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Showing all 21 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Cinque Torri Torre Grande Cima Sud Parete Sud
{UIAA} 5 Myriam
1 5 30m
2 4+ 22m
3 3 28m
4 4+ 10m
5 4 12m
6 5 30m
7 5 30m
8 3+ 25m

Online topo: https://www.bergsteigen.com/fileadmin/userdaten/import/topos/2133_Topo_2fd03b0c-0378-4a06-a43a-faa85c5e78b9_via%20miriam%20cinque%20torri.pdf

FA: A. Dimai, G. Dimai, A. Gaspari & Miriam E. O'Brien, 1927

Trad 190m, 8
Cinque Torri Torre Latina
4c Scuola di roccia #8 Sport 16m, 10
4c Scuola di roccia #11

On the lower right wall, anchor is a maillon on a single bolt

Sport 8m
Gruppo Nuvolau Averau
{UIAA} 5 Alvera
1 5 25m
2 4 30m
3 4 20m
4 4+ 12m
5 4 30m
6 4 28m
7 4 30m

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/alvera-monte-averau/

FA: S. Alvera & L. Manardi, 1949

Trad 180m, 7
Gruppo Nuvolau Rene' de Pol
4c El gato de piombo Sport 16m
Gruppo Nuvolau Croda Negra
{UIAA} 5 Elisabetta und Mittlere
1 5-
2 5-
3 5
4 4+
5 5

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/elisabetta-und-mittlere-croda-negra/

FA: E. Cipriani & M. Speri, 1997

Mixed trad 130m, 5, 13
Gruppo Nuvolau Coston d'Averau
{UIAA} 5 Variante Via Dibona

Around the corner in the left part of the wall as Via Dibona. To the left of Compay Segundo road. Then left. Old slings. http://gianpasora.blogspot.com/2011/08/cesare-e-il-coston-daverau.html

FA: P. Michiell & G. Testor

Trad 250m, 9
{UIAA} 5 Via Dibona

Corner in the left part of the wall. To the left of Compay Segundo route. Old slings. http://gianpasora.blogspot.com/2011/08/cesare-e-il-coston-daverau.html

FA: Angelo Dibona & Sconosciut.

Trad 250m, 9
{UIAA} 5 Camino sud-ovest
1 5 35m
2 4 23m
3 5- 20m
4 4 40m
5 4 40m
6 4- 35m
7 4 40m
8 2 100m

http://quartogrado.com/relazioni/COSTON%20AVERAU_Camino%20SO.htm

FA: O. De Biaso & G. Testor, 1980

Trad 330m, 7
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Cima Grande di Lavaredo Parete Nord
{UIAA} 5 A2 Sachsenweg Aid
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Cima Grande di Lavaredo Parete Sud
{UIAA} 5 "Dabistebaff"

Start 10 m right of the normal route, then up to a crack and chimney line, which ends at the ring ledge

FA: Richard Goedeke, Herbert Konnerth & M. Zink, 1982

Trad 300m
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Cima Piccola Punta di Frida
4+ Via Dülfer

Einstieg am Beginn der Schlucht (Aneroid 2480 m). Der erste Abbruch wird in der Mitte, von rechts nach links ansteigend, überklettert. Unter der nächsten Steilstufe auf einem Kriechbande etwa 20m nach rechts schwierig mit Benutzung eines Risses auf das nächsthöhere Band und auf ihm, zuletzt kriechend, wieder in die Schlucht zurück. Ein paar Meter absteigen und, erst in der Ecke links, dann nach rechts querend, schwierig über den nächsten Abbruch. Weiter bis zu einer Höhle (2540 m), aus der man durch ein Loch oben links hinausgelangt. Nun leichter über Geröll und durch eine Kaminreihe rechts auf die Scharte (2600 m) zwischen Punta di Frida und Kleinster Zinne.

Von der Scharte durch einen gelben Rill zuerst schwierig 25 m hinauf zu einem Felsköpfl in der Nordwand der Punta di Frida. Quergang 30 m nach rechts. (Durch die fortsetzung dies Querganges - zuerst auf das nächsttiefere Band absteigen - lassen sich die Schrofen unterhalb des Nordwandsattels gewinnen.) Nun auf ein 15m höher gelegenes Schuttband entweder gerade hinauf. über eine äußerst schwierige Wand oder bedeutend leichter durch eine große Schleife rechts, indem man erst 8 m absteigt. Schräg rechts (brüchig) ansteigend über eine schwierige Wandstelle in einen Kamin, den man knapp oberhalb seines ungangbaren Abbruches erreicht (2650 m). Im Kamin, der von der Hütte als feiner Stich sichtbar ist, über mehrere Überhänge aufwärts; nach 25 m exponierter und schwieriger Quergang etwa 10 m nach links, dann gerade hinauf zu einem kleinen Geröllfleck unter einem nach rechts ziehenden Spalt. Durch ihn auf ein kurzes Band (Steinmann) und noch 10 m schräg rechts aufwärts. Ein paar Meter unter einem auffallenden, aus einigen Blöcken gebildeten Bogen nach links zu einem Kamin, der auf leichteres Terrain leitet. Beliebig links zum Gipfel der Punta di Frida. Normale Dauer der Kletterei von der Scharte his zum Gipfel etwa 1 1/2 Stunden.

Die Route ermöglicht eine vollständige Überschreitung des Massivs der Kleinen Zinne von Nordosten nach Südwesten: Kleinste Zinne (Nordostwand, Abstieg nach Südwesten zur Scharte) - Punta di Frida (Nordwand, Abstieg zum Nordwandsattel) - Kleine Zinne (Nordwand, Abstieg auf dem gewöhnlichen Wege).

(Veröffentlicht im Jahresbericht 1912 der Alpenvereinsektion Bayerland)

FA: Hans Dülfer †, Werner Schaarschmidt, G. B. Piaz, K. Jelinek & M. Michelsohn, 1912

Trad
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Cima Piccola Torre Preuß
{UIAA} 5 Pruess Crack
1 4 18m
2 1 7m
3 5 20m
4 5 30m
5 5- 35m
6 4+ 35m
7 4+ 40m
8 4+ 50m
  1. Start right from the plate, up and right trough cracks/corners on the ledge.

  2. Ledge (join with the first pitch), go left, anchor is just below the crack.

  3. Up the crack above the anchor, slightly right and up after the second piton.

  4. Straight up from the anchor, layback, continue left. Anchor is at the bottom of the big chimney,

  5. Climb on the right wall (on the edge), clip the sling and go left to the chimney. Continue in the chimney, to the anchor.

  6. Climb in the chimney. After approx. 20m there is an anchor, but you can continue (climb on the left side) another 15m to the start of the most exposed pitch. The anchor is 3m deep in the chimney.

  7. The coolest pitch (see the picture). Just go up, above the anchor keep going up and left to the outer side of the chimney. There are 2 pitons after 30m. You can belay from here. (In some topos the pitch is 40m.. so you can perhaps belay bit further somewhere below the stuck boulder)..

  8. Go up the chimney to the stuck boulder. In some topos, after the boulder, you can climb on the right wall. However the rock is quite loose. I was told that it’s better to stay in the chimney..

Descend: There is probably more options. I will describe how we did it:

  1. On the top of the tower on the south side there is anchor. Start rappelling and keep a bit left (if you are looking to the top) . You’ll see a new anchor after less than 30m..

  2. Don’t rappel straight down. Keep left, you have to rappel to the west edge of the tower to the cairn. Not sure it this is less than 30m but it should be possible.. last few meters are easy

  3. use an older anchor with a big ring on the west edge near the cairn, and rappel down to the saddle. There is an anchor (a bolt) in between (maybe after 15m) if you have double ropes, you can skip this and just rappel down..

  4. Rappel down the couloir, the anchor is in less than 30m, on the left wall (if you are looking to the saddle)

  5. Rappel down the couloir, 55m, the ring is on a big boulder in the couloir. If you have shorter rope, you can walk down, however there may be a lot of snow in the couloir in early summer (Jun, July)

  6. Rappel down the couloir (40-50m), the bolt is on the right wall, connected with a sling with a ring in the couloir.

  7. Final rappel, straight down.

Notes:

  1. You don’t have to climb with the shoes, the start of the route is just 5min away from the couloir you will descend..

  2. There are lot of stones in the couloir, the rappelling is quite dangerous if there are other parties descending.

FA: Paul Preuß & P. Relly, 1911

Trad 240m, 8
Crepe De Oucera Bassi Settore A
4c Escluso autoveicoli Sport 27m
Campo Volpera
4c Senza nome Sport 10m
4c Senza nome Sport 10m
Croda da Lago Lastoi de Formin
{UIAA} 5 IV Bastione de Mondeval - Sperone Irene
1 4
2 5
3 5
4 5
5 4
6 4

Italian description e topo: https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/bastionemondeval/bastionemondeval.htm

Trad 210m, 6
Gruppo Tofane Tofana di Rozes
{UIAA} 5 Terzo spigolo

The Alverà Pompanin climbing route is indeed a popular and challenging route on Tofana di Rozes in the Tofane Range of the Dolomites.

The Alverà Pompanin climbing route, also known as Terzo Spigolo climbing route, follows the prominent south ridge of Tofana di Rozes. It is considered one of the classic and demanding climbs in the Dolomites, offering a mix of technical climbing and exposed sections.

The route includes steep rock faces, exposed sections, and some chimney climbs, providing an exciting and physically demanding climbing experience.

The difficulty of the Alverà Pompanin route is graded as UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme) V. The climbing route, 700 meters long, unfolds in 17 lengths with an elevation gain of 550 meters.

The Alverà Pompanin climbing route on Tofana di Rozes offers a memorable and rewarding climbing experience, combining stunning views with a challenging ascent in the beautiful Dolomite landscape. Source Powrock

FA: A. Alverà & U. Pompanin, 1946

Trad 550m, 17
4+ Via Eötvös-Dimai

FA: Antonio Dimai, Roland Eötvös, G. Sorpaes & A. Verzi, 1901

Trad 850m, 21
Gruppo Tofane Col dei Bos
{UIAA} 5 Alvera Trad 250m
Longarone: Palasport Vie Di Destra
4c Jurassic Park Sport 8m

Showing all 21 routes.

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