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Ascents in Hochwiesler Südwand

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Showing all 27 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Sun 18th Feb 2024 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Via Anita - with M.D.
1 5 30m Trad
2 6 30m Trad
3 4+ 25m Trad
4 5- 20m Trad
5 4- 25m Trad
6 5 20m Trad
7 4+ 25m Trad
8 5- 25m Trad
Mixed trad 200m, 27 Very Good
Jonas O.-D.
Zweite SL feucht, daher A0. Ich hatte in SL 4 Wegfindungsprobleme. Für Bohrhakenverwöhnte: Gefädelte Schlingen sind meist kein "Unfall" oder einm Rückzieher, sondern Teil der Absicherung.

 
Mon 9th Oct 2023 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
8+ ~9- Polarstern - with Fabian Michel
1 8- Sport lead by Frithjof Winkelmann

Already not easy for the grade, face climbing on some small crimps (for comparison, this pitch felt harder than pitch 5).

2 7+ Second lead by Fabian Michel
3 8+ Sport lead by Frithjof Winkelmann

Felt super hard, I couldn't even do all the moves - comparing this to Gelbfieber, this pitch could also be graded at 9-

4 8- Sport lead by Fabian Michel

Also quite hard for the grade.

5 8+ Sport lead by Frithjof Winkelmann

Best pitch of the route. This felt relatively easy compared to the other pitches (maybe the second easiest pitch of the whole route?). The crux consists of one very reachy move on quite good holds.

Sport 150m Good
Frithjof Winkelmann
Very weird grading on this one, feels like holds broke out on a few pitches making them quite hard for the grade.

 
Sun 8th Oct 2023 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
7 Pavelas - with Fabian Michel Sport 140m Average
Frithjof Winkelmann
The two harder pitches are almost one move wonders. Lots of choosy Rock in between.

 
9- Gelbfieber - with Fabian Michel
1 8+ Second lead by Fabian Michel
2 8+ Sport lead by Frithjof Winkelmann
3 7+ Second lead by Fabian Michel
4 9- Sport lead by Frithjof Winkelmann
5 8- Second lead by Fabian Michel
Sport 100m Mega Classic
Frithjof Winkelmann
Compared to other routes in this area this route is awesome - steep, athletic climbing on mostly good holds. Rock is choosy, but since a lot is glued in this doesn't impact climbing that much. The crux pitch was a bit above my onsight level - crag gloves might be helpful here.

 
9- Gelbfieber - with Frithjof Winkelmann
1 8+ Sport lead by Fabian Michel

Too difficult for me without any warm up, also mentally, even though protection is quite good.

2 8+ Second lead by Frithjof Winkelmann

Nice pitch, first a pumpy traverse on a series of big holes, then straight up and slightly overhanging. Had to rest once.

3 7+ Sport lead by Fabian Michel

A traverse on a ramp with chossy rock and then an overhanging part with good holds (the rock is glued).

4 9- Second lead by Frithjof Winkelmann

Better rock quality and a very nice pitch. First, a traverse to the left on slopers and a far reach up into a crack. Face climbing after the crack. Somehow did not have any energy left at this point and could only do a few moves in a row, even on good holds.

5 8- Sport lead by Fabian Michel

Slightly overhanging climbing leading into a crack. I also didn't have any energy left for this pitch.

Sport 100m Very Good
Fabian Michel
Nice climb, but very chossy in the first three pitches. However, all key holds have been glued and the route has been cleaned, so almost everything is solid now, it's more that it looks chossy. Continuously overhanging on yellow rock. Would be a classic for me if the rock quality was better.

 
7 Pavelas - with Frithjof Winkelmann Sport 140m Good
Fabian Michel
Inhomogeneous, the 7- and 7 pitches are easy apart for about 2 meters of climbing. There are also quite a few parts in chossy rock.

 
Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
8+ Polarstern - with Frithjof Winkelmann
1 8- Second lead by Frithjof Winkelmann

Slabby. Small holds and small feet at the end, I fell three times at almost the same place.

2 7+ Sport lead by Fabian Michel

Nice face climbing, and the rock quality is relatively good (for the area).

3 8+ Second lead by Frithjof Winkelmann

Very hard section on small and sharp holds, then a nice steep finish on good rock.

4 8- Sport lead by Fabian Michel

Ridiculously hard single move for the grade (getting over a bulge with few holds), then very easy through grassy terrain.

5 8+ Second lead by Frithjof Winkelmann

Best pitch of the route. First a slabby part, however there are always quite good holds and then a steeper part with one reachy move. I had to try this move three times before making it, using different handholds than Frithjof Winkelmann.

Sport 150m Good
Fabian Michel
The last pitch is the best, the quality of the other pitches is mixed.

 
Sat 15th Jul 2023 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Via Anita
1 5 30m Second
2 6 30m Trad
3 4+ 25m Second
4 5- 20m Trad
5 4- 25m Second
6 5 20m Trad
7 4+ 25m Second
8 5- 25m Trad
Mixed trad 200m, 27
Mathias Woltery
Fri 14th Jul 2023 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
5 Via Anita P1
1 5 30m Trad
Mixed trad 30m, 27
Mathias Woltery
Fri 7th Jul 2023 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Alte Südwand - with Fee Mixed trad 200m, 6
Marius Janosel
Mon 29th May 2023 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Alte Südwand - with Benedikt, josef Mixed trad 200m, 6 Mega Classic
Cathy Schummer
Thu 28th Oct 2021 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Via Anita - with Erdmann Käppeler
1 5 215m
2 6
3 4+
4 5-
5 4-
6 5
7 4+
8 5-
Mixed trad 220m, 27 Mega Classic
Aaron Schart
Sat 21st Aug 2021 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Alte Südwand Mixed trad 200m, 6
Maksim Sednev
Fri 13th Aug 2021 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Via Anita Mixed trad 200m, 27 Very Good
Florian Denz
Tue 27th Jul 2021 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Via Anita
1 5 30m Second
2 6 30m Trad
3 4+ 25m Trad
4 5- 20m Trad
5 4- 25m Trad
6 5 20m Trad
7 4+ 25m Trad
8 5- 25m Trad
Mixed trad 200m, 27
Ketie Saner
Sat 29th Jun 2019 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Via Anita Mixed trad 200m, 27 Very Good
Peter Roßmanith
Tolle Route mit einer Traumhaften Aussicht. Sehr zu empfehlen.

 
Mon 10th Jun 2019 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Alte Südwand Mixed trad 200m, 6 Very Good
Robert Buschlinger
Sun 5th Jun 2016 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Via Anita - with Flori Mixed trad 200m, 27 Very Good
Gaisbachjodler
Wed 1st Jul 2015 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
8b Halteverbot Sport 140m
Angy Eiter
MSL mit vier Längen

 
Sat 10th Jun 2006 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
7 Pavelas Sport 140m Very Good
Zdenek Moravek
Wed 5th Apr 2006 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Alte Südwand Mixed trad 200m, 6 Very Good
Zdenek Moravek
Direct variant

 
Mon 18th Oct 2004 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
7- 6+ Schuster Führe Mixed trad 210m, 8 Classic
Zdenek Moravek
7 Welcome to Verdon Sport 100m, 8 Classic
Zdenek Moravek
Thu 14th Oct 2004 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Alte Südwand Mixed trad 200m, 6 Very Good
Zdenek Moravek
Tue 11th Nov 2003 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Via Anita Mixed trad 200m, 27 Very Good
Zdenek Moravek
Thu 15th Aug 1996 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Alte Südwand Mixed trad 200m, 6
Oliver Wolter
Sat 15th Aug 2020 - Hochwiesler
Hochwiesler Südwand
6 Via Anita Mixed trad 200m, 27
Oliver Wolter

Showing all 27 ascents.

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