Routes in Canada for selected grade

Climb up right of the small tree (and a bit right of the crack) on the ‘Ninja Turtle’ slab. This problem on the left side of the slab is arguably the best of the 'Ninja Turtle’ problems.

Sit start just left of the big crack. Follow the arete up, avoiding using the big crack.

Climb the Jugs on left and then Traverse the lip to the arete shared by The Red Keep

Climb first crack, starting as low as possible.

Hug the block like a fridge and muscle yourself to the top

Gear to No.5

A quality line starting just right of Direttissima offering mostly bolt protected climbing for the first 5 pitches then 4 pitches with a more traditional flare, topping out on the summit block. Techy slab cruxes down low and typical steep blocky climbing up top. A single rack from micro's to #4 is useful.

Sit-start using blocky holds at base of dihedral. Climb up the right side of the dihedral. Beware awkward fall

Sit-start at extreme right end of a juggy shelf/rail below lip of boulder. Follow this rail left into a dihedral. Top out at the dihedral, or continue left along the lip of boulder to top out as per "Speak Easy" (more pump, same grade)

Add a grade for sit start better flow to. Watch out top is extremely sharp

Sit start to the left of 'Slim Shady' on two opposing side pulls. The line allows you to avoid the crimps of 'Slim Shady'. A nice warmup.

Starts in a right facing corner 100m left of the Coire Dubh gully. Rap with a 70m rope or walk off climbers left to the gully between Kid Goat and Nanny Goat and descend by walking down the gully.

see topo and description on Tabvar.org Rock quality is average for the area (i.e..awful by most standards). Route finding is fairly straightforward as bolts guide the way. Pitch difficulty ratings seem a bit inconsistent. Description & topo are accurate. We combined pitches where suggested. As description says this route should not be taken lightly and the cumulative effect of lots of climbing is tiring, however, generally there were hard cruxes in pitches at the stated grade but relatively non-strenuous climbing between, as one would expect on a cliff of this angle (Less than vertical). Protection generally good but the last pitch has a scary fall potential at a "10b stem" section that I thought was the crux of the whole climb (poorly protected).10D section after that seemed straight forward and not very hard. We had double set of cams to 3" but could have left the second 2" and 3" at home. We did not know the Coire Dubh descent & darkness was approaching so trudged all the way down the Loder peak ridge trail to the road (2.5h is about right). Thanks Andy for the effort putting it up.