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Planspitze

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Routes

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Grade Route
1 2
2 2+
3 2
4 2-
5 2
6 1 - 2
7 1 - 2
8 3-
9 2
  • easiest ascent through the 'Planspitze' north face; with its length and loose rocks it should still not be underestimated

FA: E. Pichl & F. Panzer, 1900

1 5 50m
2 5+ 50m
3 5 15m
4 6- 48m
5 6 45m
6 6+/7- 48m
7 4 46m
8 5 50m
9 6+ 50m
10 5 50m
11 6+/7- 50m
12 7- 50m
13 5+ 50m
  • crosses 'Pichlweg' in the 9th pitch
  • can be exited in the 10th pitch, to avoid the last 3 pitches with more loose rock

FA: J. Gstöttenmayr, J. Hack & R. Gsöllpointner, 1997

1 4- 30m
2 4 20m
3 4+ 25m
4 5 30m
5 5+ 40m
6 4 35m
7 2 40m
8 2 45m
9 4 35m
10 5+ 40m
11 5 40m
12 6- 35m
13 5 40m
14 3 30m

FA: K. Hoi & W. Almberger, 1978

1 3+ 35m
2 2+ 45m
3 1+ 30m
4 4 25m
5 6- 45m
6 5 40m
7 5+ 30m
8 6- 35m
9 4+ 35m
10 5- 40m
11 6+ 30m
12 3 35m
13 6 30m

Each belay has one bigger bolt. Some bolts in the route (harder pitches well protected).

https://www.thomasbehm.at/pics/topos_xeis/topo_xeis13.pdf

FA: Hoi K. & Stelzig H, 2000

1 7 35m
2 7 35m
3 7- 45m
4 5 45m
5 5+ 40m
6 6- 30m
7 4+ 35m
8 5- 35m
9 6+ 40m
10 3 30m
11 6 35m
12 30m

This is a direct start following Optima in two pitches to the ledge and then directly connecting to the original route in the first pitch above the ledge.

1 4+ 20m
2 6+/7- 20m
3 7 45m
4 6+ 25m
5 6 35m
6 6- 45m
7 6+ 50m
8 5 55m
9 5+ 55m
10 3 - 4 40m
11 2 20m

https://www.thomasbehm.at/pics/topos_xeis/topoxeis_10.pdf

FA: K. Hoi & H. Stelzig

1 5 50m
2 6 30m
3 8 A0 30m
4 8 A0 20m
5 8 A0 40m
6 4+ 50m
7 2 - 3 80m
8 8- A0 25m
9 8- A0 20m
10 6+ 30m
11 6- 25m
12 7+ A0 20m

FA: M. Fluch, St. Fluch, Ch. Pitzl & Ch. Enrdl, 1990

1 3+ 35m
2 3 45m
3 1 - 2 30m
4 4 25m
5 4+ 45m
6 3 - 4 45m
7 3 - 4 45m
8 3 45m
9 3 25m
10 3+ 45m
11 3 45m
12 4+ 35m
13 2 35m
14 1 - 2 30m

FA: K. Jilek & H. Menzinger, 1923

1 3+ 35m
2 3 45m
3 1 - 2 30m
4 6- 25m
5 5+/6- 25m
6 5+ 30m
7 6- 30m
8 5 45m
9 4 30m
10 4 40m
11 5- 45m
12 3 55m

FA: K. Hoi & H. Stelzig, 1974

1 3+ 35m
2 3 45m
3 2 20m
4 6- 50m
5 4 25m
6 6+ 40m
7 6 40m
8 4 35m
9 6- 30m
10 5+ 40m
11 4 40m
12 5+ 50m
13 1 - 2 80m

On Aug 12th 2023 we spotted quite some stones falling down this route. Perhaps from climbers moving at the finish ledge. Please, be careful climbing and walking up the ledge!!!

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/konkurs-planspitze/

1 5+ 35m
2 5+ 30m
3 7- 45m
4 4 25m
5 6 25m
6 4 45m
7 5- 40m
8 6 40m
9 5 20m
10 6 35m
11 1 - 2 200m
12 5 50m
13 6- 30m
14 4 30m

FA: K. Schagerl & R. Wagner, 1985

1 5- 50m
2 6+/7- 45m
3 6+ 45m
4 6- 50m
5 6 30m
6 7- 40m
7 5+ 30m
8 7- 40m

FA: J. Unterberger & M. Strimitzer, 1992

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Reinmüller & Hollinger

Date: 2021

Kletterführer-Bildband mit reichhaltiger Bebilderung und hoher Qualität der Toposkizzen / unglaubliche Routenvielfalt in beeindruckenden Wandfluchten / derzeit 1.040 bekannte Mehrseillängenrouten in alpinem Gelände

Author(s): Christoph Klein & Jürgen Winkler

Date: 2023

ISBN: 978-3-95611-182-2

Hört, seht und staunt - alles in allem warten hier 120 Pause-Touren! DAS ultimative Werk für Extremkletterer und für alle die von den ganz großen Kletterrouten der Alpen träumen (wollen).

Im extremen Fels - Die "legendären" Alpinklettertouren in den Alpen

Author(s): Adi Stocker

Date: 2014

ISBN: 978-3-95611-022-1

On the 44,000 meters of climbing researched for this book, epochal alpine milestones mingle with enjoyable new route creations. Climbing legends such as Albert Precht, Klaus Hoi and Heinz Zak comment on their passion for steep rock. Routes by climbing greats from long ago, such as Angelo Dibona or Hias Rebitsch, have been accurately recorded in line with modern requirements. There is also plenty of space dedicated to new routes secured with bolts by creative talents such as Ralf Sussmann, Rudi Kühberger and the author himself. 40 long routes with at least 20 pitches, where you can clip bolts in keeping with the spirit of the times, but sometimes also have to make do with rusty protection.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 2 Jun
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