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Summary
Sport climbing with a smattering of Trad in a wilderness location with easy access. A great place to get away from the crowds at Nowra town crags.
Description
This is the original of the so-called New Nowra crags, first climbed on in the 1970s before Nowra or Mt Keira was even discovered! In recent years most of the old routes have been retrobolted and hundreds of brand spanking new lines have been established. Although this is the farthest crag from Nowra town, it is brand new tarmac the whole way (unlike all the other New Nowra crags which require a shitty 2WD or a 4WD).
The climbing is mostly vertical sports climbing varying from 15 to 40+ meters high. Rock quality varies from 1st class Shoalhaven water carved sandstone to sandy choss. Many of the routes have not had much traffic, take care with explodo small holds.
Access issues
BOLTING IS BANNED to the left (south) of the lookout and 100m right of the lookout as this is National Park land. Please avoid climbing on the cliff directly under the lookout, not only will you probably get a rock or beer bottle thrown at you from the tourists, you'll also attract unwanted attention from the authorities! Do not build new rock cairns - apparently there is an $11,000 fine if you do.
Approach
Tianjara Falls - just a bit past Nowra. Turn off Princess Highway as per access to Thommo Point (Kalander St), follow this and turn left into Albatros Road, follow this to HMAS Albatros. Then turn right into Braidwood Rd, continue along this road (it turns into Turpentine Rd) follow the directions to Nerriga. Keep your eye out for the sign for Tianjara Falls. Park in the massive carpark (don't leave valuables in your car). Walk down towards the lookout and follow the trail (right) on top of the cliff towards the crags. The 1st walk down gully is about 2 min walk...
The RTA has recently spent $80 million upgrading the highway from Nowra to Tianjara Falls for the benefit of the sports climbing community!
Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven
Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.
History
Hard to believe that TJF was popular before Nowra or Mt Keira was even discovered.
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Gino Lagazio on ★★ Working Woes of a Worried Wombat 18 - 20170611_115847.jpg
Audrey Vaughan at Tianjara Falls - 47100583_2260844047323454_277228237602422784_o.jpg
Graeme Hill at Orchid Alley - Hill on My Bitchin Rules
★★ Teddy Sprinkles 25 - Mark on Teddy Sprinkles-4910.jpg
Fri 2 Jun
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