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Mt Edwards

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 4
2
AU

Seasonality

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Summary

Adventurous climbing with a few hidden gems. Similar to surrounding rock such as Maroon and Frog

Description

Most routes have been climbed but no guides have been made. Find your own line and enjoy!

Access issues

The caves to the north west of the summit are an indigenous site. Probably why no climbs have been logged. Please stay away from this area.

Approach

Park at lake Moogerah Picnic Area. Hike across the dam and up the Mt Edwards track. Near top of track bush bash to the top of the cliffs and rap down.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

30m (15) - Slightly thought provoking moves off the deck but it eases up after that. Be careful of rock fall as the seconder, some choss about. Belay in corner at top of crack on solid gear.

25m (12) - Push up to the left around corner to large bushy ledge with crack in back right corner. Use tree belay or gear in good crack.

35m (14) - Money pitch! Arcing hand crack with windswept jugs whenever you need 'em! Crack widens close to the top and turns into boulders. Belay off good boulders or trees on large bushy ledge.

40m (-) - Bush bash up through scrub heading right before a small 3m scramble off the the left leads to the base of an awesome chimney with questionable rock quality.

30m (13) - A surprisingly great finish to the climb! Despite the poor rock quality at the base, this pitch has solid gear with a small crack running up the back of the chimney. Push up the chimney , enjoy the musical tones of your hexes clanging on the ironstone rungs and squeeze past the final boulder protecting the exit.

Mega four to five pitch multi up a king line in the middle of the Mount Edwards East face. Will be awesome with more traffic. Features one of the best pure splitter hand corner cracks around! Excellent rock quality other than some blocks that would require trundling and some thin pieces of rock. Half ropes recommended if combining pitches 2 & 3. Single rack to #4 camalot, recommended double cams + hexes if combining pitches 2 & 3.

Start approx' located at: (-28.014207, 152.545096)

  1. 35m Start at the base of the mildly vegetated corner featuring a hand crack to the small tree to start. Some truly awesome moves involving crack and chimneying. Belay on large ledge with tree to sit on, belay in cracks.

  2. 20m Up the corner crack with wobbly blocks on the inside of the crack. Up this for 5 - 8m then move left up ramp and push behind and past the small tree. Up the splitter corner crack to a stance with cave on the left. Cam belay in crack or combine with the third pitch for a mega line.

  3. 30m A 3 star pitch on it's own. Climb past dead vegetation in crack (to be removed). Take a deep breath and punch through the relentless corner crack to a rest in a cave at 3/4 height. Continue up the crack to the roof. (There is a large somewhat secure but hollow block at this roof, be cautious of placing gear between it and the wall, would be good to get trundled at some point). Move out left onto the face and hanging belay in cracks or punch upward to the large tree.

  4. 25m Push upwards from the tree and up vegetated chimneys, towards the right generally and belay on large ledge/wherever possible.

  5. 30m Roped scramble to the top of the cliff

FA: Dylan Glavas & Lee Prescott, 18 Aug 2023

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 2 Jun
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