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Tougenkyou

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 59
  • Aka: 桃源郷

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Maku Iwa

As of March 2010 there are some access issues with the left-hand band of cliffs from the parking lot. Climbers are asked to climb only on the right hand side (Wonderland/Ali Baba area) until this has been resolved.

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

Routes

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Grade Route

Very balancy and technical climb up the aeret

2 star sport route - overhanging, thin route, normally with in-place dogger hanging off the crux bolt. Just to the left of the main arete up overhanging wall.

Straight up the arete right of Diamond Hip. Crux is a long reach up near the top. Reaching around to the crack on the right reduces difficulty to 5.8 or so - go straight up!

First climb you come to on the walk up. Great beginner route. Straight up the slabby face to the chains

Start 2m right of Silk Road. Up the crack to the right of Silk Road. One of the only trad climbs at Makuiwa, and a good climb for beginner leaders. Easy to bail from or move over and clip bolts on Silk Road if needed.

The name of the climb translates to "Don't Cheat".

Climb start a few metres right of Washing.

Another good easy lead, fun slab/face climbing, a bit thought provoking in places. Good intro to andesite.

On the left of とけいワニ with shared tree anchor with rope and carabiners already in place.

A delicate slab climb leading into an undercling used to pass the small overhang by the left side

Short, bouldery climb. Walk up right of the Wonderland area, past one rock with a couple of routes on it, and this is on a seperate rock with two routes, one on each face. Abracadabra goes up the middle of the face, Zelda is on the right of the arete on the overhanging face.

Just to the right of Abracadabra, on the right of the arete on the overhanging side. Boulder problem climb with tricky crux down low. Not sure why the guidebook gives it 2 stars.

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Fri 2 Jun
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