Penticton Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Penticton 895 routes in Region

1

1 Skaha

Summary:

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Seasonality

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.483205, -119.592792

1.1. Skaha 860 routes in Crag

63 53 23 24 21 22 51 20 35 50 34 47 33 19 18 17 46 32 16 45 15 13 14 12 31 10 9 44 55 30 43 42 54 40 41 56 57 39 8 7 27 28 6 5 4 65 38 64 2 36 37 26 1 58 59

1 The Fortress 2 The Turret 4 Nacho Wall 5 Another Buttress 6 Red Tail South 7 Red Tail Lower 8 Red Tail Upper 9 Tsunami Wall 10 East Portal 12 Doctors Wall 13 Grandstand Boulder 14 Fern Gully Wall 15 Blipvert Tower 16 Tippling Tower 17 The Top Tier 18 Maternal Wall 19 Screeching Wall 20 Chatsworth Edge 21 Terry's Face 22 Reilly Rock 23 Kids' Cliff 24 Nether Land 26 Peach Buttress 27 Wave Wall 28 Elusive Edge 30 Great White Wall 31 Go Anywhere 32 Ochre Wall 33 Little White Wall 34 Off White 35 Cave Hill Slab 36 Daycare Quickies 37 The Daycare 38 Diamondback 39 Raven's Castle 40 Rattlesnake Ledge 41 Grassy Glades 42 Garden of Eden 43 China Grove 44 Easter Island 45 Raspberry Mourning Wall 46 The Euphorium 47 Morning Glory 50 Claim It All 51 Jughaul Wall 53 Bedrock City 54 The Terraces 55 Tottering Pillar 56 The Belfry 57 Werbworld 58 Flake cliff 59 Shady Lane 63 Canoe Buttress 64 Retardant Wall 65 Belvedere

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 49.445024, -119.564307

summary

One of the best sport climbing destinations in Canada.

description

Skaha is one of the best sport climbing destinations in Canada. The rock is well featured and easily accessible. Gneiss in nature the "bluffs" are a sport climbers dream due to the proximity of quality climbs to the parking lot. Skaha has something for every ability and style of climber. 5.6 to 5.14, slab to roofs, Skaha has it all. Also Skaha boasts some of the best year round climbing weather in Canada. Moderate fall and spring temperatures bring climbers from all over the world. While some consider summer to hot to climb in the Okanagan it is not difficult to find shady climbs because of the orientation of the bluffs to the sun. All of the west facing walls are great in the morning and the east facing great for afternoons. Lastly, it is not uncommon for climbers to be seen at the beach in Penticton or Okanagan falls for an afternoon swim before heading back for an evening session at one of the many spectacular walls that Skaha has to offer.

1.1.1. The Fortress 82 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.435511, -119.568354

description

Nice sector with lots of routes, mainly 5.10 and up.

approach

Follow the signs from the parking lot. Less than 10 min comfortable walk. This is the first sector on your left.

1.1.2. The Turret 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.436441, -119.568375

1.1.3. Brittle Wall 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.1.4. Nacho Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.437156, -119.567974

1.1.5. Another Buttress 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.437889, -119.567163

description

A large crag just before the steps going to Red Tail. Has a mix of Trad and Sport all of relatively low level. Good for beginners.

approach

Head from the parking lot towards the fortress. After arriving at 'The Fortress', continue straight and turn right at the first fork. The crag is just before the steps up to 'Red Tail Lower'

1.1.6. Red Tail South 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.438024, -119.567343

1.1.7. Red Tail Lower 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.439158, -119.567073

description

A large crag with plenty of easy routes not too far just past 'The Fortress'. 5.6-5.10b range make it a popular spot for beginners.

approach

From the parking lot, head towards 'The Fortress'. After arriving in front of it, continue on and head right at the first fork you come up to. After a bit of walking, There will be a sign with Red Tail on it pointing up some steps. At the top of these steps is the far left side of Lower Red Tail Wall. "What's Left" will be right in front of you. About a 7 minute walk.

1.1.8. Red Tail Upper 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.439161, -119.567073

approach

You can Reach the Upper Red Tail by climbing something on the Lower Red Tail Wall to the top or by going left up the small ridge near 'Hiking with Howie' about 30m and then switch back further up and to the right. It can also be accessed from the bathroom side of the wall.

1.1.9. Tsunami Wall 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.442521, -119.566220

approach

Easiest way is to take the trail Past Red Tail towards Doctor's Wall and then just before Doctor's Wall will be a sign pointing right towards Great White. Take that path and the climbs will be on the path down into the valley before going back up.

1.1.10. East Portal 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.443031, -119.565416

1.1.11. Muscle Beach 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.1.12. Doctors Wall 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.443475, -119.566035

1.1.13. Grandstand Boulder 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.443572, -119.565831

approach

Upon reaching Doctors wall, The Grandstand Boulder will be the massive boulder impacting the path further into the valley. It has routes on three sides of the boulder.

1.1.14. Fern Gully Wall 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.443483, -119.565730

approach

Upon reaching the Doctor's Wall, there will be a skinny gully that allows you further into the valley. This wall is a small section of routes on the west facing wall in the gully.

1.1.15. Blipvert Tower 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.443589, -119.565448

1.1.16. Tippling Tower 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.443783, -119.565468

1.1.17. The Top Tier 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.445067, -119.566062

1.1.18. Maternal Wall 21 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.445362, -119.564265

1.1.19. Screeching Wall 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.445593, -119.565037

description

Mostly Everything to the right of Watching Bananas Bend is 35m. Be sure to prepare for this.

approach

Continue along the trail past Blipvert Wall. The next wide open wall on the left will be the Screeching wall.

1.1.20. Chatsworth Edge 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.449400, -119.563452

1.1.21. Terry's Face 5 routes in Unknown

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.450462, -119.563457

description

The higher, south-facing wall of Foreplay. Across from Reilly's Rock.

1.1.22. Reilly Rock 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.450126, -119.563096

description

Slabby, orange wall near Foreplay Area

approach

Approach as for Foreplay. Across from Terry's Face

1.1.23. Kids' Cliff 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.452499, -119.561608

1.1.24. Nether Land 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.451155, -119.562654

summary

A small crag with a nice selection of clean mid range climbing.

description

Short fun climbs. If you like Kid's Cliff and want more similar climbs, check out Nether Land.

approach

If approaching from the undeveloped north end of the park, go to Kid's Cliff and then continue down the trail towards Chatsworth and you will see the Nether Land routes on your right above a short ledge.

1.1.25. White Slab 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

Lone whiteish slab with a top 100 5.6 route on it.

approach

Between the Fortress and Peach Buttress

1.1.26. Peach Buttress 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 49.435596, -119.566108

1.1.27. Wave Wall 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.438947, -119.565360

1.1.28. Elusive Edge 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.438894, -119.564044

1.1.29. Blazing Buttress 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

A collection of routes along the approach trail to the Great White Wall.

approach

Just up the trail from Elusive Edge

1.1.30. Great White Wall 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.441921, -119.561726

1.1.31. Go Anywhere 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.443108, -119.562911

description

A very fun crag with plenty of easy climbs for beginners. Just past the peach buttress right beside an outhouse.

1.1.32. Ochre Wall 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.444519, -119.562019

1.1.33. Little White Wall 33 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.445813, -119.562650

summary

A small wall that packs a lot in.

approach

Head to Go Anywhere wall and then head up to the toilet above this crag. Keep right, scramble onto the grassy plateau and follow a faint trail to Little White.

1.1.34. Off White 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.448429, -119.561538

1.1.35. Cave Hill Slab 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.449088, -119.560170

1.1.36. Daycare Quickies 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.436130, -119.564096

description

A quick set of easy climbs just to the left of Daycare

1.1.37. The Daycare 11 routes in Area

Summary:

Top roping, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.436072, -119.563478

summary

Great climbs for teaching and families

description

Nice top rope area with low slope rock, great holds and climbs for kids

access issues

Keep in mind you are on private property so pack it in, pack it out

approach

When you reach the top of the stairs take a right and go around Whitewash wall, climb up to the next bench, go north 100m and you will run into The Daycare

where to stay

The city of Penticton is just down the hill from the Skaha Bluffs parking lot with lots of campgrounds and hotels to choice from

1.1.38. Diamondback 32 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.436886, -119.561887

summary

Beautiful crag facing south and east. South has shorter routes and easier grades. East is long sustain, technical on 10b to 12s. Great climbing!

approach

10 minutes from upper parking lot. Follow the signs. First two signs to the left and you get there.

1.1.39. Raven's Castle 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.439354, -119.562019

1.1.40. Rattlesnake Ledge 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.441306, -119.561534

1.1.41. Grassy Glades 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.441264, -119.560859

1.1.42. Garden of Eden 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 49.441746, -119.560547

1.1.43. China Grove 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.441843, -119.560840

1.1.44. Easter Island 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.442426, -119.560148

1.1.45. Raspberry Mourning Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.443688, -119.559741

description

A long and low east-facing crag

approach

Take a right at the top of the stairs and follow the loop trail

1.1.46. The Euphorium 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.444913, -119.558218

1.1.47. Morning Glory 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 49.445910, -119.557534

1.1.48. Frog Hollow 1 route in Unknown

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

A slab with two runout 5.9 climbs above Claim-It-All and Far Side.

1.1.49. Far Side 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.1.50. Claim It All 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.448653, -119.555661

1.1.51. Jughaul Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.449726, -119.554958

description

Jug Haul wall is located 5 minutes north of "Claim it All". The cliff is completely overhung with muscular and pumpy climbing.

1.1.52. Summerland 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.1.53. Bedrock City 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.455668, -119.553153

summary

Probably the most remote crag in the park.

description

Area is under development. There are a few bolted routes here, and potential for more. The anchors are pretty sketchy, lacking several eye bolts.

approach

Follow the old Gas Line Road all the way to the top. After it curves to the left, look to your left for the bolts.

1.1.54. The Terraces 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.441382, -119.559430

1.1.55. Tottering Pillar 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.441883, -119.559109

1.1.56. The Belfry 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.441253, -119.559010

1.1.57. Werbworld 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.440354, -119.559741

summary

A steep buttress about 18m high, covered in good holds. Fun climbing. Faces SE and catches the morning sun. Go past Raven’s Castle and up the hill as for Grand Canyon. Near the top of the hill, follow a trail to the left toward a steep wall. Routes are described left to right.

description

http://www.skaha.org/documents/Werb_World_Oct09_2013.pdf http://sendage.com/area/werbworld-skaha-bc-canada

1.1.58. Flake cliff 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.426375, -119.561441

summary

Beautiful white gneiss.

1.1.59. Shady Lane 15 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.425480, -119.565660

description

Down the road from the lower car park at a bend, cross the creek onto a firetrail and then follow a track into a gully. Shady Hollow is on the left, and shady lane on the right. Gets afternoon shade

approach

10 min max

1.1.60. Shady Hollow 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

description

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1.1.61. Behemoth 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

summary

A west-facing crag with a number of quality routes in the 5.10-5.12 range.

approach

From the south end of Evergreen Drive, hike around the yellow gate on the left and quickly turn right to hike around a second yellow gate. Watch for a trail that breaks left and dips down beside a small pond. Follow this trail (Brian's Canoe Trail) southward through a brushy canyon until it merges with a dirt road. Walk uphill to a four-way road intersection and pick up another road on the far side that continues uphill to the southwest. At the crest of the hill, take a trail on the left and follow it uphill to Shortcut Cliff. To reach Behemoth, break right on a faint trail, which drops downhill along the cliff base. These crags can also be reached via the Chatsworth approach, but it's considerably longer.

1.1.62. Foreplay 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

1.1.63. Canoe Buttress 25 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.457981, -119.564218

description

An East facing cliff at the northern end of Skaha

approach

Park as for Brian's Canoe Trail, walk down this trail till you see the remains of an old canoe on your left side. This marks the main start of Canoe Buttres.

Reference: page 133 Of Skaha Climbing, first edition, by Marc Bourdon

1.1.64. Retardant Wall 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.436762, -119.553855

summary

Beautiful view and amazing red face !

approach

About 25 minutes from upper parking lot. Follow Ward 1 and the. sauerkraut trail until you reach the crag. To approach the first routes, scramble on the ledge below Lake View Arete.

1.1.65. Belvedere 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.436973, -119.553114

summary

Small sector just by Retardant Wall. Different stone on grey rock.

1.2. Skaha Bouldering 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

description

Under construction

approach

Okanagan Valley

1.2.1. Chillhaus 19 routes in Field

Summary:

1.2.2. BOB 1 route in Field

Summary:

description

A series of boulders in the vicinity of BOB boulder.

1.3. The Slayers 15 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.4. The Sunstone 0 routes in Crag

1.5. The Winter Pig Hotel 0 routes in Crag