Routes in Greece for selected grade

#SD

#SD

#SD

#SD

http://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/Mpaompap

from my opinion is V, IV, VI-

underneath is written V-

Rappel down from "A windy full moon day" (2X35m)

R1 50m, R2 20m, R3 50m

1979 Αβραμόπουλος Α. – Σούλας Γ. (V-/V)

2017 Ανδρέου Κ. – Κοκκίνης Σ.

2018 Ανδρέου Κ. – Κοκκίνης Σ.

(inox bolted 04/2024)

First pitch 5- 35m, second pitch 5- 40m. There are some bolts and anchors but trad gear neaded.

https://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/Incognito

Easy vegetated first pitch. Second pitch: dihedral/chimney climbing. Can be climbed with trad gear easily.

Slings

1-2 small nuts (size 1)

Nothing to talk about. Vegetation and a easy corner at the end.

Easy climb between vegetation and loose rocks. Some bolts, few nuts and that's all.

Hard, serious with loose rocks route. There are 2 alternative entrances at the same difficulty.

At the center of the wall. Classic, without difficulties. Good entrance for the sector.

The quality of the rock is good enough, except for some parts of the 3rd pitch and of the exit of the variation of the 4th pitch. The necessary equipment for this climb is a set of nuts and a few friends.

No serious danger is caused by the quality of the rock, which appears to be good enough. In order to climb this route, the necessary equipment is a set of nuts and a few friends.

Used to be 4a, Climb Greece 2017 guideboook 4c.

I take the infos from this sites : https://www.locasbotas.gr/copy-of-bathmoi-dyskolias-2

https://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/TsirioToProto

The route location is: 37°52'27.9"N 22°58'04.0"E https://maps.app.goo.gl/Qf1aLFgHD19E7Zne7?g_st=ic

P1 3 bolts. Starts a bit to the left (the first bolt is placed too low to be of any use, probably there to show the right entry point). Easy slab climbing. You can sling a couple of big pebbles, two more bolts at the steeper part. Single ring anchor.

P2 no bolts. Low angle dihedral, when it gets a bit steeper at the end it can be climbed as a chimney. You can continue to the first bolt of the 3rd pitch so that the 3rd pitch will be directly above the belay.

P3 2 bolts. Easy start up to the first bolt, then straight up the chimney.You can place a couple of threads and a #6 Camalot. There's a second bolt and the anchor (two rings) is on the right side over a big embedded rock.

P4 2 bolts. Up the chimney past the first bolt, a bit outwards and up to the old threads (it is a good idea to back them up with a sling of your own). Still outwards and upwards past the last bolt. You can walk a #6 for a while. You can also choose how much you want to squeeze, in for safety, out for comfort. Comfortable single ring anchor on a ledge.

P5 no bolts. Wide chimney which becomes almost horizontal up to the single ring anchor.

http://www.routes.gr/?Page=el/Climbing/Routes/Schildkrotenpfad

P1 6 bolts, P2 2 bolts, P3 3 bolts, P4 1 bolt.

After the abseil place you can walk 30m to the top and the route book. Abseil the same way down (4 rappels).

Mostly scrambling with some steep steps.

The ridge at the right end of the great wall

Toooo vegetated, and very loose.

...at the center of the Great Wall.

The first route on this wall. 3 different starts, the left one is the hardest (VI trad). Leftward climbing and belay at the big tree. The 2nd pitch has two variations. The 1rst ascenionists followed righrward and up the loose ledge and then to left (1 bolt) on the ledge. Belay on 2 bolts. For the 2nd pitch is more logical to climb left of the 1st belay and then up to the ledge. The 3nd pitch follows the crack straight up then scramble until the tower (1 piton). From the tower follow the crack for 20meters (3 bolts). Belay on a bolt and a small friend.