Routes in Laurentides for selected grade

Climbing up the easy stepped rock to the right of "Tatanade" to a pair of bolts. Continue up the ramp left of the bolts then around right above them. (Going directly up the face where the bolts are is at least 5.10+.)

(Guide says 4 bolts, diagram shows 3 but lowest doesn't exit; only 2 are in the rock. Anchor on tree(s).)

Looking for a set of three bolts angling up and leftwards, on an almost ramp-like area of rock. Needs gear for the upper section/finish.

Look for a pair of left-arching cracks at the top of the cliff -- this climb starts below and right of them.

Climb the blocky crack to the left-arching crack and finish up and left through them. A bit run-out at the end.

Climb the groove that starts just right of (route 2) angling up and right. Clip a bolt and pull left, then up the crack to the right. Either anchor, or move left to climb the easy slab and cracks above.

Climb the crack features zig-zagging up the centre of the wall.

First set of anchors from the left.

A nice introduction to friction climbing, though sparsely bolted. Follow the right-most set of bolts from the main Controverse ledge.

The 2nd bolt as indicated in the MdA guidebook now exists.

Direct finish for Morticia & Gomez -- rather than exiting leftwards.

Start as per Encore!, but after traverse continue left and up a line of bolts.

(spring 2011 -- this route is in the guide book, but doesn't appear to exist. Where it is diagrammed is covered in moss with no signs of bolts nor or the scrubbing that would likely have been done for the first ascent in 2007.)

Left bolt line on this short slab.

While the guidebook indicates this as 5.7, it is a far easier "5.7" than "Carrefour Giratoire" or even "Dans le Bon Vieux Temps". It is no more than 5.6, but really about 5.5.

Left-facing corner with a thin crack in the corner in the upper section of it.

Climb the blocky arete.

Not a good lead if 5.6 is anywhere close to your limit, as there is a loose block that must be carefully avoided.

Center slab.

Big slab to the right of the tree with the sign.

Get down the boulder by this route.

Climb the little slab.

Climb in the middle of the slab.

Straight on the big slab.

Easy crack at the right side of the boulder

Right arête behind the boulder.

Line of weakness to the left.

Good warm-up.

Follow the arête or climb the face of the detached flake.

Down-climb the boulder by this problem.

Start on some horizontal cracks left of the roof above the start of "Staircase", traverse rightwards gently rising until in the corner shared with "Staircase", go up to the roof, dodge it to the left, then pull back right above the roof then up trending rightwards initially.

The arete at the right-end of the main part of the cliff.

Variant start left of La Valse, up the unprotected slab, joining La Valse just below the first corner.

1. 5.6 25m. Climb the crack in the middle of the face to flakes then a smaller followed by a larger right-facing corner to a bolted anchor.

2. 5.6. 15m. Step right from the anchor and up a bit to a nearby bolt. Then wander upwards to a large ledge and rappel anchors.

First pitch is much better than second pitch.

Variant finish of La Premiere Valse - from just before the end of P2, break right and up the slab to trees.

Another bottom to top route, a bit difficult to protect in places.

Not frequented, so a bit dirty, but climbs well. Share start with "Spoutnik" for a couple bolts, then branch left up the crack features; or start farther left.

Start is a bit tricky for the grade, rest is lovely close-bolted easy sport.

Shares start with "Reptation", then continues rightwards up the ramp before finishing in blocky terrain left of a tree.

Has a couple variant finishes: ''La Rampe directe'' , ''Le Bloc'' (right off the tree).

Easy crack on a slab. First protection on first pitch 5m above the ground. Double cam #1-#2.

The obvious dihedral, finishing up cracks in the upper face.

Again, could use a bit of brushing, and if leading, you probably want a nut-tool, as some of the placements may require a bit of digging/cleaning.