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Petit Dru 3733m

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 6
4
YDS

Seasonality

J
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M
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M
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Summary

3730 m.

Access issues inherited from France

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Where to stay

Refuge de la Charpoua

Ethic inherited from France

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

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Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

Partially nonexistant due to rockfall

FA: W. Bonatti, 1955

One of the 6 classic North Faces. A major classic climb in many ways. Serious approach and long and complicated descent.

FA: P. Allain & R. Leininger, 1935

From hut, walk up rognon behind hut to access glacier, cross glacier to base of route at approx 3000m. Simulclimb for 500m crossing first gully before using second gully to gain ridge. Continue simul-climbing until reaching terrain where the need to begin pitching becomes obvious. Climb 17wandering pitches to gain summit of Petit Dru 3730m before descending to Brecht des Drus then climbing 2 more pitches to gain summit of Grand Dru 3750m. Walk off SE side of Grand Dru approx 100m below summit to find a small natural pinnacle with the first bolted abseil anchor. Complete 8-10 abseils always trending abseiled right to locate next anchor and eventually reach glacier.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): François Damilano, Julien Désécures & Louis Laurent

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9782918824398

A selective rock climbing guidebook covering the Geant, Cirque Maudit and Vallee Blanche areas that are located mainly on the south and east of Mont Blanc, covering 135 routes.

Author(s): François Damilano, Julien Désécures & Louis Laurent

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9782918824329

A selective rock climbing guidebook describing the Charpoua, Talefre and Leschaux areas in the Monte Blanc range that are located on the right bank of the Mer de Glace, covering 98 routes.

Author(s): Marco Romelli & Valentino Cividini

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9788885468535

A selective guidebook describing all 82 of the official 4,000m peaks and mountains in the Alps, via their normal and classic routes, spread across 9 regions in France, Switzerland and Italy.

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Fri 2 Jun
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