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The Balcony

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Description

This is not an area for beginners or your belay BF/GF, the main ledge is 80m off the ground, use a minimum 60m rope and tie a knot in the end. - Bring a helmet and clip in on the access ropes. - If you are working a route, lower off your own gear NOT THE ANCHORS - If bolting new routes only use 316 stainless, expansions or glue ins, please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for lots of independent lines. - Go for a walk! If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision. - Avoid damaging any vegetation in this area. - DO NOT go to the toilet on any of the ledges, take a walk down to ground level and bury it or better yet go before you get there.

Access issues inherited from The Church

None, always treat the area with the utmost respect so it stays this way.

Ethic inherited from The Church

Stay on established tracks and avoid damaging any vegetation in this area. - DO NOT go to the toilet on any of the ledges, take a walk down to ground level and bury it or better yet go before you get there. Give the holds a brush when lowering to minimise chalk build up.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The furthest L route on the main wall, past the boulder where Quaceros starts. Squueze through behind the boulder - fun crux moves over the mini roof to the arete. Start as for DGITWH. Follow this for a few bolt then straight up the wall and over the roof to DBB lower off.

FA: Matt Brooks, Feb 2024

At the far L end of the Balcony main wall is a crack behind a boulder (that Quacaeros starts off). Squeeze behing this and walk L about 10m to the base of the arete. Up the face onto the arete and up to the R end of the roofs. Through this and up the face

FA: Eric G

This means “Artefact Thief”, equipped by one person, climbed by another, ha ha. Start on the far L end of the main wall at a belay bolt off the top of the boulder on the ledge above the void. Be careful here as it’s a 60m plus drop. Use the belay bolt. Up the technical face onto the ramp. Up L a little then up the face to the top. 7RBs and DRBB.

2m R of H. Up the tricky face start onto the ledge. Straight up the sandy white streak above. 6FHs, DRBB.

FA: Zalika VR

The Balcony version of Kachoong, far better than it looks, with a rather committing climax. A fun route with a bit of face, jugs and a roof with a tricky lip move. Awesome jugs to finish. 12RBs, DRBB.

The easier variant of the Unstolen, you get the roof without the hard start. 5m R of U below the large under cling flakes. Up to these, then diagonally L and up the L edge of this wall. Up the ramp R to join U after the steep initial wall. Over the roof and up the steep jugs. 12RBs, DRBB.

3m R of VF under the steep initial wall. Up this past the crux, over the roof and up the final steep juggy wall to finish. 11RBs, DRBB.

As for U past the first few RBs and then R up the featured wall past FHs to the roof. Over this and up the headwall and final slopey corner to the top. 12 RBs, DRBB.

A bit of old school and new, watch for loose rock on this one. Start below the large hanging flake. Up to and behind this and up the steep slopey ramp to the R corner of the roof. Through this and up the steep head wall on the massive jugs.

FA: zac

Classic, Mega steep face climbing, maybe harder. Named after a funky sexual dance move and the hip thrust needed at the crux. 3m R of IB. Up the orange wall past the break and onto the beautiful orange headwall past some powerful boulder moves. 10 bolts, DRBB.

Stolen from Patto by some marauding cross border folks in mistake for an ascent of The Nosebleed section. To be honest it had gone untouched for 5 years. 2m R of Tahitian Thrust, up the initial wall and slightly diagonal R to the break below the grey streak. Up this past the cool tufa like feature to the 2nd break, slightly up L and up the feature grey/black wall. 8RBs, DRBB

FA: Marauders

Doesn’t look much but it adds up. Fun traversing that has a lot more up than is expected. The obvious large diagonal starting from 8m R of ACP. Up the diagonal staying with your hands in the higher diagonal to join IB through the roof and to the top. 14bolts, DRBB

Fantastic, pumpy face climbing. Named after the 2nd ascensionist bled all over the climb. Start as for RBM follow this to the 1st bolt above the diagonal (ACP) Up ACP/grey streak for 3 bolts to the top break before stepping R up the pumpy headwall all the way to the top. 13RBs, DRBB.

Kent said “26”, but he thinks everything is 26 lol. 1m R of RBM below the undercling flake. Up to this then pull over L onto the ramp, up the super thin wall and slightly L to join TNBS to the top. 12 bolts, DRBB.

Read the description carefully for this link up. Start as for Tamad Shud. Follow TS onto the flake to its 5th bolt (2nd glue in) Make a move up diagonally R to the arete and into TNM. Follow this up the ramp to the base of the green steek. Up the green streak past 4RBs to a DRBB loweroff.

Amazing. Consistently steep and pump climbing all the way. Superb last wall. Start as for TS, up to the flake then pull up and R onto the ramp of NM. Cross NM and up the beautiful steep wall (U bolts) above on incuts and pockets. 10 bolts, DRBB.

Classic and continually engaging all the way to the top. Follow the hangers – not ringbolts. The 1st route on the wall. 3m R of TM below a thin crack and the r bottom end of a ramp/flake. Up to the flake, L up the ramp, step L and up the steeper ramp. At the top of this step out L onto the face and direct up this to the top on some great hidden holds. Beware the top wall has spat a few off that hung around a little too long looking for a better hold. Follow the 11FHs, DRBB.

Stumping hard crux, may be harder, Ben crushed it in before the baby came. 2m R of TN. Straight up the face to the break. Boulder the hard crux here through to the next thin break. Head slight L along this to the flake/corner almost in TM. Pull the overlap and move slightly R and then directly up the wall to finish at the anchors for TM. 9FHs, DRBB.

Super thin, bring your crimp strength for this one, fantastic climbing. 3m R of TP. Up the initial wall to the break. Boulder onto and up the extremely thin grey wall, into a very fine seam and eventually joining up with TA at its 2nd last bolt where the jugs are.

A direct to Monster Among Men adding some more thin moves and a hard boulder start. Starts 2m L of The Allfather, and boulder the hard overlap into the face and join Monster Among Men at the base of the fine seam/crack

The Link but great climbing - the Direct is still a closed project. Climb The Allfather for 4 bolts then traverse the pockets low L into the flake and the 5th bolt of the project line.

FA: Matt Brooks, 28 Jan

Superb, sustained. No super hard cruxes but it doesn’t relent either. Start down in the top end of the canyon at the R end of The Balcony. Up into the flake crack, over the small overhang bulge and step L onto the face and pockets at the 4th bolt (do not higher this is the 19). Up the grey face to the base of the diagonal overlap/seam. Follow this L to the crux and then another as you step L at the 10th bolt to the jugs out L on the face. Finish up the steep jugs to the anchors. 11FHs, DRBB.

Steep short thugging. Start as for TA, up over the bulge past 4FHs and straight up the face and mantle the top to the lower off. 7 bolts, DRBB.

Fun flake on jugs. Start as for TA for 3 FHs but keep moving R on the large under cling flake (3RBs). 6 bolts, DRBB

Short and punchy. A hard boulder crux. Start about 5m R further down the grotto from BH off a boulder in the canyon with a belay bolt. Up the little flake to the under cling. A thin boulder move R and into the line of pockets will see you to the top. 5RBs, DRBB.

Fun, Long, steep and juggy – it’s easier to 2nd this to clean it. Start about 20m down the gully R of ST. Bridge up to the jugs and up the steep flake to about 2m below the top and a RB on the L. Step Land diagonally up the wall to the lower offs of ST. 11RBs, DRBB.

Start 2m R of Gully Gremlins and L of the next giant fern. Bridge of the back wall for a few moves to reach the jug where you pull onto the wall. Straight up the cool featured rock to the mantle out R at the top. 6RBs DRBB

Another 20m down the gully R of JP, Bridge of the back wall for a few moves to reach the bottom of the feature where you pull onto the wall. Straight up the cool featured rock to the mantle out R at the top. 5RBs DRBB

A great juggy steep warm up. Start 2m R of The Cripple Nipple Project. Bridge up the walls to the large boulder chockstone. Climb onto this and then follow the diagonal line up and L before a steep little section at the last bolt. Mantle up over the top to the lower off. 6RBs, DRBB TM

Another fun great juggy steep warm up. Start about 10m down and R of TWSS. Bridge up the walls past the first 2 bolts. Above these climb onto the wall and follow the line up to a steep little finish at the last bolt. 7RBs, DRBB

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Fri 2 Jun
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