A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Noah Boudreau-Richard
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Mont King
166 in Crag
- 1.1. Vélo 14 in Boulder
- 1.2. Impériale 31 in Sector
-
1.3.
Égyptien 40 in Sector
- 1.3.1. Warm-up 4 in Boulder
- 1.3.2. Rhinocéros 10 in Boulder
- 1.3.3. Égyptien 4 in Boulder
- 1.3.4. Le golfeur 4 in Boulder
- 1.3.5. Pas pour toi 7 in Boulder
- 1.3.6. Sarcophage 6 in Boulder
- 1.3.7. Cock Soup 1 in Boulder
- 1.3.8. Dirt Room 2 in Boulder
- 1.3.9. Logger King 2 in Boulder
- 1.4. Amphitheatre 21 in Sector
- 1.5. Zébrée 10 in Sector
- 1.6. Vallot 12 in Sector
- 1.7. Staircase 22 in Sector
- 1.8. Crown 16 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Mont King 166 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles
Lat / Long: 46.026184, -74.177698
summary
The premiere crag at Val-David.
description
The premiere crag at Val-David with some 190 routes and variations from 5.3 sport to 5.14a trad, and a height of up to 60m.
access issues
Climbing is well accepted at the park, though an access fee is required. As of summer 2018, this was $12/person/day -- though an annual pass is also available (which is free for local residents).
approach
Take the entrance off Rue du Lac, (parc on Rue Condor), and follow the trails and signs to Mont King.
1.1. Vélo 14 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Dégrimpe
Down-climb the boulder by this problem. | V0- | ||||||
| 2 | ★★ Casseau de patates | V0 | ||||||
| 3 | ★★★ Traverse du vélo | V1/2 | ||||||
| 4 | Fissure du vélo | V7/8 | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 5 |
★★★ Bienvenue dyno
Left hand in front or on the side of the arete. Right hand in good slot. High foot and dyno to the good jug. | V3/4 | ||||||
| 6 |
Bienvenue dyno assis
Bonne chance avec la main gauche... | V8 | ||||||
| 7 | ★★★ Dièdre du vélo | V5 | ||||||
| 8 |
Dièdre du vélo assis
SDS du "Dièdre du vélo" | V8 | ||||||
| 9 | ★★ L'Attentat | V8 | ||||||
| 10 | ★ L'intestin | V7/8 | ||||||
| 11 | L'intestin debout | V6 | ||||||
| 12 | ★★★ La tortue | V4 | ||||||
| 13 |
★★ La tortue assise
SDS for "La Tortue". | V6 | ||||||
| 14 | ★ Le chiro | V6 | ||||||
1.2. Impériale 31 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles
description
The sector where the approach trail reaches the cliff. Mostly single-pitch routes 20-25m, but some go further.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3 |
Les Enfants Magiques
FA: Laurent Homier & Jérôme Homier, 1998 | A2+ | ||||||
| 4 |
★★ Ultima Tom
An imposing line left of chimère. Climb up a technical face to a big overhang move. You can place a cam just below the roof or skip to the next bolt. Beware of ground falls if you skip the cam. FA: Thomas Ryan, 1986 | 5.13a | 3 | |||||
| 5 |
Chimère
FA: Paul Laperrière, 1979 | 5.11a | 3 | |||||
| 6 |
Grande Randonnée Pédestre
FA: Louis Babin, 1989 | 5.12c | 5 | |||||
| 7 |
Le persécuteur
FA: Paul Laperrière, 1985 | 5.11b | ||||||
| 8 |
Cat's Ass
FA: Mark Abbott, 1980 | 5.10c | 1 | |||||
/f5/86/f5862038fd546d38c91627da240ad1cfb05534c0) /cc/f2/ccf22d32638ccaf374108f40640ef92d697e8b3a) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 9 | Palimpseste | 5.11b | 10 | |||||
| 10 | ★★★ L'impériale | 5.9 | 2 | |||||
| 11 | ★ Génocide | 5.11b | ||||||
| 12 | ★★ Arkenstone | 5.10c | ||||||
| 13 | ★★ Var. Arkenstone | 5.10b | ||||||
| 14 | ★★★ Impériale Directe | 5.10a | ||||||
| 15 |
Abracadabra
FA: Benoit Dubé & Marcel Lehoux, 1982 | 5.11a | 1 | |||||
| 16 |
Solstice
FA: Jean-Dominique Soudan & Ghislain Allard, 2014 | 5.10b | 6 | |||||
| 17 |
Déryzion
FA: Julien Déry, 1990 | 5.11c | 2 | |||||
| 18 |
★★★ Sceptre
The mega-classic right-leaning crack that you see when approaching the area. You have three finish options at the roof.
FA: John Turner, 1958 | 5.8 | 12m | |||||
| 19 |
★★ Éclipse
Same start as 'Sceptre', then move over the buldge to thin face climbing past 4 bolts. Bring a .4 or .5 to protect the first move and .75 or 1 if you don't like runouts. FA: Paul Laperrière, Christiane Lelièvre & Didier Mazoin, 1980 | 5.10a | 5 | |||||
| 20 |
Éclipse Directe
FA: Paul Laperrière & Guy Lacelle, 1997 | 5.10a | ||||||
| 21 |
★★ Symbiose
FA: Julien Déry, 1980 | 5.10d | 2 | |||||
| 22 |
★★★ Sortie Côté Surplomb
FA: Hubert Morin & Marc Blais, 1978 | 5.10b | ||||||
| 23 | ★★ La Lou | 5.9 | ||||||
| 24 | ★★ La Lou Directe | 5.10b | ||||||
| 25 |
★★★ La Traversée
FA: John Turner | 5.4 | 4 | |||||
1.2.1. Virtuoso 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Dyno | |||||
| 2 | Concerto | V0 | ||||
| 3 |
★★ Virtuoso
FA: Paul Laperrière, 1978 | V5/6 | ||||
| 4 | Cave Ben | V4/5 | ||||
1.2.2. Chimère 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Ultima-Tom assis | V0 | ||||
| 2 | Traverses de chimère | V3 | ||||
| 3 |
★★★ Chimère assis
Dyno X2!! | V6 | ||||
| 4 |
★ Trotter Traverse
FA: Sonnie Trotter, 2010 | V9 | ||||
1.3. Égyptien 40 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
1.3.1. Warm-up 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | V0- | V0- | ||||
| 2 | ★★ V0 | V0 | ||||
| 3 | ★★ V2/3 | V2/3 | ||||
| 4 | ★★★ V4 | V4 | ||||
1.3.2. Rhinocéros 10 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Lagasse | V7/8 | ||||||
| 2 |
Arrogant
Start down sitting and to the left of normal start for "Lagasse" and finish the same. | V8 | ||||||
/f9/a7/f9a7544b61104807fc6f8c23d3690fd9f43871cd) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Sharma Dyno
Boulder just left of Egyptien | V10 | ||||||
| 4 |
Sharma Dyno Low
Low start for "Sharma Dyno" with right dihedral. FA: Chris Sharma, 2003 | V11 | ||||||
| 5 |
★★★ No Mosquito
FA: Jean-Mathieu Nichols, 2002 | V5/6 | ||||||
| 6 |
★★ V4
SDS. Right to left traverse that finishes in "No Mosquito". | V4 | ||||||
| 7 |
★ V1
SDS. Same start as the "V4" traverse, but go straight up on the wall. | V1 | ||||||
| 8 |
★★ Rhinocéros
FA: Antoine Séguin, 2002 | V9 | ||||||
| 9 | Rhinocéros direct | V6 | ||||||
| 10 | Le conquistador | V7 | ||||||
1.3.3. Égyptien 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
/4f/12/4f129bb7fc63777466ead4c13230e2a9f286c146) |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ L'Égyptien | V7 | ||||||
| 2 | ★★★ No Mosquito | V5/6 | ||||||
| 3 | ★★ V4 Traverse | V4 | ||||||
| 4 | Le footballeur | V6 | ||||||
1.3.4. Le golfeur 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
V2
Center of the small face to the left of the cave opening. | V2 | ||||
| 2 |
V0
Big slab to the right of the cave. | V0 | ||||
| 3 | ★★ Le golfeur | V7 | ||||
| 4 |
Le golfeur assis
Low and SDS for "Le golfeur". | V9 | ||||
1.3.5. Pas pour toi 7 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ C'est pas pour toi | V6 | ||||
| 2 | ★ V5 | V5 | ||||
| 3 |
★ V4
Dihedral arête | V4 | ||||
| 4 | L'Afrique à l'envers | V4/5 | ||||
| 5 |
L'Afrique assis à l'envers
SDS for "L'Afrique à l'envers". | V7 | ||||
| 6 | ★ Humidex 46 | V7 | ||||
| 7 |
Mordor Corridor
FA: La Mouette, 2004 | V9 | ||||
1.3.6. Sarcophage 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Tête de chiot | V0- | ||||
| 2 | ★★ Four micro-ondes | V1 | ||||
| 3 | Museau | V1 | ||||
| 4 | King Chochotte | V6 | ||||
| 5 | ★★ Le Sarcophage | V5 | ||||
| 6 |
★★ Le Sarcophage Low
Lower left traverse start to "Sarcophage". | V6 | ||||
1.3.7. Cock Soup 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Cock Soup
FA: Simon Gélinas, 2002 | V8/9 | ||||
1.3.8. Dirt Room 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Gullywood
Key hold broke in 2014. Problem is probably dead... | V5 | ||||
| 2 |
Dirt Room
FA: Denis Desgagne, 2009 | V7/8 | ||||
1.3.9. Logger King 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Logger King | V6 | ||||
| 2 |
Sitting Logger King
SDS in crack for "Logger King". FA: Denis Desgagne, 2009 | V8 | ||||
1.4. Amphitheatre 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Towards the left end of the cliff, name is pretty descriptive.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | L'ancêtre | 5.5 | ||||
| 2 |
Zig Zag
FA: Paul Laperrière & Jean Laperrière, 1973 | 5.6 | ||||
| 3 |
★ Zig Zag directe
FA: Paul Laperrière & Christiane Lelièvre, 1979 | 5.8 R | ||||
| 4 | M2K2 | 5.1 | ||||
| 5 |
★ Gollum
FA: Paul Laperrière & Christiane Lelièvre, 1979 | 5.8 | ||||
| 6 |
★ L'Unique
FA: Claude Lavallée & François Garneau, 1958 | 5.6 R | ||||
| 7 |
Var. de l'Unique
FA: Bernard Poisson, 1968 | 5.3 | ||||
| 8 |
★ L'Unique directe
FA: Normand Cadieux | 5.5 | ||||
| 9 | Le Duplicata | 5.4 | ||||
| 10 |
★★ Absence
FA: Claude Lavallée, 1960 | 5.7 | ||||
| 11 |
Joyeux Noël
FA: Noël Ducharme & Paul Laperrière, 1969 | 5.7 | ||||
| 12 |
★ Joyeux Noël directe
FA: Paul Laperrière & Robert Ward, 1979 | 5.8 | ||||
| 13 |
★ Frénésie gauche
FA: Paul Laperrière, 1984 | 5.10c | 1 | |||
| 14 |
Frénésie droite
FA: Paul Laperrière, 1984 | 5.10c X | ||||
| 15 |
★★★ Batman
FA: Paul Laperrière & Jean François Denis, 1982 | 5.11b | 1 | |||
| 16 |
★ Var. de Batman
FA: Jean François Denis & Jacques Lambert | 5.11a | ||||
| 17 |
★★★ Batman directe
FA: Paul Laperrière & Daniel Thériault, 1989 | 5.11c | ||||
| 18 |
★★ Spirale
FA: John Turner & Bernard Poisson, 1958 | 5.4 | ||||
| 19 |
Var. sortie Spirale
FA: Bernard Poisson, 1958 | 5.5 | ||||
| 20 |
★★★ Faucon Rouge
FA: Paul Laperrière & Jean Laperrière, 1972 | 5.8 | ||||
| 21 |
★★★ Amphitheatre
Gear: Protect your second!!!! big pieces are nice to have on the second and third pitches. Descent: Rap down double ropes the overhanging amphitheater (amazing) or do 2 rappels off the right ledge (hanging rap bolts). | 5.7 | 3 | |||
1.5. Zébrée 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★★ Verrat de Vérot | 5.12b | 23m | |||
| 2 | ★★★ Verrat de Vérot Variante | 5.12d | 27m | |||
| 3 | Offwidth | 5.11- | 12m | |||
| 4 | Giboulée | 5.7 | 9m | |||
| 5 | Dalle de la putréfaction | 5.5 | 9m | |||
| 6 | ★ Gangrène | 5.10d | 18m | |||
| 7 | ★★ Big à bras | 5.12b | 23m | |||
| 8 | ★★★ En attendant qu'à sèche | 5.12d | 12m | |||
| 9 | ★★★ La big à sèche | 5.13a | 23m | |||
| 10 |
★★★ La Zébrée
Initially climbed in Aid as C2. FA: Alain Henault, 1972 FFA: Jeff Beaulieu, 2004 | 5.14a | ||||
1.6. Vallot 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
description
A small but pretty wall, almost pyramid shaped. There is easy access up the right side to set up top-ropes.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Maula | 5.6 | 15m | |||
| 2 | Mashad | 5.8 R | 15m | |||
| 3 | Directissime | 5.9 X | 15m | |||
| 4 |
★★ Vallot
Climb the left-facing corner until near the top, then branch right following cracks, or finish directly. FA: Louise et Claude Lavallee, 1969 | 5.5 | 15m | |||
| 5 | Vallot Direct | 5.8 X | 15m | |||
| 6 | Bigote | 5.6 R | 15m | |||
| 7 | R.L. | 5.4 | 15m | |||
| 8 |
La Normale
Follow the obvious stepped crack up and leftwards. | 5.3 | 15m | |||
| 9 |
La Marmola
Climb the slab right of the crack. | 5.5 X | 15m | |||
| 10 |
Arete
Climb the blunt arete near the right-side of the cliff. | 5.3 | 15m | |||
| 11 |
★ Aretez-moi quelqu'un
There are two bolted lines up the slab on around the right-side of the cliff, not visible from the main face, this is the left one, up steeper but more featured ground. | 5.3 | 15m, 7 | |||
| 12 |
Le Dalot
Climb the slab past 10 bolts. | 5.3 | 15m, 10 | |||
1.7. Staircase 22 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 46.025801, -74.177122
description
This wall is covered in horizontal cracks, providing mostly excellent gear and a lot of climbing that is pulling up from one horizontonal to the next.
It also has a wide, flat base, easy access to the top of the cliff up the right side, and a cable across the top of the cliff, along with a good selection of easy and moderate climbs, making this a favourite place for top-roping climbs and family outings.
approach
When the trail meets the Mont King cliffs, head rightwards along the base of the wall past the Vellot sector.
descent notes
Lower-off anchors, or walk-off to climber's right.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Illégitime
Possibilité de finir dans la deuxième longueur de Bastard. | 5.8 | ||||||
| 2 |
★★ Bastard
Climb a series of left-facing lay-back flakes past one horizontal crack to a second one. Traverse left past a dark streak to a light streak to belay right of a tree. Second pitch continues up rightwards from the belay. | 5.9 | 25m, 1 | |||||
| 3 |
★★★ Bastard Directe
Climb "Bastard" Until you see a bold on a face to your left. Finish at an anchor just above that bolt. | 5.10a | 1 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 4 | ★ Loved One | 5.8 | 25m | |||||
| 5 | ★ Peut-être | 5.4 | 25m | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Le Gorille Jaune Orange
Start on some horizontal cracks left of the roof above the start of "Staircase", traverse rightwards gently rising until in the corner shared with "Staircase", go up to the roof, dodge it to the left, then pull back right above the roof then up trending rightwards initially. | 5.6 | 25m | |||||
| 7 |
★★ Staircase
Start below a large roof a few meters up, below a small roof about 2m up (that gets larger further right). Pull some hard moves up over the first roof, then up to the large roof. Traverse up and right under the roof, then angle up and trending slight rightwards for a bit, before going directly upwards to anchors. After the 5.8 start, and 5.6 traverse under the roof, the rest of the climbing is 5.5. Many variations on the start exist. | 5.8 | 25m | |||||
| 8 |
★★★ Variation Staircase
Easier start than staircase. | 5.4 | 25m | |||||
| 9 |
Staircase directe
Straight up with Variation start. | 5.7 | 25m | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 10 | ★★★ Banisters | 5.6 | 25m | |||||
| 11 | ★★ Fiou | 5.8 | ||||||
| 12 | Ouf! | 5.11a | ||||||
| 13 |
L'esquive
FA: Paul Laperrière, 1997 | 5.7 | 25m | |||||
| 14 |
★★ Stagiaire
Exposed, watch out. | 5.7 E | 25m | |||||
| 15 |
★ Titulaire
Exposed, watch out. | 5.7 E | 25m | |||||
| 16 | ★ Elle | 5.7 | 20m | |||||
| 17 | ★ Bobino | 5.8 | ||||||
| 18 | Bobinette | 5.5 | 25m | |||||
| 19 | ★★ L.L. | 5.5 | 15m | |||||
| 20 | ★★ "8" | 5.5 | 15m | |||||
| 21 | ★★ Le Matou | 5.7 | 15m | |||||
| 22 |
★★ La Chatte A Louis
The arete at the right-end of the main part of the cliff. | 5.6 | 15m | |||||
1.8. Crown 16 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
This sector is the exposed face above the "Impreriale" sector.
approach
Climb one of the routes in the "Imperiale" sector, or possibly hike to the top of Mont King on the hiking trail, and then rappel in, or scramble down a trail to the face.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Surprise
FA: Paul Laperrière, Guy Lacelle & Benoit Dubé, 1981 | 5.7 | ||||
| 2 |
Licorne Directe
FA: Paul Laperrière, 1978 | 5.10d | ||||
| 3 |
Licorne
FA: Paul Laperrière, 1978 | 5.10b | ||||
| 4 |
Anchor
FA: Brian Rhothery, 1960 FFA: Edouard Pierre Gagnon, 1978 | 5.10b | ||||
| 5 |
Anchor Directe
FA: Benoit Dubé, 1985 | 5.10d | ||||
| 6 |
Banzai
FA: G.rard Bourbonnais & Benoit Dubé, 1979 | 5.11b | ||||
| 7 |
Les Bijoux de la Castafiore
FA: Paul Laperrière & Dominique Forget, 1989 | 5.11a | 1 | |||
| 8 |
Diadème
FA: Marc Blais & Jean Pierre Renaud, 1978 | 5.10c | ||||
| 9 |
Sa Majesté
FA: Normand Cadieux, 1989 | 5.12a | ||||
| 10 |
Les Diamants de la Couronne
FA: Normand Cadieux & Edouard Pierre Gagnon, 1977 | 5.10d | ||||
| 11 |
Dresden
FA: Paul Laperrière & Heinrich Habel, 1979 | 5.10d | ||||
| 12 |
Le Throne
FA: François Roy & Marc Blais, 1986 | 5.11a | ||||
| 13 |
Le Tsar
FA: Paul Laperrière & Jean-François Denis, 1999 | 5.12b | 4 | |||
| 14 | ★★★ Crown | 5.8 | ||||
| 15 | ★★★ The Crown (Directe) | 5.10a | ||||
| 16 |
Bonzai
FA: Guy Parent & Stéphane Audette | 5.11b | ||||
