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Mika's Ledge

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 665
  • Aka: Mika's平台

Seasonality

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Description

Impressive looking, vertical to overhanging crag. Even the easy routes are not that easy. But surely nice climbing in perspective.

A massive roof up on top of the mountain allows most of the routes of this sector to remain dry under the rain.

Half of the route starts off a 2 meters wide ledge that goes up to 8 meters. Be careful while belaying.

Access issues inherited from 临安狮头岩 Lion's Head

  • OSM已更新,新旧两条上山路都标记了。主流的走法是:过桥后马上从小路上山,岔路靠左斜切到新修栈道。 如果开车,可以停到栈道起点路边,会近不少。
  • 停车场百度地图定位
  • 2013-14 电子路书 供参考。注意:有些信息不准确,包括难度和Midlands和White China的挂片数,请以这里的更新过的信息为准。

Approach

Higher to the left after arriving at Lower 40's.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Set: Tyson Wallace, 2012

5.13a according to several people who sent it.

Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012

Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012

Set: Dave Gliddon & Joe Langwald (大石头), 2012

Set: Andrew Hedesh, Joe Langwald (大石头) & Dave Gliddon, 2012

FA: 阿成

Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012

Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012

Starts on top of 'Red Beans And Rice'. Updated to 5.14a by recent ascensionist (first ascent?).

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头) & Marcos Costa, 2012

FA: 任狐, Nov 2021

Climb these two pitches as a single starting on 'Almost Killed Bamboo Farmer' to a good rest. Prepare yourself for steep climbing and big moves on varied holds to the next anchor 15m up.

Set: 任狐, 24 Dec 2022

FA: 王清华, 28 Nov 2023

Climb these three pitches as a single starting on 'Almost Killed Bamboo Farmer' to a good rest. Prepare yourself for steep climbing and big moves on varied holds. Climb through the next anchor, 15m up which is the top of Phoenix Pursuit, and keep going till you top out onto the big ledge at Highlands. Congratulations! You've now climbed the hardest route at Lion's Head and one of the most difficult lines in all of China.

Set: 任狐, 9 Sep 2023

Crack climbing

Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012

Warning Fixed Gear: Damaged Anchor

First half of the route is a very technical slab climb with a powerful slightly overhung second half. Beautiful climb if you are delicate on your feet.

Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012

Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2012

Set: Joe Langwald (大石头) & Dave Gliddon, 2012

Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012

Set: Andrew Hedesh, 2012

Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012

从平台沿着路绳横移,在 '飞虎队' 的右边, '火力全开' 的左边。起点有保护站。

关于首攀临安最难线路“狮子王”

Set: Marcos Costa & 任狐

FA: 任狐, 8 Dec 2022

Starts from the top of 'Medicinal', left branch.

FA: 任狐

Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012

Access the belay ledge (with a two-ring anchor for the belayer to use) for Airwalker in one of three ways;

~ A slabby traverse to the right of Mika's Ledge, at the terminus of 'Dave's Traverse'

~ A few meters above the anchor for 'Medicinal'

~ Traverse 1 meter left from halfway up the Midlands route 'The Air Up There'

Airwalker veers to the right; the 5th bolt is where 'Airwalker' and 'Full Power' diverge.

Set: Dave Gliddon, 2012

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Fri 2 Jun
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