Help

Slhanay

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 149
  • Aka: Barbarian Walls

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Description

A smaller face north of the Chief.

Access issues inherited from Squamish

There are occasional crags that are on private land (and closed) -- but generally climbing is well accepted and welcomed at the various crags and areas around Squamish.

History

History timeline chart

As of June, 2008 this peak was renamed Slhanay (pronounced Slarnay) as "The Squaw" was considered a derogatory racist and sexist term.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

From the belay at P3 of Birds of Prey. Tips splitters into terrific dihedral climbing. 5 pitches in all. 70m rope to rap off.

5.10a, 5.10d, 5.10a

FA: Joe Turley & Ted Marks, 1985

1 5.7 30m
2 5.10c 60m
3 5.8 25m
4 5.10b 45m
5 5.11a 20m
6 5.11a 35m
7 5.10c 25m

Deep Impact is an extension of 'Halley’s Comet', a classic 60 meter splitter finger crack located on the left side of Dog Wall that was established by Joe Turley and Ted Marks in 1985. Deep Impact links several buttresses providing a well-protected quality crack line in a more quiet area in Squamish. Long splitter cracks, comfortable ledges, and excellent views make for a great day of rock climbing. Source Squamish Climbing Magazine

FA: Kaylan Worsnop, Danny Guestrin, Brent Goodman & Stephen Molgard, 2019

1 5.11a
2 5.10a
3 5.10c
4 5.10d

Climbs the arete 60m left of Photophobia and right of Deep impact. Starts at the big dead tree. P1 follow up bolts swing onto the right of the arete, continue up, ignore the first set of bolts. P2 corner/chimney/fist crack comboto ledge. P3 climb steep hand crack, right past bolt to thin crack, continue up flakes to belay ledge. P4 follow bolts up, use chimney as needed, up corner then step left onto face for some excellent climbing to the top. Its possible to stay left of the bolts 11b or right of the bolts 10d at the top.

FA: Glenn Woloski, Yuki Iwanaga & Robin Barley, 2016

Phenomenal climbing (but may need some cleaning).

1 5.11b
2 5.10c
3 5.11d
4 5.11d
5 5.11a
1 5.8
2 5.7
3 5.10b
4 5.0
5 5.10b
6 5.8

One of the more travelled routes at Slihany.

P1-2:
follow an older crack climb called Eagels' Domain, with a gear anchor on a small ledge mid-pitch. Alternately you can link the pitches with a 70m rope, or simul-climb the easy start.
P3:
Climb an easy slab up to the striking corner above, some awkward and reachy moves get you established on a small ledge. Then a short layback or technical stemming will allow you to crawl over the lip. A committing step up allows you to traverse the slab left, and around the corner to the anchors.
P4:
climb the low 5th slab left then up towards the tree, and a set of anchors.
P5/6:
Puzzle your way through the corners, and face cracks, finishing with a 5.8 chimney. Don't go into this pitch expecting a burly fight, but a slow methodical puzzle with good rests. Often done as one pitch, alternately there is a good ledge 1/2 way up you can build a gear anchor on.

Original route follows arete to ledge at .11a.

Heart of Darkness continues to top, after .11a pitch at .12c.

This route continues up the arete after the last pitch of Frayed Ends of Sanity (.11a).

Rap in face/slab climb on the grey face, climbers right of Pipeline. If you've climbed a route on Slhanay and still have some energy and skin left on your finger tips, this is a fun and engaging pitch. Easily top roped from the same bolts you rap in on, or pull the rope and commit to a mildly run-out route that sits somewhere between slab and face climbing.

Set: Josh Mackenzie

FA: Josh Mackenzie & Steph Hart, 24 Aug 2019

The largest corner on the cliff, visible from anywhere in Squamish. Starts up Birds of Prey, stepping right to the base of the corner at 55m. Pitch 3 can be split in two with chains at 25m if needed.

Top 100 in the Squamish select guide book, and well worth that status.

P1; start up wide corner crack, trend left on thin finger locks and crimps before making a difficult move into the vertical crack. (.10d)

P2; follow low angle corner to gear belay at base of obvious layback corner. (.7)

P3; climb prominent corner using laybacks and stems. Crux is protected by a bolt. Either runout to the chains or fiddly, hard to place gear. (.10C)

P4; 2 bolts protect the overhanging boulder problem straight off the belay. Trend up and right to belay and top out. (.10C)

FA: robin barley & bruce macdonald

Starts up corner crack to right of bolted start of Godforsaken Land. Alternate finish goes at 10c by heading up and left across slab on fourth pitch to join The Great Game.

The roof crack 10m to the right of The Great Drain

The roof crack 10m right of The Great Drain

The line of bolts R of XTC, up slab trending right to arete

FA: John Howe

Warning Flora and Fauna: Wasps at first bolted anchor

1 5.10a
2 5.8
3 5.8
4 5.9
5 5.7

FA: Robin Barley & Kevin McLane, 1983

Areas

Add area(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Name
Style
Routes
Ticks
Height
Grades

Information needed

This crag does not have approach information. Could you describe the approach to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Marc Bourdon

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9781777147129

Your trusty guide through more than 3500 boulder problems scattered around Squamish and the surrounding area. Containing an extensive history of Squamish bouldering, info about planning a trip, as well as countless colour photos, maps and infographics, this guide provides the details for navigating one of North America's top bouldering destinations. It includes a comprehensive list of problems for when you're climbing by yourself, a new Top 100 list featuring boulders from V0 through V14, and even the infamous list of the Squamish 7 Terrors.

Author(s): Kevin McLane & Andrew Boyd

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780986519147

A definitive guidebook describing the rock climbing found at Squamish, near Vancouver, covering both single pitch routes, and the huge multi-pitch routes up the face of the infamous Chief face.

Author(s): Rich Wheater

Date: 2015

ISBN: 978-0-9877796-5-6

With 300 routes, 600 boulder problems and a handful of fine alpine objectives, Vancouver Rock Climbing provides comprehensive coverage of the diverse climbing scene around Vancouver, Canada.

  • Provides detailed coverage of Howe Sound, Caulfeild Sea Cliffs, Cypress Falls Park, Cypress Mountain, Grouse Mountain, Lynn Valley and Deep Cove
  • Includes full-color images and maps, descriptions of conditions and approach notes for each climbing area
  • Each climb description tells you what gear to use, how many bolts there are, a difficulty rating, the pitch length and where to start and end

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Photos Browse all photos

Upload a photo of area

Fri 2 Jun
Check out what is happening in Slhanay.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文