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1 5.7
2 5.8
3 5.8
4 5.9
5 5.9
6 5.5

description

Approach: Walk along the Mamquam Road up to the fire hazard sign and follow the trail through boulders to the first obvious climb. This is 'Calculus Crack Direct'. You want to head right around the corner.

  1. Pull a short crack move to trees and roots pulling until a second, somewhat longer, crack.

  2. Climb up a broken crack system to baseline ledge. Consider climbing the obvious hand to off-width crack listed as 'St. Bernard P1' instead.

  3. The long obvious hand-crack. Belay just above a bulge. Keep a #3 for the anchor.

  4. Step up and right, following discontinued cracks to a chimney-like feature with a crack inside. Belay off of a combination of cams, bush and slung flake.

  5. Climb up the shallow cracks to a steep hand crack. Belay off of a tree or (70m) link to the top.

  6. Wander up the slab and move left to a low angle crack with a high first step. Belay off of a tree.

Descent:

Recommended
Rappel off of calculus crack's anchor into the gully (4x 30m) ;

Or

Exposed
Scramble up a short right-leaning crack to a ledge below 'Karen's Math' and wander up the gully to the right. Keep going right to broadway ledge and descend along the south trail.

Route history

There is no known route history.

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 49.68734, -123.14537

Grade citation

5.7,5.8,5.8,5.9,5.9,5.5 Assigned grade
5.10a [5.9 - 5.10b] ++ grAId
5.9 James Hardy

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
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D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 78 from 42 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 26
Flash 1
Red point 4
Tick 23
Attempt 2
Target 1

Comment keywords

hands fist jamming dry steep short feet easy rest crack awkward traverse layback amazing good super exciting cool perfect great pleasant fun nice desperate crux sustained tired solid exposed

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Marc Bourdon

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9781777147129

Your trusty guide through more than 3500 boulder problems scattered around Squamish and the surrounding area. Containing an extensive history of Squamish bouldering, info about planning a trip, as well as countless colour photos, maps and infographics, this guide provides the details for navigating one of North America's top bouldering destinations. It includes a comprehensive list of problems for when you're climbing by yourself, a new Top 100 list featuring boulders from V0 through V14, and even the infamous list of the Squamish 7 Terrors.

Author(s): Kevin McLane & Andrew Boyd

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780986519147

A definitive guidebook describing the rock climbing found at Squamish, near Vancouver, covering both single pitch routes, and the huge multi-pitch routes up the face of the infamous Chief face.

Author(s): Rich Wheater

Date: 2015

ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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