Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Limpopo Blouberg Near The Cave Avalon Area | |||||
28 | ★★★ AVALON
All the bolts on Avalon, except the top one which is still ok, were replaced in October 2005 with 10 mm stainless. It is fully bolted, but has no top anchors so take a friend 1.5, friend 2.5 and a few big wires and some slings for the top. It is easy to scramble off from the top of the route. The original route breaks left at the last bolt (26). Carry on up and right for the direct finish (28) FA: Michael Cartwright, 1990 | 15m, 6 | |||
Northwest Province Magaliesberg Eureka Dome & Skeerpoort Skeerpoort | |||||
28 | Unopened Project
Climbs the overhanging blocky wall opposite 'Pasta Noises' and "Trundle Time'. Holes for about 5 bolts drilled, but no bolts added. Will need additional trad gear. Set: M. Cartright & Stewart Middlemiss | ||||
Northwest Province Magaliesberg Tonquani-Cedarberg Complex Lower Tonquani Kloof | |||||
28 PROT:R | ★★ Geomancer
Takes a rising line on up the obvious leaning wall on the true right (east) side of the kloof, starting 20-30 m above the kloof base – access is best by an easy ab down the ramp of 'Cannon Fodder' ±50m downstream of the junction with Cedarberg kloof. An easy 15' stroll from Utopia. You can see 'Geomancer' from the top looking upstream from the top of the 'Cannon Fodder' slab. With a spare rope abseil off an obvious big tree on a flat ledge/block at the top of the 'Cannon Fodder' corner, down the slab to a perched belay about 10 m above a massive (meters across) chockstone. The climb starts off the slab beside a very white niche. Make hard moves to gain a corner. Move up the corner until you reach a point where there is a wicked slopey handrail just around the arete to left (place high gear in a corner before you go left) – reach the rail, cut loose and campus left then up with difficulty before you can step left to a jug rest. Face climb to a tricky hand-jam and bomber gear below the steep headwall. Continue up right and then slightly left up to before the ledges. Gets shade until 1-2'ish. FA: A. Pedley, 2020 | 30m | |||
28 | Christine
Climbs the row of 4 bolts about 3m right of the arête, heading for the break above. FA: Darryl Margetts, Martin Seegers & T. Mercer, 1992 | 4 | |||
Northwest Province Magaliesberg Tonquani-Cedarberg Complex Cedarberg Kloof | |||||
28 PROT:R | ★★★ Gom Jabbar
“I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain.” Bene Gesserit Litany Against Fear. Like the Dune quote this route is dramatic. It weaves through the steep bowl between the top pitches of 'Boggle' and 'Project 22' and finishes just right of 'Boggle' chains. There is no fixed gear and, for the hard bits, the gear is bomber. There are great views of it from 'Frog Gully' or the 'Boggle' abseil. Find your way to the tree on the sloping 'Cedarberg Traverse' ledge. This is halfway up the crag, about midway between Project 22 and Suicide. There are a few ways to get here: a) The easiest is to rap in from 'Boggle' chains, placing gear. The second then removes the gear and gets hauled into the stance. This is a good option to excavate wasps. b) Climb 'Cedarberg Traverse' . This is easy, but dirty and scrappy. c) Climb the first pitch of 'Boggle' and traverse right, beneath the big roof, passing the chains of the first pitch of 'Climbing In bed with Madonna'
FA: Hector Pringle, 21 Mar 2018 | 25m | |||
Northwest Province Magaliesberg GrootKloof | |||||
28 | ★★★ A Venture of Faith
On the left of THE POWERS THAT BE.
FA: T. Rogers, 1991 | 20m | |||
Northwest Province Magaliesberg Fernkloof Stormwatch Area | |||||
28 | ★★★ Faberge
A classic sustained route, a must do! FA: R. Nattras, 1990 | 7 | |||
Northwest Province Magaliesberg Narrow Kloof & Wigwam Narrow Kloof | |||||
28 | Opposing Force
Set: Alex Bester FA: Ebert Nel | ||||
28 | Resident Evil
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28 | Left For Dead | ||||
Northwest Province Magaliesberg Closed Hidden Kloof The Middle Sector | |||||
28 | ★★★ Rising Star
Amazing to think this one was hiding for so many years, just like Homo Naledi. It’s big and steep and will blow your mind and your forearms. Starts at the top of the ramp in the Middle Sector. Belay is easiest from the stream. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware. Set: Andrew Pedley & Andrew Pedley, 2015 FA: Andrew Pedley & Andrew Pedley, 2015 | 12 | |||
Northwest Province Chosspile Lord of The Rings | |||||
28 | The Chossfather
Set: Andrew Pedley, 2012 FA: Andrew Pedley, 2012 | 8 | |||
28 | Don't Let Go
Leftward extension of Don't Deck. Take long slings. FA: Brian Weaver, 2012 | ||||
Northwest Province Bobbejaan Krans Right Side Lower Sector | |||||
28 | ★ Baby's brains for breakfast
Crimpy cruxy. FA: Stephan Swanepoel | 6 | |||
Gauteng Johannesburg Strubens 2 Boulder Area | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | ★★ Sloppy Joes
FA: Guy Hubbard, 2004 | ||||
{FB} 6C+ | ★ Waxed
FA: James Roberts, 2004 | ||||
Gauteng Johannesburg The Keg | |||||
V6 | Prison Bitch
FA: Shaun Harris, 2002 | ||||
V6 | The Gimp
FA: Shaun Harris, 2002 | ||||
V6 | The End Of The Barrell
FA: James Roberts, 2002 | ||||
Gauteng Johannesburg The Wilds The Cave | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | ★★ Upper traverse - upper finish
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{FB} 6C+ | ★★ Razor
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Gauteng Bronkhorstspruit Crag | |||||
28 | The Flying Dutchman
Some fun roof climbing with interesting moves. Feels like a gym climb. Set: David Wade FA: David Wade, 2014 | 10 | |||
Gauteng King's Kloof Southern Boulders Flood Boulder | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | The Storm
Sit start on the left with a crimp and a side pull. Go directly up FA: Wesley Black, Oct 2022 | ||||
Gauteng Faerie Glen | |||||
FB:6C+ | Low Rider traverse
Stand start on the very left hand side of the crag.Without using the roof traverse well below it staying low.top out in the open book on the far end of the crag just before jonnie cash FA: Wesley Black | ||||
FB:6C+ | ★★ Johnnie Cash
To the far right, the last face before the path heads up again, between two small bushes / trees. Sit start on low crimp/rail for both hands (bad feet), move up to big side-pull and end with a big dyno to a slopy edge to the far right. May not use the obvious rail on top. Move to the right of the buldge on the top rail. FA: Heinrich Kahl | ||||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven The Mayhem Crags Burning Man Walls | |||||
28 | ★★★ Balde-Runner
The blade like curving arête gives sensational climbing. How classic? Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA. Set: Mountain Club of South Africa FA: Andrew Pedley | ||||
28 | ★★★ Lunatic Fringe
Up the middle of the wall. Starts with some cool moves up a mini arête then sustained technical stuff all the way to the chains. Bolts provided by Boven Fund/MCSA. Set: Mountain Club of South Africa FA: Andrew Pedley, Mar 2015 | ||||
28 | ★★★ Burning Man
Up the middle of the obvious stellar red wall. A bouldery start (don’t cheat by starting on the left), and pumpy mid-section, then a crazy rail right then back left to some trickery. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA. Set: Mountain Club of South Africa FA: Andrew Pedley, Mar 2015 | ||||
28 | ★★ Tompwe
Starts in the corner and heads up through the big roofs. Full set of spectacular moves makes for a magical finale. Set: Dewald Kloppers FA: Ebert Nel, 2018 | 9 | |||
28 | ★★★ Slaugterhouse 5
The beautiful technical red face (see photo) then wild moves through the roof. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA Set: Mountain Club of South Africa FA: Marc Efune, Aug 2015 | ||||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven The Mayhem Crags Corruption Crags | |||||
28 | ★★★ Stolen Goods
A good 160m from the narrow gully are the unmistakable compact 40m wide ‘grey slabs’, with very few holds on it. Stolen Goods takes the obvious weakness at its centre via some technical footwork and a leap of faith. Hardware provided by Boven Fund/MCSA. Set: Jahne Theron & Mountain Club of South Africa FA: Tristan van der Merwe, 21 Aug 2021 | 15m, 8 | |||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Tranquilitas Malaria Area | |||||
28 | ★★★ Eldorado
One of the best lines at the crag. A sustained and sequence of technical mastery takes you to the chains. Consensus is easy 28 (7c). Name written on the rock. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2004 | 11 | |||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Tranquilitas Rubiks Cube Boulder | |||||
28 | ★★ Rubik's Cube
26-28 Start on the two obvious crimps do two dynos and a couple of hard moves, nice route. Harder if you use less holds on the arête like the FA; opened at 28. FA: Dewald Kloppers, 2008 | 6 | |||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Tranquilitas Baboon Buttress | |||||
28 | ★ Blood Diamond
The shortest climb in the gully, on the right. Pre clip the first bolt by standing on the boulder (do not use this boulder during your ascent). 28 Start with your hands on the two good holds at the bottom and power your way to the top. FA: David Wade & Evan Margetts, 2012 | 5 | |||
28 | ★★★ Pygmy Party
Start as for 'Kannie-Ballistic' but head up straight through the roofs. FA: Mark Seuring, 2011 | 13 | |||
28 | ★★★ Condor
A few metres right of 'Heroes' is a right trending line. Hard for the short but 27 for those with a wingspan. Stays dry in heavy rain. Set: Andrew Pedley & Dylan Voigt FA: Dylan Voigt, 2010 | 11 | |||
28 | ★★★ The Bovenator
Starts by the black streak. A tricky compression start lead to lots and lots of fun. This is your chance to be The Bovenator. Stays dry in heavy rain. FA: 2010 | 11 | |||
28 | ★ Bovenatrix
Start on the blocky arête right of 'The Bovenator'. Up past some reachy cruxy stuff then with sustained interest up the face to the chains. Set: Mark Millar FA: Greg Borman, 2013 | ||||
28 | ★★★ Big Butterfly
Ground to top in one giant and stunning pitch. Moves right after chains. Use two ropes and drop one at half height ledge (up and right of half height chains). Can work crux headwall move on top rope with belayer at top. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2007 | ||||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Tranquilitas The God No Wall | |||||
28 | ★★ Freak Show
Start 2 m left of 'Freak On'. Climbs the wall just to right of the black water streak (always damp) via thin moves then busts through the roof with effort. Chains are below the huge roofs. FA: Andrew Pedley, 2008 | 12 | |||
28 | ★ Burning Spear
Start up the first 5 bolts of 'Big Bad Wolf' then head right up some good sequential climbing that gets harder as you get higher. A rest before the crux detracts from the climb. A 70m rope is required to get all the way down. FA: Marc Efune, 2009 | 17 | |||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Wonderland Area Hallucinogenic Wall | |||||
28 | ★★ Ants in Your Pants
Tackles the short prow with some poor holds! Bouldery and fun. FA: Mark Seuring, 1999 | 8 | |||
28 | ★★ Panty-Slapped
The arête behind the tree. Super technical on-balance moves, low in the grade. FA: Mark Seuring, 2002 | 8 | |||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Wonderland Area Reunion Wall | |||||
28 | ★ For Your Colorfication
he hard-looking face climb to the right of 'Cactus Palace'. FA: Jens Richter, 2005 | 8 | |||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Wonderland Area The Superbowl | |||||
28 | ★★★ Loslappie Link-Up
The line that should have been here first! Start up 'Welcome to Ovamboland' for 2-3 bolts then move left onto 'Karfoefeling'; then after clipping 2 bolts on the face above the last roof/overlap section, move back onto 'Welcome to Ovamboland' at the juggy break (rest) on the slabby part. Then load your forearms and blast up the incredible leaning headwall to the top of the crag! FA: Wesley Black, 2010 | 15 | |||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Wonderland Area The Theatre | |||||
28 | ★★ Mankini Blue
A crimpers delight! Climb first couple bolts of 'Bikini Red' then branch left and up the crimpy wall. Was opened at 26 but apparently its not. MCSA Bolts FA: Andrew Pedley, 2012 | 9 | |||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Triple Tier Crags The Gym | |||||
28 | ★★ Monks in the Gym
Mega power problem just right of the arête. Stick clip the first bolt. FA: Guy Holwill, 1993 | 4 | |||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Triple Tier Crags The Acid House | |||||
28 | ★★ German Cannibal
The obvious arête, probably very good. FA: Jens Richter | 11 | |||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven The Restaurant Crags The Restaurant Crag | |||||
28 | ★★ Eraserhead
Clip 'Blockbuster' first bolt, then continue straight up as 'Blockbuster' trends slightly right. Low in the grade. FA: Richard Lord, 1991 | 10 | |||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven The Island Never Never Land | |||||
28 | ★ Guy's Slab
The steep and thin orange slab at the top of the approach chasm, just right of 'Wizards' arête. Use 'Wizards' lower-offs. FA: Paul Every, 1993 | 7 | |||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven Sport Valley The Coven | |||||
28 | ★★★ Devil in a Cauldron
A fantastic line. Takes the right hand edge of the eye-catching face. FA: Gunther Migeotte, 1994 | 10 | |||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven The Waterfall Crags The A.C.R.A Wall | |||||
28 | ★★★ Unlimited Power
Starts from the chains on the left of the ledge. Power moves take you steeply left and up the headwall. Was opened at 27. FA: Grant Murray, 1991 | 10 | |||
Mpumalanga Waterval Boven The Waterfall Crags The Last Crag of the Century | |||||
28 | ★ Monkey Puzzle
Climb straight up from the third bolt of 'Fudge Beats Burfee' through a reachy roof section. Harder for short people. Tie a knot in the end of your rope! FA: Jens Richter, 2005 | 11 | |||
Mpumalanga Sabie Gorge Bouldering | |||||
{FR} FB:6C+ | FOG
Start on the pocket at waist height, bad foot grips, slap out left then top out on top of the boulder. ( Boulder nexto it is out ) A big armspan helps alot. FA: Johnny steenkamp, 2003 | ||||
Mpumalanga Kaap se Hoop Skin Doctor | |||||
FB:6C+/7A | Skin Doctor Arête
Sit start as above, but use the arête feature to top out. FA: D.Willis | ||||
Mpumalanga Kaap se Hoop Knees for Free | |||||
FB:6C/C+ | Knees for free
Stand start using pockets and crimps. Go up to the midway undercling/roof. T.O tending slightly right. FA: H.Cheney | ||||
Mpumalanga Kaap se Hoop Proximity | |||||
FB:6C+ | Proximity
Stand start under the overhanging arete, side pull L.H, crimp RH. Move up to a jug then ,use the arête to T.O over the lip. FA: H.Cheney | ||||
Mpumalanga Botshabelo Metropolis Flatty Boom Boom | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | ★ Sticking to U
Sit start on left of the boulder. Traverse over to the right and top out. FA: Albert Botha, 24 May 2023 | ||||
Mpumalanga Botshabelo Monolith Turtle | |||||
{FB} 6C+ | ★★★ Galápagos Islands
Start on big jug and climb left on awesome slopey crimps. FA: Evan Margetts | ||||
Mpumalanga Botshabelo Monolith Fire Boulder | |||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Questioning Balance
Start on holds just right of "hydras start" and climb up little crimps with perfect balance FA: Evan Margetts | ||||
Mpumalanga Botshabelo Graveyard area | |||||
FB:6C - 7B | ★★ Reach beech
Start to the right of Land claim. Start right hand on tiny undercling and left hand on flat undercling thats high. Do a big move up and right to jug.MORPHO FA Evan Margetts FA: Evan Margetts | ||||
Mpumalanga Botshabelo The Mines Parallel Blast | |||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Sapphire
Sit Start right hand on Crimp and left hand on pinch. Climb up. FA: Evan Margetts FA: 23 Oct 2022 | ||||
Mpumalanga Botshabelo Blockbuster sector Crank Boulder | |||||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Crank high voltage
sit start on jug, move to crimps and dyno to lip. FA: Evan Margetts | ||||
Mpumalanga Botshabelo Ridgeline boulders George of the jungle | |||||
FB:6C+ | ★★ George of the jungle
Sit start on obvious edge and climb up and right. WATCH OUT FOR THAT TREE! | ||||
Mpumalanga Gold Rush Nuggets | |||||
6C+ | Micro Corner
FFA: Neil Margetts, 2006 | ||||
Mpumalanga Gold Rush The Lost Valley | |||||
6C+ | Reach for the Stars
Sit start on jug/pockets just left of BW. Long move up left and then straight up on crimps to top out. FFA: Guy Hubbard, 2006 | ||||
Mpumalanga Gold Rush The Potholes | |||||
6C+ | Crack and Hookers
Start on obvious jug, move slightly right on crimps, then straight up high face to top out. FFA: Guy Hubbard, 2006 | ||||
Kwa-Zulu Natal Hilton Crags Closed Beacon Buttress | |||||
28 | ★★ The Blade Makers
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Kwa-Zulu Natal Hilton Crags Closed Serengeti Crag | |||||
28 | Project
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28 | Brothel Creeper
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Kwa-Zulu Natal King Solomon's Mine Meadow Boulders Boulder B | |||||
V5 FB:6C+ | The Principle
FA: J. Benson | ||||
Kwa-Zulu Natal King Solomon's Mine Meadow Boulders The Hangover Boulder | |||||
V5 | Roof Problem
FA: Dave Drummond | ||||
V5 | Josie
FA: J. Bentley | ||||
V5 | Hangover
FA: Scott Sinclair | ||||
Kwa-Zulu Natal King Solomon's Mine Meadow Boulders The Buffo Boulder | |||||
V3 - 6 | Insane in the Membrane
FA: Greg Streatfield | ||||
Kwa-Zulu Natal King Solomon's Mine Meadow Boulders Boulder F | |||||
V5 | Roadside Attac
FA: Greg Streatfield | ||||
V5 | Playtime
FA: Greg Streatfield | ||||
V5 | Lumpy Fat Rolls
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Kwa-Zulu Natal King Solomon's Mine Meadow Boulders Boulder G | |||||
V5 | Combo
FA: J. Benson & G. Jobson | ||||
Kwa-Zulu Natal King Solomon's Mine Meadow Boulders Boulder H | |||||
V5 | Slap and Tickle
FA: G. Jobson | ||||
Kwa-Zulu Natal King Solomon's Mine Sector B Boulders Boulder A | |||||
V5 | Rok Arête Sissy Variation
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Kwa-Zulu Natal King Solomon's Mine Sector B Boulders Boulder C | |||||
V5 | Overcast
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V5 | Nightingale
FA: J. Bentley | ||||
Kwa-Zulu Natal King Solomon's Mine Sector B Boulders The Point Road Boulder | |||||
V5 | Fueled on Schnoozes and Alcohol
FA: M. Haldorsen | ||||
V5 FB:6C+ | Sharon's Gas
FA: Greg Streatfield | ||||
Kwa-Zulu Natal King Solomon's Mine Sector B Boulders Boulder G | |||||
V5 | Jay's Problem
FA: J. Bentley | ||||
Kwa-Zulu Natal King Solomon's Mine Sector B Boulders Boulder H | |||||
V5 | Another Jay Problem
FA: J. Bentley | ||||
Kwa-Zulu Natal Krantzkloof Nature Reserve Rumdoodle Mainland : Ravine Area | |||||
28 | ★★★ Last Straw
FA: Damion McHendry, 1998 | 5 | |||
Kwa-Zulu Natal Krantzkloof Nature Reserve The Bone Yard | |||||
28 | ★★★ Going Gonzo with King Louis
Extention of Going Gonzo from its 6th bolt. FA: Roger Nattrass, 1992 | 7 | |||
Kwa-Zulu Natal Krantzkloof Nature Reserve The Canyon The "This and That" Wall | |||||
28 | ★★★ Pumperama
Start as for Vampire but climb follow the diagonal line of bolts leftward to finish at the top of the Beta Master. FA: Roger Nattrass, 1993 | 7 | |||
Kwa-Zulu Natal Krantzkloof Nature Reserve The Canyon Eroica Wall | |||||
28 | ★★★ Phantom of the Opera
FA: Roger Nattrass, 1990 | 7 | |||
Kwa-Zulu Natal Monteseel Western Buttress Near Western Buttress The Shadows Wall to Cryptotermes Buttress | |||||
28 | ★★ Satin Motion
The hardest route at Monteseel to date. Fully bolted. Abseil onto the big ledge halfway up Sunshine Chute where there is a two-bolt belay on the ledge. Long cranks on tiny, yet positive edges are the solution to this continuous problem. Have a good pair of edging shoes. FA: Roger Nattrass, 1991 | ||||
Kwa-Zulu Natal Shongweni Dam The Magnetic Wall The Headology Area | |||||
28 | ★★ Headology
Set: A Alcock FA: G Holwill, 1994 | 9 | |||
Kwa-Zulu Natal Shongweni Dam The Jesus Saves Wall The Main Wall | |||||
27/28 | Cruxi-fixion (direct)
Open Project Set: Warwick Hastie, 2020 | ||||
Kwa-Zulu Natal Shongweni Dam The Caves The Rasta Cave | |||||
28 | ★★★ Action Erect
FA: D McHendry | 7 | |||
Kwa-Zulu Natal Shongweni Dam The Caves The Wave Cave | |||||
28 | ★★★ Invertigo
FA: Kevin Tonkin, 1994 | 10 | |||
28 | ★★★ Cyclone Central
FA: Roger Nattrass, 1994 | 10 | |||
28 | ★★★ Gladiator
FA: Andy Alcock, 1994 | 9 | |||
28 | ★★★ Fat Freddie
FA: Ian Manson, 1995 | 10 | |||
Kwa-Zulu Natal Shongweni Dam The Goat Cave The Goat Cave | |||||
28 | The Gunbuster 5000
Set: James Barnes FA: James Barnes, Oct 2019 | 11 |