Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Grade:VM

Quality alpine scramble doable in a day from Mt Cook Villiage. NZ mountaineering grade 3, approximately Ewbanks Grade 8. Competent parties may be able to solo but a rope and some trad gear should probably be carried. Start either:

• Scrambling up the scrub to the right of the buttress until gaining the ridge.
• Direct up the buttress (approx 18/19)
• following a stream on lookers left of the Buttress until it joins the route higher up.

See here for where the climb starts.

Corner with cracks jams and large holes

Easy slab, very short. Good for beginners.

r/h end of biggest block in paddock

Rock quality deteriorates as you progress

Rock quality deteriorates as you progress

Sparse Protection

Access from Anti-Crow River

Harder than it looks. Start up on the bouldery beginning and then easily up to a single ring bolt. From there straight up then veer right to 3 more bolts finishing on the ledge.

Up obvious cracked corner via hanging block on arête. Use bollards for anchors at the top.

Climbs the slab side of the arete, to the left of 'Thyme is Money'. At the 5th bolt ledge either step up to clip (feels exposed but is technically straight-forward) or else borrow a bolt from 'Thyme is Money' and extend it. Nice climbing. Presumably been top-roped for years. Bolted by Dave Ryan. June 2022

The right hand side of the slab by the beach. Clip first bolt from obvious semi-detached flake. Beware that rock quality deteriorates towards top of climb.

Bolted rout to the climbers right of the gully.

Tricky start for the grade 2m right of dog food. Try to avoid the grass in the groove.

The obvious easy face

Climb the hollow pillar - Check out the hole on your way!

Right trending crack to a shared anchor with Psycho Girls.

Access route to get to the top of the boulder.

Climb the gentle slab.

Climb the large crack, then left to bolts.

A corner left of the gentle slab marks the beginning. This corner trends left and you will have to overcome steeper ground before it eases off. Easy scramble to summit rocks.

5m right of Alpha. First belay is to the right marked by DBA.Next move through the obviosus roof crack. Route finishes up a featured face.

This route is 5m right of Epsilon climbing paralley until joining the North East Arete.

Climb easy terrain to the right of Hard Act to Follow (50m). Cruisy second pitch (15m).