Routes in Canada for selected grade

A long day, with a good variety of terrain to keep you on your toes. Don't be fooled by the low grade... this can still be a serious objective requiring a range of mountaineering skills.

Approach via Lake Louise and the Plain of Six Glaciers trail. Just past the teahouse, head up a scree gully and then a well-trodden trail through the brush to a talus field below Mt Collier. Continue up this to the toe of the Victoria glacier.

From the toe of the glacier, travel up the glacier avoiding hazard from the rognon and from the slopes of Collier above. Cross the bergschrund and climb up to the base of the black band below the Victoria-Collier col. Climb this band (very poor, loose rock) to the col. From here, climb the ridge south of the col to the summit. Either tackle the rock difficulties straight on or bypass them on snow/ice on the exposed right side above the imposing North Face. Descend the same route. Rappel anchors may be found at times, but test them thoroughly before trusting them.

Follow loose flakey ramp at far side of east wall.

The G.O.A.T is an easy diagonal traverse up the White Rock

walk up towards the top half way before the small plateau there will be a boulder on hikers left with dang arbutus in the way. feel free to tie it out of the way but don't hurt it!

The leftmost, and shortest of three unknown routes. Follow left-leaning crack past four bolts.

Left-leaning twin hand-cracks -- good pro, good novice lead. Anchors aren't lower-off, but easy walk-off to (climber's) right.

Sit start on two drill holes near the bottom. Utilize crimps to top out where the crack splits off. Could be a V0 if you're short.

Description The face next to the "Auto Pilot" corner can be climbed at an easier grade. Jug haul up the slab.

While this route appeared to have good pro in horizontal cracks, I don't believe it has been led, only free soloed.

Location 10 feet left of Auto Pilot. Accessed by traversing over the water, which is probably the most difficult part of the climb.

Protection Cams in horizontals, gear anchor up top (if leading)

Right of 'Stern Ladder', on slab

Also the downclimb on Julie.

Climb up the corner using whatever is available on both rock faces. Top out!

Alternate ending for The Slab.

Start: about 120m north of the (first) easy way down, at the bottom of a major ramp. The climb generally stays near the outside edge of the ramp.

1. 10m Scramble up the rock spike on the left-hand edge of the slab.

2. 40m Climbing near or on the outside edge, move up to a wide ledge with a good belay.

3. 28m Go more or less straight up.

4. 25m Climb up 3m and move right accross the slab to an obvious crack. Climb up the crack to the pine tree, which turns out to be a cedar (very old -- don't touch). (Variations are possible.)

5. 15m Scramble to the top.

4(a). 5.5 From the end of the third pitch, there appears to be a good crack going diagonally up to the left. It leads out onto the face. Follow the crack up past one cedar to another one. Climb back up and right to get onto the ramp near the end of the last pitch of the regular route. This variation has been climbed accidentally many times over the years.

(Was in the database as "White Pine". There is no such named route at Bon Echo, so guessing the original contributor meant "One Pine", and renamed to that to preserve the ascents.)

Massive rock fall has obliterated this route. Description is in guide only for posterity.

Where the trail first meets the cliff at the north end is a large boulder which recently (geologically speaking) fell off the cliff. Start just to the right of this boulder at a right-facing dihedral, initially using an obvious jam crack. Climb to the top of the dihedral (8m) to a nice ledge and anchors to the right. Well cleaned as of June 2021. Shares anchors with Proboscis. Dihedral sounds hollow so treat placements with suspicion.

Start 4.5m right of Cedar Hollow. Follow a small gully up and slightly right from a clearing to an overhang. Proceed up to a pine tree, then up slabs to the top.

A quick route with a fun little hand traverse.

Stand at the first dihedral to the right of "Calabogie Sunset". On the left face, use big holds to climb up and slightly left for 6m. Do a short hand traverse to the right, using a horizontal finger crack. Follow a steep gully up to a large roof, and exit to the left underneath the roof.

Climb the open easy-angled face up a crack (just to the right of the bolts) to a small right-facing corner.

Protection is scarce and poor for the first 2/3 of the climb, but easy to find at the top.

Climb face, right side arete is in.

On the face to the right of The Wedge is a jagged crack that angles up and leftwards. Climb this leftwards, then back rightwards to anchors above "Irving's Overhang".

Climb the open book to the overhang. Escape left onto the ramp, head back right onto the face and then follow the bolts over the bulge and to the anchor above.

Only the face above the overhang is protected by bolts. Bring a couple small cams for the open book and ramp.

Eliminating the left ramp and pulling the overhang directly is a fun and more challenging variation.

Start on the good edges and good feet under the roof. Move right to the big edge and top out.

Start with both hands on the low small rail, and good left foot. Go straight up.

Several Variations exist VB-V1, a good place to warm up if the other boulder is busy.

Start at the far left side, use the good holds and ledges to top out through the corner.

Stand on rock. Climb straight up though great holds.

Climb left side of Y crack on big, positive holds.

The easiest climb/downclimb for the boulder. Acting as a ladder down after topping out.

SSD on right side. Establish and make one slap to the jug without dabbing then mantle out on jugs. Not dabbing is the cux!

Follow obvious left crack up the slab

Follow obvious right crack up the slab

Start at number 8B and go up and right.

Starts 6m right of 'Median'. Ends on a ledge.

Start at number 16.

Start at number 19.

1. Climb the groove to a ledge then left and up to an open book.

2. Continue up on the right of the open book to an overhang. Finish is through the trees above and to the right.

Start at number 36A.

Start at number 38.

Start at number 39.

Climb the featured, but usually dirty, corner.

Short offwidth starting just left of Mean Streak. Pull through the overhang onto the ledge left for easy climbing to the top. Two rings about 2m climber's left at the top for lowering. Fun climbing with plenty of fist and foot jams, and solid gear placements - a great intro to trad.

Steep chimney crack climbing to the top. Climber's right of Enchiridion and Ten Pound Lunker Bass.

At the top, there are rap rings about 3m to climber's right, 2m below a dead tree trunk.

Start at Vanna and climb right-trending ledges to the top.

Short trad route that provides access to the big game ledge.

Start at number 18C.

Climb the off-width chimney.

Start at number 25. Climb a flake to a ledge below a large overhang, then move left and climb a corner to the top.

Start at number 52. Get in the chimney, worm your way up.

Climb the right of two cracks located about 10m left of 'For Wimps Only'.

Climb the easy ledges and cracks to a high step up onto the top. A great first trad lead with plenty of options for gear and numerous good stances.

Start at 33m.

Start at 37m. Climb up up the open book.

Start to the right of Veg Direct.

Start at 188m.

Climb the wide, left facing corner. On your right, when looking into the gully.

Climb a chimney behind a cedar tree.

First problem here done in snowy running shoes. Sit start on the two obvious holds near the right-side of the wall. Right hand up to good ledge, left hand in the surprisingly perfect undercling, right hand to slanted ledge, left hand to the top ledge

A great area for novices and as an introduction area. Short approach, minimal bushwhacking, just off a main highway near Sault Ste. Marie, Ont.

Follows the back side of a stone pillar.

First gear is high, but takes a few decent placements.

Climb up then right to share anchor with Aquaplanage.

The left-facing flake and crack system a bit right of the center of the cliff.

The MdA guidebook (2017 edition) lists the FA of this as being "21 aout 2015 - Laurent Cloutier et Suzanne Chamberland", likely the first ascent after cleaning and bolting. It was free-soloed by David Gibbs on July 22, 2012, and likely climbed before that as well.