Routes in Nowra for selected grade

Line of rings going straight up left of TG16 and right of Bamboozled. Another name for Sword Swallowing Cum Junkies?

4m right of EOSM and left of Offwidth. Stay on face, up to slight left then follow bolt line.

A little runout to start but then easy climbing. If you are feeling strong you can finish with a long hard move to pull up level with the anchors (add a couple of grades) or you can just clip the anchors from below.

2RB's to 2RB anchor.

Start: Start 20m down and right (west) of the bottom of the 'Lookout' 'Access' 'Gully' on the rock shelf directly below the lookout and the well brushed streak.

Links 'No Drama' into 'Melodrama'.

Start: Start as for 'No Drama' but veer left at the 1st RB and continue up 'Melodrama'.

Tricky start , then make you way up the wall, move left when you are above the rock scar. Final hard moves on exposed left nose, reach up high above the crack. 4RB's to 2RB anchor

3RB's to 2RB anchor.

The climb starts on the ledge at the 2RB belay inside the cave on the right hand side of the buttress. However, its best to just belay from the ground, walk in along the ledge and place a long sling on the belay to avoid rope drag. Traverse left past the upper line of RB's to the arête. Continue up the crack before moving right onto the wall. 8RB's to 2RB anchor.

Starts on the left side of the descent gully. Up the orange ramp to the high first bolt. Good moves through the cave lead to an awkward and pumpy finish.

Start left of the cave as per BD.

Very excellent slabbing, with a thought provoking crux.

Start: Start on the juggy bit of wall 4m right of the chimney. Has a new second bolt to protect the ground fall.

Start on the very right end of the terrace next to the big chimney. Climb up past a tricky move at the first bolt, then try some left edge bridging at the 2nd roof to overcome the crux, then cruise your way up (yes 3 roofs on this one).

On left hand arete of turtle wall, laybacking the crack to start and some nice climbing with an exciting finish.

Just right of New Nowra is Old News. Straight up.

Straight up as for Turtle wall, but in the cave go onto the right ledge and out right to the 2nd (or 3rd) ring bolt.

Start at the end of the Turtle Wall (as for Turtle Wall route). Trend up and right for 3 ring bolts then conquer a massive exposed traverse around right that keeps going until a belay station at the end of Ten Gallon Rehab (sharp arete). Technically easy but not for the faint hearted!

Be aware of rope friction and communication between belayer and leader on this one.

A top little route that deserves more attention, and takes on the obvious rounded arete. Finishes at single large U/staple.

Enjoyable stroll, with a tricky start. Will be better with traffic.

Start: Start 2m right of the previous route.

Starts at the crack near the corner. Follow it, then finish on the arete. Short intro to foot jamming and laying back.

Start in the middle of the face at the shallow cave/indent, shares first bolt with Black Adder. Then divert by moving straight up for an awkward exit from the cave. Then move left and up for a slabby cruise. FA: Rod Young

4m right of R. Up, then back lefwards and up to anchors.

Up in the fern garden. Looks hard and junk with stupid bolt placements.

Combo of great fun and varied climbs! Bubba the love sponge: Start on top of pointed rock and move up and then across with hand in the crack. Then move out and around lip and up on face, with stemming options behind. This climb ends on a big u bolt. From here with a long enough rope (I did with 80m, 60m may do it) you can continue onto Dino Club without too much rope drag, doing the 2 climbs as 1. Or do as a multi pitch.

Dino Club: Dino club is an easy fun juggy reward after the somewhat scary bubba. It would be crazy not to do both. The end bolt though is just a normal bolt, without a second anchor bolt which is weird. Either top out or come back down as normal.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Steep big hand crack from top of the pedestal, gradually widening up the slab and through the broken caves above. Top out and walk off or stop at Couch Potato anchor.

Still an unbolted crack. Grab your rack and place some dangling bits of gizmos before the bolters wreck it.

Second line of bolts you come to just past the first major gully.. Short and punchy, so you will need another warm up

Back up the track towards the carpark from ITF

Start: Start just left of the corner.

Chimney climbing.

When you get to Spiderbait, don't continue on into the massive echoey cathedral area (Aptogen/Eptogen inside). Instead go right (towards the river) down a short slot, descending a few metres, then walk left (Eastish) for 15 or so meters under a large high arched roof. At the Eastern end look up for the obvious chimney/cave. The topo is more an indication - you can't see much of the climb from the front, but without 3D I thought tracing the actual route would make people think it was a face climb.

The first bolt is about 5m up a pretty friendly scramble, then continue up into the cave, then squeezing left to 3 belaying bolts about 15m (half-way) up.

Use them.

Running a >60m rope all the way up to the top is possible with your belayer on the ground but unwise. There are so many twists on the way, so much rope out, and most importantly the final anchors are pretty much over the top, so the rope drag/friction means the belayer can't give any slack at all - to get down the climber has to pull the toprope up all the way to be able to descend. And then it's impossible to pull the rope once they're down.

Instead put yourself on protection and belay your partner up (a little cramped, but there's enough of a ledge to stand on near the mid-point bolts). Finish the climb from there worming up though several meters of chimney, and then some easy slabbing back out on the face to finish. Even belaying from half-way there's still heaps of resistance after cleaning because of the unhappily placed final anchor bolts, but at least it makes it possible to get your rope back.

Just make sure you're comfortable with belaying from above and then lowering yourself from the midpoint bolts to finish after you've dropped your partner back down. Also the climber is often out of sight.

Easy enough moves on a long novel climb, but you have to manage all this annoying friction just for the small reward of a few unmemorable metres after the chimney.

Climb the slab beneath the cave passing a nice flake. Continue above cave tending slightly left to a flake, then back in line to lower-offs.

Start: Start 2m right of BW

Undercutting stand start right of arete, move straight up via presses and ledges.

Extra bolt added in runout. Add a little spice (and interest) to the climb with a more direct start - you don't need to do the big right hand easy move if you work out a little sequence.

The obvious mega classic sit start to the most popular route in the world. Warm up your tendons first this 17 is a little spicy.

This also stores the current record information for the Silver Hands speed record. Silver Hands but speedy. Top rope speed climbing Silver Hands. Rules: One foot on the ground and you only have to slap the chains. God speed.

Start 1.5m right of DD. Thin start.

por favor. stick clip first ring and climb short steep wall on jugs. would be great if it were longer.

Start: 2m right of Six day war

2 metres right of Cereal Killer, up through gold towards the honeycomb roof.

Start: on right side of pyramid shaped block Climb right side of block to ledge then up hand crack to off width and up to cliff top. TRAD

Sit start on arete. Climb straight up to top out.

up the nice looking boulder on the not so nice rock.