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Nad Holštejnskou jeskyní

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Access issues inherited from Czechia

Nature protection

Check current restrictions before you visit crag and be respectful to the nature. Most crags are located in nature protected areas, climbing there is subject to the consent of nature protection authorities and compliance with the conditions set by them.

Where to check:

  1. Český horolezecký svaz - Czech Mountaineering Association: Ochrana přírody - Nature protection (czech)

  2. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: vyhledávač - search engine (czech)

  3. Agentura ochrany přírody a krajiny ČR - Nature and Landscape Protection Agency of the Czech Republic: mapa - map (czech)

  4. Skalní oblasti ČR: Moisture conditions map, climbing restrictions map (czech)

or you can directly ask Czech Mountaineering Association on email info@horosvaz.cz

Ethic inherited from Holštejn

Since all of the cliffs are in the protected area, be extremely cautious not to cause any damage or mess in the area. There are several cliffs or rocks now banned for climbers - Pod Hradem, Mamut, Bílá Hvězda, Cvičiště and others.

Routes

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Grade Route

Between first and second bolt is useful sling.

FA: V. Gregor & J. Pelech, 1966

FA: I. Straka & B. Adamec, 1985

FA: Adam Ondra, 2005

FA: Z. Konečný & R. Hýsek, 1999

FA: P. Weisser & M. Žák, 1987

FA: Adam Ondra, 2005

FA: V. Wolf, 2006

FA: V. Pipal & Z. Bělohradová, 1968

FA: V. Wolf, 2006

FA: V. Wolf, 2006

Third bolt is more far but sequence there is relatively easy. Also is possible to use sling on the left (route Vítejte ve starých časech) between second and third bolt. After third bolt there are other two slings.

FA: J. Beneš & B. Prudil, 1981

FA: D. Janák, M. Horáček & M. Podbraná, 2006

The crux is above second bolt until you reach huge hold. There is possible to placed cams, nuts and on the right 5mm sling (otherwise there is risk of fall on the ground before third bolt).

FA: J. Beneš & A. Piňos, 1982

Little harder than Naše kaše, with same possibilities of assecuration between second and third bolt.

FA: V. Wolf, 2009

FA: P. Glozar & M. Beníšek, 1967

FA: P. Glozar & M. Beníšek, 1968

FA: V. Wolf, 2006

FA: V. Wolf, 2008

FA: V. Pipal & I. Šteflíček, 1978

  • 5 bolts in 25 meters!

FA: Z. Konečný & P. Brych, 1986

FA: Z. Konečný, 2005

FA: P. Němec & P. Hřebíček, 2008

FA: P. Weisser & V. Pipal, 1986

FA: P. Weisser & T. Pilka, 1986

FA: P. Weisser, 1989

FA: V. Wolf, 2007

FA: V. Wolf, 2007

FA: Z. Konečný, 2005

FA: Z. Konečný, 2005

FA: J. Šustr & B. Prudil, 1983

FA: Z. Konečný & R. Svoboda, 1986

FA: V. Wolf, 2006

FA: V. Pipal & I. Šteflíček, 1978

FA: V. Pipal & I. Šteflíček, 1978

FA: V. Wolf & A. Záděra, 2009

FA: V. Wolf & A. Záděra, 2009

FA: V. Wolf, 2010

FA: V. Wolf & A. Záděra, 2009

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