Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Bulletheads Bulletheads centre | |||||
5.11b | ★★★ Bullethead Central
FA: 1981 | 180m, 5 | |||
5.11b | ★★ Retrospect
1
5.11a
2
5.11a
3
5.9
4
5.11b
5
5.10a
FA: Kyle Koroll, Ryan Davy, Luke Cormier Sept. 2022 & Luke Cormier, Sep 2022 | 120m, 5 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Liquid Gold
1
5.10d
30m
2
5.11a
20m
3
5.10c
30m
4
5.11a
70m
5
5.10b
10m
A 160m multi-pitch.
FA: Gordie Smaill & Mike Wisnicki, 1969 FFA: Derek Flett & Andrew Boyd, 2010 | 160m, 5, 1 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Krimo Gold
Alternative start to Liquid Gold trends left up the ramp instead of clipping the bolt then left and up to the finger crack (2 bolts) splitting the face. Finish as for LG. | 160m, 5 | |||
The Bulletheads Campground Wall | |||||
5.10c | ★★★ Bullethead East
1
5.8/9
40m
2
5.10c
35m
3
5.10a/b
40m
4
5.10b
30m
P1 - 5.8/5.9. 40m. Continue trending up and left to a bolt belay. P2 - 10b/c. Up the obvious crack, pull the roof, and then up a balancy finger crack. Sustained once you pull the roof all the way to the top. 35m P3 - 10a/b? We took the middle crack, though there are also options left and right at the same grade. 40m to a bolted belay on the dirt ledge. Don't be confused by the rap anchor down and to the right. Short crux. P4 - 10b. 30m. Best pitch on the route. Long, sustained fingers and hands in a groove. We TRd the 10b chimney/flare to the right which was fun on TR. You'd want bigger gear (some #4s) to lead it. | 150m, 4 | |||
5.11b | ★★★ Rainy Day Woman
| 140m, 4, 1 | |||
5.10a | Self Abuse
Layback the corner and then undercling horizontally right under the arching roof. | 28m, 1 | |||
5.10c | ★★★ Rainy Day Dream Away
An awesome finger crack | 35m | |||
5.11b | ★★ Varicose Veins
| 25m, 11 | |||
5.10b | ★★ Sloppy Gordie
| 25m, 1 | |||
5.11a | ★ Yoga for Stiff Men
| 40m | |||
5.8 | Sunshine Chimney North
| ||||
5.9 | Sloppy Seconds
| 30m | |||
5.10b | ★★★ A Pitch in Time
A left-leaning offwidth situated about 40m right of Rainy Day Dram Away. The majority of the crack is #2 and bigger, and finishes at the midset of hooks. The extension "A Pitch in Time Extension" goes at 10d and follows the thin crack past the anchors. Please don't Toprope from these hooks, instead set up your own TR system, and only use the hooks for lowering. | 15m | |||
5.10d | ★★★ A Pitch In Time Extension
This route shares the same start as "A Pitch in Time", but continues up the thin finger crack on the wall above the anchors. | 20m | |||
5.8 | Hiphugger
| 45m | |||
5.8 | ★ Sunshine Chimney Centre
Follow the chimney up to the tree. It starts a little narrow but ends wide enough for your whole body to be inside. Continue into a chasm. Multiple exits exist but you can climb left from the back corner up into the cave. Squeeze through and Exit left onto a traverse around to rap anchors. Can be done in 1 or 2 pitches but the rope drag is horrible if doing as a single. 1 star climbing, 3 star adventure. | 45m | |||
5.11a | ★★★ The Swedish Touch
| 30m | |||
5.5 | Sunshine Chimney South
| ||||
5.9 | ★ Feeling Groovy
Up the thin seam, through the chimney then follow the diagonal crack. Possible to do as one pitch, but the rope drag is real. | 40m, 2 | |||
5.8 | ★ Fungus The Bogeyman
| 45m, 2 | |||
5.11c | The Lurker
FA: Kyle + co., May 2016 | ||||
The Bulletheads Bulletheads South | |||||
5.11a | ★★ Black Book
| 27m | |||
5.10+ A0 | Eliminating Mice
| 2 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Cream of White Mice
1
5.9
28m
2
5.6
40m
3
5.8
20m
4
5.9
13m
P1: Start up a lightly vegetated dirt ramp till a corner breaks off left, follow this thin finger corner up to a set of bolted anchors. P2 From these anchors follow the obvious left sloping crack up to the start of the quartz dyke. follow the dike with good gear to a small ledge and a second bolted station. P3 Continue following the dyke for s few meters until it's possible to traverse right onto the slab past a bolt. Continue trending up and right until you can step down off an arete to a nice ledge and crack corner system. Either belay here with a gear anchor or continue up to the small roof above you passing it on the right side to another set of bolted anchors. FA: Peter Croft & Tami Knight, 1978 | 100m, 4, 5 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Cream of White Mice, Direct finish
| 5m | |||
5.11b | ★★★ Alegria
| 38m | |||
5.10c | ★ Coogee Crack
thin short crack. Getting a bit greasy in some of the holds. sling a big tree to the right for a anchor. Top-ropeable if you walk up to the right of the climb to the tree at the top. | 10m | |||
5.10a | ★★ Comfortable Shoes
Mostly a sport climb, but it is good to have a few cams. FA: Jeff Thomson | 55m, 2, 7 | |||
5.11b | Arnold Grundlewimp
| 20m | |||
5.9 | ★★★ Slot Machine
1
5.9
32m
2
5.6
20m
2 pitches. crack climb.Bolted belays. Walk off to the left is fun in its own way. bring more 1-1.5"cams FA: Bob Milward & Jim Campbell, 1983 | 52m, 2 | |||
5.11a | ★ Stiff Upper Lip
| 25m | |||
5.10b | Wanhalla
| 35m | |||
5.11b A0 | Exfoliator
| 30m, 2 | |||
5.10c | ★★ Manãna
| 50m | |||
5.10d | ★ Dances With Bolts
| 20m | |||
5.10c | ★★ Xenolith Dance
| 45m, 2 | |||
5.10c | ★ Chassè Right
| 45m, 2 | |||
5.11a | ★ Shannon's Dancing
| 45m, 2, 13 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Fiesta Daze
| 40m, 9 | |||
5.9 | ★★ Golden Labs
This one may well get the 5.9+. Start up through overhang and up diagonal left flake crack. Burly but not where you might expect it! FA: Peter Croft, John Howe & Blake Robinson, 1980 | ||||
5.10c | ★★ Nuclear Arms
A core intense workout! Squamish rack #2-#6 double #4 and #5 | 25m | |||
5.8 | ★ Dora's Delight
| 30m | |||
5.10b | The Cat's Pajamas
1
5.10a
2
5.10b
| 50m, 2 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Ride The Bullet
| 40m, 12 | |||
5.10d | ★★ Corazón
| 30m, 9 | |||
5.11a | ★ Tonatiuh
| 30m, 9 | |||
5.10a | ★ Dyke Link
Assuming this is "Land and Freedom" in McLane (2005) | 40m, 11 | |||
5.9 | ★ Moonwatcher
A sport climb, but a #2 cam is used to protect the bottom flake. FA: McLane & Cerney | 20m, 5 | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Two Rats and a Titmouse
FA: Robin Barley, John Howe & Penny Cooper, 1999 | 100m, 3 | |||
The Bulletheads Bulletheads North | |||||
5.11b | ★ Chimp Dip
SR to BD#3, 2xBD#0.5-BD#2 FA: 1980 | 20m | |||
5.11c | Slim Shady
| 20m, 5 | |||
5.12c | Foreign Affair
Bolts, BD#0.75-BD#2 | 25m | |||
5.13b | ★★★ Eurasian Eyes
FA: Jim Sandford, 1989 | 25m, 8 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Caucasian Eyes
SR to BD#3, 2xBD#2 FA: 2006 | 20m | |||
5.10c | ★★ Ren
SR to BD#3 FA: 2001 | 15m | |||
5.11c | ★ Bullet to the Head
1 Bolt, SR FA: 2006 | 13m | |||
5.11a | Squamish Crack Head
| 10m | |||
5.10d | Join the Fight
| ||||
5.11d | Fight Club
| ||||
5.11c | Into the Void
| ||||
5.11a | Wild Turkey
SR to BD#4, 2xBD#0.4-BD#3 | 2 | |||
5.9 | Skycragger's Traverse
The traverse to all the routes. | 30m | |||
5.13 | Love as a Weapon
FA: Stu Smith, Oct 2022 | ||||
Tantalus Wall | |||||
5.11c A0 | ★ Tantalus Wall
| 300m, 9 | |||
5.11d | ★★★ Cerberus
| 200m | |||
C3 | ★★ Cannabis Wall
| 150m | |||
5.10c A0 | ★★★ Milk Run
| 120m | |||
5.11d | ★★★ Milk Run (FREE 1st pitch Variant)
| 40m | |||
5.12c | ★ Brain Damage
| 50m | |||
5.11d | Rock Loggers
| 40m | |||
5.12b | ★ Midnight Run
| 10 | |||
{AU} AID:A5 | ★★★ Breakfast Run
| 100m | |||
5.11d | ★ Mouse In A Bottle
| ||||
5.11d | ★ Road To Nowhere
| 2 | |||
5.11c R | ★★★ Freeway
1
5.10d
2
5.11a
3
5.9
4
5.10b
5
5.11c
6
5.11a
7
5.11c
8
5.11a
9
5.10c
10
5.11a
11
5.10a R
12
5.10d
This is a super classic line, and a must do for the grade. The climb is very sustained with only a few pitches less than 5.11. I am describing the original finish, but express lane is the preferred finish.
Fixed anchors at every belay. Express Lane is the preferred finish and breaks off at P8. | 350m, 11 | |||
5.11c | ★★★ Freeway Lite
| 200m | |||
5.12c | ★★ Brothers In Arms
| 4 | |||
5.12a | ★★★ The Big Slick
| 100m | |||
5.11a | ★★ Express Lane
1
5.11a
2
5.10c
| 110m, 2 | |||
5.11b | ★ High Octane
| ||||
5.11b | Catharsis Crack
Traversing undercling crack to reach the base of Cerberus. Marc-Andre's a sandbagger! FA: Marky Mark | 30m | |||
Dihedrals | |||||
5.12b | ★ Warriors Of The Wasteland
| 8 | |||
5.11+ | Bombay Sapphire
| 90m, 3 | |||
5.11b | Shaken Not Stirred
| ||||
Stellar System
FA: Colin Moorhead & Kai Hironen | |||||
5.13+ R | Heavy Fuel
1
5.11a
2
5.11
3
5.13+ R
4
5.12
5
5.12b
6
5.10b
7
5.10c
8
5.12a
Essentially a freed version of "Stellar System" but an amalgamation of a couple of other routes. FFA: Will Stanhope, 2021 | 8 | |||
5.11c | Freeway
| ||||
5.13a | Stone Free
| ||||
5.13a | Gin and Juice
| ||||
5.13c | Stélmexw
FA: Jesse Huey, 2022 | 240m, 5 | |||
5.10d | ★ Cloudburst
| 25m | |||
5.12b | ★ Planet Caravan
| 170m, 7 | |||
5.12d | ★ Supernaught
| 80m, 3 | |||
5.8 | Clean Corner
| ||||
5.12a A0 | ★ Deadend Dihedral
| 4 | |||
5.11b | The Never Ending Traverse
1
5.11b
50m
2
5.10d
27m
A long 2 pitch climb that would be a good pairing with 'Rutabaga'. The climb starts 10m slightly right and uphill from 'Deadend Dihedral'. Read more on mountainproject.com FA: Kyle Smith & Casey Dubois, Jul 2020 | 77m, 2, 6 | |||
5.9 | ★ Sticky Fingers
| 35m | |||
5.10b | ★★ Rutabaga p1
| 30m | |||
5.11a | ★★★ Rutabaga
| 70m |