Routes in South Africa for selected grade

freed at grade 21

Pitch 1: 50m 18: Gain the obvious crack on the left of the stance follow the easiest line up the crack system past a small block on the left with a manky piton. (20m) continue upwards until you reach a large ledge below the open book. Pitch 2: 60m 15: continue up the open book feature until you reach an obvious stance on the left of the crack. (2 people comfortably). Pitch 3:50m 16: climb up the crack until you reach a small overhang move diagonally left through the overhang and continue up the face trending left past a small tree on the left arête to a stance below a large yellowwood . Pitch 4: 50m 18: traverse right from the good stance back onto the face, trend diagonally right until you gain the right arête, bomb up the committing but well protected face until you reach the obvious stance before the easy scramble out.

The objective of this route is a lightning bolt shaped crack on a block at the top of the crag, where the gorge makes a bend. Start behind a huge boulder, true left, at the narrowest point of the gorge.' Climb up in the corner to a mantle move through an overhanging crack. Aim straight for the block, easy, and top out via the lightning crack.

Climb on the stream facing side of the block, start 2m to the left of the corner shared by slickenside, pull on good holds through overhanging bulges.

Climb on the face adjacent to the vegetated dihedral, start close to the corner

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

5 meters to the right of Willows Way, a small crack line leads into a bulge. Climb the crack and pull through the bulge on small but good holds. Then, over easy ground to the anchors.

This climb starts on the far left of the Goat Face about 50m on the other side of the fence. (Squeeze through fence next to the rock face). Climb up just to the right of a vegetated recess.

Climb the arête on the left of the dome. The route starts in the gully after a short scramble. Note: The first 2 and the last 2 pitches can be combined.

This route ascends the right most chimney crack on the main wall as the face tends to crumble away to the gully. Descend by rapping off the tree at the top or walk around to the gully at the back.

This climb starts up the crack to the right of a deep corner/crack, about 10m right of Rhamses Ramrod.

Leftmost route on the west side of Sarcophagus about 50m left of the right hand arête. Go up the slab rightwards. Share chains with Dancing with Anubis

Go up the slab leftwards. Share chains with Archimedes Screw

Route starts at the granite slab, then up the crack, out right and up to the anchors. Use the crack and stay left for 15. Use the face right of the crack for 18. (Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)

Right of the crack, awkwardly through the corridor and step over to a thin face before easy finish. Probably around grade 16/17.

5m left of MBT, start at flake under the tree. Consistent on thin flakes until the bulge.

Starts on the left side of the hut at the open book in the corner. There are 2 seperate anchors is on top of the bolder. Mainly used for youth abseil and top rope.

The route generally follows the shallow recess about 30m to the left of the prominent chimney of Afternoon Ascension. At the base is a steep corner that peters out before reaching the shallow recess above. About 15m to the right is another corner extending from the left of a small overhang about 3m up to a larger overhang about 12m up. Start below this corner.

1. 26m (F3 A1) Mantleshelf up to face to a small ledge below the corner, then climb the corner to the upper overhang via mixed aid and free climbing. Move to the left under the overhang to a ledge and then traverse to the left around a bulge to a ledge at the base of a recess.

2. 40m (G1) Climb 6m diagonally to the left up a face, then traverse to the right into a corner behind a huge flake. Climb 7m to a ledge at the top of the flake, then traverse to the left to the arete. Move up a thin face to a small sloping ledge, then move to the left around the arete and into a corner. Climb the corner for about 18m to a small ledge at the top of a pinnacle.

3. 30m (F3) Continue 12m up to corner to a small ledge on the left-hand face. Continue up the face to another ledge, then traverse to the left until the large ledge can be easily gained.

4. 25m (F2) Climb the continuation of the recess to a large ledge.

5. 32m (G1 A1) From the left-hand end of the large ledge, descend to a small ledge and traverse to the left to the base of a bulging crack. Climb the crack, using two nuts for aid in the lower portion, to easier rock above the overhang. Continue to top.

The route goes up the prominent crack-line 50m to the right of Afternoon Ascension on the Eastern Buttress above the camp site.

Scramble up to a ledge and tree belay at the foot of the crack.

1. 36m (G1) Climb the crack (difficult to start) and then continue diagonally up to the left for 13m on broken rock before moving diagonally back to the right into the crack about 5m below a small tree. Climb the crack with difficulty past two small trees, to a stance on a small ledge with a good tree belay.

2. 13m (F2) Traverse to the right around the corner for 7m to a large ledge, and then climb up steeply to another large ledge with a small tree belay.

3. 11m (F2) Climb diagonally back up to the left to a stance in the main crack (Nut belay).

4. 36m (G1) Climb steeply up the crack for 8m before traversing to the right with difficulty, using a small finger-rail, to a foothold around the corner. Mantleshelf with difficulty onto a small ledge and continue up via two further hard moves to a ledge with a bong belay 3m below a prominent overhang in the main crack.

5. 30m (F3) Climb up to the overhang and continue strenuously past it on the left. Continue up the steep crack to a small ledge with nut belays about 5m below a large section of red rock.

6. 48m (F2) Descend 1m from the stance and traverse delicately to the left for 7m into a corner. Traverse further to the left along a grassy ledge and then climb up, bearing slightly left to a grassy stance with a tree belay.

7. 10m (D) Scramble to top.

The lower section follow the largest area of grey rock on the South East side of the mountain. Start 150 steps to the left of the fence, which runs straight up to the rock face. Start at tha large tree growing 3m away from the rock face.

1. 18m (E2) Climb up to stance above tree inside cave-like recess.

2. 22m (D) Step up to small ledge on right and traverse right out of recess. Climb up to ledge on right. Traverse 3m right into crack and up to stance

3. 30m (E2) Move up boulder on right. Traverse round corner and up crack past small overhang to ledge with blocks.

4. 40m (E3+) Climb corner above to grass ledge. Follow grass bands via exposed crack with tree on top, and to next tree which is below major rockband.

5. Scramble 5m up to grass ledge and walk left along ledge to a chimney and recess.

6. 15m (E2) Climb up to overhang and left to stance.

7. 24m (E3) After a long pullup, follow easy rock slightly left to a bush.

8. 18m (D) Climb diagonally left to rockband and climb out right to main grass band, which divides the upper and lower sections of Hanglip.

9. 30m (F2) The upper section starts just to the right of the highest point of the grass band, where it begins to dip steeply downwards to the right. Start well to the right, going up over a series of long ledges, then move left of a pile of small blocks to an overhang. Traverse left just under the small overhang and up to a block on whicha stance can be made.

10. 15m (F2) Traverse left along ledge, crossing an open gap by climbing down 2m in an exposed position, or alternatively climbing up and jumping down from a sleng point (E).

11. 33m (F2) From the belay climb up to ledge and traverse right until it is possible to break through rockband above (very tricky on loose rock). Continue right along rock band and up to grassy ledge and stance.

12. 16m (F1+) From the top of a block mantleshelf onto ledge and climb out to the right.

13. 18m (F2) Start about 13m to the left of a square corner by climbing open book to overhang. Traverse right to cubby-hole.

14. 4m (G2) Ascend bottomless recess to another cubby-hole. Originally done on aid (F2 A1).

15. 20m (E3) Traverse to the right and then climb up to an open book recess. This recess is climbed to a stance on a grass ledge.

16. 20m (E3) Climb a crack and work out to the left by climbing up to an overhang. Complete the route by climbing out to the right.

FA: R. Barry, C. Purdham (1937-12-25)

Variation: Starting from the top of pitch 8 to near the bottom of pitch 12, this section can be climbed in two direct pitches.

Decent: If the climb is completed in daylight, a fairly quick descent, involving a short abseil, can be made in the vicinity of the first saddle behind the main peak. As this route is not easy to find in darkness, late parties are advised to contour around on the rough, bushy slopes of the next 'hump' to a more obvious route where a steep grassy gully breaks the rock faces.

To decent to Hanglip North, the descent is as follows: From the top beacon of Hanglip, keeping basically right, descend to a neck between a small koppie and Hanglip. The koppie overlooks the valley of Hanglip North. DO NOT go down the gully, but descend the slope diagonally left of the gully.

Start in a recessed chimney 50m to the left of the fence (boundry).

1. 25m (E2) Traverse out of chimney to the left and ascend diagonally over broken rock to stance at a tree.

2. 40m (F2) Continue up steep rock directly above belay then traverse diagonally left, move up an open book (awkward) and continue left to a stance.

3. 20m (D) Climb up diagonally left then up right to the bottom of a right-angled recess.

4. 30m (F1) Climb the recess to a little tree, then traverse left along a ledge under overhangs to big blocks. Continue up diagonally right, over the overhangs into a recess and traverse delicately right to reach stance on a big block.

5. 30m (E2) Scramble up at first then diagonally left into a recess. Traverse left and climb diagonally right and up to the top of the first rockband.

6. 30m (F2) On the second rockband start about 25m to the right of the normal route. Climb a face until a ledge is reached, which is at the same level as the top of a rock pillar on the right. Traverse right moving over the pillar to a stance.

7. 30m (F3 A2) Traverse right 5m into a recess. Climb the recess and traverse slightly to the right and then back into upper recess. Climb overhang (aid) to a small ledge, ascend the crack on the wall above (aid) and move right to small recess and ledge (awkard and exposed move). Climb up to large ledge then traverse left to a stance with a big block.

8. 25m (F3) Traverse diagonally right for 4m. Pull-up a short step and climb a corner. Traverse left along a ledge to below a smooth open book. Climb the open book to a cubbyhole. The stance is shared with top pitch 12 of Hanglip Frontal. (This pitch is possible G1 for short climbers)

9. 20m (G1 A1) Traverse left 3m and aid up 2 points to a ledge (or move over normal overgang of pitch 12 of Hanglip Frontol Route thereby eliminating the aid). Move right into a corner, ascend the flared crack with difficulty and move out right at the top. Scramble up 3m then climb up a slab moving delicately over a bulge to beneath a little overhang. Layback out to the right and climb up to a ledge. (Stance shared with pitch 14 of Hanglip Frontal Route)

10. 30m (F1) From an old ring piton traverse right slightly for 2m and climb the face to a ledge, ascend the crack above and cotinue diagonally right to the top.

1. 30m (F2) Climb recess to tree belay.

2. 15m (F3) Climb wide crack to ledge and tree belay.

3. 30m (F2) Climb recess above to cave-like cubby-hole.

4. 25m (G1) Climb up for 3m and traverse left to ledge. Ascend to right hand ledge (mantleshelf) to base of open book. Jam and layback up crack to overhang. Traverse out left to block and chock belay. Scramble up to ledge (10m).

5. 35m (F3) Start at right hand corner. Climb crack to grass and traverse left for 15m into a recess. Ascend recess to ledge and chock belay.

6. 25m (F2 A1) Ascend corner for 2m and traverse left for 8m. Ascend steep face using one sling aid.

7. 25m (E3) Walk left to end of ledge and climb recess to top.

The climb is situated on the second buttress to the right of Hanglip. The route goes through the lower face then up a recess and face to the left of the red faces of the second buttress. Start 5m to the right of a tree below some overhangs.

1. 18m (F3) Pull up and mantleshelf onto a ledge then move left about 1m into a recess with a crack. With a handjam move up then traverse left and up to a stance at a tree.

2. 18m (F3) Traverse left 4m and climb onto a ledge. Traverse back right to below a recess. Climb up delicately to a small stance at a tree.

3. 30m (G1) Move up the crack above and fist-jam out to the right up the crack. Climb delicately right and up to a ledge. Continue right then up a gully to a stance and tree. Scramble left along a ledge to where the ledge narrows.

4. 40m (F2) Climb up a buttress on the left and make one pull-up move. Continue up then right to a big boulder at the start of a ramp.

5. 40m (F1) Climb the ramp (20m) then move left above into a recess. Climb the recess then move out right and up to a stance with tree.

6. 45m (F1) Move left then up the recess into a cave. Straddle up and move out right at the top. Continue up to a tree. Climb left onto a face and stance.

7. 40m (F1) Climb up diagonally right then pull up and traverse right to a balancing boulder. Climb onto the top and ascend a face diagonally right to a recess. Climb out left to a stance.

8. 45m (E2) Continue to the top.

Decent: Walk down the gully on the left.

1. 40m (F3) Scramble to big grassy ledge. Walk left to tree and climb corner t big ledge. Ascend open book to stance below overhang.

2. 20m (F2+) Traverse left to corner and ascend corner to ledge and tree belay

3. 15m (F2 A1) Climb smooth recess to tree (A1) and scramble into deep chimney

4. 20m (G1 A1) Traverse out to lip of overhang, using one sling aid to gain height, and pull up into deep recess. Climb recess to big ledge.

5. 30m (F2+) Climb open book to deep recess. Follow recess to ledge.

6. 40m (F3) Climb chimney. Traverse left and ascend corner in crack to ledge. Ascend recess to top.

The climb follows the distinctive line of the crack system. A huge green face borders its left hand lower side.

1. 35m (F2) Climb the slopes, which lead to the start of the crack. Stance below tree.

2. 30m (G1) Climb up to tree. Follow crack with difficulty. Belay in cubbyhole.

3. 30m (G1) Climb open book for 15m to small overhang. Move delicately out under overhang onto continuation of open book. Ascend to cubbyhole, move further up on block into chimney.

4. 30m (G1) Continue up chimney and move out to the right onto small ledge. Climb 5m to bulging overhang. Straddle and pull up to small platform above.

5. 30m (F2) Continue up to overhangs and climb out diagonally left to grass ledge.

6. 40m (F2) Climb through upper rockband and scramble to top.

Start about 30m - 50m right of Apple Jam, where the ledge peters out and there is a crack in the face above.

1. 25m (F3) Climb the crack to a stance.

2. 30m (F3) Continue up (lack of runners) to a traverse line to the left. Traverse out at this level and round the corner to stance.

3. 25m (F3) Climb the crack above, through a roof to a stance.

4. 30m (G1) Continue through roofs to a stance.

5. 15m (F2) Continue to top.

The route runs up the centre of the third rock band north of Hanglip proper. It is easily distinguished by the following descriptions: A corner with a large open book will be observed approximately 100m up. In the middle of the open book, a strip of white rock is noticeable. To the left of the route there is a large grassy ramp, ending short of a free-standing rock tower.

1. 30m (F2) From the beacon, ascend the crack which narrows in the centre. The overhang at the top is avoided by negotiating the left-hand wall.

2. 35m (F2+) AScend broken wall to large shelf. Climb the corner on the left with stance on second shelf.

3. 35m (G1) Traverse 1-2m to the right and ascend the face until directly under the overhang. Traverse right to ledge below large open book.

4. 18m (G1) Use aid to get off the ground, and climb the following 5m free. Two further aid moves are required to attain a small fig tree. A small stance will be reached 6m higher.

5. 15m (G1) Climb to the top of the open book. Aid was used to negotiate the bulge and to move off the stance.

6. 27m (F1) Traverse to the right and climb up a short crack - then traverse 16m to the right onto a grassy band.

7. 25m (F2) Climb the receding ramp in the corner. The crux is below a tree that grows out of the corner approximately hald way up.

8. 40m (E2) Climb the right hand crack to the summit.

After being so impressed with the corner on which Tarantula is situated we decided that the Tarantula should have a mate, even though it was of a different species. Tarantula and Black Widdow make exiting Hanglip climbing.

1. 30m (F2+) Climb the second crack to the right of Tarantula i.e. the major corner below the overhang above. Stance on top of a pillar.

2. 25m (F2 A2) Climb up corner to large ledge, follow crack and overhang (aid) to small stance directly above.

3. 20m (G1) Climb crack to a tiny one-man stance.

4. 20m (F3 A1) Continue up crack and overhang (A1). Then traverse left and up to large stance common with Tarantula.

5. 10m (F2) Traverse to the right and around to the next crack.

6. 35m (F3) Climb up crack to overhang, traverse left and up to a small cubby hole.

7. 30m (G1) Move out to the right and up a crack to a largish ledge and continue up crack immediately above last stance, to a big vegetated ledge.

8. 40m (F3+) Climb up slightly overhanging crack (crux) behind stance, continue up crack to a ledge. Go left a few meters and continue up the chimney to the top.

The climb is situated at the right hand side of the gully about 80m left of Octopus. Obvious crack line which disappears about two thirds of the way up the face.

1. 18m (F3) Climb left side of crack to tree and traverse right for 3m. Climb up 1m underneath roof and continue traversing into chimney.

2. 40m (F3) Ascend chimney for 15m. Traverse left 3m on small holds. Climb up 20m to large ledge.

3. 40m (G1 A0) Start behind huge block in left-hand corner. Climb up for 5m and walk back to crack (right). Climb past small tree, follow left ramp and traverse out on top to cubby hole. Move out of cubby hole, using running belay as a handhold. Climb up to left corner of overhang, fix running belay, climb down 1m and traverse right for 8m. Ascend to large ledge above. The start of the traverse is the crux and was climbed with rope tension.

4. 40m (F2) Walk left for 15m. Climb up and diagonally left for 8m (F2). Grade-E climbing completes the route.

Start 10m left of Woody Wood³.

1. 35m (G1 A1) Climb the groove until the crack fizzles out. Tension left of a blade to another crack and up to stance.

2. 40m (G1 A2) Climb through the first two roofs free and then into a groove. Aid up and through (6 points) and to a ledge on the right. Continue up to a ledge to belay.

3. 40m (G2) Traverse left back into crack and up to small stance in left-hand crack.

4. 40m (G2) Move up for 5m then back into right-hand crack. Continue up this to stance below and left of a tree.

5. 30m (G2 A2) Move right and up to tree. Continue up the crack free through a horrendous crumbling roof to below the final overhang. Aid through (2 points) and belay on the right.

6. 30m (F2) Traverse right about 10m then up and back left and up a crack to scrambling ground.

Note: Hard and serious with a lot of poor rock but good runners. Recommended for suicidal maniacs. Take four pegs [in 1980, what should we take today?].

The climb is situated on the fourth rock-fold (counting a smaller one) west of the Hanglip peak, and goes up the prominent crack to the right of Octopus, i.e. third crack from the left. Scramble up to the sloping grass ledge, then up to a crack on the right (F1). Traverse to the left into another crack. Ascend 5m to a tree and continue up to a third tree.

1. 25m (F1) Climb crack and move out by a rock-flake. Continue up and make a stance on a large tree.

2. 25m (F2+) Move up, then chimney out to overcome a small overhang. Move up crack until it is possible to chimney out underneath a chockstone. Climb up on the left to a tree belay.

3. 20m (G1) Move up for 2m to gain a crack on the right for the first aid move. Move over to the left wall (bong) and then through overhang (A2). Free climbing to second chockstone where a stance is made in a deep cubby-hole. (Opened on Aid)

4. 30m (F1+) Continue up crack until an obvious barring overhang is reached. Climb out to the left and up 4m to a stance.

5. 35m (F2) Climb diagonally up left following a crack line until a ledge with a 90° corner is reached. Climb the shallow groove 2m to the right of the corner and upwards to below some overhangs. After having moved up a small block, mantelshelf onto an overhanging but sharp edged ledge to the left.

6. 25m (F1) From the large block on the left of the ledge, climb up slightly to the left then right into a rounded crack. Climb this and then up to the top.

Descend down the left-hand gully (facing the rock).

Climb taking a line straight up the first tier by way of a distinct chimney.

1. 5m (E1) Climb up to a ledge with a tree and continue for 3m up a chimney.

2. 42m (F3) Climb the chimney to a good ledge.

3. 30m (F2) Traverse slightly to the right and up into the continuing crack system for 20m. Traverse left to a good ledge. Climb up a short wall and continue traversing to a tree belay.

4. 42m (G1 A1) Walk around to the left to the first open book. The line takes the crack in the corner of this open book. (Protection is poor at times.) The crux is halfway up the open book. Two etrier moves are made at the top section of the crack (one peg in place). Continue up to overhangs then traverse right from under the overhangs to a shallow carck. Below a crack filled with roots from a wild fig tree, climb straight up to a good ledge.

5. 40m (F1) Traverse diagonally right over a block up onto a wall. Traverse left and then straight up to a series of ledges. Bearing right, continue until rope drag forces one to make a stance.

6. 40m (E1) Zigzag up a number of grassy ledges to the base of a small chimney.

7. 20m (E2) Ascend the chimney then traverse left to tree belay.

Shares pitches 1 and 2 with Exposure: On the same buttress as Prelude there are two prominent cracks in the form of a V. Start just to the right of the left arm of a smaller inverted V cone, which is just to the left of the junction of the large V cracks.

1. 27m (E1) Ascend an obvious route, about 3m to the right of the recess, for 13m. Move to the left, and then climb up to the next big tree.

2. 13m (F1) Climb diagonally up to the right from the right-hand side of the stance then climb to a wide grass band. Walk to the right to the front of the right-hand crack and scramble up to a large tree.

3. 25m (F3) Climb up the main crack to a ledge.

4. 7m (G1) Ascend the overhanging crack to a large block belay. If this pitch is done with the aid of a shoulder it is F3.

5. 23m (F2) Climb 13m in the crack to a ledge. Here there are three alternatives:

   • (F1) Move to the left across and up to a ledge for 2m. Climb the overhang for10m to a ledge. Block belay in corner.
   • (G1) Climb the overhanging crack, on rotten rock, to a belay.
   • (F3) Move up to a narrow horizontal crack. Dassie-traverse to the nose. Climb up the nose to a belay.

6. 25m (F3 A0) Climb up the crack for 5m, then using a shoulder for aid to overcome the bulge, continue to a large block 13m higher. Move diagonally to the left for 7m to a large ledge where there is a good belay.

7. 27m (E2) Continue up to the left for 17m on easier ground, then climb the recess for 10m to a ledge using a piton belay.

8. 17m (E1) Move down a few metres and then traverse to the left. Continue up 13m to the left to a large block.

9. 13m (E1) Move up a few meters, traverse to the left for 7m, and the climb straight up for 5m to a ledge where there is a block belay.

10. 37m (F1) Several alternatives become possible, zigzagging up ledges to a ledge directly above the previous stance where there is a block belay (poor protection).

11. Move into the corner and climb grade-D rock for two rope lengths to the top.

Another short route, on the west face of the boulder just behind (east) of The Missing Link boulder.

1. 10m 18 Climb crack about 2m right of arête until it dies at 4m. Make a move up and right (crux), and continue up on good grips to the top.

Notes:

1. A camalot #3 and a good small cam protect the crux. The easier climbing above is unprotected.

Variation: Instead of moving right at the crux, step left to the arête and climb this until able to move easily back onto the face. This variation is contrived.

Descent: Scramble down the back of the boulder.

When standing at the entrance of the VALLEY. Look toward the TIME BOMB. There is a rock island about 200m away between you and the TIME BOMB. This line is on an egg shaped boulder on the back side of the rock island, its takes a cool rightwards tending crack from bottom to top, with some mantle mischief up top.

1. 10m 18 Start directly underneath the main boulder, next to the square block on its left end. Make some fun moves up to the crack and climb this rightwards then up to the top.

Descent: Walk off the back of the bolder.

Directly opposite from GRAND ILLUSION, this line takes an obvious leftwards tending bulge and crack.

1. 10m 17 Boulder up to the small ledge where the crack begins, follow the crack and ramp leftwards to where they widen into a cubby (the crack ends about 1m left of here), reach up over the bulge directly above to jugs and make your way to the top.

Descent: Walk off the back of the bolder towards SOUNDTRACK.

A splitter left-facing corner crack south of AVALON. From the AVALON valley, scramble up on the true left, past SOUNDTRACK and STORMCHASER. The corner is obvious to the south.

1. 15m 17 Climb the corner.

Descent: An adventurous scramble east then down to the north.

A large gully bisects the northern face of the Donjon. About 50m west of the base of the gully is a long, low roof (20m wide and 2m deep at chest height). The climb starts at the western side of this roof where it runs into a rise in the ground, in the first obvious corner. Although the last pitches are of easy grade, they are particularly enjoyable.

1. 35m 14 Up crack in corner 5m, left and up over awkward bulge. Ascend open book above, traversing left at the top of the open book. Climb the second open book with pink and white streaks, again traversing left at top onto ledge.

2. 20m 17 Climb third open book at right hand side of ledge and traverse left at top under roof. Proceed up nose (crux) onto flake and traverse left past pigeon nests under roof to grassy stance.

3. 40m 12 Follow crack on lichen covered rock on good holds.

4. 40m 12 Continue up the crack.

5. 40m 11 Continue up the crack to ledge.

6. 30m 11 Climb to a large ledge with trees, at base of overhanging buttress.

7. Walk left about 30m into the large gully and abseil.

The route heads up the centre of the face, 120m to the left of GREAT GULLY.

1. 33m 18 Up smooth, narrow chimney/crack in a left facing corner formed by a buttress and the main face. Alternatively, start about 15m to the right, in a right facing corner on the other side of the buttress.

2. 50m 7 Ascend from top of crack to large grass ledge. Traverse right 66m and scramble up to a higher ledge at the base of a left trending ramp system.

3. 50m 7 Ascend diagonally leftwards to the highest yellowwood trees.

4. 30m 16 Walk leftwards along ledge. Either take the first crack which starts easily and ends with a difficult move, or take the second crack which has an awkward start past a small bush, but an easier exit via twin flakes. Continue diagonally leftwards to a tree belay under a steep face.

5. 20m 15 Traverse left, and then climb up 2m to the rail leading round bulge. Use the rail as an undercling and move left for a few meters until able to drop down onto a block (exposed). Move left into a gully.

6. 25m 12 Climb gully to stance at top of pinnacle.

7. 60m 15 An awkward start gains the recess leading upwards from the right hand end of the gully. Climb this, trending leftwards to top out at the start of the maze.

Variation to pitches 1 and 2: Starts in the recess just to the left of a prominent buttress about 90m to the right of the original LEFT FACE chimney. This recess is topped by a large overhang about 50m above the ground.

1. 40m 12 Climb recess for about 30m and traverse right along a small ledge to a tree.

2. 30m 13 Move up 3m from stance and traverse right about 10m around the corner. Move up behind block and then onto it and continue up the face to a large stance.

3. Scramble for about 50m to the large grass ledge and continue with the rest of the original route

Start about 250m right of MOONLIGHT a short distance past a large pile of boulders. A series of corners and ledges slant diagonally up rightward for about 30m. A prominent series of overhangs leads diagonally up leftwards about 33m up.

1. 30m 12 Start up short steep recess then diagonally up right to ledge. Step right and climb up just right of overhanging recess to next ledge. Climb up, via another ledge then a series of vertical cracks to small stance.

2. 30m 14 Traverse left 8m via prominent detached block (appears safe) to recess right of pillar. Climb 3m up thin recess then traverse delicately left around pillar into another recess. Move up left side of recess (loose blocks at start) to just below overhang. Traverse 3m left then up, passing overhang on left to ledge.

3. 23m 16 Climb up 3m and traverse left 7m into base of open recess. Climb up slightly right, to short overhanging section. Climb this to small ledge on right.

4. 30m 14 Traverse left, moving up in a few places and finish traverse along narrow, grass covered ledge. From left of ledge, climb up steep face on slightly unsound rock, move slightly left, into easier angled recess slanting up rightwards and follow this to large ledge.

5. 43m 14 Step up and traverse 8m right to below bulging face. Surmount bulge at easiest point then traverse towards small tree in vegetated recess. Avoiding tree on the left, traverse across recess and climb right hand face which steepens near the top, to stance in easier angled recess above.

6. 17m 7 Climb diagonally right to large grassy ledge. Walk about 85m rightwards to where ledge ends at overhanging vegetated recess.

7. 25m 14 Traverse right across recess and climb up 3m to grassy ledge. Traverse back left into vegetated recess above overhang and climb it to stance on the left.

8. 25m 16 Climb diagonally up left for 12m then straight up to ledge below steep face. From left end of ledge climb up thin face to just below a turf ledge. Step right and continue diagonally up right to ledge.

9. 25m 16 Climb face above, partly via layback crack, to base of overhanging corner and jamming crack (hard). Ascend this and continue to large stance.

10. 14m 7 Traverse right to large tree in lush recess (Jungle Ledge - superb bivvy). About 35m above ledge are two chimneys. The route goes up right hand one.

11. 25m 14 Climb recess behind tree starting left and traversing to the right side 4m up. Continue up to overhang at top of recess and move out delicately around corner into groove in right hand face. Climb up 5m to ledge on right.

12. 30m 16 Climb face diagonally above for 7m. Trend left towards ledge below prominent right hand overhanging chimney. Climb to chimney with difficulty and climb it more easily to ledge below red, recessed face (bivy site).

13. 25m 17 About 8m up face is small tree with a crack to its left. Climb face, starting on the right then traversing left into crack just below tree. Aid on a nut to pass tree on left and continue as far as possible up crack system to awkward resting place in small open book. Aid on piton to the left to cross an undercut face and gain base of prominent chimney. Climb up 8m to ledge.

14. 25m 18 Climb the chimney and continuation cracks to ledge.

15. 25m 16 Climb continuation chimney above.

16. 25m 10 Continue up until able to scramble.

17. 66m 5 With bits of 10, scramble via short unpleasant chimney to summit.

LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. Start from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake (as for HEY JUDE).

1. 45m 16 Start up the flake and move right at 5m. Climb the slabs trending left to a flake/crack. Climb this then up and right on good holds to a ledge.

2. 38m 17 Climb up from the right hand edge of the ledge for 8m (through small roof). Straight up another 30m to stance directly above the previous stance on a good ledge.

3. 38m 15 Climb up on good but improbable looking rock. Trend right and then stance at the back of the Grassy Ledge. (blocks). Walk to the right hand end of the Grassy Ledge. Down climb to a stance on the far right of the ledge, at the base of chossy-looking, east-facing corner.

4. 35m 18 (17A0) Climb corner, stepping right at the top. Pull through roof on the left. Move right a few metres to a break. Follow this for 25m to a stance near some blocks (17A0 if you rest on a nut below the roof).

5. 50m 15 2m right is a left facing corner capped by a half metre roof. Climb this and continue up the next right facing corner to a ledge. Walk left until the ledge narrows, then blast straight up the wall above finishing up a left leaning corner crack to a large ledge. Climb up the wall to a small pillar. Move delicately right and then head for the yellowwood tree at the big platform up and right.

6. 15m 15 Head for the next yellowwood tree up and left. Follow the recess above to large ledges. The Bivi Cave lies to the right.

7. 45m 17 Move through the yellowwood and step off it on to the thin face. Climb the face diagonally left to the arête, follow this to the corner. Up this to step left at the big roof. Wind through on monster jugs to huge ledge.

8. 38m 18 From the upper ledge attack the jug forest above. Move right on to thinner stuff a little higher and climb to ledge.

9. 25m 16 Start from right hand side of large boulder. Climb the break, moving out left and exit into jungle.

10. 25m 15 LAST MOON takes the obvious major chimney behind the jungle. Climb the jug infested face just right of the chimney. Notes:

This RD is a stand alone version of the easiest pleasant route up the north wall. It climbs parts of HEY JUDE (pitch 1), EIGHT MILES HIGH (pitches 2 and 3), MOONRAKER (pitch 4 and some of pitch 5), LAST MOON (pitches 6 and 7) and ROAD WARRIOR (pitches 8 and 9).

Climb the centre of the slab immediately behind the tower, on the head-wall. Long, sustained route.

Follow the bolts to the left of an overhanging bulge directly below the obvious pinnacle on the right side of the crag (facing the crag). Follow the open book to a large ledge. Beware a large loose overhanging block to the right, above the second bolt! Continue up the open book through an obvious slot to the rings. Make sure to extend the anchors when top-roping to avoid rope drag. The anchors can be reached by scrambling up the gulley behind the pinnacle - skirt the top of the pinnacle from this gulley, scrambling leftwards until reaching the rings.

This route starts on Squeaky Staircase, moving right after clipping the third bolt and then comp[leting the rest of Hidey-Holds.

Climb the short line of bolts to the left of Incy Wincy Spider, keeping to the left wall of the latter's open book until the line pushes you into a large crack on the right.

Directly right of INCY WINCY SPIDER, start up the rightward tending break to gain a small ledge. Rail hard right crossing WATERSPOUT to the arête and then straight up

This line follows the prominent dark continuous crack halfway between Incy Wincy Spider and the arete. Step off the blocks into the crack that runs up the left hand side of a bright patch of orange lichen. Pass a rail and move slightly left at the level of the grey split bulge to clip the chains above.

Follow the arête to the right of the face containing Waterspout. The route starts steeply, but eases off considerably after the second bolt.

On the rock face to your left as you pass through the mouth of Bramblegate Gulley, a north west facing dark orange open book to the right of a tall tree. Climb the dihedral crack starting on a ledge staying in the corner, take the most direct line, find ring anchors on a comfortable ledge just below the perched boulder atop the pillar.

5m right of Real Regal Eagle head up a broken crack system on a series of fins. An exciting lead.

Climb the arete on the eastern side of entrance to the gully (true left). The route tends to the right, following the arete. There is a fair amount of rope drag - probably best to belay from the top. Anchors are hangers, placed horizontally on the top of the crag - take along slings to extend these over the edge. Either walk off to the north or abseil from Silence of the Lambchops's rings.

Starts to the right of Puffin. Belay from tree at bottom.

Start 5m right of 'Restoration'- small tree at start.

1. [17] 20m

   A2 Climb the steep broken rock above a small tree to below small recessed corner with a sloping overhang. Climb out diagonally left (A2). Continue up the face and exit onto a ledge.

2. [13] 18m

   Continue up a crack in a face above to easier ground.

Start midway between 'Drei Stein Mandrel' and 'Sunny Ridge'.

1. 25m 11 Climb up to small tree on easy sloping rock keeping in a crack. Traverse diagonally right underneath a huge roof. Belay in corner.

2. 25m 17, A1 Traverse left onto exposed nose on good foot- and hand-holds. Climb straight up to reach the left-hand side of the roof described above. Place piton in horizontal crack. Climb up 2m and traverse 2m diagonally right up face (artificial) into recess. Climb easily straight up for 15m to belay.

3. 25m 8 Scramble to the top.

Start up the face immediately to the right of the prominent cleft of 'Other Kingdom'.

1. 18m 17 Climb up easy rock for 5m to where the face steepens. Move diagonally up leftward 3m, and then ascend steep face above (common with 'Other Kingdom') to a small ledge.

2. 40m 10 Climb 8m up sloping wall to large ledge, then traverse 6m up to right of gully past aloes. Climb 3m up slightly overhanging chimney to right of aloes, and traverse 9m round to left. Scramble up 6m to grassy ledge and walk 8m to small tree belay on right.

3. 28m 9 Scramble 15m up steep grassy gully and ascend 13m steep slab to summit.

Start directly below the second groove to the right of the slanting corner. (Refer to description for 'Goon Show')

1. 17m 17 Move up 3m then diagonally right into a shallow groove in the right wall. Ascend this, past a bulge then traverse right to a large block stance and peg belay. (As for Pitch 2 stance on 'Goon Show')

2. 44m 13 Ascend up left wards to where the slab steepens (narrow ledge at 15m) then across right onto the blunt arete (directly above the stance). Continue directly up and follow a rock rib above to chock belay below a small overhang. Scramble off rightwards.

Note: Protection is poor.

Start 40m down from the right-hand extremity of the 'Commando Neck' West Buttress, 6m left of a tree at the lowest point of the buttress.

1. 19m 17 Climb the wall into the open book above, and at the top move right out of the open book to a stance.

2. 8m 13 Move right traversing under overhangs along a handrail to a stance.

3. 29m 11 Climb the crack behind the stance, move out right at an overhang and continue straight up to a tree. Belay near the top.

The climb is situated 3m right of 'Jack O' Spades'.

1. 25m 17 Climb the crack system to a small tree. Continue up above the tree. Just left is a small block which appears to be stuck on the face above together with a loose jutting plate of rock (which has a strange metallic sound). Move up and try standing on the block which appears to be stuck on. Move slightly left and up 1 ½ m and traverse right across a very exposed face to an edge. Cross over a shallow recess to a ledge.

2. 40m 13 Move slightly right from the belay. Climb up and diagonally left up a face to the left of a recess with aloes and grass. Move up virtually in a straight line following the clear rock, keeping right of a tree, to the top of the krantz. Belay.

The climb takes the line of a great fault which splits the krantz virtually from top to bottom.

1. 20m 15 From the base of the fault climb up into a short chimney and straddle past the crux of this pitch to a cubby hole. Move out right, across and under a tree and up to a ledge. Belay. (This pitch is a 'technical' 15.)

2. 25m 17 Climb up an awkward corner and continue up, straddling the crack. A neat move partially using the left wall and the edge of the crack can be made to gain a small ledge below a shallow chimney. Bridge this until able to pull over left to a wall. Climb up using good holds to the top of a block. Belay

3. 15m 10 Continue up a shallow V-shaped recess above (instead of moving left into a bushy gully) to easy rock.

Note: A high quality climb on excellent rock.

Situated 4m right of 'Tower Of Pisa'.

1. 25m 17 Start in an obvious corner, move slightly left and back right from a big block (common to 'Tower Of Pisa') into the corner. Climb the left face. Step over right to a ledge below a small tree. Climb up and step left into a shallow corner with two cracks running up on the left face. Straddle up the corner to a narrow ledge approximately 10cm wide which runs left below a blackish face. Traverse left at this level for 4m to the edge.

2. 18m 9 Move around left onto a broken face and straight up keeping on the arete to the top.

The climb starts 4 – 5m left of the direct start to 'Tower Of Pisa'.

1. 20m 17 Climb a shallow recess up to an overhang. Move right onto a wall below a small, well defined recess with a crack. Continue up until it is possible to move right onto a wall (missing out a bunch of aloes above in the name of conservation). Climb the wall and continue moving slightly left to a ledge.

2. 23m 17 Continue up the recess above the stance, which in turn forms an open book, topped by an overhang. Climb until it is possible to traverse left to a rib. As a guide, there is a large spike of rock stuck to the crease of the open book. Traverse well below this to the rib. Continue up to a broken wall and climb to a shelf below a small brown overhang. (Protection very good. The next moves are very awkward and possibly 19 grade for short people.) Climb up and hand-traverse over right to a foothold on the corner. Continue up to a large ledge with a tree.

3. 15m 10 Continue climbing above the stance on easy rock to a convenient belay.

The climb takes the prominent rib which goes up the highest faces in the Magaliesberg. The rib lies about 200m to the right of Eureka Gully. 'Upthrust' goes up just to the left of the rib. 50m of grade 7 scrambling (as for 'Upthrust') leads to the foot of the rib.

1. 40m 13 Start about 7m to the right of the centre of the rib. Climb the face, which is steep at first for 10m then either continue diagonal left up the groove or traverse right to the corner and ascend it. Protection is scarce. Scramble up the grassy slope to the foot of the corner which runs up the right-hand side of the rib.

2. 43m 17 Climb up the ledges to the left of the corner for 10m then continue up the corner / chimney. Turning the small overhang in the corner / chimney at 25m is the crux. Continue up till it is possible to traverse 5m left to a small very exposed stance on the centre of the rib.

3. 43m 11 From the right side of the stance, climb up 5m then traverse left to the large ledge. Climb the chimney that leads from the back of the ledge to the top.

The climb starts about 150m right of 'Four Man Gully' in a prominent chimney.

1. 38m 17 Up in the chimney 25m to the overhang and continue up to a small stance.

2. 30m 15 Follow the chimney to a good stance on the right-hand side.

3. 30m 9 Continue to the top.

The start and most of the first pitch are the same as for 'Cremation'.

1. 40m 11 Start directly below the right side of the right-hand and lower of two massive overhangs. Ascend the prominent open scoop that leads up to the overhang. After 5m move left into a smaller open book and ascend this to the slab (18m). Traverse left across the slab for 22m to a grassy stance 6m from the left end of the slab.

2. 16m 13 Move 3m left to a small open book. Ascend this and continue directly up the face passing to left of a small spike (pinnacle). Finally ascend a short narrow steep chimney to a large ledge.

3. 40m 11 Traverse about 9m left to avoid the overhangs above to a small nose via one or two awkward moves. After a few good moves the climbing eases. Continue directly up to a large ledge (18m). Walk left down the ledge to belay at the foot of the prominent chimney.

4. 18m 13 Ascend the chimney overcoming the overhang by chimneying to a one man stance (peg) with very smooth slab to right and the overhanging corner above.

5. 8m 17 Traverse delicately across the slab to a small stance.

6. 40m 8 Climb up to a small yellow-wood tree and then climb to right of a gully. After another 30m of steep grassy scrambling the grade eases.

The main feature of the climb is the central groove in the top tier of the buttress. 10m below the centre of the buttress is a large tree and directly above this is a rib undercut by an overhang at 5m. To the left is a shallow scoop.

1. [15] 28m

   Ascend the shallow scoop for 6m then move up rightwards to gain the rib. Make an awkward move (peg runner in place) round the rib then rightwards up a shallow chimney. Step right onto a nose and up the wall above to a ledge and peg belay.

2. [9] 12m

   Scramble up left over vegetation to belay in a small corner below a steep crack.

3. [17] 28m

   Ascend the steep clean crack and traverse right at the top below a small overhang. Gain a small ledge and move diagonally up left to a stance and peg belay above a small patch of aloes.

4. [17] 28m

   Climb 4m up corner crack. Hand-traverse left to edge and continue to traverse crack and chimney, then up to obvious small stance.

5. [15] 22m

   Step left to the arete and climb this on good holds to the summit overhang. Traverse 8m left to a block under the roof, swing left on this then up a few meters to the top.

To the left of the 'Aftermath' buttress is a shorter buttress. About halfway along this buttress is an obvious corner. Start beneath the corner.

1. 30m 18 Climb the corner until suspect rock forces one to traverse right 5m. Climb the face to a good ledge.

2. 30m 13 Move diagonally right and up past some bushes to a ledge.

3. 40m 8 Climb non-descript rock to the top.