Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wide Bay Burnett Auburn River National Park The Terrace Boulders | |||||
V0- | The Warm Up
Traverse the lip of the boulder to the high point. FA: John Newby | ||||
Wide Bay Burnett Auburn River National Park Godfreys | |||||
V0- | Hoover Arete
Sit start on juggy flake, up the arete. FA: Oliver Rickford, 12 Jul 2023 | ||||
Wide Bay Burnett Indian Head | |||||
14 | ★ The Nudie Bar
| 12m | |||
13 | Lipstick
FA: kenny b | 10m | |||
14 | ★ Poochung
FA: kenny b/zane f | 10m | |||
Wide Bay Burnett Mt Walsh National Park Mt Walsh Mank Factory | |||||
14 | ★ Mushroom Overlords
Set: zac, 2 Aug 2021 FFA: Rachael Trembath, 2 Aug 2021 | 25m, 5 | |||
Wide Bay Burnett Mt Walsh National Park Mt Walsh UnderWorld | |||||
14 | Slabtastic
From ground level scramble 4m up to ledge with good shade, the climb starts here. A few pieces of gear will lead you to 3 FH and DBB, best to extend the belay to the better ledge. This is an access route to the Chossageddon and Choss Monster. FFA: Zachary Trembath-Pitham & Josiah Hess, 4 Aug 2021 | 30m, 3 | |||
Wide Bay Burnett Mt Walsh National Park Mt Walsh Watchtower | |||||
14 | Sketchy
An ugly chimney! FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham, 2016 | 15m | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Terracotta Warrior | |||||
13 | Pottery Class
Start at R end of pillar. More easy fun climbing. 4 UBs and lower-off. FA: Glenn Ferguson & Tim Rowe, 2010 | 12m, 4 | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Lost Village Main cliff | |||||
14 | ★ Better homes and gardens
Up crack, tend right around bulge then left to anchors. Watch for rope rub on the way down. Shares anchors with Rail Mc Railface FFA: Justin Pedersen & Jarred, 2017 FA: Justin Pedersen & Jarred, 2017 | 9m, 3 | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Lost Village Left wall | |||||
14 | I bolt boulders
FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham FA: Zac Trembath-Pitham | 7m | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Lost Village Right wall | |||||
14 | ★ Vulvo
Up bulge to gain small ledge and clip first bolt, up fun features to anchors. FA: Peggy & Justin Pedersen, 2017 FFA: Braden Pearce & Jarred, 14 Feb 2018 | 10m, 3 | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Lost Village The Lost Boulders Modern Baseball | |||||
V0- | ★ First Base with Grandpa
Sit start on the left hand side of Diamond traverse up and right to top out. FA: Oliver Rickford, 5 Nov 2021 | ||||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Black Stump Buttresses | |||||
14 | ★ Girls Have Nuts Too
Start as for Bio-orgasmic Plasma Gun, traverse left at the ledge, then up the off-width. Top out and tree belay. FA: Lauren Hunter & Lee Prescott, 2 Oct 2021 | 10m | |||
14 | ★ Found the Salt
Up R side of small buttress. Five U-bolts to lower-off shared with OL. FA: Matt Butler & Colin Carstens, 2008 | 13m, 5 | |||
13 | ★ One Legged Dog
Start at the same U-bolt as for Snake Charmer but veer right Keeping right of black strip. 7 U-bolts to Double U-bolt belay. FA: Colin Carstens, 2007 | 18m, 7 | |||
14 | ★ The Dog's Paw
Start around the corner from 'One Legged Dog', on the right side of the small cave. Follow 6 U-bolts to the DUBB of OLD. FA: Colin Carstens, 2007 FA: Colin Carstens, 2007 | 15m, 6 | |||
13 | ★★ Crack Chaser
Alright pro with an exciting topout before clipping the Anchor. Uses Sun Chaser's lower off. Start: About 1 meter left of 'Sun Chaser', straight up the crack. FA: Terry Forbes & Oliver Rickford, 2010 | 16m | |||
14 | Good for a Lifetime
6m right of Via the Rainbow. Climb pockets to ledge. Up face to slopey exit. Poor pro. More of a solo. Anchor off gumtree. FFA: Za & Rainbow, 18 May 2018 | 11m | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Eagle's Nest | |||||
14 | Lilliputian
The obvious finger crack 20m from the road. More of a protectable boulder problem than a climb. FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991 | 6m | |||
14 | ★ Giftzwerg
15m L of L. Up to L of crack. FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991 | 8m | |||
14 | ★ Rumpelstilzchen
Up the orange streak 2m L of G. FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991 | 7m | |||
14 R | ★ Piccolo
Up fine seam at black streak at L end of this wall. Poor protection. FA: FSA Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 1991 | 6m | |||
13 | ★ Reid Road Rally Race
Up the sloping ramp on good holds to a set of big Brooyar rings on top. | 14m, 6 | |||
14 | ★ Travails of a Tripping Termite
Long (pointless?) traverse. Start: Starts off the block at the start of The Girl Who Lives On Heaven Hill. FA: Saul Squires & Dani Geraghty, 1993 | 30m | |||
13 | Meandering Maze | 35m | |||
14 | ★ 2 For Tea
Top-out at abseil rings 4-6. Headwall might be a bit stiff for the grade, use extenders on the last two bolts to reduce drag if belaying a second. FA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 1998 | 32m, 9 | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Green Lane | |||||
14 | ★ Tom's Turnips
Start just about 1.5m left of 'New Day Rising' in orange corner. Head straight up eventually ending at the anchor of 'New Day Rising'. The gear is actually quite good, it takes various bits of gear including slings, nuts, hexes and small cams (to 0.5 C4), a set of tri-cams from black to red is very useful for the pockets. The gear at the start is a little finicky to find but it's there. FFA: Tom Kjaer-Olsen, 2014 | 15m | |||
13 | The End Is Nigh
10m L of NDR up the juggy, lichenous slab past three FHs. FA: Keri Green & Dani Geraghty, 1993 | 12m, 3 | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Hammerhead Rock | |||||
13 | Skipping Bolts
Follow the chimney up and right, with good pro in the crack at the back. Top out on right above narrow offwidth and continue up to top of hammerhead rock or set up Trad anchor in cracks. FA: Lee Prescott, 9 Apr 2021 | 9m | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Point Pure | |||||
13 | ★★ The Great Barrier Reef
Fantastic location at a moderate grade, apparently has a history of being used to serenade enthusiastic new lady climbers. Start: Rap off left-side (facing in) of prow to DBB. A bit of trad gear can make the hanging belay stance a bit more comfortable. FA: Dave Whitworth & Michael Long, 1993 | 20m | |||
14 | ★ Suddenly Sober
3m L of YHIFOP, starting at rooflet with big flakes and jugs (crux). Clip two rings while moving up on jugs to third ring and good wires. Up to rooflet and fourth ring. Step L around roof and top out. Classic! Doable on RBs only, with a decent runout in the middle; make sure you're solid at the grade if doing this. FA: Ross Ferguson, Geoff Osborne & Ben Carter, 2004 | 20m, 4 | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar The Wolf's Lair | |||||
13 | ★★ Bio Logic
A moderate grade swim through the lichen. Start: Rap down to tree belay at base of two arêtes. FA: Dan Meyers & Neil Monteith, 1997 | 12m | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Intense Aioli Crag | |||||
14 | ★ Passably Cute Warrior Princesses
The hand/fist crack in the corner just R of the small tree growing at half height. Top belay off solid gum trees FFA: Daniel Peatey & Rick Helm, Oct 2015 | 9m | |||
13 | ★ The Red Hulk
The layback flake just R of PCWP. The topout move is a little spicy. Takes red C4's. Belay off large gum trees. FFA: Rick Helm & Daniel Peatey, Oct 2015 | 9m | |||
14 | ★ 41 degrees in the shade | 10m, 4 | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Enchanted Forest Saeldr | |||||
V0- | Nature Spirit
FA: Raven, 7 Nov 2021 | 4m | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Enchanted Forest Rainbow | |||||
V0- | La Roca
The Rock FA: Raven, 3 Nov 2021 | 2m | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Enchanted Forest Moon | |||||
V0- | Wonder
FA: Raven, 14 Nov 2021 | 2m | |||
V0- | Adventure
FA: Raven, 14 Nov 2021 | 2m | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Enchanted Forest Phoenix | |||||
V0- | Wolf-skins
FA: Raven, 12 Nov 2021 | 2m | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Enchanted Forest Sky | |||||
V0- | Munin
Memory FA: Raven, 7 Nov 2021 | 1m | |||
V0- | Hugin
Thought FA: Raven, 7 Nov 2021 | 2m | |||
V0- | Engill
Angel FA: Raven, 11 Nov 2021 | 2m | |||
V0- | Astin Min
My Love FA: Raven, 7 Nov 2021 | 2m | |||
V0- | Gebo
Rune FA: Raven, 11 Nov 2021 | 2m | |||
V0- | Hagalaz
Rune - Sit start FA: Raven, 10 Nov 2021 | 1m | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Enchanted Forest Wolf | |||||
V0- | Algiz
Rune FA: Raven, 11 Nov 2021 | 2m | |||
V0- | Fjldskyldu
Family FA: Raven, 18 Jan 2023 | 6m | |||
V0- | Lofti
Air FA: Raven, 7 Nov 2021 | 2m | |||
V0- | Dreki
Dragon FA: Raven, 12 Nov 2021 | 2m | |||
V0- | Ehwaz
Rune FA: 10 Nov 2021 | 1m | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Enchanted Forest Hrafn | |||||
V0- | Mannaz
Rune FA: Raven, 10 Nov 2021 | 3m | |||
V0- | Center in Divine
to find Truth FA: Raven, 10 Nov 2021 | 3m | |||
Sunshine Coast Brooyar Farmer and Sun | |||||
14 | ★ The boulder Oinky
A boulder with bolts and jugs with a lower off on cliff face FA: Justin Pedersen, 2019 | 4m, 2 | |||
Sunshine Coast Buderim Buderim Village Park Holistic Detective Agency Boulder | |||||
V0- | ★ Time Travel
Sit start on side pull and crimp, balance your way up the arete. | ||||
Sunshine Coast Buderim Buderim Village Park Green Egg Boulder | |||||
V0- | ★ Eggcited
Sit start as per Scrambled Eggs, then traverse left avoiding the block below, top out at highest point. | 3m | |||
Sunshine Coast Buderim Buderim Village Park Norsk Pillar | |||||
V0- | Bjørnen
Stand start on lower part of the face then climb up on juggy sidepulls to topout. FA: Sam Bycroft, 26 Oct 2022 | 2m | |||
Sunshine Coast Buderim Mons School Road Park The Blocs | |||||
V0- | ★★ Hot Feet
Start on the left most nubbin with excellent low feet. Straight up avoiding the flake on the left. Works well no-handed. | ||||
V0- | ★★ Tree Knob
Sit start matched on crimp jug. Straight up using the tree knob sloper to mantle FA: Oliver Rickford, 8 Jul 2021 | 2m | |||
Sunshine Coast Buderim Mons School Road Park Dinosaur Slabs | |||||
V0- | Brachiosaurus
Climb left side of slab. FA: Crofty11, 8 Aug 2021 | 4m | |||
V0- | Brontosaurus
Climb line to R of Brachiosaurus FA: Crofty11, 8 Aug 2021 | 4m | |||
Sunshine Coast Buderim Mons School Road Park Nose Bloc | |||||
V0- | Veggies
stand start both hands on undercling. reach up to ledge then mantle to the top. | 2m | |||
Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Tibrogargan Slider Wall | |||||
14 | Monkey Swallows The Universe
Starts at the base of the tree and goes up the arête. After that, head L and follow the obvious seam up to chain. Two bolts then small cams and wires. FA: ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2006 | 15m, 2 | |||
Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Tibrogargan Celestial Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Heliosphere
Up the slab passing ten FH's to rap station. For the descent, a doubled 60m rope will get you to a ramp where you can scramble off (care!). Start: About 25m L of Aphelion's first pitch, just R of the access track. Marked with a small, scratched 'H'. FA: Phil Box, 2004 | 35m | |||
Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Tibrogargan Caves Route Sector | |||||
14 | Faith
Start: diagonally up and to the left of the start of the Caves Route at a small flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs, about 18m down from the apex. Marked "F". This is an exposed and poorly protected route. This is the original 1955 description. 70yrs on, trees may have disappeared and new ones grown. Additionally; there's been significant rock fall in this area, so route finding may well be challenging.
FA: Bill Peascod, Neill Lamb & Julie Henry, 1955 | 96m, 5 | |||
14 | Faith - Variant Finish
Start: diagonally up and to the left of the start of the Caves Route at a small flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs, about 18m down from the apex. Marked "F". This is an exposed and poorly protected route. This is the original 1955 description. 70yrs on, trees may have disappeared and new ones grown. Additionally; there's been significant rock fall in this area, so route finding may well be challenging.
From here, exit up & right, across vegetated ledges above Carborundum Chimney to access the Caves Route below Trojan. FA: Bill Peascod, Neill Lamb & Julie Henry, 1955 FA: Hugh Pechy & Dennis Stocks, 1966 | 110m, 5 | |||
13 | Prometheus III
| 13m | |||
Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Tibrogargan Summit Caves | |||||
13 | ★★★ Trojan
1
13
14m
2
13
14m
3
13
15m
4
13
15m
5
13
15m
Start under the main section of overhangs, and wander up the slab to a big 'T' marker in a cosy groove. A stunning old time classic through some very imposing country. Most people look at the route and think 'How can this be a 13?'. Keep in mind that the first ascentionists climbed the route wearing sand shoes in 1966! A grand testament to the pioneers of old.
FFA: Les Wood & John Tillack, 1966 | 73m, 5 | |||
13 | ★ Short And Sweet
This climb takes the obvious right-leading slick corner. Atmospheric climbing. Protection on the route is technical to place, and is sparse at the start so be careful not to slip off. Bring some big gear for the upper crack. Natural Belay at top. Two 50m ropes will get you back to the ground. You descend straight down over The Digital Revolution. FA: Les Wood & Ted Cais, 1966 | 35m | |||
13 | Jupiter
| 39m | |||
13 | Juno
| 30m | |||
Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Tibrogargan Desperation Wall | |||||
14 R | Welcome To The Choss Road
An easy but badly protected outing. A great adventure for the discerning choss jockey. The FA was completed (just!) in two pitches (running 1-2 and 3-4 together). Note that this was not at all comfortably done on a 70m rope - if you're going to do this as two pitches I would only recommend doing so on an 80m rope.
FA: Jake Forker & MisterS, 15 Mar 2020 | 140m, 4 | |||
14 | ★ Vagabond
| 150m | |||
Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Tibrogargan Candy Mountain | |||||
13 | ★ Kind To Be Cruel
Variant start to Cruel to be Kind. (First bolt missing) start up blocky overhanging start to second bolt then links into cruel to be kind shares anchors with DITR. Set: FFA: Zac Trembath-Pitham & Nigel Joyce, 2014 | 12m, 5 | |||
14 | ★ The Magical Liopleurodon
Missing the first bolt. Up on good jugs passing two FH and tree on right hand side to ledges. Then up passing another 2 FH to anchors. Often dirty after rain. FA: Steve Kloske, 2014 | 12m, 4 | |||
14 | ★ After Dinner Delight
Start 2m R of More Smart More Safe, marked “ADD” Some nice, flowy climbing through 6 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with More Smart More Safe. Stick clipping the first bolt will protect the low crux. FFA: Steve Kloske, 2014 | 12m, 6 | |||
14 | ★ Banana King
Start 1m R of Critter Christmas, marked “BK” Jug hauling past 5 FHs to a shared DBB. Anchor is shared with Critter Christmas. A high first bolt may warrant a stick clip. FFA: Oskar Kindbom, Nigel Woodward & Steve Kloske, 2013 | 12m, 5 | |||
Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Tibrogargan NE Buttress Sector | |||||
14 | ★ Escape from NEB
1
14
30m
2
13
35m
A traverse that deserves a description. First used by FA party of North-east buttress to escape the route before the aided crux section.
FA: P. Conaghan & G. Hardy, 1965 | 65m, 2 | |||
13 | ★ Blabbermouth VS
Start at L-trending crack 3m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress'. While this is nominally the variant start to 'Blabbermouth', it's so much better than the original that nearly everyone begins 'Blabbermouth' this way. Follow the crack, solid gear placements abound. Merges with the original a few metres before the DBB. FA: Darrin Carter & Ross Ferguson, 2005 | 22m | |||
Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Tibrogargan Shadow Glen | |||||
13 R | ★★ Tribulation
An excellent, but somewhat bold, 2nd pitch to The Black Planet. Weave up the slab above the rap anchor finding gear and holds where you can to a tree belay at the top of the wall. Excellent marbled rock in the middle. Can easily be combined with the first pitch into a single megapitch®. FA: Neil Monteith & Karl Curnow, 1996 | 25m | |||
14 R | Vege Abattoir
A bold wall first climbed as a solo. Start 2m L of 'Armageddon'. Up slab and over small roof then traverse R to 'Armageddon' anchor. Marginal protection but nice rock. FA: Neil Monteith, 1996 | 13m | |||
Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Tibrogargan West Face | |||||
13 | Felp II
FA: 2004 | 300m | |||
14 | Microtome
The first known technical route on the south west corner of Tibro. This corner is bisected by a scrubby ramp that traverses diagonally up from right to left, starting under a vertical section of the cliff on the south face proper. Below this ramp, a buttress comprised of relatively clean and smooth slabs can be found, and this route takes a direct line up those slabs to end on the scrubby ramp. To find the start of the route, take the usual access track to Slider gully and bushbash around the base of the mountain. Alternatively, it is fairly easy to follow the Trachyte Circuit around the mountain until a low point on the trail with an abundance of ferns. The buttress can vaguely be seen through the shrubbery, so make a beeline through moderately dense bush to the base of the wall.
Descent: One can scramble down to the right, although it is quite vegetated. A faint path also leads up and left, eventually connecting with the Tourist Track and a short descent to ground level. FA: 1973 | 100m, 3 | |||
Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Tibrogargan South Face | |||||
14 | ★ Rain Drops
| 45m, 2 | |||
Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Ngungun Andromeda | |||||
13 | ★ More Dark Matter
Immediately left of the Coal Sack crack system. Follow ring bolts to the anchor. FA: unknown Set: David Reeve, 2014 | 17m, 4 | |||
14 | ★ Event Horizon
Start 2m L of 'Lunar Eclipse'. Marked "EH". Climb straight up right of the large loose block, then tend slightly left above this, to the DBB shared with SD. 4 RBs. Rebolted 2014. FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010 | 17m, 4 | |||
13 | ★ Star Dust
Start 3m L of 'Event Horizon'. Marked "SD". Follow 4 RBs straight up left of the large loose block, trending right above this, to finish at the DBB. Shared belay with EH. Rebolted 2014. FA: Heinz Buscher, 2010 | 17m, 4 | |||
13 | ★ Orion's Belt
A traverse using the bolts of the various climbs. Start at 'Black Hole', 2m L of 'Orbital Tether'. Marked "BH". Clip the 1st bolt on 'Black Hole'. Then traverse R clipping:
Then up tending left to the 'Star Dust' DBB. FA: Heinz Buscher & Sandra Buscher, 2010 | 25m, 5 | |||
Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Ngungun Lower Cliffs Flat Battery Wall | |||||
14 | ★★ Lithium Grit
Start 3m left of bad move, up to bulge (med cam) in crack below bulge, then move up and slightly right with care to lose looking block (ground-fall) keep climbing place a nut in slot, then up to crack (small cam) and finish on jugs. FFA: B.Cobb, 25 Jul 2014 | 10m | |||
13 | ★ Flat Battery
The original Queensland easy sport route! R of 'Charger'. Runout start to high RB then superb fishbowl jugs past a second RB to lower-off anchor on the right. When first bolted this was quite controversial (bolts on a 13!) but in the 21st century it's considered quite runout! Rebolted 2015. FA: Darrin Carter & Grant Bucknell, 1993 | 14m, 2 | |||
13 | ★★★ Electrochemical
Start in the middle of blank face R of Sexy Legs. Hardest moves off the ground, easier as you go up. | 15m | |||
14 | ★★ Spilled Milk
Start 2m right of 'Roof Climb'. Climb straight to the top staying within the band of rock covered in white lichen. FA: Unknown | 13m | |||
Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Ngungun Lower Cliffs Closed The Cave | |||||
13 | Passive Action
| 17m | |||
Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Ngungun Upper Cliffs The Upper Main Cliff | |||||
13 | ★ The Chossmaster
A mini-adventure fun ramble of vintage accent that takes you from the bottom of the Main Upper Cliffs to the summit proper. May well have been soloed before. The route is the most intuitive and protectable line from beginning to end. Please refrain to trundle blocks, the instability and precariousness over the exposure of some section add a great alpine-like feel to the route.
| 78m, 4 | |||
13 | ★ Angie
Marked 'A'. Just L of 'Sticky Fingers' at the obvious flared chimney. Bridge smooth chimney with good (albeit small) pro in the R crack to the ledge with tree and bolted anchor or continue up 'Hex Heaven'. Set: S. Bell, B. Overs & D. Gilleson, 1971 | 18m | |||
13 | ★ Deep Purple
Marked 'DP'. Up corner crack and good protection to ledge with chains. FA: Steve Bell & Dave Kahler, 1972 | 35m | |||
14 | ★ Leaning Tower
Marked 'LT'. Start up the nice hand crack but this soon turns in a wide off-width. At the widest point, squeeze through the crack and chimney up to ledge. Rap off or continue up one of the crack lines above. FA: Steve Bell & Dave Kahler, 1972 | 27m | |||
14 | Ultra Violet Catastrophe
Marked 'UVC'. Sunscreen optional. The obvious angled off-width on the right side of the leaning pillar. Good pro and sustained climbing all the way to a tree belay. FA: Dave Kahler & Steve Bell, 1972 | 23m | |||
Sunshine Coast Glasshouse Mountains Mt Ngungun Upper Cliffs Nursery Cliff | |||||
13 | ★ Dishonour Before Death
Marked 'DD'. Pocketed corner that gets progressively easier, with one small cam placement halfway up. FA: Neil Monteith, 1995 | 10m |