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description

Endurance climbing on large stalactites and a marked crux lead to crimps and sidepulls through the upper wall. Starts on the small ledge with a bolt for the belayer. Climbs up the dihedral and the through huge white tufas. Anchors are high up in the roof.

Route history

First ascent: christian ehlert
Route setter: christian ehlert

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: 22.57941, -100.41527

Grade citation

5.12b Assigned grade
5.11d [5.11c - 5.12a] -- grAId
5.12b

ethic

Most of the climbing in Guadalcázar is in limestone caves filled with stalactites. These caves have been forming for million years and have very delicate ecosystems. Please be respectful to the plants and animals that live in these caves. Stalactites can break and when they do it can be very dangerous for you or your partner. Wearing a helmet when climbing is recommended and being alert of your surrounds at all times.

When climbing on the stalactites, try to grab the stalactites at the strongest point. The closer to the wall you grab the stalactite the better. Climbing in these caves is a very different experience from any other type of rock and it is important to try to keep the stalactites intact as much as possible. Most of the routes in the cave have been cleaned well, but there is always the chance of a stalactite breaking. The rock in the cave is very solid and most of the time you wont break anything.

inherited from Guadalcázar

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 78 from 13 ratings.

Difficulty - 5.12b

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 3 ratings.

Suggested Grade

5.12b

Based on 3 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 8
Tick 5
Pink point 3
Attempt 4

Comment keywords

roof vertical rest jugs steep good great super awesome nice crux tough sustained tricky

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