Routes in Wye Valley for selected grade

5a,4c. Loose and vegetated.

4c,4c,5a.

Start as for Joe's Route but near first peg runner trend right and climb the arete/corner with little protection until able to pull over large block on left and stand up (bomber cam in the back). Climb to good peg then continue to in-situ belay.

Small Wall - An existing route with original peg and new tat. Climbs the right face of Tiswas (HS 4b) to the upper break, then finishes up that route. The route compliments the other three E grade routes at the crag, now it has been cleaned.

Start at the disjointed square-cut grooves. A good pitch with some committing moves to link the initial grooves.

Start at the pocketed wall 3 metres left of the end of the 'Easy Way Down'. Climb direct to the ledge, then follow the crack and groove. Trend slightly right to finish at a tree belay.

A small rockfall has left some loose rock low down. Start 1m left of the thin crack of Black Wall. Climb direct past some dubious rock to a thread just right of a sapling. Finish up the wall above in common with Black Wall.

Climb a small hidden groove 3 metres right of the large roofed groove, and move left on a ledge above the crack of Coda. Climb up on good holds slightly leftwards and then back right to stand above a bramble ledge. Now climb directly past a peg, the break a hollow sounding flake. Pull up above the bush to the last moves of bottle buttress to a tree belay.

1. 4c, 22m. Climb the surprisingly tricky corner to its end and a peg. Transfer to a slabby rib on the right and follow it to another peg below a steep wall. Pull up the wall right of the arete to a thin crack and runner and then reach good holds on a flat block up left before pulling up to less steep ground and a shattered hole. Move up right to a good ledge and belay.

2. 4b, 21m. Climb the arete on the left past a poor peg to a good ledge. Now move up and left along a ledge to a small corner. Climb the corner and blocks to arrive at large ledges and tree belays.

3. 4c, 10m. The line of thin cracks and tiny orange groove in the final headwall are thin to start but ease at mid-height.

A great natural line though it features two bolts and a lower off shared with 'Short of a Smile'.