Routes as boulder in Australia

Rat Salad into Rat Poison. Mega!

Sit start on edges, bust out the roof via shouldery moves and finish up right. Either downclimb or shuffle along the shelf to top out.

Stand start, big move to lip and mantle.

Sit start with udercling and crimp, up to edge and throw for sloper. Head left on slopers and mantle. Low right foot ledge is out. Bit crumbly but still worthy.

The creme de la creme. Sit start on crimp, punch up then across right and up a series of shallow pockets via a rad cross move, finishing on jug under the bolt.

~8m to the right of Zeus, start on the block with the odd pinch inside. Out left to shallow pocket, big lockoff to sidepulls and finish directly above on flat edge.

A brilliant complex roof problem. Located 1 minute's walk downhill - left of the 'Sweet Sensation' cave. Sit-start right at the back of the cave, and climb out, down, and around to a cruxy finish out on the lip.

Blue Mountains-like rock and style. Sharp, crimpy, steep and a great landing.

As for 'The Beginnings...' then break right and up via extreme undercling move to the slopey break.

Low sit-start and up via a big move leftwards. Possibly lost some holds since the first ascent.

Start: 3rd climbing cave along from the 'Sweet Sensation' area.

Left-trending line from a low sit-start into the finish of Elephant's Swing.

Furthest most problem right of Nelly. Potential for more problems exist in the same area.

Broken looking holds right of 'Click'. Very low sit-start.

Obvious (grim) mantle problem a couple of metres left of Lazy M's finish. A couple of other variations exist here as well.

Choss!

Highball (6 metres) slightly overhung face route. Crux is the first move (big) but a tricky finish awaits.

Old Klem Loskot project which was expected to be the hardest dyno in Australia; the FA went to Nalle Hukkataival and its status as hardest dyno may have been subsumed by a few hard problems Nalle put up in Buandik, 'Massive Dynamic' and 'Pigeon Superstition' at the Citadel.

A very long traverse starting from the big flake then motoring right along the horizontal weakness - finishing up 'John Deere'

A variant of the 'The Farmer Traverse'. Do the same start, then use the higher line of holds to finish on the sloper to the left of the finishing jug of 'The Farmer Traverse'.

A lot easier than the original?

Tricky warm up (or testpiece) starting from the big down-sloping 'jug' and climbing up via an obvious slopey pocket to the big finish break.

Sit start on the same holds as Caterpillar. Move left to a crimp and an edge before making a big move to the break.

Sit-start on the low flake and small arete hold - then up via a 'triangle' pinch hold to the big break. Originally given V4.

An 8-move traverse into a big dyno.

A huge, technical dyno starting from a sit-start, then up to the big sloper and higher crimp - then the sharp lip jug. The hardest dyno in Australia?

Another dynamic problem.

Wolf/Liew

Overgraded? jug haul starting from a sit-start then up the right-trending flakeline - to cut back left via a horizontal slot - then the top.

Starts as for 'Karl' - but keeps traversing right - to a big move for a lone crimp up and right - then the top. Beware of the thin lip holds!

Takes the obvious flakeline through the big roof (see pic below), uphill from 'Helmut'. Yet another dynamic problem.

Originally put up as 'Ummagumma' (also at V13) starting in the 3-finger pocket - Klem added the first (hard) move a week later. Previously V14 until Nicole repeated it in a single day.

The original problem from a standing start - to mantle the finish.

Starts on the RH face (sit) - left of the 'Sausage' crack weakness.

Sit-start on large flat jug under the roof (same start as for Strammamax) - then head left around onto the face - and up crack weakness.

Classic low traverse starting from the large LH flat jug under the roof - then heading rightwards via a big hueco and an even bigger sloper (crux) - finishing up the Endamax'. Desperate for those of short stature...

Starts on the big chalked slopey hold under the hanging arete (left of Lost For Life). Up via a pocket in the roof, then undercling to a good jug. Has a reputation for being nails hard for the grade.

Sit-start on the big hueco pocket - then head directly out through the big roof and up the thin face - to finish on the obvious jug line. Thin.

Start on Strammamax and into Endamax. Traverse into and finish on Lost for Life

Very solid; as shown by Fred Nicole in the classic EOS2 video (or more recently by James Litz in Dosage 3).

Stand start on the obvious wide crimp rail. Finish as for LFL.

Sit-start from a poor RH undercling and an incut LH 'pocket' - massive span move out right to the arete of 'Nice Max' - then finish as for this problem. Positive ape-index recommended!

Sit-start from a low 'horizontal and slightly higher (LH) one - then motor up the left-trending vague arete using crimps - until you can lock up and right to a big pocket/jug. Solid at the grade.

Vague sit-start in the middle of the wall - then up the central line via a small sloping feature and shallow pocket. As fingery as it gets.

Good looking sit-start problem near the RH arete leading up to an obvious jug.

Same start as Cock Toe, traverse left and ride the edge of the toe to top out.

Sit-start and climb out of the cave. Top out through the gap through weird mantel. V3-4 if you drop off the jug, V5 if you top out. Beware chossy hold/chockstone on top out.

Start as for Scary Monster and traverse left from as high as the first pocket, around the arête and up the slab.

Isolated highball problem away from the main 'Citadel'.

Callum

Start as for SM, but avoid the pocket and stick to the arête. Slightly contrived, but offers some impressive and committing climbing.

Kyle Meredith-Peck

Possibly the traverse completed by Dai Koyamada - starting from the V2 start hold - then traversing right to the finish of 'Mad Max' - unconfirmed.

in a small 'toilet' cave directly behind ammagamma 20m, stand start matched in left pocket, big move right to pocket then directly up to slot, top out through gap in roof. very good could have been done eons ago but couldn't find any history on it.

Start on the left hand sidepull and right hand crimp.

Start: Sit-start left of the 'Cave Club' cave.

A direct start to 'Skim Milk' - finishing as for that problem.

Start as for Full Cream and make a big throw right to blocky holds trending up to finish at the highest hold on the face. Good and dynamic.

monkeydoing channel

Start as for 'Cave Club' and head left.

Hiroaki

Name History: Affenschaukel - German feminine noun meaning looped plait (Brit) or braid (US).

Start as for 'Apfenschaukel', but head right through a big gaston move. 2nd ascent was quickly made by Toni Lamprecht in about 5 minutes!

Starting right of 'Cave Club' and heading rightwards across the wall. Still unclimbed?

Heads straight up just right of the start of Sultans of Swing. Pending details.

Traverse left on large pockets. Follow line of pockets down around the arete and corner (reversible at the same grade).

Sit start at base of crack. Pocket and crimp to ledges and jams. Fun!

standing start on crimp and gaston. (much harder sit start looks good)

Standing start. Up wall on side pulls and layaways to a pinch at 5m, then 'hero' jugs to the top. Fun! Spooky.

Start up Crouching Leopard Hidden Orchid to the crux then head left to the pocket of the V3-4. You only get the V7 if you traverse into the V3-4 above the side jug and don't use it.

Start below Live long and Prosper he'd diagonally left and then up the blank grey wall

Start as for Vulcan Grip and head left and up increasing in difficulty to a final mono before popping to the welcome jug

Sit start. Make the sign, then up rightwards to flake/pinch. Up. Fun!

Up prominent 'mini' corner via finger lock.

Up and left via rail and seam.

Rail to jug over rooflet (via blank wall). Fuel up the rocket boosters!

Sit start, then up side pulls/undercling to crimp to high jug. Continue up right with a big reach or pike left. Great fun!

Hard 3 moves - Sit start still waiting to be done

Start as for Too Much Candy when it heads back right head out left to a good hold in the streak then up

Sit start then up left via rail to pocket then up wall above veering slightly back right. Traverse off right or up through spooky gargoyles.

Sit start to crimps. Up.

Climb the underbelly and out to the left of the Echidna! Sit-start as for Echidna's Nose with LH low on left arete and RH on good crimp. Stay low and make tension-y moves out left to the juggy flake. From here, make a hard move to the good crimp rail, and then powerful moves into the scoop. Finish up trending left. Eliminates obvious broken ledges and pedestal ledge.

Starts the same as The Echidna's Underbelly until the juggy flake. From the juggy flake, make a big move up and right to more jugs without using the obvious right arete (i.e., don't use holds from Echidna's Nose). Eliminates obvious broken ledges and pedestal ledge.

The overhanging arete on the lone block in the middle of the crag. Exit on the left side of the nose. Eliminates obvious broken ledges and pedestal ledge.

Sit start with left hand on square positive sidepull (I presume this problem was first done long ago).

Stand start to climb arete. (I presume this was first done long ago)

Only climbs on RHS of big seam.