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Südverschneidung Mostly Trad climbing 4 routes in sector

4
UIAA
8-8+910-10+

Seasonality

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
9- Südverschneidung Trad 320m, 7
1 8 30m
2 6- 20m
3 9- 45m
4 9- 25m
5 7+ 35m
6 8- 30m
7 6+ 30m
8 100m

FA: G. Baur & W. Rudoplh, 1989

FFA: M. Murr, 1992

2
FR:8b+ Sangre de Toro Mixed trad 230m, 7, 7
1 7c 50m
2 7a 20m
3 7b+ 35m
4 8b+ 35m
5 8a 20m
6 6b+ 35m
7 2 35m

Gear

  • Dragon Cam: 00, 0, 2 x 1, 2, 3, 4
  • Small Set of Wallnuts
  • Double 60m Rope
  • 10 Quickdraws
  • Slings to reduce rope drag

Descent

When abseiling over the route, Alex Luger recommends to leave a tagline on the 4th pitch. Without it, it is complicated to reach the belay. Or take the easy descent via the east ridge of the mountain.

https://alex-luger.blogspot.com/2014/04/clip-and-topo-of-sangre-de-toro.html

FA: Alex Luger, Günther Winkel, Robert Natter & Konrad Mathis, 2012

FFA: Alex Luger, 2012

3
10 Zeit zum Atmen Sport 230m, 7, 30
1 9 55m
2 9+ 25m
3 10- 20m
4 9+ 20m
5 9- 45m
6 10 35m
7 10 25m

FA: W. henke, P. Jutz, C. Pock, D. Tscharbrun, M. Tschol & T. Ortmann, 2001

FFA: Jörg Andreas & Armin Buchroithner, 2006

4
8- A2 Gerhard Sprandl Gedächtnis Weg Trad 220m, 5
1 7+ 50m
2 8- 30m
3 6- 35m
4 8- 50m
5 A2 55m

FA: A. Oswald & W. Henke, 1969

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Alpinkletterführer Vorarlberg

Author(s): A. Pasold

Date: 2021

Der Kletterführer Vorarlberg beinhaltet gleich fünf Gebirgsgruppen: die Bregenzerwaldberge, das Lechquellengebirge sowie Teile von Rätikon, Silvretta und Verwall.

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Sportkletterführer Vorarlberg

Author(s): S. Lindemann

Date: 2020

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Kletterführer Tirol Plaisir

Author(s): A. Jentzsch-Rabl, A. Jentzsch

Date: 2020

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Fri 26 May
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