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The Convent

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 1

Description

A rarely climbed mesa in Castle Valley.

Access issues

FRAGILE WHEN WET - don't climb after storms, holds will rip off.

CRYPTOBIOTIC SOIL - on the approach hikes avoid the dark crusty soil - it's a living organism.

Approach

From Moab drive 15.5m east on UT128 to Castle Valley Road and continue on UT128. After about another mile turn right on to a dirt road that heads-up Ida Gulch.

A photo of the turn-off is here: https://www.google.com/maps/@38.692204,-109.4109261,3a,75y,96.73h,90.42t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sEVzLfIsoEKc-jiwGRqwinw!2e0!7i13312!8i6656?hl=en

Where to stay

Moab, or campgrounds along the Colorado, or, camp by the car under the Convent.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Northern end of the Convent, on the west face. Accessing the base of the route requires some crawling along horizontal breaks, beginning at "Value of Audacity", and continuing under "West Face Dihedral".

  1. 170ft, 5.9

  2. 110ft, 5.11-

  3. 30ft, 5.10 (can be linked with P2 dependent on rope drag?)

  4. The Roof. 100ft, 5.10

  5. 50ft, 5.8

Descent: Rappel Choir Boyz

FA: Sam Boyce & Mark Bowling

Approach requires a crawl along a horizontal ledge from the base of "Value Of Audacity".

  1. 80ft, 5.9

  2. 110ft, 5.10-

  3. 110ft, 5.10

  4. 80ft, 5.10

  5. 60ft, 5.10

  6. 60ft, 5.7

Descent: Rappel Choir Boyz

FA: Earl Wiggins & Georhe Hurley, 1987

PG13. Start about 5m right of "West Face Dihedral". The start is just after the approach crawl from "Value of Audacity".

  1. 100ft, 5.10 C1

  2. 120ft, 5.10

  3. 70ft, 5.8

  4. 5.6R

  5. 80ft, 5.9

  6. 50ft, 5.10

  7. 30ft, 5.7

Descent: Rappel Choir Boyz

FA: Sam Boyce & Andrew Parnas

No fixed anchors on the route.

  1. 150ft, 5.11+

  2. 120ft, 5.11+

  3. 120ft, 5.8

Descent: Rappel Choir Boyz

FA: Earl Wiggins & Keith Reynolds

Starts about 13m right of "Value Of Audacity" and 30m left of "Choir Boyz".

  1. 40m, 5.12

  2. 35m, 5.11+

  3. 20m, 5.10.

Descent: Rappel "Choir Boyz".

FA: Carter Jensen & Scott McLeod

The right trending ramp system, beginning just left of "Choir Boyz".

  1. 130ft, 5.10

  2. 210ft, 5.10+

  3. 80ft, 5.8

  4. Continue up P5 of "Choir Boyz"

Descent: Rappel "Choir Boyz".

FA: Sam Boyce & Damian Vasquez, 20 Jul 2016

All anchors are bolted well.

  1. Crux, 5.12-

  2. 5.10+

  3. 5.11+

  4. 5.11C

  5. Easy.

Descent: Rappel the route.

FA: Andrew Wilder & Scott McLeod, 2009

Originally climbed as Aid and named "Renate Goes To Africa", but later freed and named "Renate Goes to Eleven" as a "a tip of the hat to Nigel Tufnel, who might say of the route 'Don't even look at it'".

  1. 60ft, 5.10b

  2. 50ft, 5.8

  3. 190ft, 5.7

  4. 80ft, 5.9

  5. 100ft, 5.10a

Descent: Rappel "Salvation Chimney" about 30m south, or, walk north to find the top of "Choir Boyz" and rap that.

FFA: David Goldstein & MacDonald

FA: Nebbe, Stockburger & Renate Stockburger, 1987

FA: Harvey T Carter & Steve Miller, 1965

FFA: Lou Dawson, Kendall Williams & Mike Pokress, 1975

Right facing dihedral in the southern third of the west face. Start is marked with a plaque and belay bolt.

  1. 30m, 5.11

  2. 30m, 5.10-

  3. 37m, 5.12

  4. 40m, 5.11

  5. 25m, 5.9

  6. 10m, 5.8

Descent: Walk north to find "Choir Boyz" and rappel that.

FA: Scott McLeod & Andrew Wilder

A clean crack system on the southern end of west face of the Convent.

FA: Jim Bodenhamer, Rob Slater, Bruce Hunter & Tom Cotter, 1992

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Karl Kelley

Date: 2022

ISBN: 978-1-954040-14-4

Sharp End Publishing:
Towers, crags, boulders—it's all in Moab, Utah. With Sharp End Publishing Moab Climbs: High on Moab, you can plan the perfect climbing trip.
  • Longtime Moab-local Karl Kelley draws from the town's climbing community and decades of experience climbing and developing routes on the world-class sandstone
  • Describes 1,000 of the very best climbs in Utah's picturesque red rock desert

Author(s): Stewart Green

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9781493039357

FalconGuides:
Ideal for climbers who want to hit as many routes as possible in a weekend or short visit, Best Climbs: Moab showcases a variety of can't-miss, world-class climbs out in the Moab desert.
  • Longtime desert climber Stewart Green provides visually appealing, to-the-point information to guide you to the very best routes in the desert surrounding Moab
  • Includes climbs from multi-pitch traditional-style gear routes on beautiful sandstone towers to stellar, moderate sport climbs at Wall Street

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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