Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Trackside/Hammer Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ Mallet
Stand start in dish on the left and up through nice edges and slopers to underclings. | 4m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders The Playground | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Line on Track Face, First Boulder
| ||||
V3 | One
Traverse the lip. | ||||
V3 | ★ Two
Sit start the steep line on the left of the cave. | ||||
V3 | ★★ Four
Sit start in the back of the cave and take the right line out. | ||||
Victoria North West Arapiles Bard Buttress | |||||
23 R | Malfunction Man
Committing roof then up to a ledge shared with 'Orpheus'. Now traverse R to a rap anchor (which may or may not exist or be useable). Start: Start R of RT. FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Colyvan, 1983 | 30m | |||
23 | Bbruce
Up E until you have a roof on your right. Traverse R here, then up over bulge past BR and straight up to the nice ledge atop 'Eurydice' p1. Start: Start as for E. FA: Mike Law & Greg Garnham, 1981 | 35m, 1 | |||
23 | Noseburger Direct
Overall grade is 23, but it's not clear how hard each pitch is. Start: Start 2m L of P.
FA: Mike Law, Mike Law-Smith & Geoff Robertson, 1981 | 80m, 3 | |||
23 | Poppies pitch 3
Described separately so that 'Poppies' pitches 1 and 2 get noticed as a great 19. This pitch is all over after the start so it's not worth doing ... unless it's your best option to impress a hottie bumbly hanging around on Bard Terrace. Start: Start on the Bard Terrace, a few metres L of the final pitch of Bard. FA: Mike Law or Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 30m | |||
22 | ★★ Wall Street
| 25m | |||
22 | Turning Point
| 10m | |||
22 | ★ Heavy Dudes
| 35m | |||
22 | Wall Turning Dudes
Each pitch was established independently, and you can repeat them that way if you wish. Linking them into one route is the way to go, however. Start: Start R of The Bard.
FA: p1 Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1980 FA: p2 Mark Moorhead, Tony Dignan & Geoff Little, 1980 FA: p3 Mike Law, Chris Baxter & Greg Garnham, 1981 | 75m, 3 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs John's Pinnacle | |||||
23 | Homegrown
Start at the arete just R of Allez. Up to BR then into crack which takes you R around the corner. FA: Mark Moorhead & Ian Anger, 1980 | 25m, 1 | |||
23 | Nostalgia
Start on the west face of the pinnacle. Stick clip bolt, veer R, then back L. Apparently has a fragile undercling. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 20m, 1 | |||
23 | Piggy in the Middle
Up Shoadee for 4m, then traverse L to brief ramp (BR). Up middle of black wall. FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1986 | 27m, 1 | |||
23 R | Handle with Care
"Start variant 2m right left of Let Me Cry" - whatever that means! FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998 | 8m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Denim Wall | |||||
22 | Vixen
Start at the L end of Denim Wall.
FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976 | 45m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ L7s
Avoids the desperate crux of See You Round by starting to the right at the hole. Bridge up 5m and clip the bolt on the L. Swing L around the arete (wire and tiny cams) to a mega jug and then up and R, move back L to crack through bulge, and then R again to finish at chains. Big holds and very steep. Not really sure of the grade, just a guess. The rock and the moss on this are not of the best quality, be cautious on it! FA: Douglas Hockly, 13 Dec 2015 | 15m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Minor | |||||
22 | Locksmith
Start 5m R of Bulger DS.
FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn (alt), 1980 FA: Rod Young & Ant Prehn (alt), 1980 | 42m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Raison d'Etrier
Start on the ledge R of Locksmith (which is also the start of pitch 2 of Vixen).
FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979 FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979 | 30m, 2 | |||
22 | Dead and Buried
Start just R of Rd'E, as for Vixen pitch 2.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Glenn Tempest & Jeff Lamb, 1981 FA: Mark Moorhead, Glenn Tempest & Jeff Lamb (pitch 1 only), 1981 FFA: Kim Carrigan & Chris SHepherd, 1982 | 30m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | |||||
23 | Dancing Days
1m R of ML.
FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham (Young later added p3 on), 1979 | 45m, 3 | |||
22 R | The Last Laugh
Start 4m R of Aristocrat. Easily up corner to a ledge, then step L and pull through roof to boldly clip a BR. Now a bulge. FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1981 | 25m, 1 | |||
22 | ★★★ Scorpion Corner
A low roof then into the beautiful corner. The gear is adequate but it's critical that you get certain pieces just right as they are a little spaced at times. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Ed Neve, 1974 | 25m | |||
22 | ★★★ Scorpion Super Direct
Links Scorpion Corner into Scorpion, possibly the way Hot Henry Barber did it. For full value and the full tick don't step onto the ledge at the top of Scorpion Corner but instead go through the steep roof crack on good jams to enter Scorpion after the step across. | 50m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Blockbuster Ledge | |||||
22 | The Cat's Whiskers
Straight up to bulge, step R, up to ledge. Now the small corner up the great headwall (small wires). Start: Start as for W. FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1993 | 30m | |||
23 | ★★ Quo Vadis DF
From halfway along the curved crack of QV, go straight up then finish L. Start: Start as for QV. FA: Simon Mentz, Stuart Williams & Jared McCulloch, 1990 | 8m | |||
23 | ★★★ Kama Sutra
Start as for Scorpion. You can also approach by traversing in from the right, from the base of Anxiety Neurosis.
FA: Chris Baxter, 1968 FFA: Henry Barber, 1975 | 42m, 2, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||
22 | ★★ Anticipation
Start 2-3m L of Missing Link.
FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1981 | 45m, 2 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | |||||
23 R | ★★ Blah Blah Blah
A pretty awesome bit of rock which sees no action since a bolt pulled out. Start 1.5m R of Missing Link and 5m L of Station to Station. The bolt has been replaced, but is within reach of a long stick clip, otherwise the first gear is a fair way off the ground. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 35m, 1 | |||
23 | ★★★ Despatched
Start just R of Thunder Crack. Groove past bolt to stance. Move R to next bolt then go up until you're under the roof. Now go 8m R and down a bit to a rap station. Old schoolers can top out, everyone else can take the easy option and rap off. The rap rings are starting to age out (as of 2023). FA: Mark Moorhead & Col Reece (starting up TC), 1980 | 40m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Missus Abeat
Up Despatched to its first traverse (2nd FH). From here, traverse R all the way to Bulger. Take heaps of RPs. FA: Mark Moorhead & Col Reece, 1980 | 30m, 2 | |||
22 R | ★★ Unrequited
Start 15m down R of Thunder Crack. Crack to pocket, R to jug, up to break and lower-offs. The pro is not great. FA: Greg Child & Kim Carrigan, 1978 | 15m | |||
22 | Bulger DS
Start 4m R of B. The steep weakness with a desperate exit. FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1980 | ||||
Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | |||||
23 | ★★ Fall Out
Double ropes are mandatory as pitch 1 takes a devious wandering line through some daunting territory. Also note that pitch 1 can be climbed in isolation as there is a rap anchor just right of the first belay. Start: Start just R of 'Eagle Cleft', at the top of the easy initial slabs.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Kevin Lindorff (although p4 was previously done by Mike Law & Glenn Tempest), 1978 | 97m, 4 | |||
23 | Kick Start
Thin crack, move R under roof, then pull through roof. Up wall to ledges and traverse R along these to the 'No Future' rap anchor. Start: Start 1.5m R of' 'Marbuck'. FA: Mike Law, 1982 | 30m | |||
22 | ★★ You Can't Stop the Gobble
Start: Start as for 'Kaiser'.
FA: p2 Kevin Lindorff & Phillip Armstrong, 1978 FA: p3 Roddy McKenzie, Craig Nottle & Graham Sanders, 1981 FA: p1 Louise Shepherd & Julia Butler, 1989 | 71m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ No Future Direct
Up 'No Future' to the bulge then, instead of traversing R, continue straight up to a (new) bolt (as of late May 2015). Pull the bulge and step R to finish up the line. FA: Louise Shepherd, Tim Day & Nick Neagle, 1991 | 30m, 1 | |||
22 | ★ Eat More Meat
Shallow groove to thin crack, then L to next crack and up it. Start: Start 2m R of VGU. FA: Eddy Ozols, Mark Moorhead & Rod Young, 1980 | 30m | |||
23 | ★★ Tough Titties
Trend rightwards into the hanging groove via a hard boulder problem (wires then bolt). Further technical moves (2 more bolts plus small cam) lead to easier ground and lower-off. Start: Start just right of 'Resignation' 1st pitch. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2004 | 20m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Rubber Neeples
Start right of Tough Titties below a rooflet / blob sticking out at about 6m with a bolt below it. Up to the blob and past it then up and left to chains. Nice rock. FA: Douglas Hockly & Duncan McGregor, 2012 | 18m, 1 | |||
22 | ★ Diving Deep
Good climbing on the top pitch which may be little easier with addition of a bolt. Start as for Velvet Green and Mother Brown, midway between Yo Yo and Kestrel,
FA: Kieran Loughran & Louise Shepherd, 1988 | 60m, 2, 3 | |||
23 | ★ Nakablitz
Quite an attractive climb up the steep narrow buttress right of 'Yo Yo'. Start: Start as for 'Falcon'.
FA: Mike Law & Mark Colyvan, 1983 | 57m, 2, 2 | |||
23 | Problem Child
The left arete of Phoenix has a hard boulder problem low down amongst a lot of easier climbing. FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Shepherd, 1979 | 50m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | |||||
22 | ★★★ Boy Racer
A fabulous route that is one of the harder 22s about. From 3rd Belay of Syrinx, head up to the hand traverse leading left to overhanging corner. Up this to reachy step left around roof then meander to top. FA: Greg Child, Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1978 | 30m | |||
23 | Hard Chat
| 28m, 1 | |||
22 | ★ Exit Stage Left
As for Break a Leg. When at basin, move leftwards past bolt(19) to lower off. FA: Geoff Little, Aug 2017 | 35m, 1 | |||
23 | ★★ Break a Leg
All trad. Start at seam 2m left of Broken Song up past bulge. Up line to headwall and into shallow basin stance, wish yourself good luck then step right into seam and up on small holds to lower off. The finish seams unlikely and is committing. FA: Geoff Little, Aug 2017 | 35m | |||
22 | ★★ Headbanger
This good continuation for 'Broken Song' finally tackles the big overhang above the big diagonal pitch of 'Syrinx'.
FA: Esther Bollinger & Simon Mentz, 2008 | 120m, 4 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Senior Citizens Wall | |||||
23 | Working Girls
Good, thin climbing up blankest section of the wall. FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1983 | 15m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Crankshaft Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ Left Wall
A few variants sit starting off the obvious chalked Holds around left from Waterboys. Climb straight up then off right to jugs (easiest) or drift left up face towards arete. A harder variant (V4ish) heads hard left from the start heading towards juggy flake via a couple of crozzly slimps. | ||||
V3 | ★★ Leftshaft
Start as for Left Wall moving right and up to exit as for Crankshaft. | 8m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Waterboys XL
Climb Waterboys, upon arrival at the finish/lowering jugs heave up to gain and exit via the flake system as for Vague Corner. | 10m | |||
V2/3 | ★★ Sit the Waterboys
Sit start to Waterboys via a dino from the steep juggy rail. | 7m | |||
V3/4 | ★★★ 'Boys Light Up!
Start as for Sit the Waterboys finish as for Waterboys XL. Alternate sit start variants from Left Wall, Pushrod and Head Gasket all around the same grade and quality. | 7m | |||
V2/3 | ★★★ Lavender
Start as for Sit the Waterboys moving up and leftish to finish via the easier section of Left Wall. | 6m | |||
V2/3 | ★★★ Watershaft
Start as for Sit the Waterboys moving right and up to exit as for Crankshaft. | 8m | |||
V3 | ★★ Pushrod
Sit start from the two pockets moving up and leftish via jugs to mantle the bulge direct, exit as for Crankshaft. | 5m | |||
V3/4 | ★★★ Head Gasket
Sit start from the pockets as for Pushrod to jugs, next moving up to and right traverse the juggy rail before a tricky mantle up the steep central gully just left of Crankshaft. Exit direct or move right and up via Waterboys XL for the extra half grade. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Grandstand
Sit start matched on the low rail of right wall dead pointing up good holds to finish direct up the slabby bulge and groove. | 5m | |||
V3/4 | ★★ Thirst Corner
Start as for Grandstand to the finger jugs then low traverse right under the bush into and up Corner Arete, Pumpy! | 9m | |||
V3 | ★★ Drifter
Cool lowball climbing as for Grandstand/Thirst Corner continuing low right traverse to exit via ramp and slopers. | 7m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders Gonzo Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ Caesar Midget
| 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Jump or Bear it.
Sit start as for Caesar Midget, but straight up (ignoring holds on/around arete) to big sidepulls either via bloody sharp holds or bloody big moves. Top out. Probably done before, please change details if you know them. FA: Paul Thomson, 12 May 2015 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★ Russell Crowe
| ||||
V3 | ★★ Gonzo Reverso
Sit start as for Caesar Midget, then low traverse right reversing Gonzo Gladiator to finish on high jugs at right end of face. Probably done before, please change details if you know them. FA: Rob Medlicott, 12 May 2015 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Gonzo Gladioli
| ||||
Victoria North West Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Boulders The Chicken Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ No. 4
| ||||
V3 | ★★ V3
Jump to the poor hold and straight up | 5m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Castle Crag | |||||
22 | Acrobat
Latch onto the hanging flake just L of Trapeze's start, then finish up the wall R of 'Trapeze'. FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Marian, 1978 | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Swinging LHV
Fun! Climb Swinging to second bolt then step left and follow weakness to top. Good wires protect the crux. FA: Andrew, Andy Schmutter & Geordie Webb, 27 Jan 2019 | 15m, 2 | |||
22 | ★ Siva
An interesting, albeit short route managing to squeeze in hand jamming, finger locking, an undercling, sidepulls, a mantle (of sorts) and a delicate traverse in its first 6 metres. Clip the first bolt and traverse off L to Swinging, then up. Start: Up the pillar 2m R of Swinging. FA: Roger Caffin, John Zmood & Margaret James, 1966 FFA: Greg Child., 1978 | 12m, 1 | |||
22 | Apocalypse Now!
Up the the seam past a fixed peg. Start: Below the wall with 'Red Baron' is a tiny seam. If you can't find it you might need a microscope. FA: Mark Moorhead, Mick Colyvan & Marty Beare., 1983 | 5m | |||
23 | Red Baron
Climb the face just R of the arete. Start: Traverse in the the base from under Procul Harem (easy but exposed). Start at the far L of ledge. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter FFA: Henry Barber., 1975 | 18m | |||
23 | Red Baron Direct Start
Probably one of the first routes at the grade in the country? These days it rarely gets repeated. Start: To the R of 'Blow Up' is a poorly protected groove. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1968 FFA: Henry Barber., 1975 | 18m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | |||||
23 | Interstitial
Face L of Factoids, with a crux 3rp that is best placed on abseil. I'm going to put a bolt in. Traverse L after crux to finish up crack, rap off Llareggub chains. FA: Douglas Hockly & Paul Deacon, 2009 | 15m | |||
23 | Nothing
Pretty contrived. Start: Just R of 'Bastress'.
FA: Mike Law-Smith (pitch 1), Mike Law & Steve Howden (pitch 2)., 1982 | 25m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ Catch This
Up Catch 22 intil bolt on R can be clipped. Dive R for the catch, then layback the desperate flake to the arete and finish in the chimney. Start: As for Catch 22. FA: Mike Law & Ian Anger, 1982 | 15m, 1 | |||
22 | Passion
Use pocket to get past the arch and then continue up to bulge (bolt). Pull through this (crux) and then ramble on to the top of the crag. This is a complete sandbag - much harder than 22 and the bolt is rusted and looks rubbish. Start: About 8m L of 'Boomer'. FA: Mark Moorhead & Lincoln Shepherd, 1983 | 25m, 1 | |||
23 | ★ John and Betty
A popular sport route (but you may wish to take some gear for the finish). Stepping left into Boomer for the first half is quite unavoidable. Start below the orange wall near the highest point of the arch, and follow the line of fixed hangers. FA: Kieran Loughran, 1992 | 23m, 5 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area New Image Wall | |||||
22 | ★★ Continuum
Up the wall past some thin crux moves, finishing R of rooflet (which is a bit loose). Start: 10m L of 'Fault Line' and 2 m R of hanging black rock a few metres off the ground. FA: Peter Newman, Kim Carrigan & Mark Moorhead, 1979 | 25m | |||
23 | ★★ Fault Line Direct
The direct line up the clean wall, joining FL at the end of it's traverse. Perhaps add a few grades if you are under 5'9"? FA: Gareth Llewellin & Jessie Rushbrooke, 26 Jan 2015 | 25m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Loading Zone
From jug, head up wall to L end of roof. Struggle around this, move R and up thin crack (spaced pro). Start: 5m L of 'Fault Line' is a large jug. FA: Mark Moorhead, Peter Newman & Kim Carrigan, 1979 | 25m | |||
22 | ★★ Hidden Secrets
Bouldery start up arete leads to a steep flake. Start: 2m R of 'Fault Line' is a hanging arete. FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead & Peter Newman, 1979 | 25m | |||
22 | ★ Linear Transformation
Companion line to 'Hidden Secrets' Start: 4m R of 'Hidden Secrets'. FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd & Peter Newman, 1979 | 25m | |||
23 | ★ Crayons
Another bouldery start, this one with little to no gear. Up wall then finish up seam just L of top crack on 'Crooked Mile'. Good luck. Start: 4m L of small chimney. FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1981 | 25m | |||
22 | ★ Blackguard
Up CM to the break, then continue up black wall above. When it eases, move diagonally L to rap station. Start: As for 'Crooked Mile'. FA: Glenn Tempest, Lucas Trihey & Seamus Brennan. (Independent start was soloed by Kim Carrigan), 1981 | 25m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Rats Alley | |||||
22 X | ★ Blyth Street Direct Start
Climb straight up to the bolt on Blyth Street (after it's traverse), then continue to the top as for that. Do not fall. Start: A few metres R of 'Rats Alley'. FA: Warwick Baird, 2000 | 12m | |||
23 | ★ Crystal Prophet
Original start was to bridge up chimney then swing onto R face with no gear! For some reason these days people clip the bolt on Crystal Vision and go L to the flake - still a bit bold. Up flake till it ends and move L and up to an exciting exit. Walk R to rap from 'Tarantula' anchor. FA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff & Peter Watson. (Mike Law climbed alt start in from R using a high runner in Tarantula), 1982 | 15m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | |||||
23 | Gimp's Turn on Top
Not the line with the carrot bolts just R of CA. FA: Andrew Collins & Paula Keeno, 1998 | 24m | |||
23 | Nausea
Up crack to bulge, step R into 'Voodoo' (at kink). Head up (tricky) and L into easy crack. Start: 1m L of 'Voodoo' is a crack. FA: Jim Van Gelder & Colin Reece, 1979 | 40m | |||
23 | Black Magic
Overhanging L arete next to pitch 3 of Voodoo. Start: Ledge after pitch 2 of 'Voodoo'. FA: Malcolm Matheson & Dave Mudie, 1989 | 10m, 1 | |||
23 | Heaven Scent
You might get to smell it yourself if you fall off this one... Start: 4m L of 'Sound Chaser'. FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead, 1981 | 30m | |||
23 | No Stone Unturned
Up SC, then move R into seam (bolt). Start: As for 'Sound Chaser'. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 20m, 1 | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Waste of Space Gully | |||||
23 | ★ Seething Well's Cheesy Foreskin
Up the wall and thin crack R of WOS to a bulge. Move R to shallow capped corner then exit L. FA: Russell Chudleigh, John Lattanzio & Phil Parker, 1984 | 15m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Dead-point Wall | |||||
22 | So Much For Willpower
Some people just can't resist a new route. Short line around left of the main face, at the right end of the side facing Grotto Wall. Hard finish. FA: Rob ? & Dave Moss, 1987 | 8m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles Voodoo Area Ministry Wall | |||||
23 | ★★ Big Brother
Up and over hard bulge to ledge. Follow steep flake right to large jug. Dyno up left and up face. Start: Start 3 metres right of 'Undercover Agent' FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead & Peter Newman, 1979 | 25m | |||
Victoria North West Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | |||||
23 | ★★ Bent DF
Avoids the last hard bit of Bent. It's thought that this finish might be where Bad P2 went (before the bolt!). Climb the majority of Bent, until the point where that route steps left across the void; instead, go up the round arete on good edges past a bolt. | 40m, 1 | |||
23 | ★★★ Birdman of Alcatraz
Considered by many to be the best 23 at 'Arapiles'. Start where the dominant flake/line reaches the ground. Follow the line, except at halfway where you need to traverse L for a few metres below the flake before going up to rejoin it. Staying with the flake is reachy 25. FFA: Kevin Lindorff FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth (aid), 1969 | 30m |