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Malia

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Description

Malia is surrounded by olive groves and the slopes of mount Selena. Malia is best known for its lively atmosphere; however Malia is not only for young people, it has a lot to offer everyone (almost) especially if you visit the old city and a few km before the traditional village of Koutouloufari, you wont regret it. The beach is the one of the best in Crete, three miles of fine, golden sand, which gradually slopes into the warm, clear blue sea. Just a few km away there is a climbing spot too.

30m high rock near the tourist busy city Malia. Shady and rain proof. Beautiful panorama.

Video King Swing.

Featured in "Climbing in Crete - From North to South", Phillipe Bugada, 2009, ISBN 9782952637817.

Approach

(35.282534, 25.450825)

(Door35.282073, 25.451118)

(35.283444, 25.448534)

From Heraklion when you arrive at Malia you can see the crag at your right. Then pay attention to a road on your right (just after "Skyline rent a car") there is a notice "Matheo Hotel". Turn right there and follow the road as it goes with direction to the rocks on the right. After you pass a small hotel there is a small parking on the right, park there.

From that point go 50m back and you will see a small hand made door in front of you (blue sign "Bike & Hiking Trail"). The 2009 guidebook says "Open it and follow the red signs. You will need around 10 minutes to get to the rocks." In 2022 now there is another fence right behind this door. Once the 2nd barrier is crossed. Follow it on your right following large cairns that we built. Once you arrive at the “slabs”, leave the barrier and climb to the cairn. From there follow the path dotted with blue dots and cairns (2023).

Another not recommended option is following the road further west into an olive grove and climb a fence there and go through bushes directly up to the crag. If you find a good approach please add it here.

Routes

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Grade Route

Nice lower part, hard crux at last bolt. Anchorchain rusted but bolts still okayish.

FA: Katerina Mastoraki & Philippe Bugada, 2008

A really "shitty" route... 🐦

FA: M. Kampourakis & S. Kouthouris

A classic of this sector, very interesting but also demanding.

FA: A. Mavromatis & G. Spinthakis

As its name implies (head case) it can be difficult to understand. Pure stamina on widely spaced holds.

FA: Aris Mavromatis

Very bouldery.

FA: S. Psirropoulos, A. Mavromatis & G. Spinthakis, 2004

Two problematical moves.

Set: Spiros Kouthouris

Climbing on concretions.

FA: S. Psirropoulos, M. Kampourakis & G. Spinthakis, 2004

A really nice internary, not even spoilt by the droppings.

FA: Manolis Kampourakis

Defined crux at the roof, rest is 5.

FA: Manolis Kampourakis

A difficult section to approach, a bit fingery...

FA: Manolis Kampourakis

A technical corner with a nice aerial finish.

FA: Philippe Bugada, 2008

A ridge to straddle. Fairly difficult to onsight.

FA: Philippe Bugada, 2008

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Bugada

Date: 2009

ISBN: 9782952637817

A selective guidebook describing 6 different rock climbing areas in Crete in the central part of the island, including the crag of Agiofarango, and covering over 250 routes.

Author(s): Bugada

Date: 2009

ISBN: 9782952637817

A selective guidebook describing 6 different rock climbing areas in Crete in the central part of the island, including the crag of Agiofarango, and covering over 250 routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Fri 2 Jun
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