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Main Wall

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Description

The crag is North-facing, however, due to the proximity of Kuala Lumpur to the equator the crag experiences all-day sun from March to August.

Access issues inherited from Damai Wall

The crag is managed by Gau Damai Extreme Park. The site has rubbish bins to keep it litter free. There are toilets but you must pay a separate fee to use them. There are often beginners courses run on weekends.

Entrance fee is 5RM for Malaysians and 10RM for visitors.

Helmets must be worn for both climber and belayer. You can rent one (but they are sweaty) at the entrance.

Approach

None.

Routes

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Grade Route

Grade changed to match occurrence in Damai Left Wall

P1 5c+ 22m 10 bolts P2 6a+ 25m 9 bolts

Warning Fixed Gear: Avoid the tape anchor

Warning Fixed Gear: Bolt hanger missing

1 5b
2 5c
3 6a

P1-Climbs between the tufas immediately left of 'Granular Spindrift', then heads slightly rightwards to the 'Monkey Line' belay; 5b 25m.

P2-Step left onto the wall, and either pass the stalactite on the left to gain a faint groove that leads back rightwards across the wall, or alternatively climb the rightside of the stalactite (clipping the bolt) and then straight up the wall. Gain a small cave with a pillar (thread) and then a second larger cave with larger pillar; cam and thread belay, 5c 25m.

P3- exit the cave on the right with a high thin thread through the stalactite veil. Use the stalacite to gain the wall above, good cam placements, then step left above the cave and continue straight up to the Good Onion belay. Clipping the first bolt on P3 'Good Onion' reduces rope drag; 6a 25m.

FA: Gordon Scott, Edwin Goh & Samantha Tan, 16 Feb 2023

Short route between Good Onion and Granular Spindrift.

1 5c
2 5c
3 5c

P1 Climbs the first pitch of Redemption Song to belay under the small cave 25m 5c. P2 Leave the belay on the right hand side of the cave and climb the rib using trad gear (cams and nuts) then pass through the trees (slings) to gain the groove that runs up the left side of the Good Onion arete. Follow this to the top (cams, nuts and threads). Don't step right at the top to clip the last bolts of Good Onion. Use the Good Onion belay. 28m 5c P3 From the Good Onion belay climb the pocketed rock straight above the belay to gain the small niche (thread runer here). Holiday in the Bamboo Hotel continues straight up. Traverse left along the break towards the small tree (thread runner) and then step further left to gain the bolts of Redemption Song and the belay. 20m 5c. Abseil down Redemption Song

FA: Gordon Scott, Edwin Goh & See Swee Yen, 29 Sep 2022

climb pass the route Lead Man's anchor and continue to higher anchor where the 2nd pitch start. climb the line straight up until you see arete where the bolt start to go left up. recommended to carry 2-3 alpine quickdraw for avoiding rope drag.

Set: Eddie ks & KY, 31 Mar 2023

Also, Route Extension: "Just realized" (6b) 25mtr. (Akmal Noor 2003) Original Lightning Grip anchor removed.

Monsoon got its name because it rained when they were bolting this route (or something to that effect).

Pitch 1

  • Climb straight up from the ground
  • Reach an anchor at approximately 10 meters in height
  • Do not stop at the anchor; continue climbing
  • The first anchor is on the left of the massive cave's roof

Pitch 2

  • Climb up and right
  • Pass a small tufa overhang, then you see the first bolt
  • This pitch is the shortest

Pitch 3

  • Climb straight up
  • End at the left side of a bush

Pitch 4

  • Climb straight up, then slightly right
  • Face the crux of the pitch, a slab where you start going up and right

Pitch 5

  • This pitch is not in the topo
  • Climb up through a big overhang under the base jumping platform
  • Still a project and ungraded, could be very difficult

Note: Ants are expected along the route.

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