Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Ton Sai Wall & Roof | |||||
7c+ | ★★★ Phet Maak
A real classic of the area. Originally graded 8a and still is if you go direct, nowadays most people head out right to the large tufa midway essentially avoiding the crux. All titanium bolts. Set: Max Dufford & Divinder Singh, 1992 | 15m, 7 | |||
8b | ★★ Cara Cangreso
All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Czech Open. Set: Carlos Bresco, 1997 | 15m, 9 | |||
8b+ | Czech Open
Start variation to the right of 'Cara Cangreso' and share anchor. Joins on the headwall. All titanium bolts. Set: Czech climbers, 1999 | 15m, 9 | |||
7c+ | ★★★ Gaeng Som Pla
Another Tonsai beach classic! Starts on the crack right of 'Czech Open'. All titanium bolts. Set: Max Dufford & Divinder Singh, 1992 | 15m, 8 | |||
7c+ | ★★★ Newen
| 5 | |||
8a+ | Hannes, the Beast
Starts 5m right of 'Gaeng Som Pla', straight through the steep grey roof into the structured rock below the anchor. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Ghop & The RockShop team, 2008 | 15m, 6 | |||
7c | ★★ Speak no Evil
Traverse following the crack and the ledge on the roof. All titanium bolts. Set: Bjoern Alber, Nantawan Alber & Robert Baier, 2010 | 15m, 6 | |||
8b+ | Kun Suk Khoo
Traverses left along the upper crack in the roof, right and above 'Speak no Evil'. All titanium bolts. Set: Ymer Alber, Bjoern Alber & Henrik Bolander, 2015 | 18m, 8 | |||
7b | ★★ First Blood
The furthest line to right behind the bushes. Traverses left along the edge of the roof. All titanium bolts. Set: Bjoern Alber & Henrik Bolander, Jan 2016 | 15m, 7 | |||
Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Iguana Park | |||||
6b | ★ Sex C Plus
| ||||
7c | Scary Skinny Iguana
| ||||
6c+ | ★★ Secret Jam
| ||||
6a | Left Break
| ||||
6a | Honeycomb Hole
| ||||
5 | Durian Thorn
| ||||
Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Dum's Kitchen | |||||
7c | ★★ Full Crimp Milk
Leftmost line, short and bouldery. Shares anchors with 'Wadumori'. All titanium bolts. | 11m, 4 | |||
8b | Wadumori
8a+/b in the guidebook. Shares anchors with 'Full Crimp Milk'. All titanium bolts. | 11m, 4 | |||
7c+ | ★★ Society of Gravitational Studies
All titanium bolts. Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1993 | 12m, 4 | |||
Mama Zu
The steep face right of 'Society of Gravitational Studies'. Stainless steel glue-in bolts. Set: Wee Changrua, 2009 | 15m, 5 | ||||
8a+ | ★★★ Arts & Sport
Shares the start with 'Wake & Bake', then left onto the face. All titanium bolts. Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1993 | 15m, 7 | |||
7a+ | ★★★ Wake & Bake
Climbs the obvious corner crack. Shares anchors with 'By Way of Deception'. All titanium bolts. Set: Cyro Glad, 1992 | 16m, 7 | |||
7a | ★ By Way of Deception
Starts right of the 'Wake & Bake' corner, shares the same anchor. Original start is hidden behind the shack. All titanium bolts. Set: Sam Lightner & Volker Schoeffl, 1993 | 16m, 6 | |||
6c | ★★ Jumping for Jugs
As the name suggests, jump for the jug to start. All titanium bolts. Set: Cyro Glad, 1993 | 15m, 6 | |||
7b | ★★ Nair Nawn
Shares the start with 'Jumping for Jugs', then right to the anchor of 'Fips, der Affe'. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Rolando Larcher, 1995 | 18m, 6 | |||
7a | ★★ Fips, der Affe
Shares the first meters into the corner with 'The Day After', then left over the bulge to a technical balancy finish. Shares the anchor with 'Nair Nawn'. 2 titanium bolts, 4 slings. Set: Michael Hoffmann, 1992 | 20m, 6 | |||
7b | ★★ The Day After
Shares the start with 'Fips, der Affe', then straight up, sharing anchors with 'No Onion, No Garlic'. 4 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 20m, 6 | |||
6c+ | ★ No Onion, No Garlic
Up the tufas, then left to a pumpy finish. Shares the last two clips and anchors with 'The Day After'. 4 titanium bolts, 4 slings. Set: Francisco Ataide & Dolan, 2005 | 20m, 8 | |||
6b+ | ★ Aunt Mary Johanna & Two Girls
Old bolts and slings, overgrown. Cannot be climbed anymore. Set: Nick Germang, 1993 | 28m, 7 | |||
6c | ★ No Name
Pumpy start through the overhang left of 'Schlingel Max'. Easier finish. 1 titanium bolt, 4 slings. Set: Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer, 1999 | 15m, 5 | |||
6b | ★★ Son thoi
Share start with Schlingel Max, then turn left to anchor of No Name. FA: Hanh Le | ||||
6b | ★ Schlingel Max
Interesting crux on polished rock. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Michael Hoffmann, 1992 | 15m, 6 | |||
7a | ★★ Don Quijote de la Mancha
Starts just left of 'Schlingel Moritz'. Technical start, easy middle section and a big move above the bulge. Don't cheat at the start by going too far right. All titanium bolts. Set: Ernesto Lopez & Pili Llatas, 1995 | 15m, 5 | |||
6a | ★ Schlingal Moritz
Hard start for the grade, especially when you're short. All titanium bolts. Set: Michael Hoffmann, 1992 | 15m, 6 | |||
6c | ★★ Good Medicine
One pockety tough crux towards the middle, then smooth sailing - top is a beautiful and much easier slab. All titanium bolts. Set: Bjoern Alber, Nantawan Alber & Robert Baier, 2006 | 23m, 7 | |||
7a+ | ★★ Reminiscence
A true Tonsai beach classic. Starts on the tufas right of 'Good Medicine'. Titanium bolts. Set: Sam Lightner & Todd Skinner, 1992 | 28m, 8 | |||
Maxi's Project
Squeezed in on the steep featureless rock between 'Reminiscence' and 'Mai Mee Fahn'. Set: Maxi Montree & Ghop, 2015 | 22m, 6 | ||||
7a+ | ★★ Mai Mee Fahn
Hard crux right at the start to get up to the tufas. Afterwards easier, but continuous. Reachy both at the start and towards the anchor. All titanium bolts. Set: Todd Skinner, 1993 | 15m, 5 | |||
8b+ | ★★ Avocado Power
All titanium bolts. Set: Samsungding Doloh, Ghop & The RockShop, 2010 FA: Samsungding Doloh, 2011 FFA: Steve Townsemd, 2013 | 22m, 9 | |||
6c+ | ★★★ The Lion King
Climbs around the prominent flake with insanely polished feet. Though the crux awaits right before the anchor. All titanium bolts. Set: Volker Schoeffl, Melanie Schoeffl & Sam Lightner, 1996 | 12m, 4 | |||
7b | ★★ The Tiger Queen
Easy start towards a crimpy crux. All titanium bolts. Set: Ola Brahammar, 2006 | 12m, 4 | |||
Thai Taam Nean
Project about 8b, though only bolted with expansion bolts. Set: Pha-Rhay Team, 2009 | 25m, 8 | ||||
6b+ | ★★ Storm in Head
Extension of 'Thai Tham Nean'. Also only expansion bolts. Set: Pha-Ray Team, 2009 | 15m, 5 | |||
8b | ★★★ Jai Dum
An amazing line linking a series of small flakes up the beautiful orange wall. All titanium bolts. Set: Sam Lightner, 1997 | 25m, 7 | |||
8b+ | ★★★ Of Popes and Power
All titanium bolts. Set: Alex Catlin, 1995 | 25m, 9 | |||
8c+ | ★★★ Greed
Currently the hardest ascent in Thailand. ‘It’s On’ from start to finish. Phenomenal climbing. All titanium bolts. Set: Alex Catlin, 1997 | 30m, 10 | |||
8c | Hot Springs
Broken hold, needs repairs and rebolting. Protected by expansion bolts. Set: Koran Pavel, 2002 | 30m, 10 | |||
8a+ | ★★★ Asia Shadow Play
Starts up the stairs towards 'Tyrolean Wall'. Shares the first few meters with 'The Sit Spins', then straight up. All titanium bolts. Set: Sam Lightner, Volker Schoeffl & Gerd Schoeffl, 1994 | 20m, 7 | |||
6b+ | ★★ The Sit Spins
Shares the start with 'Asia Shadow Play'. Traverses right, then up along the crack. Be careful, the crux just above the ledge is badly protected. All titanium bolts. Set: Sam Lightner, Gerd Schoeffl & Volker Schoeffl, 1995 | 20m, 8 | |||
7a | ★★ The Sit Spins (Direct Start)
Direct start to 'The Sit Spins'. Starts on 4 slings to cut off traversing, just on the very left of 'Tyrolean Wall'. Face climb on small holds with a big move to reach the ledge. Set: Ola Brahammar, 2013 | 20m, 9 | |||
8a | ★★ The Sit Spins (Extension)
1
7c+
15m
2
8a
10m
Extension of 'The Sit Spins' or 'Remix Direct'. Goes to the top of the wall. Great endurance climbing with an interesting finale. Stainless steel bolts. Set: Matthew Bouyoud, 2010 | 25m, 2, 11 | |||
Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Tyrolean Wall | |||||
7a | ★★ The Wrath of Nantawan
The leftmost line on 'Tyrolean Wall'. Don't confuse with 'Remix Direct', which starts on the very left of the wall, but is assigned to 'Dum's Kitchen'. All titanium bolts. Set: Bjoern Alber, Mon Alber & Robert Baier, 2008 | 22m, 10 | |||
6c | ★ Placebo
Endurance climb with a stiff crux over the bulge. All titanium bolts. Set: Bjoern Alber, Mon Alber & Robert Baier, 2008 | 19m, 8 | |||
6c+ | ★★ Loisl
Hard for the grade. Consider stick-clipping the first bolt. All titanium bolts. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 19m, 7 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Missing Snow
Great climbing, but very popular and polished. Bouldery move to easy climbing and ridiculous tubular jugs. Left and up, Choose your own adventure from here to anchors at the cave. All titanium bolts. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 20m, 8 | |||
7a | ★★ Schwer und Steil
Now bolted. Thin start, be careful. Crimps to the crux. Keep enough in the tank for the end. All titanium bolts. FA: Christian Neumeyer, 1997 Set: Alex Klenov, A. Celishev & V. Skripka, 2011 | 15m, 6 | |||
7b | ★★★ Pavel, Wish You Were Here
1
7a
15m
2
7b
30m
3
6b+
20m
4
6c
30m
First pitch is 'Schwer und Steil'. All pitches bolted with titanium bolts. Set: Alex Klenov, A. Celischev & V. Skripka, 2011 | 95m, 4, 35 | |||
6b+ | ★ Longes Feschtl
All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Kuahtittnseppl. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 18m, 6 | |||
6c+ | ★ Kuahtittnseppl
All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Longes Feschtl. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 18m, 8 | |||
7c+ | ★ Tricky Business
All titanium bolts. Set: Daniel Hentzschel, 2005 | 18m, 6 | |||
7c | ★★ K1
All titanium bolts. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 20m, 6 | |||
7c | ★★★ Tyrolean Air
Classic. All titanium bolts. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 20m, 7 | |||
8a | ★ The Zephyr
All titanium bolts. FA: Ola Brahammar, 2001 Set: Ola Brahammar & James Lombard, 2001 | 25m, 8 | |||
7b+ | ★★ No Have
All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Just Call Me Helmet. Set: Christian Neumeyer & Reinhold Scherer, 1997 | 23m, 9 | |||
8a | ★★ Just Call Me Helmet
All titanium bolts. Share anchor with No Have. Set: Scott Cosgrove, 1997 | 23m, 8 | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Blind, Deaf and Dumb
Shares the first clip with 'Just Call Me Helmet', then right. All titanium bolts. Set: James Lombard, Ill Amstutz & Steve Amstutz, 2003 | 30m, 12 | |||
7c | ★★ Affentanz
Starts about 30m further to the right along the trail. Shares three bolts with 'Lars & Lars', then left. 9 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Daniel Hentzschel, 2005 | 28m, 10 | |||
7a | ★★ Lars & Lars
Balancy and bold. Shares the start with 'Affentanz', then straight up. All titanium bolts. Set: Lars Jones & Lars Gilberg, 2004 | 25m, 9 | |||
7c | ★★ The White Crow
| 20m | |||
8b | Hammer Operation
| 20m | |||
6b | ★ Tyrosine
Horribly chipped route. High 2nd bolt. Starts next to a tree. Using the tree lowers the grade. | ||||
5c+ | ★ Cactus DE Tonsai
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Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Tiger Wall | |||||
7c+ | Mind over Matter
All titanium bolts. Set: Ola Brahammar, 2013 | 18m, 7 | |||
7c | ★★ The Rose
All titanium bolts. Set: Ola Brahammar, 2013 | 16m, 6 | |||
Open Project
Extension of 'The Rose', about 8b. Protected by slings. Set: Ola Brahammar, 2013 | 24m | ||||
8a | Finger Bang Bang
8 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Ola Brahammar, 2013 | 22m, 9 | |||
7b | ★★★ Face Plant
All titanium bolts. 1st pitch of 35 Stitches. Set: Jonas Wallin, 2012 | 20m, 9 | |||
8a | 35 Stitches
Two-bolt extension of 'Face Plant'. All titanium bolts. Set: Jonas Wallin, 2012 | 24m, 11 | |||
8a+ | ★★★ Year of the Tiger
1
7a+
30m
2
7c
40m
3
8a+
32m
A classic multi pitch. All pitches bolted with titanium glue-ins. Starts just right of 'Face Plant', then traverses right. All titanium bolts. Set: Sam Lightner, Scott Morley & Nancy Feagin, 1993 Set: Sam Lightner, Scott Morley & Nancy Feagin, 1993 | 100m, 3, 45 | |||
7b | Tear of the Liger
Starts a little bit further right around the vegetated part of the wall. 10 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Jonas Wallin, 2014 | 32m, 11 | |||
Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Eagle Wall Left Side | |||||
6a | Mai Rhu Sheu!
Around the corner, 30m left of 'Australian Invasion'. Loose rock, old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Set: Soley Onbhut, 2006 | 15m, 6 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Australian Invasion
6m left of 'Made in Spain'. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling. Set: Lee Cujes & Samantha Cujes, 2011 | 20m, 7 | |||
6b | ★★ Asian Invasion
Shares the first three bolts with 'Australian Invasion', then goes a bit to the right under the roof. | 2 | |||
6b | ★★ Made in Spain
Up a sharp slab, following the seam to the top. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Set: Laurent Sarthe & Rosa Alvarez, 1998 | 20m, 6 | |||
6a | ★★ Can you fix it?
Set: Rock and Sun, Dec 2022 FA: Rock and Sun, Dec 2022 | 18m, 7 | |||
6a | ★★ No it's broken
Set: Rock and Sun FA: Rock and Sun, Dec 2022 | 18m, 7 | |||
6a | ★★ Perfectly Imperfect
40m pitch - watch the end of your rope Set: Rock and Sun, Feb 2022 FA: Rock and Sun, Feb 2022 | 40m | |||
5c+ | ★ Dead Spanish Bolts
Climbs the obvious corner left of the belay ledge. All titanium bolts. Set: Shamick Byszewski, 1994 | 23m, 9 | |||
6a | ★★ Spiderman
The lefthand route on the small belay ledge, accessed by climbing up the fixed rope. 6 titanium bolts, 5 slings. With an 80m rope you can belay from below. You need 17 quickdraws. Set: Laurent Sarthe & Rosa Alvarez, 1998 | 32m, 17 | |||
6b | ★★ Desayuno de Nono
The middle line starting from the belay ledge. Titanium bolts and slings. Set: Laurent Sarthe & Rosa Alvarez, 1998 | 30m, 13 | |||
6a+ | Desayuno de Nono (Variation)
Finish variation to the right, 5m before the anchor. Set: Laurent Sarthe & Rosa Alvarez, 1998 | 30m, 9 | |||
6b+ | ★★ Alta Ruta
Righthand route on the belay ledge. 4 titanium bolts, 5 slings. Set: Laurent Sarthe & Rosa Alvarez, 1998 | 30m, 9 | |||
Krabi Phra-Nang Peninsula Ton Sai Eagle Wall Main Face | |||||
6b | ★★ Lost in Space
On the wall left of the 'Where Eagles Don't Dare' corner. 3 titanium bolts, 4 slings. Set: Wee Changrua, 1998 | 25m, 7 | |||
6a+ | ★★ Where Eagles Don't Dare
Beautiful through the obvious corner. Nice bridging moves and a rewarding view at the top. 7 titanium bolts, 2 slings. Set: Wee Changrua, Todd Offenbacher & Mark Miner, 1998 | 30m, 9 | |||
7b | ★★★ Flavour of the Week
Shares the slabby start with 'Where Eagles Don't Dare', then veers right onto the face. 6 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Set: Sam Lightner, 1999 | 28m, 9 | |||
7b | ★★ No Name
Start shared with 'Amazing Thailand', then left just before the arête. All titanium bolts. Set: Christian Neumeyer, 1999 | 28m, 9 | |||
7a | ★★★ Amazing Thailand
Straight up the overhang, then to technical moves, finishing up at easier grade on the arête. Polished but awesome. All titanium bolts. Set: Todd Offenbacher, 1998 | 25m, 10 | |||
7b+ | ★★ Sang Trip
All titanium bolts. Set: Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer, 1998 | 14m, 4 | |||
6c | ★ 5D Mak Mak
All titanium bolts. Set: Wee Changrua & Him Wang Sangha, 1998 | 15m, 5 | |||
7a+ | ★ Yaa Bhar
All titanium bolts. Share anchor with Mentally Deranged in Hiding. Set: Matthias Skafar, 1999 | 17m, 4 | |||
6c | ★ Mentally Deranged in Hiding
4 titanium bolts, 3 slings. Share anchor with Yaa Bhar. Set: Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer, 1998 | 17m, 7 |