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San Fran All Sport climbing 12 routes in cliff

12
YDS
5.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c

Seasonality

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Description

This wall is located in a gully 100M north of the Shady Side walls. San Fran receives sun for the majority of the day so can be a nice place to hang out in the colder months. The wall is mostly vertical dark chocolatey rock, reaches up to 25m in height, and has two tiers, with the upper tier accessed via a short scramble.

Take care on the upper tier - use the belay bolt and fixed line, taking a fall back down the access gully would be a bummer.

All routes have been equipped with DBB’s with the intention of lowering rather than rapping. Pack at least 12 draws, and a stick clip is advisable for the first bolt on some routes.

Access issues inherited from Northern Gullies

None, always treat the area with the utmost respect so it stays this way.

Approach

When reaching the end of the approach track for the Shady & Sunny Side, instead of heading up the initial slab towards the Shady Side walls look to your right and scramble up via a toppled block then head diagonally up along the base of the buttresses past the route 'Namaste' and the bottom of the Balcony gully.

After 30m there is another quick scramble up a metre high ledge, climb up then continue diagonally up for another 100m along the base of the slabs until a path through the scrub deposits you at the base of a large face running up the hill. This is the lower tier of San Fran.

Ethic inherited from The Church

Stay on established tracks and avoid damaging any vegetation in this area. - DO NOT go to the toilet on any of the ledges, take a walk down to ground level and bury it or better yet go before you get there. Give the holds a brush when lowering to minimise chalk build up.

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Routes

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1
22 ★★ Proforma Sport 23m, 7

First line on the cliff starting just right of the tree. Stick clip first ring as the start is pretty spicy. FA by the former pro ML! Probably a sandbag...

FA: @dalai

2
23 ★★★ Terraformer Sport 23m, 10

The next line to the right, all FH's. Stick clip first bolt and pull on to crimps from the block. Traverse through cool undercling feature to sustained and exciting climbing all the way to the top. Really good.

FA: T-Bone

3
20 ★ Tablets of Stone Sport 25m, 10

Line up face in the nook 8m to the right of TF. Technical first half with an exciting couple of moves through the bulge. There are some hollow sounding blocks at the halfway ledge, but a half hour session with a 1m crowbar couldn’t get them off so they shouldn’t go anywhere. Still wise to treat with caution.

FA: T-Bone

4
18 ★ Late Raider Sport 25m, 10

Ring bolted line starting below the giant Indiana Jones boulder in the top of the nook.

FA: @dalai

5
22 ★ Blood Chocolate Sport 10m, 5

Cheeky little technical line on the shady side of the gully opposite LR. A nice place to while away for a spell if the sun is too intense.

FA: Luke Batchelor

6
18 ★ Covenant / Top Deck Access Sport 20m, 7

The furthest route to the left (RB's) on the upper tier, Keep your feet on through the bulge or the grade significantly increases! Nice exposure. Be careful not to fall off the edge when at the base of the route..

Has comfortable belay stance for bringing up your second if heading over to Top Deck.

FA: T-Bone

7
21 Megabowl Sport 20m, 8

Nice face climbing (stay out of choss to the left) that unfortunately eases off after 10m

FA: Poppy

FA: T-Bone

8
21 Psychophagus Sport 22m, 8

Starts just left of the tree next to coffin shaped block. Again great thin face that eases off higher up.

FA: @dalai

FA: T-Bone

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9
21 ★★ Inuit Sport 25m, 11

Ring bolted route that starts just right of the tree. Great rock, great climbing with an exciting crux at the slabby section up high. Be careful while faffing around at the base.

FA: Sam Dowley

FA: T-Bone

10
17 ★★ Sarcophagus Sport 25m, 11

Quality link up that allows the easiest path up the cliff on some beautiful stone, Take the first four bolts of Inuit then clip the LH RB and head into the top of Psychophagus. Retro’d with permission as was the original line climbed on this section of wall, done ground up on gear.

FA: T-Bone

FA: Poppy

11
21 Psinuit Sport

The other obvious link up option - Up Psychophagus til the fifth bolt then transition right into the top of intuit.

12
19 ★ The Tooth Sport 14m, 6

Route equipped with fixed hangers sprouting a cool looking tooth feature. The extension above the anchor is an open project.

FA: T-Bone, 2023

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Fri 2 Jun
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