Help

Conradturm

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Schartenwand des großen Pfeilers, Riss (R) auf Pfeiler, absteigen und "Kurzer Weg" zG.

FA: Felix Friedrich & J. Friedrich, 22 Jul 2021

Vom Einstieg "Weg der Regenväter Erwähnung" (Khan) links schmale Wand (R) auf Schartenpfeiler (Nachholering). Beliebig zG.

11/2023: Ring illegal und dilettantisch gezogen. Von der AG Neue Wege des SBB daher vorerst nicht anerkannt. Widerspruch und Antrag der Erstbegeher auf Wiederinstallation läuft.

FA: Felix Friedrich, J. Friedrich & P. Zuppke, 20 May 2022

Links von "Kurzer Weg" bei Kante zG.

Vom Pfeiler in der Scharte Sprung zu kleinem Absatz.

Rechts der Wandfalte Rissspur und Wand zum Absatz.

A.F. Xa

AF Xa. Vom 4.R "Sniper" gerade (2R) z.G.

FA: Frank Wehner, 31 Aug 2019

A.F. VIIIa

A.F. VIIIa

with support VI

Links vom "Südwestriss" Wand (R) zum Band vom "Querweg" Diesen kreuzen, teilweise linksgeneigte Rippe nutzend (R) zu Band. Wand (R) zum "Gratweg". Diesen zG.

FA: Kurt Kmoch & Felix Friedrich, 10 Jun 2021

AF VIIIa

AF IXb. Vom Einstieg der "Tenkenzberger Tour" gerade und Überhang (2R), "Querweg" kreuzend, zu 2.R der "Querrippe". Wand gerade (2R) zum "Gratweg". Diesen zG.

FA: Felix Friedrich & J. Friedrich, 18 Apr 2021

Links von "Alternativlos" überhängende Wand und stumpfe Kante (3R) auf Reibung, "Querweg" kreuzend und Band nach links zu "Querrippe". Diese bis 2.R und "Alternativlos" zu "Gratweg". Diesen zG.

FA: Felix Friedrich & Peter Zuppke, 22 Dec 2021

unterstützt / w/ support V

AF VIIIa

with support VIIb

AF VIIIb

FA: Joachim Friedrich & Fe. Friedrich, 2006

FA: Joachim Friedrich & Fe. Friedrich, 2006

FA: Bernd Arnold, G. Lamm & G. Ludewig, 1982

unterstützt / w/ support VIIIa

"Gebogener Riss" 8m hoch und Wand (2R) zum letzten R "Direkte Abendwand Ausstiegsvariante".

FA: Thomas Willenberg, 2007

unterstützt / w/ support VIIIa

unterstützt / w/ support VIIa

unterstützt / w/ support IXa

Links der "Räuberleiter" Reibung und Band (2R), "Abendwand" kreuzend, Überang (R), über diesen und stumpfe Kante (R) zu Band, "Leichter Weg" kreuzend, zG.

FA: Felix Friedrich, Peter Zuppke & J. Friedrich, 20 May 2022

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): H. Schulze & V. Hölker

Date: 2022

Author(s): B. Arnold

Date: 2017

Der Kletterführer bietet den ultimativen Überblick über die großen klassischen Kletterwege an den bis zu 100 Meter hohen Felsen des Elbsandsteingebirges.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Fri 26 May
Check out what is happening in Conradturm.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文