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Summary
Limestone
Old limestone quarry with lots of sport routes as well as a number of trad routes. For a history of the crag, and updates on routes (bolts, etc.) see http://www.sportsclimbs.co.uk/mainpages/peak/Harpur%20Hill.htm
Description
Windy
One of the largest abandoned quarries in the peak district with two tiers of climbing offering over 300 routes in the low to mid sport climbing grade. Some surviving trad routes are also present if you like doing trad in crumbling quarries. The top level of the quarry requires scrambling and is usually quieter than the bottom tier.
All in all, this is a good place to tick some routes, but the quarry is also popular with the local youth and a dirt bike community, there is a lot of rubbish lying around and the whole place has a post-apocalyptic feeling with the poisoned lake and the rusted away car wrecks in the background.
There have been accidents in the past due to the crumbling nature of the rock. A helmet for both climbers is advised as well as good judgment when accessing routes prior to climbing them.
Access issues
Access is sensitive (as the BMC put it). The old quarry is on private property and there is no access agreement. The owner occasionally appears and asks people to leave, please do so promptly and courteously.
For up to date access info, see https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/ViewCrag.aspx?id=118
Approach
5-10 min
Parking is limited and fines have been issued for people parking inconsiderately. The best car park is at the top of Hill Lane (just before the gates of the industrial estate) where 3-4 cars can be parked considerately without blocking the road. From here follow the marked public bridleway towards the quarry, keep to the right, and hop the low-level fence at a convenient spot.
As usual, consult the BMC Rad site for the latest on parking. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/rad/view.aspx?id=118
Ethic inherited from Peak District Limestone
Being a national park, consult the local guide books and the regional access database for any closures. As usual, Nesting birds, and protected flora should be preserved. Some crags are on Private land, and therefore act reasonably if asked to leave.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Steve Broadbent
Date: 2022
ISBN: 9781913167110
A selective guidebook describing the best sport climbing areas in the northern half of England and Wales, covering 89 crags across Cumbria, Lancashire, North Yorkshire, the esoteric Filey sea cliffs, the Peak District, Cheshire, Clwyd limestone, the A55 and North Wales coast, and Llanberis slate.
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Author(s): Alan James & Chris Craggs
Date: 2020
ISBN: 9781873341582
A selective guidebook describing the best Trad rock climbing and sport climbing found on the limestone crags in the Peak District, covering over 3,000 routes at 30 crags.
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Author(s): Ian Carr & Gary Gibson
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9780903908399
A comprehensive guidebook describing the trad climbing, sport climbing and bouldering in the southern area of the Peak District, covering 50 crags including the classic areas of High Tor, Dovedale, Wirksworth, Matlock and the Manifold Valley.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Oscar Troitino on ★ I Predict a Roti 6a - 20230529_161506.jpg
Upper Tier - Stefania Favaro on Supernatural (6a), Prophecy sector
Upper Tier - Stefania Favaro on Supernatural (6a), Prophecy sector
Fri 2 Jun
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