Ascents in Val Bedretto - San Gottardo

What a opener. Some boulder moves on slopers to reach the first ledge. Easy 10m bring you to the heart of P1. A 10-15m mix of single and double crack. Jam and layback the hell out of it, it only gets easier almost at the end. Many bolts, so A0 is probably around 6a+.

AWESOME double crack with hand and fingerjams. Not too hard for the grade, but my lungs were pumping due to insufficient acclimatization. Extraordinary crack climbing in chamonix style.

Fun pitch. Climbs the huge flake and some downclimbing after swinging to the left.

Long, varied, exposed. Superb rock quality, and a little crux at the end with an overhanging flake/jam mix. Needed to rest a bit.

Climbed the 5c variant from G. Castioni and M. Pedrini (1981) which goes slightly to the right into a beautful dihedral which has to be gear protected (BD 0.5-1). Easy start with good footholds, the hardest part is protected by two bolts at the end of the dihedral. Wonderful pitch.

Easy terrain up and slightly to the left.

Last pitch to get to the top.

We did a variation to the right in a dihedral with a crack. The lower part is clean until the actual route is joined again about halfway through the pitch.

Ran out too much. Better place gear next time.