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Chateauvert

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 10
  • Ascents: 1,409
  • Aka: Vallon Sourn
  • Aka: Correns

Seasonality

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Summary

Great sport climbing area with hundreds of routes and easy access.

Description

A lovely set of buttresses tucked away in a sheltered, wooded valley with a tranquil river running through it and some great climbing, only minutes from the road.

The rock is a coarse textured and heavily pocketed limestone, and climbing on it is a real pleasure though hands can suffer from a prolonged visit here. The routes are well bolted almost without exception, and there is a huge range of climbs to choose from. Many of the pitches are very long, bring plenty of quick-draws and take note of the length of the route versus the length of your rope!

Much of the crag faces pretty much south, it is recessed and well sheltered, especially from northerlies. The crag is an ideal winter venue and is always popular especially at weekends. It can get very hot here at almost any time of the year, though the crags at the far eastern end of the valley and much of the Grande Face are tipped a bit to the east and go into the shade earlier than the rest of the cliff.

The Topo Grimper en Provence Verte (see guidebooks) can also be acquired at the grocery store in Correns.

Kid friendliness: The Grand Face is not suitable for small children as the base consists of sloping and slippery rock. Some of the other sectors (especially those next to the road) have a flat base where you can even access them with a pram.

Access issues inherited from France

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Approach

Park here (43.4968, 6.0393) or here (43.4967, 6.0553) From there it‘s only a short walk to the sectors.

Ethic inherited from France

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

History

History timeline chart

The area was discovered in the 1960s and the first routes set by Jean Fabre in 1969 (Golot Fou). In the 1980s, Jean-Marc Roman et Thierry Oudin open more routes between 6c and 8b+ (Les Frontieres du Neant, Are you ready, Les Couleurs du Charme, Les elements ne font pas de cadeau, Power...). The cliff was closed from 1990 to 1994 but was reopened to the public and re-equipped to modern standards thanks to the FFME.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Author collective

Date: 2020

The comprehensive climbing guidebook Var Tome 1 is an overview of the various climbing areas in the Var department - all in all the guidebook lists more than 2000 routes in 33 areas ...

Author(s): Philippe Bugada

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9782952637831

A conprehensive guidebook describing the limestone sport climbing at the famous Vallon Sourn crag, and also covering the crags of L'Hacienda at Val Obscur, La Roquette at Correns and Site de Brauch at Carcès.

Author(s): Chris Craggs

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9781873341285

A selective guidebook describing 10 major sport climbing areas in the Cote d’Azur region, which are Verdon Gorge, Sainte Victoire, Les Calanques, Toulon area, Chateavert, Chateaudouble, Massif del’Esterel, Gorges du Loup, Saint-Jeannet, and around the Monaco. area.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 2 Jun
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