | 22m, 7 | |||||
2 |
★ Shmoken
FA: Rod Young & Colin Berry, 1996 | 21 | 22m | |||||
3 | ★ Shmoken Variant Start | 23 | 5m | |||||
4 |
Shmoken Direct Start Variant
FA: Glen Jones, 1996 | 23 | 22m | |||||
5 |
★ Schtill Shmoken
FA: Rod Young, 1999 | 20 | 22m | |||||
6 |
★ Cancer
FA: Nate Bolton | 18 | 22m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★ Toss Up
Up just left of the palm tree, possibly through it depending on how long it has been FA: Rod Young & Chris Gregory, 1995 | 22 | 12m, 4 | |||||
8 |
Palmed Off
FA: Unknown, 2000 | 24 | 12m | |||||
9 |
Guru
FA: Tim Booth, 1996 | 25 | 12m | |||||
10 |
Shelltox
FA: Sarah Fieg, 1996 | 25 | 10m | |||||
11 |
★ Squeeze My Cheese
FA: John Passlow, 1993 | 21 | 8m | |||||
12 |
Root Me
FA: Graeme Hill, 1996 | 24 | 10m | |||||
13 |
★ rootable?
climb the corner crack and tree upto the anchors of "root me" FA: Dylan Tubaro & jarrod mitchell, 13 Mar 2020 | 15 | 10m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
14 |
★ Cadabra
FA: Rod Young & Sue Young, 1996 | 16 | 10m | |||||
15 | Project (B) | |||||||
16 | Project (C) | |||||||
17 | Project (A) |
1.3.15. Moon Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.866899, 150.584154
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Feral Guinea Pig
FA: Rod Young, 1996 | 21 | 10m | |||||
2 |
★★ Mephisto
Hard crux at the start then cruisey. FA: Sarah Fieg, 1995 | 26 | 12m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Swallow The Moon
A popular route. Enjoyable climbing and rock. Marred by the reinforced flake. FA: Rod Young, 1995 | 24 | 13m | |||||
4 |
Thick As A Brick
FA: Sarah Fieg, 1995 | 24 | 10m |
1.3.16. Grotto Boulders 28 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.864785, 150.570921
summary
Blocks scattered amongst the bush and cliffs.
description
Random boulder problems amongst the cliffs.
approach
Scattered along the grotto walking track. Boulders are visible from the track. If you miss them, you walked the wrong way.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Rung BoulderBoulder at the bottom of the P.C. rungs. | ||||||||
2 |
★★★ Off The Rungs
A true crag classic, worth the drive. Could be V3 if you’re a rung. Sit start, left hand in good hold above head. FA: Zac Schofield | V5 | 4m | |||||
3 |
★★ Don't Tell the Rung Police
Same start as Off The Rungs but go directly up on the jugs | V2 | 3m | |||||
Hogwarts BouldersSome boulders to the right of hogwarts sport climbs. They are at the bottom of the cliff. | ||||||||
5 |
Even Neville could climb this
Sit or stand start doesn't make much of a difference, then straight up to top out. FA: Niggles | VB | 3m | |||||
6 |
Neville could probably climb this too
Sit start is slightly harder here, then straight up to the top out. FA: Niggles | VB | 3m | |||||
7 |
Nobody puts harry in a corner
Sit start laybacking into the corner on the side pull. Straight up to a top out. FA: Niggles, 21 May | V1 | 3m | |||||
8 |
Honeydukes Glacial Snowflakes
Same sit start as "Nobody puts Harry in a corner", but climbs up and to the right to top out, be careful of the flake. FA: Niggles, 21 May | V0 | 3m | |||||
9 |
I hate spiders
Stand Start climbing the left face of arete, starting left hand on rail crimp and right hand on the arete. There is a sit start here for someone stronger than me. FA: Niggles | V1 | 4m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
Aragog hates you too
Stand Start climbing the right face of arete, then follow the arete up to top out. FA: Niggles | V0 | ||||||
11 |
Open Project - the philosophers stone
Perfect line straight up the shard of rock. Way above my pay grade, I'm guessing v5+. | 3m | ||||||
Gympie BoulderLocated along walking track between Hogwarts and P.C. Rock is good and the high top out is jugs (until the moss reclaims it). | ||||||||
13 |
★★ 97% Gympie Free
Same start as Gympie Kraft. From the flake, big move to lip, traverse left then mantle and up. | V5 | 3m | |||||
14 |
★★★ Gympie Kraft
Sit start matched on the rail (left side of the face). Bust out right into flake and turn on your go-go-gadget arms to grab heuco further right. From here, head straight up to jugs around lip and top out. Mega classic. V7 if you’re Alec or Pat FA: Zac Schofield | V8 | 5m | |||||
15 |
★★★ The Gympie Who Shagged Me
Same start as The Gympie Who Loved Me, but keep heading left to jug and pull lip here. Top out as per Gympie Kraft. | V6 | 6m | |||||
16 |
★★★ The Gympie Who Loved Me
On right side of the face, start on the two crimps in the hueco thing. Head up and left, before moving to the right to finish up Weak And Gympie. | V6 | 4m | |||||
17 |
★ Weak And Gympie
Start matched on the obvious jug. Traverse left on good holds then pull the lip and top out. FA: Zac Schofield | V2 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Stinging Tree BouldersLocated along walking track between Hogwarts and P.C. From Gympie boulder follow path north east about 20m, on the left of the track is a stinging tree walk under this carefully to find the boulders. | ||||||||
19 |
★ Float like a butterfly, sting like a tree
Stand start in the middle of the wall, left hand on small pinch and right on sloper. Go straight up and toping out in cave, to get down either downclimb or traverse out right side of cave. FA: Niggles, 21 May | V1 | 4m | |||||
20 |
Belly of the bee
standing start high as you can reach on the sloper, Climb straight up and then traverse out to the right to get down. FA: Niggles | V1 | 4m | |||||
21 |
Don't get stung
Stand start, climb up the right face of the arete until you hit the moss, climb out to the left and descend in the chimney (being careful of the stinging tree). FA: Niggles | V0 | 4m | |||||
22 |
Was going to call it wobbly rocks, but the wobbly rocks fell out
Stand Start on the ledge, straight up to the crack below the moss covered top section. FA: Niggles | V0 | 4m | |||||
Jungle BoulderA long way from anywhere. Located about halfway along walking track between P.C. and the Grotto Proper. | ||||||||
24 |
★★ Baloo Boink
Goes up the left face of this boulder. Sit start left hand on slimper (inside wide crack) and right hand on good side pull down low. Go up. | V4 | ||||||
25 |
★★ Cuddles With Bagheera
Low sit start with left hand on good crimp (far left) and right hand on pinch block. Head up face to eventually pull onto right side of arete for the top out. | V5 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Colosseum BoulderAlong walking track underneath The Colosseum climbing area. Rising slope traverse. Grade and name to be confirmed. | ||||||||
27 |
★★ The Stoned Philosopher
Delicious rising sloper traverse with a perfect jug pebble to rest on. Low sit start on the flat jug on the far right. Top out on the far left FA: Alec Landstra, 1 Jan 2021 | V5 | 8m | |||||
Shadows BoulderLocated about halfway down steps when walking down to the Grotto Proper, amongst trees on your left side. This boulder is one of the massive boulders that split the Grotto Proper from the stairs. | ||||||||
29 |
For A Limited Time Only
Start in slopey break, just left of tree. Through conglomerate to sus jug. Up to side pull then continue up to jugs and high top out. | V4 | 6m | |||||
30 |
★ Konglomeraid
Start on low crimps, just inside cave entrance. Big move up to sloper break (conglomerate band) and follow this around the round arete and finish matched on crimp (left side of arete). | V5 | ||||||
31 |
★★ View From The Afternoon
Sit start at bottom of cave, just in front of the RHS boulder, with left hand in good slot and right hand on side pull. Climb straight up to next break, then traverse right to gain sloper jugs in large pocket. From here, head straight up, finishing with a big move around roof to a jug. Back wall is out (no dab). | V7 | ||||||
32 |
★ Shadow Puppets
Located at bottom of cave. Sit start matched on slopey jug. Climb straight up to next break, then traverse left to jug above the LHS boulder. match this and step off. | V5 | ||||||
33 |
★★★ Wayang Project
Open project. Outrageous. Start up Shadow Puppets, link into View From The Afternoon, link into Konglomeraid, then finish up the face to top out. Will need a sport grade its that long! | 20m | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Trackside BoulderAlongside the main descent track into the Grotto Proper, everyone has looked at this boulder and surely lots have done it. | ||||||||
35 |
★ Trackside
Marked with "V6 Sit Start". Sit start on the right side of the roof. Move out the roof to top out. | V4 | 3m | |||||
36 |
★ Sidetrack
Sit start on the left side of the roof. Move out the roof to join in the top out of Trackside. | V4 | 3m |
1.4. Bomaderry Creek 478 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.853527, 150.592614
description
Hidden in the dense bush behind North Nowra, Bomaderry creek is the 'lost world' of Nowra climbing. This area is actually a collection of small crags scattered along the gorge of the creek. Some of the crags are completely worthless, but some are genuinely impressive and feature some great climbing. Access is often quick and easy. Please park with care in these residential areas.
approach
For 'South Central' and 'Cheesedale', park at the end of Jamieson Road. For 'Lot 33', 'Lot 34', 'Mortein Wall' and 'Rosies', park on Walsh Crescent.
1.4.1. Lot 34 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Bouldering and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.857254, 150.592964
description
The wall faces north and overhangs enough that the face will stay dry in the rain. Be careful of the drop!
approach
Keep walking past Lot 33 and take a short scramble up to above Lot 33 Left.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Belotte Et Ribelotte
FA: Veronique Hill, 1994 | 20 | 5m | |||||
2 |
★ Whopping Wobblers
FA: Graeme Hill, 1994 | 20 | 5m | |||||
3 |
★★ Juicey
sit start in the scoop and head directly up vague arête | V4 | 3m | |||||
4 |
Joe's Massive Dyno
Makes Joe, Joe Dynamo (Lot 33) feel like a walk in the park. Consensus upgrade from V11. FA: Joe Hodgson, 2000 | V12 | 3m | |||||
5 | ★★ Red Hot Left | V6/7 | 3m | |||||
6 | Red Hot Right | V6 | 3m | |||||
7 | ★ Dopa Paint | V5 | 3m | |||||
8 | ★★ Project 1 | 4m | ||||||
9 | Project 1 Sit Start | 4m | ||||||
10 |
★★ Sunday On The Suffer Bus
FA: brian rattenbury | 20 | 5m | |||||
11 |
★★ 8 Bit Hero
Start in the break under the low roof. Big move out to slopey lip, then straight up to finish. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V5 | 3m | |||||
12 |
★★★ Daddy's Daddy
Start as for 8 Bit Hero, moving right toward the hanging arete. Top at first break. FA: Matthieu REUS, 2014 | V7 | 3m | |||||
13 |
★★ Dope On A Rope
FA: brian rattenbury | 22 | 10m | |||||
14 |
Dude's One Blow
FA: Dave Filan, 1993 | 20 | 10m | |||||
15 |
Project 3
Crouch start on good sloper. Move under roof on slopers to small undercut/sidepull, massive move to roof lip, find shallow dish on face. Foot magic (toe hook maybe?) to gain other dish. Heel hook (maybe?) to gain finish. Looks in the V12+ range. Open to whoever can do it... | 3m |
1.4.2. Lot 33 Leftside 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.857327, 150.592534
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ All-Girl Slotfest
Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Graeme Hill, 1994 | 24 | 9m | |||||
2 |
★★ Domed Damsels
FA: Graeme Hill, 1994 | 21 | 6m | |||||
3 |
★ No Holes Barred
FA: Graeme Hill, 1994 | 21 | 6m | |||||
4 |
Hills Hoist
FA: Rob Lebreton, 1994 | 22 | 7m | |||||
5 |
Hell Comes To Frog Town
FA: Graeme Hill, 1994 | 21 | 7m | |||||
6 |
★ Passagers De La Nuit
FA: Veronique HIll, 1994 | 21 | 8m | |||||
7 |
★ Rosy Rockets
FA: Graeme Hill, 1994 | 21 | 8m | |||||
8 |
★ Lachez Les Fauves
FA: Veronique Hill & Graeme Hill, 1994 | 22 | 9m | |||||
9 |
★ Blowing Like Niagara Falls
FA: Rob Lebreton, 1993 | 24 | 9m | |||||
10 |
★★★ Stupid-Dope-Fly-Pimp-Shit
FA: Rob Lebreton, 1994 | 26 | 9m | |||||
11 |
★★ Chick's dig scars
FA: Carlie Happ | 25 | 9m |
1.4.3. Lot 33 Bouldering 63 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.857352, 150.592386
description
The cave faces north and is so large that it never actually gets the sun. However, it is notoriously "greasy" outside of winter so add a few grades. The cave is large enough to not get wet in the rain but it does seep occasionally. The rock is sandstone and very few (if any) holds are chipped.
approach
Refer to map for 'Bomaderry Creek' Crags.Turn into Illaroo Rd off the Princes 'Highway' at North 'Nowra', just north of the Shoalhaven River. Take the 1st right which is Walsh Cres and follow it around until there is a bush reserve on your right. Park here and follow the track downhill for 30m. This is 'Mortein Wall', follow the track down past the cliff and turn right until you reach a huge cave with a big horizontal roof about 10m up. This is it. The bouldering gets harder the further left you go ...
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Jugs 2 Ring
Sit start and up on good holds to finish on the jug. | V2 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★★ Undercuts I Think
Sit start and traverse left on the big undercut to join in to the crimps on 'Harder Than You Think'. | V5 | 4m | |||||
3 |
★★ Harder Than You Think
Start as for 'Project 2 Nowhere'. Move right via pockets to an airy finish. Bad landing, pads and spotters recommended. | V5 | 4m | |||||
4 |
★ Project 2 Nowhere
Sit/crouch start and straight up via a tough move near the top. | V3 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★★ Burnt
Stand start the ledge. Straight up via slopey crimps. | V4 | 4m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Burning Moves / .
Start at the ledge for Burnt. Move up to the crimps then left to the middle hold of Two Big Moves. Finish as for TBM. FA: Jack Folkes, 9 Sep 2014 | V3 | 4m | |||||
7 |
★★ Two Big Moves
Stand start on the ledge. 2 big moves straight up. | V2 | 4m | |||||
8 |
Straight up from traverse
Stand start on Slopey Traverse and head straight up via pebbles and small sidepulls. Thin. V7+ maybe? | |||||||
9 |
★★ Slopey Traverse
Stand start on the jugs. Traverse right on the slopey break. Hardest V4 in the world... Can be done either direction. | V4 | 3m | |||||
10 |
★★ Big Red One
Stand start on the jugs. Move right to the big flake then straight up. Slopey top, tough when warm! | V4 | 4m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★★ XD
Stand start and up via tough moves. | V5 | 4m | |||||
12 |
★ Juice
Stand start on the lowest rail. Move up and traverse left to finish as for "No Discernible Graffiti". | V4 | 4m | |||||
13 |
★ No Discernible Graffiti
Stand start and straight up. | V5 | 4m | |||||
14 |
★ Yellow River
Obvious juggy warm up traverse with some crimps, starting as 'Un-named V6' and right to the start of 'XD'. V2-3 or solid V6 start for 'XD'? | V3 | 6m | |||||
15 |
★★ The Unnamed
Sit start on flake move up via sharp holds down low to tough moves up top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | V6 | 4m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
16 |
★★ NSK
Sit start at rail and head right for some funky throws with big holds. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! | V7 | 4m | |||||
17 |
★★ NSK Left
Same as for 'NSK' but jump left to jug instead of up to sloper. | V7 | 4m | |||||
18 |
★★ Scrawny & Horny
LH crimp that you use to throw to the finishing jug has snapped. There is still a hold there but probably goes at a harder grade * Starts right where the blue Lot 33 graffitti is. Awkward start to gain the sidepull/undercling with your RH. Then a long move LH to a shallow pinch, cross over with your RH to a pocket. Then up to the sharp LH crimp and a throw to the jug to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!* FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | V9 | 4m | |||||
19 | ★ I Want To Be A Pumper sit | V11 | ||||||
20 |
★★★ I Want To Be A Pumper
Stand start on 2 crimps for a big RH throw to a sloping hold. Then LH out left to sharp hold and again a big move with the RH around the bulge to finish. FA: Joe Hodgson, 2000 | V9 | 4m | |||||
21 |
★★★ I Want To Be A Gate
Links 'I Want To Be A Pumper' into the finish of 'The Crotty'. | V10 | 5m | |||||
22 |
★★ Klockwork Gate
Start as for ‘Klockwork Orange’ and finish as for ‘Stargate’. | V11 | 4m | |||||
23 |
★★★ Klockwork Orange
More consistent start into the finish of the next problem. Upgraded from V9 following the broken starting hold. FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 FA: Paul Punk Westwood, 2000 | V11 | 4m | |||||
24 |
★★★ Stargate Pumper
Links 'Stargate' into 'I Want To Be A Pumper'. FA: Chris Webb, 2004 | V10 | 5m | |||||
25 |
★★ Stargate
Harder start than the previous problem but the same big throw to finish. FA: Rob LeBreton, 2000 | V10 | 4m | |||||
26 |
Crotty Pumper
Start as for ‘The Crotty’ and finish as for ‘I Want To Be A Pumper’. | V10 | 4m | |||||
27 |
★★ Unknown Crotty
A worthwhile line that skips the first move of The Crotty. Sit start as per Unknown, but don't go up to large jug and jug pocket (these are eliminated). Instead, from the good crimp rail, head right to join and finish up The Crotty. | V8 | 5m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
28 |
★ The Crotty
Hard first and last move with a big throw from the underclings to finish. FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 | V9 | 5m | |||||
29 |
★★ Unknowingly Indirect
Eliminate. Start as for Unknown. From the huecos, move right through pockets to jug on The Crotty, then back up and left to jug and finish. | V4 | 4m | |||||
30 |
★ Indirectly Unknown
Variant to Unknown. From the huecos, move RH to pocket and LH to good edge, nice move to jug and top. | V4 | 4m | |||||
31 |
★★ The Dyno
Dyno from the 2 huecos to the jug. | V4 | 3m | |||||
32 |
★★ Unknown
Sit start on the big jug. Move right via crimps to the rail, then big move to the huecos. Move upward to finish. FA: Unknown, 2000 | V4 | 4m | |||||
33 |
★★ Unknown Nuggets
Start as for Unknown and finish as for Nappy Nuggets Traverse. | V6 | 5m | |||||
34 |
★★ Nappy Nuggets Traverse
Start as for Nappy Nuggets but keep climbing right following line of holds right then back left to rejoin. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! | V7 | 4m | |||||
35 |
★★ Nappy Nuggets
Diagonally up the wall to a tricky gaston move to finish. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! FA: George Fieg, 2000 | V8 | 4m | |||||
36 |
★★ Bread
Starting at 'Nappy Nuggets' trending left. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! FA: Chris Webb, 2004 | V11 | 4m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
37 |
★★★ The Seven
Sit start on big jug, move straight up via a tough jump to the hueco then to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! | V7 | 3m | |||||
38 |
★★★ Sexy Esky
Sit/crouch start on big undercling. Big move out left to fridge hug your way up to the pocket then usual finish at the jug. Ledge on the ground is NOT in. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V6 | 3m | |||||
39 |
Sexy Nuggets
Start at Sexy Rexy traverses right all the way to finish up Nappy Nuggets. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! FA: Pete Tosen, 2010 | V9 | 8m | |||||
40 |
★★ Problem with big moves in front of tree
Sit start on the flake. Move right via undercut to the big moves fridge hugging up to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! | V7 | 4m | |||||
41 |
★★ Sexy Rexy
Sit start on the overhanging flake. Move up the good holds then out right to the hueco and finish with the big move. Ledge on the ground is NOT in! | V6 | 4m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
42 |
Special Delivery
This problem goes out the steepest part of the roof. Start matched low on the horizontal rail then out to the LH gaston and then up to the RH 3 finger pocket. A big throw to the LH undercling pocket then up some good holds to a powerful finish at the big hueco. Slot currently broken. Much much harder now. FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | V12 | 5m | |||||
43 |
Project
The lower link up into "Special Delivery". Worked for some time by CWP who thought it would be V14. | |||||||
44 |
Fed Ex
Links into 'Special Delivery'. | V11 | 5m | |||||
45 |
★★ 56ft Back
Low sit start at the back of the roof, big moves out following the break in the roof. | V7 | 5m | |||||
46 |
Roof Project
Link from the start of "56ft Back" and "Fed Ex" left along the low roof overlap and into "Pissy Missy". Looks in the range of V12-V13. | 6m | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
47 |
★★★ Pissy Missy
Start matched on a good hold, go RH to sidepull, some funky footwork and then LH up to jug in roof. Up to the pocket and same move again to finish. FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | V9 | 4m | |||||
48 |
Harder Project
Start of "Worm" right into "Pissy Missy". | |||||||
49 |
Hard Project
Very crimpy, very hard looking project from the start of "Worm" straight up into the scoop. Old Paul Westwood project. | |||||||
50 |
★★★ Worm
Start one hand under the roof on the decent undercut and one hand with the hold on the lip, traverse left and finish up "Joe, Joe Dynamo". Originally started under the roof with 2 undercuts which is now broken, starting one move higher brings the grade down from the original v14. FA: Chris Webb-Parsons, 2006 | V13 | 4m | |||||
51 |
★★★ Joe, Joe Dynamo
A big jump from a huge jug to another huge jug - the business is controlling the swing! The landing is a bit dodgy so pad it out and have a spotter. FA: Joe Hodgson, 2000 | V9 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
52 |
★ 5 Flappers
Stand start as for Corporate Takeover. Move up and right to top at decent edges. FA: Jack Folkes, 5 Apr 2015 | V2 | 3m | |||||
53 |
★ Corporate Takeover
Crimpy stand start, up on crimps and sharp undercut to top at flake and dirty edge (no match). FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V3 | 3m | |||||
54 |
★★ 60's Spiderman
Sit start at the rail, big mantle up to the sloper. Then move up to finish with a big move to the hueco. The corner is often full of cobwebs but this is well worth quickly brushing them away. FA: Jack Folkes, 23 Jul 2014 | V3 | 3m | |||||
55 |
★★★ There Can Be Only One
Far left bolted line on the face. Set: Paul Westwood FA: Chris Webb-Parsons | V7 | 7m | |||||
56 |
★★ Highlander
Highball at far left end of Lot 33. Tops out to Lot 34. Stand start on 2 edges, move up into roof and committingly top out around the bulge. FA: Paul Westwood, 2001 | V7 | 7m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
The next few problems are located on the free-standing block that has fallen from the roof of the cave. | ||||||||
58 |
★ I'm Old Gregg
Stand start and climb the hanging arete. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V2 | 3m | |||||
59 |
★ Familiar
Undercutting stand start right of arete, move straight up via presses and ledges. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V0+ | 3m | |||||
60 |
★ Swing
Dyno from shallow jug left to ledge. 165cm FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V4 | 3m | |||||
61 |
★★ Spring
Dyno from shallow jug straight up to top of ledge. Hard. 196cm FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V6 | 3m | |||||
62 |
★★ Gregs Birth
Start low well inside the cave sitting on the rock. Birth your way out of the cave and mantle. Any rock is in. FA: Kai Buckman | V3 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
Walk past Rosies to get to the next 2 problems. | ||||||||
64 |
Fat Guys Can't Jump
Start as for Apparently They Can but instead of dynoing, head right via good crimps and finish back at the pocket. FA: Duncan Brown, 2013 | V3 | 4m | |||||
65 |
★★ Apparently They Can
Stand start at the slot and the slopey break, head up to the flake then dyno high to the pocket. Obviously, shelf to your left is out. 148cm FA: Jack Folkes, 2 Jan 2016 | V5/6 | 4m |
1.4.4. Lot 33 Rightside 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.857387, 150.592168
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Project | 6m | ||||
2 |
Real Men Don't Wear Rubber
FA: brian rattenbury | 24 | 10m | |||
3 |
The Anus Family
FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1994 | 24 | 7m | |||
4 |
The Great
FA: Chris Wallace, 1994 | 22 | 6m |
1.4.5. Mortein Wall 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.857432, 150.591623
description
Just 20m left of 'Rosies' is this vertical face, with some very impressive spotted gum trees. This is the best crag in this area for sub-22 climbers. The slightly harder routes L around the arete are fairly resistant to rain and seepage.
approach
From the Northern end of Walsh Crescent walk though the clear bush track and down a gully to directly arrive at the wall on your right.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Organo Cockacide
Now on ring bolts FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1993 | 19 | 7m, 3 | |||||
2 |
★ Blackbutt Borers
Eucalyptus pilularis, commonly known as blackbutt, is a species of medium-sized to tall tree that is endemic to eastern Australia. Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1993 | 20 | 7m, 2 | |||||
3 |
★ Motorcycles In Heat
Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1993 | 20 | 8m, 2 | |||||
4 |
★ Globular Goolies
FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1993 | 21 | 8m, 3 | |||||
5 |
★★ Beef Master
FA: Graeme Hill, 1993 | 23 | 8m, 4 | |||||
6 |
★ Ten Minute Finger Board Workout
FA: Graeme Hill, 1993 | 22 | 8m, 3 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★ Engorged
FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2000 | 22 | 15m, 5 | |||||
8 |
★ Psycho Hose Beast
Extra bolt added in runout. Add a little spice (and interest) to the climb with a more direct start - you don't need to do the big right hand easy move if you work out a little sequence. FA: Kim McKeown, 1993 | 17 | 10m, 4 | |||||
9 |
★ Wobblebuns
FA: Chris Wallace, 1994 | 18 | 12m, 5 | |||||
10 |
★ Flood
FA: Andrew Dunbar, 1993 | 18 | 11m, 4 | |||||
11 |
★★ Jock Itch
The very obvious orange streak up the middle of the vertical wall. FA: Graeme Hill, 1993 | 23 | 12m, 5 | |||||
12 |
★★ Bug Itch
Rebolted August 2012 Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Graeme Hill & Veronique Hill, 1993 | 20 | 12m, 5 | |||||
13 |
★ Fribble
FA: Mark Woodard, 1995 | 18 | 12m, 5 | |||||
14 |
★ Kims
FA: Kim McKeown, 1994 | 16 | 10m, 4 |
1.4.6. Rosies 28 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.857437, 150.591188
description
Just another impressive jutting steep Nowra overhang. Despite overhanging by up to 15m, and never getting wet from direct rain, seepage and spooge are a problem if it's been wet. Nothing that can't be fixed by plenty of chalk, brushes and a battery powered blow dryer!
Routes described left to right. I.e. if you parked on Jamieson St you will get to them in the reverse order.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Man Bear Pig
5m left of Slurry Whipping. Line of RBs over bulge to double RBs. FA: Sharik Walker, 2010 | 30 | 8m | |||||
2 |
★★ Slurry Whipping
Two excellent and very different boulder problems. Soft if you can crimp. Start about 5m L of the wet chimney. FA: Brian Rattenbury | 26 | 10m | |||||
3 |
★ San Quinten
FA: Graeme Hill, 1995 | 23 | 10m | |||||
4 |
★ Huggin' The Hog
FA: Graeme Hill, 1995 | 24 | 10m | |||||
5 |
Slammer
FA: Graeme Hill, 1994 | 22 | 10m | |||||
6 |
R Project 4
Another Nowra steep ultra-hard project abandoned, circa 1990's? Come along and claim it! | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★ Space Cadet
FA: Chris Wallace, 1995 | 26 | 10m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Aloha Paradise
FA: Rob Lebreton, 1995 | 30 | 15m | |||||
9 |
★★ Lucious Hooters
Clip the low belayer's bolt on the left so the leader doesn't get knackered by the rope when dogging the crux. FA: Paul Westwood, 1995 | 27 | 6m | |||||
10 |
★ Alohamora
The line just right of lucious, a sandy start leads into some tough but good bouldery moves through the roof, finishes up Aloha. FA: Ryan Sklenica | 30 | ||||||
11 |
R Project 2
Direct (even harder) start to Beefmeister? | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★ Beefmeister
Start as for Frosty and at 3rd bolt move leftwards towards the small cave directly under the roof, blast directly through roof. Set: Rob Lebreton FA: Garth Miller, 1996 | 31 | 15m | |||||
13 |
★★★ Stranger on the Shore
Bit of a debate about the grade, seems 32/33!! Start as for Frosty, at the major break where frosty continues upwards, veer left via some awesome bouldery moves. FA: chris webb parsons, 2006 | 32 | 15m | |||||
14 |
★★★ Frosty
Classic steep Nowra climbing. Don't pump out after the crux - it has been done! Set: Jarred McCullough FA: Andrew Bull, 1997 | 29 | 15m | |||||
15 |
R Project 3
Another Nowra steep ultra-hard project abandoned, circa 1990's? Come along and claim it! | |||||||
16 |
★★ EI Maco
FA: Rob Lebreton, 1994 | 31 | 15m | |||||
17 |
★ El Pundi
Start as for Comin' at ya Pundi, through initial crux, then out left past a hanger under roof to finish up the final moves of El Maco. FA: Pete Tosen, 2012 | 30 | 18m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
18 | ★★ Comin' at ya Pundi | 30 | 15m | |||||
19 |
Black Frosty
Start as for Parasite past the crux the head left through El Maco to finish up the crux of Frosty. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2011 | 31 | 20m | |||||
20 |
★★ Black Maco
Parasite into the finish of El Maco via the cool 'la rose' move. Sustained. FA: Luke Magill, 2012 | 31 | 15m | |||||
21 |
★★ Parasite
Set: Paul Westwood FA: George Fieg, 1999 | 30 | 15m | |||||
22 |
★★★ SuperSize Me
Start as for Shaker Fries. Keep traversing left to the Beef Meister anchors. | 26 | 17m | |||||
23 |
★★★ Shaker Fries
FA: Andrew Bull, 1994 | 25 | 15m | |||||
24 |
★★★ Mega Mac
A classic of the wall. Tricky crimpy start but persevere as the jugs of glory aren't far off but that's when the pump really sets in. Gentle on the flake, it probably needs to be fixed. While the routes to the left stay dry in the rain, the first half of this route seeps. FA: Klaus Klein, 1994 | 25 | 15m, 8 | |||||
25 |
★★ Games Burger
FA: Dave Ross, 1994 | 25 | 11m | |||||
26 |
★ Casual Sex In A Cineplex
FA: Chris Wallace, 1994 | 24 | 10m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
27 |
★ Chip Buttie
FA: John Passlow, 1994 | 22 | 11m | |||||
28 |
★★ Fist Full of Steel
The far right hand climb, up pockets and out roof to a final reach to clip the anchors. FA: Steve Barry, 1992 | 21 | 12m, 4 |
1.4.7. Bartondale 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.857200, 150.590569
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Wicked Little Thing
FA: Paul Westwood, 1995 | 25 | 7m | |||||
2 |
Cheeks Of Jelly
FA: Chris Wallace, 1994 | 23 | 5m | |||||
3 |
★ Old, Fat and Married
FA: Mark Woodard, 1994 | 18 | 5m, 3 | |||||
4 |
Mr Teeny
Extension to Old, Fat and Married. FA: Matt Adams, 2009 | 30 | ||||||
5 |
BD Project 1
Another long abandoned hard-as-nails 'Nowra' project, probably circa 1990s. Give it a shot! | |||||||
6 |
BD Project 2
Another long abandoned hard-as-nails 'Nowra' project, probably circa 1990s. Give it a shot! | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★ Sideshow Bob
FA: Andrew Bull, 1997 | 27 | 15m | |||||
8 |
★ Sideshow George
FA: George Fieg, 2003 | 30 | ||||||
9 |
★★ Krusty
FA: Paul Westwood, 1994 | 28 | 15m | |||||
10 |
Mr Bubbles
FA: Rob Lebreton, 1994 | 29 | 13m | |||||
11 |
BD Project 3
Another long abandoned hard-as-nails 'Nowra' project, probably circa 1990s. Give it a shot! | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
BD Project 4
Another long abandoned hard-as-nails 'Nowra' project, probably circa 1990s. Give it a shot! | |||||||
13 |
BD Project 5
Another long abandoned hard-as-nails 'Nowra' project, probably circa 1990s. Give it a shot! | 2 | ||||||
14 |
BD Project 6
Another long abandoned hard-as-nails 'Nowra' project, probably circa 1990s. Give it a shot! | 3 | ||||||
15 |
BD Project 7
Another long abandoned hard-as-nails 'Nowra' project, probably circa 1990s. Give it a shot! | 2 | ||||||
16 |
Secrets
FA: Nick Suttor, 1993 | 23 R | 8m, 2 | |||||
17 |
Bozo
FA: Steve Barry, 1993 | 20 | 10m, 4 | |||||
18 |
Kinko
FA: Scott Campbell, 1994 | 23 | 10m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
19 |
Tongue Juice
A route lost to the jungle. FA: Graeme Hill, 1994 | 20 | 10m | |||||
20 |
Tarts On Toast
A route lost to the jungle. FA: Vronique Hill, 1994 | 15 | 8m |
1.4.8. The Bakery 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.856762, 150.589978
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sex Trek - The Next Penetration | 22 | 8m | |||||
2 |
Throbbing Zob
FA: Graeme Hill, 1995 | 23 | 7m | |||||
3 |
One For Glen
FA: Brian McKinley, 1995 | 19 | 8m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 |
Zucchini In Bikini
Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Graeme Hill, 1995 | 22 | 9m | |||||
5 |
Pumping Chocolate Cream
FA: Graeme Hill, 1995 | 24 | 9m | |||||
6 |
The Hunt For Red Dog Scrotum
FA: Graeme Hill, 1995 | 22 | 9m | |||||
7 |
★★ Non-Woven Corn
Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Graeme Hill, 1995 | 21 | 8m | |||||
8 |
★ Team Guts
Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Graeme Hill, 1995 | 22 | 8m | |||||
9 |
★ Bilbo Bender
Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Veronique Hill, 1995 | 21 | 6m | |||||
10 |
Shooting Smoo
FA: Graeme Hill, 1995 | 23 | 8m | |||||
11 |
Sex Trek
FA: Steven Whitall, 1995 | 22 | 8m |
1.4.9. South Central 48 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.855474, 150.589286
description
For some, 'South Central' embodies all that is ugly about 'Nowra', a short, steep, dusty, urbanised crag but then there are those that are totally captivated by the powerful style of climbing here and feel at peace with the world as the dappled early morning sunlight filters through the trees and dances on the rock.
The climbing here requires power, endurance and lots of it. The rock is steep and comprised of those notoriously slick 'Nowra' slopers so if there has been extended periods of rain or high humidity don't expect conditions to be great. But having said that, 'South Central' is a crag you can still climb at if it is raining.
So be warned, if you only come here once expect to get spanked and go home with aching forearms and a reputation in tatters but if you have the courage to come back a couple of times and get used to the style of climbing required you might start to believe that 'South Central' is the best crag at 'Nowra'.
approach
Driving west along Illaroo Rd, turn right into Phillip Dr, left into Castle Glen and at the end of the road turn right into Jamieson Rd and park down the hill at the end of the road. From here walk 70m straight ahead down the track until you reach a small 1m high waterfall on your left (usually dry). Cross the creek here and continue for 30m until you reach the crag. Alternatively you can park as for 'Mortein Wall' and work your way past 'Rosies', 'Bartondale' etc until you reach the waterfall.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Dickman And Throbbin
FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992 | 25 | 12m | |||||
2 |
★★ The Duralax Kid
FA: Nick Sutter, 1992 | 25 | 12m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Black Flag
FA: George Fieg, 1996 | 29 | 15m | |||||
4 |
★★★ Black Rage
A good line that shares the first two rings of 'Maintain The Rage' before veering slightly left and up the wall and finishes up 'Black Flag'. FA: Luke Magill, 2006 | 29 | 15m | |||||
5 |
★★★ Maintain The Rage
Up BB for 3 bolts then go straight up. Start: Start as for BB. FA: Chris Wallace, 1995 | 27 | 15m | |||||
6 |
★★★ Brown Badge
Excellent bouldery first move, then just plain excellent. Start: Start at the cheatstones 5m L of SB. FA: Paul Westwood, 1994 | 27 | 17m, 9 | |||||
7 |
★★ Maximum Cutshot
Classic South Central climbing! Do the start dyno of Brown Badge, then head right past a couple independant bolts to join Spermies, and finish at its anchors. FA: Mark McGivern, 8 Dec 2021 | 29 | 10m, 4 | |||||
8 |
★★★ TNT
Same first move as Brown Badge, then head right to finish all the way up ANS. Originally bolted by Rob Lebreton FA: Mark McGivern, Aug 2022 | 32 | 15m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★★★ Spermies
3 incredibly powerful moves. A poxy route - or a great boulder problem? Was briefly the hardest route in the country at grade 33. Now considered to be a V10 boulder problem on a rope. Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Paul Westwood, 1995 | 31 | 8m | |||||
10 |
★★★ Physical Graffiti
Start up Sunshine then bust left under Plastic Exploding, traverse left and up and finish at the anchors of Spermies. FA: George Fieg | 31 | 15m | |||||
11 |
★★★ Plastic Exploding Inevitable
Up ANS for a few bolts then, instead of veering R to finish, keep heading left for a few more bolts through steep territory just left of the arete, finishing just R of 'Brown Badge'. If you love pumped forearms then at the last bolt (before anchor) traverse left to finish up Brown Badge. Start: Start as for Ain't no Sunshine. FA: Zac Vertrees, 1999 | 29 | 20m | |||||
12 |
★★★ Ain't No Sunshine when he's Gone / Ain't No Sunshine
Has been called the best 28 in the world. The real classic of this area. Relentlessly steep and consistent cranking. Very enjoyable moves with no let up until the anchors. Start: Start below the obvious hanging arete. FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1993 | 28 | 15m | |||||
13 | Project | 12m | ||||||
14 |
★★ Crenshaw Boulevarde
FA: George Fieg, 1998 | 30 | 10m | |||||
15 |
Hats and Hoods / Crenshaw Extension
FA: Chris Webb-Parsons | 33 | 13m | |||||
16 |
★★ Public Domain
FA: Rob Lebreton, 1996 | 28 | 12m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
17 |
★★ Comin' At Ya Hyper
FA: Andrew Bull, 1995 | 27 | 12m | |||||
18 |
★★ Red Baron
Heel hook your way up to the third bolt (strenuous clip). Throw for the lip, grunt, then continue to the top holds trying not to fall whilst clipping. Awesome! FA: Paul Westwood, 1992 | 26 | 10m, 4 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Dungeon Master
FA: George Fieg, 1995 | 31 | 20m | |||||
20 |
★★★ Dungeon Mistress
Right hand exit to dungeon master, keep right after the first jump around the lip and finish up the slab. FA: Matt Warner | 29 | ||||||
21 |
★★ Mega Death
Up obvious corner to wild traverse rightwards on roof. Very underrated thrashing. FA: Paul Westwood, 2000 | 26 | 10m | |||||
22 |
Mega Death Direct
FA: Garth Miller, 1994 | 27 | 10m | |||||
23 |
★★ No Name
FA: Chris Wallace, 1995 | 23 | 9m | |||||
24 |
★★ There Goes The Neighourhood
FA: Andrew Bull, 1992 | 24 | 9m | |||||
25 |
★★ Scum
FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992 | 25 | 10m | |||||
26 |
Scumbag
FA: Zac Vetrees | 31 | 20m | |||||
27 |
★★★ Scumy Sex
link up of sex machine into scum FA: George Broadfoot, 2006 | 26 | 10m | |||||
28 |
★★★ Sex Machine
FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992 | 26 | 10m | |||||
29 |
★★ Crime Is Art
FA: Jared McCulloch, 1992 | 23 | 10m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
30 |
★ Two Bolts And Not For Me
Not the original start but rebolted and fun. Start up Art is Fucked and head left at the rail for 2 bolts. Finish up to rusty looking chain or add some extra excitement and go up to Crime is Art anchors. FA: Tara Sutherland, 1993 | 23 | 9m, 5 | |||||
31 |
★ Art Is Fucked
FA: Dave Filan, 1992 | 23 | 8m | |||||
32 |
★ Hunted Child
FA: Stewart Wyithe, 1992 | 22 | 8m | |||||
33 |
★ Strike
FA: Paul Westwood, 1992 | 23 | 7m | |||||
34 |
★★ Trib
Start halfway between Strike and Silver Hands. Straight up through bulges. Finish at Strike anchor. Bottom is protected by either boulder pads or the first bolt of Silver Hands. Top protected with cams. | 20 | 5m | |||||
35 |
★★ Silver Hands
Was once the hardest 17 in the known universe. They come from far and wide to feel the pockets, stroke the slopers, and clip the chains. Now it is your turn to join the masses and see why Silver Hands is number one in the world. FA: Paul Westwood, 1992 | 19 | 9m | |||||
36 |
★★★ Silver Hands Sit
The obvious mega classic sit start to the most popular route in the world. Warm up your tendons first this 17 is a little spicy. This also stores the current record information for the Silver Hands speed record. Silver Hands but speedy. Top rope speed climbing Silver Hands. Rules: One foot on the ground and you only have to slap the chains. God speed. | 17 | 9m | |||||
37 |
★ Bag Of Sand
FA: Paul Westwood, 1992 | 21 | 8m | |||||
38 |
Special K
Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist. FA: Paul Westwood, 1992 | 23 | 8m | |||||
39 |
★ Itchy Quims
FA: Graeme Hill, 1992 | 21 | 9m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
40 |
★ Burping Burgers
FA: Veronique Hill, 1992 | 19 | 8m | |||||
41 |
★ Poo With Me
FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992 | 24 | 9m | |||||
42 |
★ Poo With Me (Right variant)
FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1992 | 24 | 9m | |||||
43 |
★★ Word Up
FA: Andrew Dunbar, 1993 | 24 | 12m | |||||
44 |
★ Hard At It
FA: Greame Hill, 1997 | 24 | 9m | |||||
45 |
★★ Dungeon Dykes
Don't be put off by the lack of chalk, this climbs really well and is more straightforward than the other 23s here. FA: Greame Hill, 1999 | 23 | 7m | |||||
46 |
Torra Torra Pass
If you are finding this tough, just remember that it is a 21 at south central. FA: Veronique Hill, 1996 | 21 | 6m | |||||
47 |
Bush Bash
FA: Mark Woodard, 1996 | 17 | 5m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
48 |
Slippery When Wet
FA: Graeme Hill, 1997 | 17 | 6m |
1.4.10. Cheesedale 85 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.854381, 150.591588
1.4.10.1. Cum Wall 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.854661, 150.590729
|
1.4.10.2. Leftside 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.854254, 150.591370
|
1.4.10.3. Cheesemonster Wall 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.854241, 150.591922
|
1.4.10.4. Cheddar Choss Wall 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.854331, 150.592436
|
1.4.10.5. Cheesedale bouldering 26 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.854274, 150.591284
description
The cave faces South and is so large that it never actually gets the sun on it making it great for summer and winter alike but it is notoriously "greasy" outside of winter so add a few grades. The cave is large enough to not get wet in the rain but it does seep occasionally. The rock is sandstone and almost all of the holds are chipped so if you're not in to that sort of thing then head to Lot 33 instead. Many of the chipped holds have been filled in since this info was written on the old ausbouldering site. Take grades with a pinch of salt... They may be much harder now...
approach
Turn into Illaroo Rd off the Princes Highway at North Nowra, just north of the Shoalhaven River. Take the 2nd right which is Philip Rd opposite the church and just after the school. Take the first left, Castle Glen Rd, and at the end turn right into Jamieson Rd. Park at the end off Jamieson Rd, North Nowra and head down the path at the end into the Bomaderry Creek Bushland. Follow the track downhill for 100m until you find a small track heading left and crossing the creek just after a small waterfall. Be careful crossing the creek and follow the track another 50m until you hit a big cave with bolted climbing, this is known as South Central. Walk through South Central and follow the path for about 100m until you reach a t-intersection. Turn right and follow the path down the hill and head left before you get to the creek. About 50m further along take the vague left track that heads up the hill to the big cave, this is Cheesedale.
|
1.4.11. The Mushroom 27 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.4.11.1. Noreast Side 14 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
1.4.11.2. Souwest Side 13 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
1.4.12. Scattered Crags 112 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.853383, 150.594569
1.4.12.1. Choc-A-Block 24 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.850417, 150.594027
description
Short grey wall of ringbolts in a lovely bit of forest. Rarely visited but apparently one of the first crags developed at Nowra (in 1989). Don't be deceived by the low grades, they are Hill routes so add at least 2 grades to everything. The wall gets sun after about 11am but the trees shade a lot of the cliff.
descent notes
All routes have lower-offs. Mostly giant single bolts at the top of the cliff.
history
Hill 1989
|
1.4.12.2. The Ammo Dump 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.850759, 150.594234
|
1.4.12.3. Evil Dick Buttress 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.851399, 150.594296
description
Immediately opposite The Ammo Dump, on the other side of the creek. It is a couple of narrow buttresses with roofs and chimneys splitting them. The left hand buttress seems to hang out defying gravity. There are several unrecorded routes in this area with a scattering of old carrots.
approach
Rock hop across the creek or follow the path with metal bridge from Turley Ave
history
Old carrots from the 80s?
1.4.12.4. Sewer Wall 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
Caution: The bolts here may be corroded and need replacing...take care.
1.4.12.5. Julian Rocks 22 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.853013, 150.595151
1.4.12.6. F.O. Crag 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.856397, 150.595049
|
1.4.12.7. Scattered Crags Bouldering 28 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.851321, 150.594871
summary
Variety of quality boulders beside the walking track.
description
Boulders mostly concentrated on eastern side of the creek but there is plenty of potential for more boulders on both sides. All problems are listed on this page and each area is described.
approach
Driving South on Princes Hwy, turn right onto Turley Avenue, then left on Lynburn Avenue. Park in small parking area. Walk north along fire trail until the Bomaderry Creek Walking Track becomes apparent (on your left). ONLY GO DOWN HERE for the Swamp Boulder.
For all other boulders, keep walking along fire trail and find next entry point (has a sitting bench marking it). Walk down steps and follow trail along creek in northerly direction for all other boulders.
|
1.4.13. Creek Side 40 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.848333, 150.594409
approach
Park across from THE GYM Bomaderry, Squash & Fitness Centre, 54 Narang Rd, where you see two power poles. Follow the trail and power lines past the gate going parallel with the highway. Take right into bush at second singular power pole, leading to Creek Side Upper. There is a slope below the 'classy' boulder which leads to Creek Side Lower.
Take care when walking down the slope to Creek Side Lower as a large red bellied black snake has been spotted sun basking on the rocks on this slope
1.4.13.1. Upper 22 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.848385, 150.594670
|
1.4.13.2. Lower 18 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.848087, 150.594118
|
1.5. Babylon Areas 115 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.828504, 150.456825
summary
The 'Wild West' climbing of Nowra. No crowds, all bush.
access issues
These crags are remote from civilisation. Be prepared for NO phone reception in and around the Babylon crag areas!
approach
Head West out of North Nowra along Illaroo Road.
where to stay
Some of the areas allow bush camping (check).
1.5.1. Babylon 33 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.840485, 150.473056
approach
Navigate to (-34.84705, 150.47955).
There is now a locked gate on the access track due to misuse of the area. Park near the gate and walk, taking the right route past the gate for 1km to arrive at the power line tower.
For the Western cliff line follow the worn track towards the cliff line, West of the power line, follow the cliff line right to find a way to scramble down (not great access!).
For the Eastern clifflines go from the power line tower through the bush to the right of the power line corridor - use theCrag OSM map overlay for a route hint. Do not attempt to cross from the Western to the Eastern areas below the cliff line - only pain and frustration awaits!
history
Brogan Bunt and others from 1993 onwards.
1.5.1.1. Eastern Cliffline 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.838952, 150.474457
description
Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.
approach
There is a locked gate 900m from the carpark. There is space to park and walk in for an extra 10 minutes. More concerningly, there is a sign that says access prohibited - but it is likely directed at the dirtbag camping area and the dirt bike tracks. It's crown land and as such it's public access.
|
1.5.1.2. Western Cliffline 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.840465, 150.472747
approach
There is a locked gate 900m from the carpark. There is space to park and walk in for an extra 10 minutes. More concerningly, there is a sign that says access prohibited - but it is likely directed at the dirtbag camping area and the dirt bike tracks. It's crown land and as such it's public access.
|
1.5.1.3. Babbling Wall 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.838771, 150.474365
description
30 Degrees overhanging 18m high awesome orange rock!!
approach
There is a locked gate 900m from the carpark. There is space to park and walk in for an extra 10 minutes. More concerningly, there is a sign that says access prohibited - but it is likely directed at the dirtbag camping area and the dirt bike tracks. It's crown land and as such it's public access.
|
1.5.1.4. Jumjuma 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
approach
Its apparently further south along the Western Cliffline, past the gully. To be checked and located next visit.
1.5.2. The Gaza Strip 30 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.834732, 150.471953
approach
Bugong Road off Illaroo Road out of West Nowra. Navigate to (-34.83297, 150.47324).
The power line access track gate here is now locked, presumably to stop people driving cars off the cliff. You will have to find a spot along Bugong Road to park (limited!) and walk back.
Once along the access track you can either head right to the power lines and the cliff access rungs, or head left for a few hundred meters for the descent scramble gully (reaching 'Dead Cat Wall').
The path along the cliff to the descent gully is not marked, and the way down and through the jungle will be a hassle with a big pack. Be prepared!
Alternatively if you know where you are going you can rappel straight down the route of your choice.
The location of the access rungs has been geolocated on thecrag map for your convenience, and will take you down past the 'Falafel Wall'.
history
Tony Barten, Brogan Bunt, George Fieg, Sarah Fieg - 1990's. Unknown development since then. Remains of carrot bolts and replacement ring bolts.
1.5.2.1. Dead Cat Wall 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.835105, 150.474421
description
Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.
|
1.5.2.2. Little White Wall 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.834617, 150.473303
|
1.5.2.3. Big White Wall 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.834504, 150.472570
description
Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.
Caution: All routes are 30m long so be careful when lowering.
|
1.5.2.4. Falafel Wall 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.834454, 150.472233
description
Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.
|
1.5.2.5. Orange Wall 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.834714, 150.470865
description
Routes are described RIGHT to LEFT.
1.5.2.6. The Green Wall 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.834855, 150.469447
description
Distinctive green coloured very steep (~35°) wall up on a rock shelf.
|
1.5.3. The West Bank 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.819496, 150.441734
approach
Lower Bugong Road off Bugong Road off Illaroo Road, West from Nowra. Navigate to (-34.81950, 150.44341)
history
Rod Young and others, 1996 onwards
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Cannibals and Missionaries
FA: Tara Sutherland, 1997 | 23 | 10m, 5 | |||||
2 |
★ Unknown Soldier
At the impossible blank section down low climb into W&P and then back on route. FA: Tim Booth, 2000 | 25 | 20m, 6 | |||||
3 |
★★ War and Peace
FA: Colin Berry, 1996 | 25 | 20m, 7 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Killer Loop
FA: Rod Young, 1996 | 24 | 15m, 7 | |||||
5 |
★★ Chemical Warfare
FA: Chris Gregory, 1996 | 21 | 15m, 7 | |||||
6 |
★★ Smith & Wesson
FA: Rod Young, 1996 | 22 | 15m, 7 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★ Ode To Katie
FA: Rod Young, 1997 | 22 | 24m, 2 | |||||
8 |
★★ Flesh Mechanic
FA: brian rattenbury | 22 | 24m | |||||
9 |
★★★ Duke Nukem
FA: Rod Young, 1996 | 25 | 24m | |||||
10 |
★★ Calci Virus
An old Rabbit project.Start 6m right of Duke Nukem on the ledge left of Rodent. From ringbolt belay on ledge follow bolts up sustained wall to anchors under last little roof. Set: Rabbit, 1997 FA: Matt Adams, 2003 | 27 | 20m, 11 | |||||
11 |
Rodent
FA: brian rattenbury | 23 | 24m, 8 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★★ The Shining Path
FA: Tyler Smith, 2000 | 23 | 25m, 9 |
1.5.4. Occupied Territories 40 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.812054, 150.449263
description
The climbing at OT is varied, from grade 12 slabs to grade 25 pumpers. It is located in a great out of the way place so the usually annoyances that you asscociate with nowra do not exist. Location: From the roundabout at the North Nowra shops head right (instead of left to go to the grotto and camping areas) and follow Illaroo road out of Nowra. At 10.5km there is an intersection (Illaroo road goes left to Babylon) continue on straight ahead and shortly the road will turn to dirt (11.1km from roundabout). You will then pass under some high voltage power lines (13.1Km) and Lower Bugong road (13.9Km) off to the left (Goes to West Bank). Continue straight ahead for another kilometre of so until Abernethy�s Road appears on the left (15.1km from roundabout). Take this road for 1.5km until the road weaves down and left underneath a cliff line. Park at the bottom of the hill off the road and walk 15m to the first climb. Do NOT park in the obvious clearing on the right side of the road opposite the crag in a 2wd as the ground is soft and you will likely get bogged. The road gets a little rough near the crag so take care in a low clearance car.
access issues
Now in Bugong National Park. No dogs.
approach
From the roundabout at the North 'Nowra' shops head right (instead of left to go to the grotto and camping areas) and follow Illaroo road out of 'Nowra'. At 10.5km there is an intersection (Illaroo road goes left to Babylon) continue on straight ahead and shortly the road will turn to dirt (11.1km from roundabout). You will then pass under some high voltage power lines (13.1Km) and Lower Bugong road (13.9Km) off to the left (Goes to West Bank). Continue straight ahead for another kilometre of so until Abernethy�s Road appears on the left (15.1km from roundabout). Take this road for 1.5km until the road weaves down and left underneath a cliff line. Park at the bottom of the hill off the road and walk 15m to the first climb. Do NOT park in the obvious clearing on the right side of the road opposite the crag in a 2wd as the ground is soft and you will likely get bogged. The road gets a little rough near the crag so take care in a low clearance car.
history
2003, 2005 ?
1.5.4.1. Scoop Wall 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.811583, 150.451554
description
The first section of cliff visible from the carpark. climbing varies from steepness to easy slabbing
|
1.5.4.2. Slabs 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -34.811990, 150.451099
description
The slabs offer great easier climbing on (predominantly) awesome orange sandstone. Location: Located about 50m up the hill from Scoop wall
approach
Located about 50m up the hill from 'Scoop' wall
|
1.5.4.3. First Canyon 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.812290, 150.450328
description
About 30m right of the slab wall is a grotto feature that has some great steeper walls. It features one of the crag classics Axis of Evil which tackles the impressively overhung buttress in the back of the grotto.
|
1.5.4.4. Holy Wall 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.812330, 150.449878
|
1.5.4.5. Second Canyon 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.812303, 150.449078
description
Just around the corner from the Card Deck is the second canyon. This wall has some nice long routes.
|
1.6. Ben's Walk 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: -34.872111, 150.590676
description
CLIMBING IS NOW BANNED HERE - Climbs listed for historical reference only.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Twister | 15 | 12m | |||
2 | Anarchlypt | 13 | 12m | |||
3 | Taping Up The Lemmings | 17 | 12m | |||
4 | I Live In A Sewer | 19 | 15m | |||
5 | ★ The Real Life Adventures Of Captain Gladys Stoat Pamphlet and His Intrepid Spanial Stig On Their Journeys in Bunderberg Volume 8 | 18 | 15m | |||
6 | ★ Wombats Grunt Then Grope | 20 | 15m | |||
7 | Beauty And The Beast | 19 |
1.7. The Furnace 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.883616, 150.560679
summary
Wall & prow.
access issues
This area is currently closed as it is on private land. Please do not attempt to climb here as access is being worked on with the owners.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Fuel
FA: Paul Westwood | V11 | ||||
2 |
★★★ Unleaded
Prow. V6/7. | V6 | ||||
3 |
★★ Klem's Double Dyno
FA: Klem Loskot | V9 | ||||
4 |
Tarzan
Dyno FA: Joe Hodgson, 2001 | V10 | ||||
5 | ★★ Undisputed | V8/9 |
1.8. The Brothel 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.865298, 150.547235
summary
Roof.
access issues
This area is currently closed as it is on private land. Please do not attempt to climb here as access is being worked on with the owners.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sultans of style | V9 | ||||
2 | Jug Thug | V10 | ||||
3 | Live To A New Bet | V12 | ||||
4 | Too Hot to Handle | V11 | 3m |
1.9. The Wire 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.896164, 150.516418
description
Sandstone boulder cliff line. Potential for alot of problems.
approach
Drive out of Nowra along Yalwal Road, past the Thompsons Point turnoff. Turn right onto Longreach Road, will be signposted for Bamarang. 200m along, take a left into Bamarang Road. Road turns to gravel and heads down hill. Park under the powerlines. Wander straight in to the bush on the South side of the road and you'll come across the first boulders. This is the "East End". Explore at will...
history
Discovered 2013 by Jack Folkes.
1.9.1. East End 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Prefix
Stand start left of the big ledge at head height. Follow the line straight up. No left arete. Slab. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V1 | 4m | |||||
2 |
★★ Aftermath
Sit start the overhanging face on slopey slot. Move up through slopey hueco and slots to a slopey mantle topout. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V4 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★★ Wooden Toy
Short overhanging wall. Climb the slopey breaks to finish on the jug. Could be topped out as a highball and significantly harder. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V3 | 3m | |||||
4 |
The Green Bastard
Low start in the break, move up and left to an easy top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V1 | 3m | |||||
5 |
Parts Unknown
Low start in the break, move straight up to a high-step to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V1 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
Project 1
Low start on blunt arete left of cave. Hard sharp moves up and abit left (not past tree) to a highball topout. | 6m | ||||||
7 |
Project 2
Low start on blunt arete left of cave. Hard few moves trending right and up toward cave. Join arete of cave at about 2-3m high and continue to finish on the big hueco above the cave. Done from a stand start on arete at about V3. The rock on the inside of the cave is VERY soft!! Only use the arete and NOT anything inside!!! | 6m |
1.9.2. Centre 0 routes in Area
1.9.3. West End 0 routes in Area
1.10. Bamarang 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.902279, 150.508548
1.10.1. Reservoir Rocks 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.904631, 150.510092
1.10.1.1. The Cave 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
1.10.2. Pulpit Saddle 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -34.900114, 150.506947
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Frankenjuraffe
Direct project - Steve Set: Stephen Varney | 4m | ||||||
2 |
★★ Frankenjuraffe piker
Sit start. Two finger pocket and side pull. Up on cool pockets, until going right at big flake. FA: Stephen Varney, 2017 | V3 | 4m | |||||
3 |
★ Buoux Dukes
Stand start. L side pull, R pocket. FA: Stephen Varney, 2017 | V2 | 3m | |||||
4 |
Pink Thumb
Stand start. Move to the big pebble and up. FA: Murray, 2017 | V1 | 3m |
1.11. The Lost World 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.851486, 150.527781
description
Large sandstone boulders and butresses in a small but dense jungle-esque valley. Recently discovered, alot of cleaning required but alot of potential. Keeps relatively cool in the heat.
approach
Head out of North Nowra along Illaroo Road. When you get to Bangalee, take a left into Koloona Drive. Keep driving for about 2.5km until the rood takes a steep downhill into some rocks. Park either at the top of this hill (gated entrance) or at the hairpin at the bottom (space for 2 cars maybe). There will be a bushwalk signposted into the jungle. Follow this and explore at will. Gladerunner, Clever Girl etc are around the rocky scramble on the track and Endor, Dark Paradise etc are off the end of the signposted Forest Glade.
history
Discovered 2013 by Jack Folkes.
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Gladerunner
Sit start under the roof. Compression moves out and up over the prow. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V3 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★ Clever Girl
Low start on arete, climb up and left via good holds to a nice top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V1 | 2m | |||||
3 |
★ Jumanji
Sit start and straight up. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V2 | 2m | |||||
4 |
Forest Moon of Endor
Crouch start, up via jugs and slopers to a top out next to vines. More strenuous than you'd think. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V2 | 3m | |||||
5 |
En La Noche
Sit start under prow on rail. Big moves straight up to a hard rock onto the slab and delicately up. V5ish to the lip. Whole thing maybe V9. | 3m | ||||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★★ Dark Paradise
Sit start on sidepull under prow. Move right to gain right side of roof via big move, slap up arete until its possible to rock onto slab. Originally planned to start on rail further left but broke the hold. Doable but much harder. FA: Jack Folkes, 2013 | V6 | 3m | |||||
7 |
★ Dagobah
Sit start on right. Lip traverse up and left to top out the same as Dark Paradise. FA: Jack Folkes, 25 Dec 2017 | V5 | 3m |
1.12. Falls Creek 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.968201, 150.595714
description
Steep roofs and caves. Quite a few lowball lines in the caves but plenty of normal sized stuff too. All bouldering.
approach
A few km South of Nowra along the Princes Highway, turn West into Parma Road, a few hundred metres take the first left into Vidler Road. Past the school and at the End of Road signs take a left onto a dirt track. Cars with low (normal) clearance are recommended to park here and walk abit further. Drive a 100m to the parking area, the creek should be flowing in front of you.
history
Discovered 2013 by Jack Folkes.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Spare Batteries
Sit start at the left end of the long flat shelf. Traverse right until the end then big moves into the pockets to finish on the obvious jug. FA: Duncan Brown, 2013 | V2 | 4m | |||||
2 |
★ Down The Rabbit Hole
Stand start on 2 obvious edges on roof. Tough moves on pockets and undercuts. Finish on obvious jug. FA: Duncan Brown, 2013 | V6 | 4m | |||||
3 |
★★ Crème Brûlée
Sit start near back of cave on big flat jug. Out roof on pockets to second roof with juggy flake. Up the last wall using sloping seam then topout with big hole jug. FA: Pete, 27 Sep 2023 | V5 | 6m | |||||
4 |
★ Chocolate Curls
Sit Start 2m right of Crème Brûlée with big hole jug. Powerful moves directly out the roof. Into sloping seam then shared topout. Reminiscent of Cave Club in the Grampians. FA: Pete, 27 Sep 2023 | V8 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★★ Smokestack
Stand start with right jug and left edge. Back and left through small pockets in the roof. Big move to seam then traverse back right to massive jugs for easy topout. FA: Pete, 27 Sep 2023 | V6 | 5m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★★★ Witness the Wetness
Starting by the jug ledge jump off the ground to underneath the flake, up and over to mantle. Very big and intimidating, careful of the creek.
FA: Pete, 27 Sep 2023 | V7 | 3m |
1.13. Flat Rock 83 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.886591, 150.576662
summary
Large area mainly focussed on varied bouldering. Everything from the lowest of lowballs to the scariest of highballs.
description
Lots of bouldering available with the full extent of the crag not even touched upon. A small number of routes available as well.
Don't bother trying to climb here after much rain as the dam like to overflow very easily. This makes the creek flow quite well, turning lots of problems into shallow water soloing!
access issues
Around the dam is all on Council land. Please note that as you get downstream of around the pipeline, it turns in to private land.
approach
Heading towards Thompson's Point along Yalwal Road, take the last right in West Nowra down Filter Road. After about 300m there will be an intersection with the left turn being a dirt track next to a bus stop. Now gated. Park here and walk following the power lines down to the dam (2-300m). Just before reaching the water, turn right down another track. This takes you to the dam wall.
ethic
No chipping/comfortising/drilling/enhancing. Whatever you want to call it, don't do it.
Clean off excess chalk. Including ALL tick marks!
Please respect a line if it is marked as a Closed Project. There are only a couple that are either routes or highballs. Other than that, go nuts.
Clean up ALL your rubbish.Yes, this includes cigarette butts and finger tape. Yes, there is already junk around the place, its Nowra, what do you expect? Don't add to it!
history
Discovered 2014 by Jack Folkes.
1.13.1. The Otherside 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.887228, 150.574818
description
Sector containing 4m slabby wall, couple of steep lowballs, lovely highball face (can be seen from carpark) and a wicked steep long prow.....
approach
From the car park, head across the top of the dam (gate has a big fat lock on it, just climb around.) and head left as soon as you reach the other side.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
White Wall left
Hard press start leading to what (hopefully) looks like "easier" moves above. | 5m | ||||||
2 |
White Wall right
Most feasible looking line on this wall. Big dyno start to "easier" looking moves up high. No idea on grade, dyno looks desperate enough.... | 5m | ||||||
3 |
★★ The Prow
Photo does not do it justice... 5m long prow at about 70 degrees overhanging for most of the way. V9-V10 | 4m |
1.13.2. Dam Wall 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.887161, 150.575481
description
Boulders underneath the Dam Wall.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ That Dam Wall
Sit start on the flake. Move up to top out. Large flat hold to left is in. Blocks on the ground are not. FA: Jack Folkes, 7 Aug 2014 | V2 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★ Cake Walk
Sit start at the jug. Move up via sharp arete. FA: Jack Folkes, 7 Aug 2014 | V0 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★ Potential Torrential
Sit start at the jug. Move up and right to top out. Sharp arete is not in at all! FA: Jack Folkes, 7 Aug 2014 | V2 | 3m | |||||
4 |
PT Variant
Sit start at the jug. Traverse right then up. | 3m |
1.13.3. Uppers 23 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.886991, 150.576078
description
Everything from the dam downstream to the Colosseum. Many free standing boulders, lots of cleaning required for new lines...
approach
2 approaches depending on where you're heading. The tracks are either side of a dead white tree stump.
For the dam wall boulders, take the left track down. For everything else, take the right track down past the old water works shed.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ ytb
Sit start and match hands on the bottom of the Crescent moon feature. up slightly left to top out. Any recommendations on the best way to remove the crappy spray paint would be appreciated. FA: daryl jones, 3 Aug 2018 | V2 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
Jackie Brown
Straight up the big features. FA: jaqui schleeter, 3 Aug 2018 | VB- | 3m | |||||
3 |
Reservoir Bitch
Straight up the slab closest to the back of the pump station. FA: mathew smith, 27 Jul 2018 | V0- | 6m | |||||
4 |
★★ Reservoir Dog
1m to the left of RB. start with hands in obvious low pockets. Move straight up. Easy to the top. FA: Quentin Tarantino, 3 Aug 2018 | V1 | 6m | |||||
5 |
★ Mr Pink
Fun boulder with a pipe ladder to come down. | VB | 3m | |||||
6 |
★ Pulp Friction
Sit start obvious low pockets. upwards and slightly left. FA: daryl jones | V2 | 3m | |||||
7 |
★ Mr Blonde
Up the left hand side FA: daryl jones, 3 Jul 2018 | V0- | 3m | |||||
8 |
★ Mr Brown
Straight up. Committed move just before the top. FA: mathew smith, 27 Jul 2018 | V0 | 4m | |||||
9 |
★ Mr White
straight up, good for confidence. FA: mathew smith, 27 Jul 2018 | V0- | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
★ Apollo Creed
Stand start on left arete. Follow arete up to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V0 | 3m | |||||
11 |
★ Rocky Balboa
Stand start on side-pull sloper in centre of slab. Move straight up to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V0 | 3m | |||||
12 |
★ Clubber Lang
Stand start on right arete undercutting overlap feature. Follow arete up to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | VB | 3m | |||||
13 |
★ Tommy Gunn
Same start as Ivan Drago but head left. Poor landing but a committing slab. FA: Yianni, 2014 | V1 | 5m | |||||
14 |
★★ Ivan Drago
Stand start at the blankest section of slab. Move straight up to top out high. Crux is getting established. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V1 | 5m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 |
★★ The House That Jack Built
Sit start on left side of prow. Move up the arete until you can transfer onto the slab. Top out up scoop. FA: Jack Folkes, 27 Jun 2014 | V5 | 4m | |||||
16 |
★ The Renovation Jack Didn't Approve
Standing start avoiding the first floor of the house. Worth doing if you're at the boulder. | V1 | 4m | |||||
17 |
Link
Start right in crack, head left to join in to THTJB. Pocket now smaller and sharper. | 5m | ||||||
18 |
★★★ Project 2
The prow from a sit. Not great landing, bring spotters and long arms. | 5m | ||||||
19 |
★ Walked On By
Sit start under the roof matched on gaston. Head up to the peak, don't mantle early. Watch out for loose block. FA: Jack Folkes, 2 Jul 2023 | V4 | 4m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
20 |
★ Ozone
Sit start on left side of seam/crack. FA: Jack Folkes, 2 Jul 2023 | V4 | 2m | |||||
21 |
Turbo
Sit start on the right side of the seam/crack. FA: Jack Folkes, 2 Jul 2023 | V1 | 2m | |||||
22 |
★★ Revolver Ocelot
Sit start on slopers. Head up and diagonally left to top out. | V5 | ||||||
23 |
★★ Revolver Ocelot Direct
Sit start on slopers. Head straight up to top out around the steepest part of the bulge. | V4 |
1.13.4. The Colosseum 30 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.886499, 150.577247
description
Amphitheatre of free standing boulders. Note: some boulders are sitting in the creek and may not be possible to climb.
approach
Follow the right track past the shed and continue downstream until you reach the amphitheatre.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Maenianum Secundum
Lowball. Laying start on shelf. Move around the nose to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V1 | 1m | |||||
2 |
★ Caesar's Laurels
Stand/hanging start on the horn/jug. Campus (or foot on) straight up to top out. Both blocks on the ground are NOT in! FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V3 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★★ Resting on Caesar's Laurels
Stand/hanging start on the slopey shelf. Traverse left and in to the hanging start of Caesar's Laurels. Both blocks on the ground are NOT in! FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V4 | 4m | |||||
4 |
★ Hero Holger
Sit start on nose, traverse right before mantle. FA: Holger, 2014 | V1 | 1m | |||||
5 |
Project 1
V5ish. | |||||||
6 |
★ Furtivus
Sit start on the hueco. Move straight up to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V2 | 3m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
Project 2
V9ish. | 4m | ||||||
8 |
Project 3
V11ish. | 4m | ||||||
9 |
Project 4
V8ish. | 4m | ||||||
10 |
★ Via Appia
Start as for Black Heart. Traverse left and up via crimps to top out. V5 if you use the sloper. V6 if you don't. Much crimpier without. FA: Holger Weichart, 2014 | V6 | 4m | |||||
11 |
★ All Roads
Start as for Black Heart. Traverse left and up via crimps and a RH sloper to top out. V6 if you don't use the sloper. Much crimpier without. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V5 | 4m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★★ Black Heart
Sit start on two diagonal holds. Move out left and then powerfully up to top out. FA: Will Watkins, 2014 | V3 | 4m | |||||
13 |
★ Gout
Start as for Black Heart. Press out right and up to top out. FA: Will Watkins, 2014 | V3 | 4m | |||||
14 |
★ Liam
Start as for Gout, traverse right to top out right of Vespasian. FA: Liam Sansour, 7 Oct 2014 | V4 | 4m | |||||
15 |
★ Vespasian
Wide stand start on big side pulls, move straight up the scoop to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V1 | 4m | |||||
16 |
★★ Titus
Sit start on the crimp rail. Head left out of the cave and traverse left into Vespasian. FA: Liam Sansour, 23 Sep 2014 | V6 | 4m | |||||
17 |
★ The Spoliarium
Titus into Liam finish. FA: Jack Folkes, 25 Jul 2018 | V6 | 4m | |||||
18 |
★★ The Hypogeum
Sit start on the rail. Big moves up the steep wall to top out the hole. FA: Jack Folkes, 30 May 2020 | V7 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
19 |
★★ Vjun
Large bloc opposite the 'Black Heart' boulder. Sit start on the far left of the boulder, some big moves rightward to gain the slopey shelf, before traversing the whole way round to walk off right. FA: Brett H, 22 Aug 2015 | V4 | 6m | |||||
20 |
★★ The Velodrome
Sit start on sloper. Traverse right around the boulder and then top out before you reach the arete of The Circus. The top of boulder is not in. 6m traverse. FA: Liam Sansour, 24 Sep 2014 | V3 | 2m | |||||
21 |
★★ The Forum
Sit start on crimp. Move out left to sloper then up and top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 22 Sep 2014 | V3 | 2m | |||||
22 |
★ The Senate
Sit start on crimp. Big move right to sloper then keep moving up and right to top out. FA: Liam Sansour, 23 Sep 2014 | V3 | 3m | |||||
23 |
★★ The Circus
Wide sit start. Up the arete and top. Burly compression. FA: Jack Folkes, 13 Jun 2015 | V6 | 3m | |||||
24 |
Et Tu Brute
Stand start to easy top out. FA: Inga Weichart, 2014 | V0 | 2m | |||||
25 |
★ Et Tu Sit
Sit start on the slimpy rail. Big press into Et Tu Brute. FA: Brett H, 22 Aug 2015 | V5 | 3m | |||||
26 |
★ Augustus
Sit start on arete. Climb straight up to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 22 Sep 2014 | V0+ | 2m | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
27 |
★ Fed To The Lions
Sit start and climb the arete to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V0 | 3m | |||||
28 |
★ Are You Not Entertained?!
Sit start in the round hole on a LH sloper and RH crimp on the lip. Move straight up following the vague crack. FA: Yianni Barthelmess, 2014 | V1 | 3m | |||||
29 |
★ AD 72
And so it begins... The very first problem of the new crag... Sit start in the round hole on a LH sloper and RH crimp on the lip. Move right along the lip to the blunt nose, then move up through the break to top out. Abit eliminate, the jug directly above the good pebble is out, you can only use the break to the right in the small scoop. FA: Yianni Barthelmess, 2014 | V3 | 3m | |||||
30 |
★ Gluteus Maximus
Sit/laying start on sloper rail. Move straight up via slopers and slopey pockets. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V3 | 3m |
1.13.5. Lime Wall 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.886914, 150.576909
description
Just above the Colosseum on the South side is a limestone looking overhanging wall. Only a handful of problems but very good quality!
approach
Head to the Colosseum then just walk uphill...
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Project 1
Left end of highest ledge of wall. V8/9ish. | 4m | ||||||
2 |
★★ Project 2
Right end of Lime Wall. Sit start in hole. V8ish. Small crimps. | 3m | ||||||
3 |
★★★ If You Like...
Sit start on jugs. Pull straight up into undercling and then traverse right to join Lime and Coconut, finishing leftwards (see that heuco? yes that one) to top out in cave. The sus block jug is eliminated. | V5 | ||||||
4 |
★ Lime and Coconut
Right end of Lime Wall. Sit start low in hole on undercut. Top out into cave. FA: Holger Weichart, 2014 | V4 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★ Dog Days
Sit start on good holds. Move up and left over a bad landing to escape left after 4m or quest on for another 4 for the full top out. FA was done escaping. Full highball yet to be cleaned. FA: Holger Weichart, 2014 | V1 | 4m | |||||
6 |
Endless Summer
Sit start on good holds. Move up and right to escape off right after 4m or quest on for another 4 for the full top out. FA done escaping. Full highball yet to be cleaned. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V1 | 4m | |||||
7 |
★ Endless Summer II
Sit start around the corner to the right. Traverse left and into either straight up problem. FA: Holger Weichart, 2014 | V3 | 5m | |||||
8 |
Project 6
Tops out onto the ledge for Lime Wall. | 4m |
1.13.6. Wasp Wall 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -34.886691, 150.577736
description
Orange streaky wall on the right and head around the corner for a dark bulge-y wall filled with wasps....
approach
Again, just head up from the Colosseum.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
G spot massage
Climb middle of orange streak and up the grey bulge. Bolts drilled but never placed. | 10m, 5 | ||||||
2 |
Psychedelic Adventure
Climb left hand edge of orange streak. Bolts drilled but never placed. | 10m, 5 | ||||||
3 |
Trad project 1
open project. Trad project 1. | 10m | ||||||
4 |
Trad project 2
open project. Trad project 2. | 10m | ||||||
5 |
Trad project 3
open project. Trad project 3. | 10m |
1.13.7. Feather Cave 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.886113, 150.578339
description
Long cave very reminiscent of part of the Wing Cave. Bring out your mantles...
approach
Continue past the Colosseum on the South side. When you get to the waterfall, scramble around on the right side (please be careful especially with pads!) and this will lead you to the end of the cave.
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Mantlemainia...
Mantles abound. Clean and press out what you can... |
1.13.8. D&B 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.886302, 150.578598
description
above feather cave
approach
Follow the obvious cliff line down the gully
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Trouble maker
up the nice looking boulder on the not so nice rock. FFA: Hugh Harrison FA: daryl jones | V0+ | 3m | |||||
2 |
★ propane nightmares
Straight up the darker section of rock. Top out amongst the ashes. FA: Nick urine, 4 Aug 2018 | V0 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★ Hugeh balls
Up the slightly crispy options. Good hold for top out. FA: Hugh Harrison | V1 | 2m | |||||
4 |
★ Whoo! Alright-Yeah uh huh
up the fun stuff. although tempting stay straight big holds on the left at top not in. FA: daryl jones | V2 | 3m |
1.13.9. Pow Wall 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -34.886173, 150.577092
description
Large buttresses above The Colosseum on the North side opposite Wasp Wall.
approach
2 options. 1: Head to the Colosseum first then head up. 2: In Uppers (around THTJB), head north up the hill following a vague path. This joins an old track heading slightly downhill to your right. This track runs just below Pow Wall.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Rain Dance
Sit start and climb the feature to the right of the offwidth. FA while in a downpour while trying to clean the highballs. FA: Jack Folkes, 21 Aug 2014 | V0 | 2m | |||||
2 |
Offwidth Project
Death landing if you fall out of it but doesn't look that hard. Highball. Open project. | 6m | ||||||
3 |
★★★ Pow
Straight up the middle of the slightly overhanging face. Physical crux at the bottom but mental crux at 6m. FA: Jack Folkes, 25 Dec 2015 | V5 | 8m | |||||
4 |
★ Prow Project
Start on the fallen block. Up the broken arete and onto the face with some bad slopers up high. Very highball. Bad landing. | 8m | ||||||
5 |
The Tree
Bulging wall where the tree is. Very highball and very bad landing because of the close proximity to the tree. Looks fun... | 8m |
1.13.10. Pipeline 0 routes in Sector
description
Freestanding boulders around the large pipe.
approach
Continue on past the Pow Wall or (from the old track) just head straight to the pipe, turn right and follow this.
1.14. Big Red 34 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Deep water soloing
Lat / Long: -34.855153, 150.556228
summary
Deep water, great rock and awesome lines.
description
Local cliff jumping spot, Big Red. Main wall is 12m high with the lower wall around 5-6m high. Deep water through nearly every line.
See below for DWS safety rating.
S0 – Safe Solo. This has an area of deep water.
S1 – Pretty safe. Watch out for boulders and water depths.
S2 – Not quite safe. Recommended during high tide. Pick a landing spot carefully.
S3 – Dangerous. You will fall on shallow water which will make your fall painful.
approach
Park at the end of Crams Road, North Nowra. Walk down to river and head downstream (left). Follow this track until you get to the crag.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Scoop Of The Day
S1. Out of the water and dry off on the small ledge right of the small tree. Up and left into the weird scoop. Top out to left. FA: Jack Folkes, 13 Nov 2014 | V3 | 8m | |||||
2 |
Tree Project
S1. Just right of 'SOTD' on the steeper (just overhanging) wall. | 9m | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
Left Proj
S1. Steep bottom section to slopey top half. Underwater rock close to wall, be careful on bottom section. | 10m | ||||||
4 |
Right Proj
S2. Steep bottom section to slopey top half. Visible underwater rocks at low tide along with the ledge to the right. Take care when attempting. | 10m | ||||||
5 |
★★ Sniff My Fingers
Start on the block, traversing left to the big platform and climb the corner crack to top out. FA: Jake Noblett, 2010 | V2 | 17m, 2 | |||||
6 |
★ Lazy Lizard
From shallow ledge up pockets to triangle ledge. FA: Steve Barker, 2010 | V1 | 5m | |||||
7 |
★★ Steve's Traverse
Traverse left from triangle ledge to edge of platform then climb up one meter to the next break and traverse right for 5m and then down climb back to triangle ledge. FA: Steve Barker, 2010 | V3 | 10m | |||||
8 |
Project
S0. Either traverse left from triangle ledge or start from left. Out through honeycomb and up left nose. | 10m | ||||||
9 |
Guano You Didn't
Right to left traverse from the triangle start ledge. Staying in the break as much as possible. Top out under the next roof. S0. FA: Nick Stubbs, 2 Apr 2015 | 22 | 20m | |||||
10 |
★★ Crack Up
Start from water into layoff foot jam crack over bulge and into LTTW finishing at deep 2 finger pockets after last rooflet before the crux on LTTW then backflip into water from dead arm hang. FA: Jake Noblett, 2010 | V4 | 8m | |||||
11 |
★★★ Look To The West
S1. Start on the triangular ledge, move up and left through roof to top just right of arete/nose. FA: Jack Folkes, 26 Mar 2016 | 26 - 28 | 12m | |||||
12 |
★★ Splash Zone
Start from water up pockety overhang to triangle ledge. FA: Steve Barker, 2010 | V2 | 5m | |||||
13 |
★ Diamond Tooth Arete
Start in water on right hand face of arette after 1m climb up arette to triangle ledge. FA: Jake, 2010 | V3 | 5m | |||||
14 |
Mighty Mullet
Start from bottom of cliff and climb the corner to top out. Falling is no option here. FA: Jake Noblett, 1998 | V1 | 10m | |||||
15 |
S3 Project
S3. Spotter 100% needed. Start on the ledge, out and up over the nose. Will definitely go, spotter needed to shove you away from the ledge if you fall. Also ledge at water level. | 6m | ||||||
16 |
★★ Moonlander Arette
S0. Either out of the water or walk in on ledge (dry at lowest tide). Up the arete and over the wedged boulder. FA: Jake Noblett & Lewyy, 2012 | V3 | 5m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
17 |
★★ Back Stage Pass
Follow any line of jugs on right side of main corner starting from water to top out. FA: Jake Noblett, 1998 | V0 | 4m | |||||
18 |
★ No Heroics
S0. Left to right traverse of the lower dark wall (below the rope swing). Done at both low and high tide, you shouldn't be getting wet! | 23 | 50m | |||||
19 |
★ Nice and Sleazy
S0. Start along No Heroics, after the undercut moves at the start, head straight up around the bulge with a weird mantle with monster side pull jugs. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V1 | 3m | |||||
20 |
★ Testicular Fortitude
S0. Traverse in or straight out of the water. Follow the jugs straight up to the slopey ledges, involves 2 precarious mantles... FA: Duncan Brown, 2013 | V3 | 4m | |||||
21 |
★★ Spread Your Wings
S0. Start up Testicular Fortitude and after the first mantle, move right for a lip traverse with a hard sideways dyno. Top out a couple of moves later. Full high lip traverse still a project. FA: Jack Folkes, 2014 | V5 | 7m | |||||
22 |
Dyno Project 1
S0. On the lower wall under the rope swing. Traverse in via No Heroics or climb straight out of the water into a sloping ramp with 2 plants. Big 6+ footdyno from the slightly positive ramp to big jugs on top of wall. | 4m | ||||||
23 |
Dyno Project 2
S0. On the lower wall under the rope swing. 3-4m right of previous dyno and much bigger. Another sloping ramp to an even bigger 7+ foot dyno for worse jugs.... Good luck. | 4m | ||||||
24 |
The Crack
S0. Eliminate using only the crack... Get your finger locks going... | 4m | ||||||
25 |
★★ Capture The Moment
S0. Link from the crack into Cave Left. Follow the crack up (not eliminate) then dyno out right, joining in to Cave Left. FA: Steve Barker, 2010 | V3 | 4m | |||||
26 |
★ Terry Tough Nut
S0. On the lower wall under the rope swing. Starting in the cave, climb out the left hand side following the cave mouth, topping out over the centre of the cave mouth. Might not be climbable at the moment as birds are nesting in the cave and every hold is covered in shit. FA: Jake Noblett & Lewy Joseph, 2013 | V3 | 4m | |||||
27 |
★★ Pillow Talk
S0. On the lower wall under the rope swing. Starting in the cave, climb out right through some tough moves, again follow the cave mouth back left to top out the same as Cave Left. Might not be climbable at the moment as birds are nesting in the cave and every hold is covered in shit. FA: Jake Noblett, 2012 | V4 | 4m | |||||
28 |
Dyno Project 3
S0. Just right of the cave. Double dyno from slopers to slopers. Not big but a hard catch. | 4m | ||||||
29 |
P1
S0. 4-5m right of cave is a large jug. Looks great to dyno from, actually crimp your way straight up and over. | 4m | ||||||
30 |
★★ Kenny on Block
From cave head out right Traverse along the lip of the block and keep going to the no hand rest start of LF just above the tide line. Works the same in reverse good fun dry climbing. FA: Jake Noblett & Steve Barker, 2011 | V3 | 10m | |||||
31 |
Slab Left
S0. Left side of the golden slab, via a nice deep mono to the top. | 5m | ||||||
32 |
★★★ Famous Last Words
S1. Climb through crimps to break below roof, traverse left along the break, then move out along side of roof to big move on nose. Later fuckers! Spoken by Doug on a send attempt falling off the last move. FA: Jake Noblett, 2011 | V4 | 8m | |||||
33 |
★ Precarious S.L.A.B.
S1. Starting from the right, traverse into the golden face. Move up into the roof via some tenuous rockovers. Traverse right to end of roof and over to finish. Direct finish awaiting an ascent. | V4 | 6m | |||||
34 |
★ Bread Knife
S2. Right of the roof. Up the brown wall to top out the same as Precarious S.L.A.B. Not hard but committing as there is a ledge under the landing (starting ledge). Big push off required if you start to fall. FA: Jack Folkes, 15 Nov 2014 | V3 | 6m |
1.15. Bill and Ted's 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
summary
BIG boulders....
access issues
State Conservation Area.
approach
20m walk from the road...
history
Discovered 2013 by Jack Folkes.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
P1
Overhanging arete. Highball. V6ish. | |||||||
2 |
P2
Slightly overhanging face. Highball. V10+. | 5m | ||||||
3 |
P2.5
Crimpy, dyno-y, hard, bad landing. Highball. V10+ | 5m | ||||||
4 |
P3
Steep wall. Highball. Filled with holds. Various lines. | |||||||
5 |
★★ Wild Stallions
Stand start and follow the jugs straight up until the top, trav left a bit to top it out. Spotter on boulder under recommended. FA: Jack Folkes, 26 Mar 2016 | V2 | 5m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
P5
The groove. Highball. | |||||||
7 |
P6
The face. Various lines. Very high. Maybe 9m. | |||||||
8 |
P7
Highball pinnacle. V4/5ish. |