Routes as sport in Malaysia

Same start as Viserion, go straight up, follow the black/white streak. The route joins Viserion at its 4th anchor, then split going straight through the roof instead of heading right to Viserion 5th anchor... then join Viserion again for last pitch.

This fabulous 7 pitch route starts down to the left of big hole and runs up three pitches to a roof, traverses left for the fourth pitch, then goes all the way up a further three pitches to the summit. Bolted all the way, need at least 12 draws (recommend 2 alpine), plus two 60m ropes. All anchors have fixed biners. Recommend rappel pitch 7, then 6+5 together, then the rest in a single go from the top of pitch 4. The crux pitch is a 6c with powerful overhung moves, but has some fixed gear to help french aid if needed.

same anchor as Templer Handsaw Massacre

Starts at The Eye level two bolt anchor left do big hole. Has Ram’s Horns at the anchor.

p1: same start as Chesire Cat, then traverse right along the ledge (follow the glue-in bolts)

p2: straight up, 10 glue-in bolts.

p3: up then traverse right towards 3rd anchor of Mediocracy. 7 bolts

p4: head right (first clip on a thread) diagonaly. 1thread + 7bolts.

descending: rappel straight down to the 1st anchor of Pra Nang Start.

Balance. Start and belay from the hole. There is safety anchor for belaying.

extension of Happy Feet, over the stalactite and roof.

same start as Mediocracy (the high ledge right corner of the cave)

P1: traverse left to the anchor below a small roof.

P2: Up and pass through the first anchor of Mediocracy, then traverse right, share same 2nd anchor with Mediocracy.

P3: Go straight up to the same 3rd anchor of Mediocracy... (also alternative route on right, ending same point, grade similar)

P4: up the dihedral left lines of bolts... after 4 clips traverse leftwards to an anchor shared with Rutsch nach Rechts...

P5 & P6: choose the right lines. (left lines belong to Rutsch nach Rechts)

Descending: lower to a Rappel station located between the 5th anchor and last point of Mediocracy... then from here rappel straight to the 3rd anchor (with some back-clipping)

Begins on the ledge at the right of the big hole. Route goes up and left under the roof past the stalactites to a stance. Second pitch runs up and traverses right to a second stance. Third pitch can go up for a 5c or variant further right for a 6a which both converge at the same stance. The 4th pitch goes straight up the offwidth (excellent climbing) and the crux is easily avoided by swinging on the second bolt, reducing the grade or 5c(A0). The entire route is overhung and stays dry, but requires back-clipping to rappel the last pitch. With twin 60m ropes it is possible to rap directly to the ground from the top of the 3rd pitch .

Pumpy start and boulder problem just before finish.Right of the hole.

extension of Sponge Bolt

Joint with Nibiru at the dead tree

Extension of Talk Nerdy to Me.

14 boths + 2 slings

Atomic Arms is an old classic of the pioneer days of Malaysian climbing. This route has seen a rebolting process around 20 years ago when the old philips insert bolts got replaced by expansion anchors. However, most of those expansion bolts were beyond expiry date, some of them seriously rusted. With respect to the historical significance of this awesome line and fitting to the name we used titanium bolts and a titanium rams horn for the upgrade. We also managed to remove the old piton, which was placed a bit off line. There is still a weird hexagon bolt hammered into a hole, which we could not remove ( we will need to grind it off). We decided to place the bolts a bit differently to avoid the strenuous clip at the 3rd ( former ) bolt, which per se made it to be the crux. Now the climbing and protection is a bit more straight forward with a bit a longer run out though. The route is a true marvel and features some of the hardest limestone on this planet ( it took one full battery to drill the anchor!)

4 bolts + 1 threads.

4 bolts + 1 thread.

4 bolts + 2 threads.

4 bolts + 2 threads.

5 bolts + 1 threads.

6 bolts + 1 thread.

6 bolts + 1 thread.

8 bolts + 1 threads.

7 bolts + 3 threads.

5 bolts + 3 threads.

4 bolts + 3 threads.