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Upper Mostly Trad climbing 30 routes in sector

30
FR
4a4b+5a5b+6a6b6c7a7b7c8a

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Description

The upper sector has another mix of great trad and sport cracks to explore.

Approach

A further 5 min up from the obvious central sector.

Ethic inherited from Cadarese

Cracks here are often bolted, though newer lines are usually done on trad. Make sure to consult local groups before adding any bolts, bolts have been chopped. Route names can be identified by writing at the base of the climb.

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Contents

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Routes

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Grade Route

Upper Alcove Back to contents

Past the main Upper sector is an alcove containing a small collection of routes.

2
7b+ Orazio Furioso Sport 35m
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3
6a+ ★★ Megera Crack Trad 25m

Start up the corner before gaining the hand crack on the right wall, then climb the blocky section above. Worth the walk, even though there is a little questionable rock, and it can be dirty due to runoff. Take cams up to #4.

4
6c Muschio Selvaggio Trad

Main Wall Upper Tier Back to contents

This sector has a red rope to help with the exposed traverse along its base.

6
6c Attenti al Buco Sport 25m
7
6c ★ Attenti al Buco Trad Trad 25m
8
7a Imbuto Crack Sport 20m
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7a ★★★ Imbuto Crack Trad Trad 20m
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7b ★★ Fessura Fallica Sport 35m, 2
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6b+ ★★ Fessura Fallica Trad Trad 20m

first pitch

12
7a+ Sdulferando Sport 25m
13
7a+ ★★★ Sdulferando Trad Trad 25m
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14
7b+ ★★★ Foglie Cadenti Trad 35m, 2
15
8a ★★★ The Doors Trad 35m
16
6a Senza Nome Trad
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17
7c Falce e martello Sport

L1 7c 25m; L2 7b 15m

18
6a ??? Trad 15m
19
4a Chimney Trad 15m

no protection

Main Wall Lower Tier Back to contents

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6c+ ★★ Perturbata Sport 20m
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6a+ Corta ma facile Trad 15m
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7a+ Corta ma cattiva Trad 15m
24
6b ★ Corta ma carina Trad 15m
25
7a+ Soft Grit Trad 15m
26
6c+ Porcini a gogo Trad 20m

Terra di mezzo Back to contents

Routes scattered on the approach up the hill towards the Upper Sector main wall.

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28
6a+ ★★ Black Dihedral Trad 15m
29
7b ?? Trad 15m
30
6a ★ Monster Spatz Trad 8m
31
6a+ Gold Spatz Trad 15m
32
6b+ ★★ Petit Prince Trad 15m

Warning Rock: Flake moving

33
6b Spazzocamino Trad 25m
34
8a Changing Corners Trad

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Ossola Rock

Author(s): P. Stoppini, M. Pellizzon, F. Manoni

Date: 2019

Im Kletterführer Ossola Rock werden auf 552 Seiten nicht nur alpine und Plaisir-Sportkletterrouten dieser Region beschrieben, sondern auch die schon bekannten Klettergärten sowie neu erschlossene Sektoren, z.B. Nibbio und Ponte Romano beschrieben.

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Nearby Icons

7a+ ★★★ Sdulferando Trad
8a ★★★ The Doors

Photos Browse all photos

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★★★ Foglie Cadenti 7b+ - First Pitch (6b)

Jiří Železný on ★★★ Foglie Cadenti 7b+ - 20230930_142920.jpg

Mirko on ★★★ Foglie Cadenti 7b+ - IMG_0359_stitch.jpg

★★★ Foglie Cadenti 7b+ - 20230930_142743.jpg

Sat 6 May
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