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Summary
Limestone
The cliff offers 40+ high-quality routes across various grades, comparable to Costa Blanca's best. The left side has slabby walls, while the central and right sides are steeper with sharper rocks.
Description
South
The cliff currently provides over 40 routes on excellent rock and offers many classic high quality routes throughout the grades, comparable with the best in the Costa Blanca region. Further new routes are being added all the time and this guide will be updated to reflect these. The cliff forms a bay with wings on either side. The continuation of the crag to the left leads to its sister crag Murla. Most of the developments are currently situated on the left and right sides of the central bay, although the middle section is now receiving more attention. The left side is typically slabby or vertical walls on perfect smooth pocketed limestone. The central and right sides are steeper with sharper rock – but again with many good pockets and tufas.
Approach
Travel north from Calpe along the N332 towards Benisa and take the turning to Jalon (Xalon). From Jalon take the by-pass to Alcalali. At the T-junction turn left and immediately take the right turning sign posted to Orba. The crag is 2 km further along just after leaving the village, above the sharp bend and is easily visible. There is sufficient parking for 2 or 3 cars on the bend off of the road (
38.755772, -0.051604) but other cars can be left in the drainage gutter at the side of the road.
Recently, a new parking spot opened just after leaving the village (38.754180, -0.050435). Walk up the paths from the corner to either the left or right to reach the base of the routes.
Ethic inherited from Comunidad Valenciana
- La piedra caliza es blanda - por favor, limpie sus gatos antes de escalar.
- Use su propio material para top-ropes.
- Cepille las vías y el magnesio al terminar la vía.
- Llévese su basura, colillas, y papel higiénico.
- Aparque con consideración y no bloquee pasos de tractores.
- Limestone is soft – please, clean your shoes off dirt before climbing.
- Use your own gear for top-rope set-ups.
- Brush the line and remove all tick marks and chalk excess.
- Pick up rubbish, cigarette butts, and your toilet paper.
- Park considerately and don't block essential laybys or farm access.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Roberto López
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9788409212781
A selective guidebook for Costa Blanca describing more than 3,400 sport routes in the provinces of Alicante and southern Valencia, stretching from Gandía in the north to Orihuela in the south.
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Author(s): Renaud Moulin & Jose Luis Palao
Date: 2019
A selective guidebook describing the best sport climbing areas around Alicante and Murcia in the Costa Blanca area, covering 20 main areas and 1,000's of routes.
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Author(s): Chris Craggs & Alan James
Date: 2013
ISBN: 9781873341674
A selective guidebook describing all the main rock climbing and sports climbing areas within the Costa Blanca region of Spain, covering 40 crags and over 3,000 routes.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Fri 2 Jun
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