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Melting Wall Mostly Sport climbing 21 routes in cliff

21
FR
5c6a+6b+6c+7a+7b+7c+8a+8b+

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Ton Sai

No road access. From Ao Nang hire a longtail boat to take you around to Ton Sai. Boats only operate during the day.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
6c ★★ No Name Sport 25m, 7

FA: Sam Lightner Jr, Volker Schofft & Gerd Schofft, 1996

2
6b ★ The Northern Bird Sport 20m, 4

FA: Sam Lightner Jr. & Louise Whitehead, 2005

3
6a ★★ Grove of Vines Sport 20m, 4

FA: Hari Pongsopen & Ghop the RockShop, 2022

4
5c ★★ Broken Leg Bird Sport 20m, 4

FA: Hari Pongsopen & Ghop the RockShop, 2022

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5
6a ★★ Not need Name Sport 20m

only TopRope

FA: Hari, Haro Pongsopen & Ghop the RockShop, 2022

6
5c ★ Orange Shot Chimney Sport 16m, 4

FA: Hari Pongsopen, 2022

7
6a+ ★★ Orange Peel Sport 12m, 4

FA: Hari Pongsopen & Ghop the RockShop, 2022

8
7a+ S.O.S. Sport 50m, 2, 21
1 6c 30m
2 7a+ 20m

Shares the first pitch with 'Cockroach Beach'. Then veers left after the first anchor. Access either by traversing from below 'Cross Eyed', or by climbing straight up for 20m at about 6a level, A 60m rope is just enough to rappel from the first anchor. All titanium bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner, Volker Schoeffl & Gerd Schoeffl, 1996

9
6c ★★ Cockroach Beach Sport 50m, 2, 20
1 6c 30m
2 6b+ 20m

Shares the first pitch with 'S.O.S.'. Then straight up after the first anchor. Access either by traversing from below 'Cross Eyed', or by climbing straight up for 20m at about 6a level, A 60m rope is just enough to rappel from the first anchor. All titanium bolts.

Set: Sam Lightner, Volker Schoeffl & Gerd Schoeffl, 1996

10
7b ★★★ Cross Eyed Sport 28m, 13

Long endurance climb. All titanium bolts.

Set: Greg Collum & Chris Carr, 1996

11
7a+ ★★★ Affenhitze Sport 30m, 12

Just as long as 'Cross Eyed', though a bit easier. All titanium bolts.

Set: Michael Hoffmann & M. Huber, 1997

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12
7a ★★★ Climb of the Ancient Mariner Sport 28m, 11

Passes two anchors at 6a level, then climbs diagonally left up the overhang getting increasingly difficult. Crosses over 'Affenhitze'. Designed to be climbed in one pitch. All titanium bolts.

Set: Tom Cecil & Chris Carr, 1996

13
6a ★ Climb of the Ancient Mariner P1 Sport 13m, 5

Ends at the first anchor.

Set: Tom Cecil & Chris Carr, 1996

14
6a+ ★★★ Climb of the Ancient Mariner P2 Sport 18m, 7

Extends up behind the big stalactite for about 5m to the second anchor.

Set: Tom Cecil & Chris Carr, 1996

15
6b ★ Captain Hook Sport 15m, 5

Shares the anchor with 'Right Hand of Buddha'. 3 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Tom Cecil & Chris Carr, 1996

16
6b ★ Right Hand of Buddha Sport 15m, 5

Shares the anchor with 'Captain Hook'. 4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Greg Collum & Tom Cecil, 1996

17
6b ★ Melting Pot Sport 10m, 4

Second pitch of either 'Captain Hook' or 'Right Hand of Buddha'. 3 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: R. Bernard, I. Turnbull & Andy F., 1996

18
6b ★ Doing the Trad Trad 15m

Shares the anchor with 'Captain Hook' and 'Right Hand of Buddha' to allow toprope access.

Set: Jim Yoder & Mark Miner, 1996

19
8b+ Black Bird Sport
20
7a+ ★★ Bonsoir Sport 18m, 7

Easy climbing into the first overhang, reachy crux to get onto the arête. Another reachy move to get to the tufas. 4 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Sam Lightner & Greg Collum, 1996

21
6b+ ★★ The Smoking Room Sport 20m, 10

Climbs the tufa system on the very right side of the wall. Hard crux for the grade. 5 titanium bolts, 5 slings.

Set: Tom Cecil & Mark Miner, 1996

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6a ★ Climb of the Ancient Mariner P1
6a+ ★★★ Climb of the Ancient Mariner P2
6b ★ Captain Hook
6b+ ★★ The Smoking Room
7b ★★★ Cross Eyed

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波波 at Melting Wall - mmexport1602336993770.jpg

Lauren van der Mast on ★★★ Cross Eyed 7b

Lauren van der Mast on ★★★ Cross Eyed 7b

Puntarika Tunyavanich at Melting Wall - B752E65D-04D6-45EB-B814-58DCC7888E85.jpeg

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